JCummins87
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The hops package says c-type tgats all an its 1.25oz
Briess Porter extract has a mix of malts in it - base, Victory, Chocolate, Caramel 80, and Carapils. Pretty much what you would expect in a porter recipe (except for roasted barley, which I would have expected). So like Ogri said above, follow a recipe or database for the hopping schedule. Brewingwithbriess.com MIGHT have a recipe that uses that extract, but I don't see it. A porter recipe will have all the grains or extracts - assume that you already have that and just follow the hops. You have to scale them for the batch size, and that's where the calculators come in handy.It's not a pre hopped extract but I did purchase some hops to put in it. So I should bowl half the extract with 2 gallons of water and towards the end of the boil add the rest of the extract?
Did you enter 2.12 as the beer volume?MB directions call out for 2 1/2 tsb per 1 L bottle
There is 8 1 L bottles so that is 3.33oz of sugar.
If I go here http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html
they suggest I would only need around 2.5oz of sugar giver or take depending on the beer.
So why does MB say to add more sugar than if I brewed a non- MB batch?
Thanks
I bottled and put my bottles in the same room I used for fermenting. It runs about 60 to 65 is that too cool?
So... I'm a bit worried...
MRB says to keep it between 67 and 75 degrees.
The other night, I got home and it was 78 in the closet that I'm keeping the LBK.
I then resorted to a "Swamp Cooler" as recommended. I put it in my bathtub with some frozen 2 liter bottles with some water (not covering the whole LKB).
I just temp'd the water, and its 49... that seems WAY too cold for Ale yeast... am I ruining my beer?
Did you enter 2.12 as the beer volume?
I usually use 2.0 oz table sugar for a 2.5 gal batch. I believe 4 oz corn sugar is commonly what you get in a 5 gal kit and the difference between corn and table sugar is small.
Good work Stigy! Hope it tastes half as good as it looks!
I have a question, probably a stupid one so please forgive me for it. I don't use anything made just for brewing, my Fermenter is a 5 gallon bucket. lol my question is, after the co2 has stopped coming out of my bubbler, I can remove the lid, and throw a handful of sugar in, and the yeast go crazy. So, this tells me that they're out of food, not dead from the alcohol. If I add say 4 lbs. of sugar, wouldn't that give me a higher alcohol content beer? I know I would have to be careful, so I would still have enough yeast to get it to carbonate after I bottled it, and it would take more time to work into alcohol.
I usually measure by volume. 1/3 cup or a little more depending on the carb you want. (less than 1/2)I actually used 2.5 as the volume so changing that to 2.12 it actually makes the difference between the two more.
MB=2.5 tsp for (8)1L bottles = 3.3 oz
Tastybrew calculator:
2.12 gals @ 70deg ( just used the American Lager, light) I get 2.0 oz (for table sugar)
That is a big difference of priming sugar. I would think it would be close but this to me is a big difference.
How much should I use? I plan on make a sugar solution and racking MB onto it with my new fermenting bucket.
My LBK is at two weeks tonight. I plan to bottle next Thursday, but I want to taste it tonight, sorta help me wait, with a little sip...
Can I infect the beer by opening the spigot? How much does moving the keg around hurt things? Should I be S U P E R careful to not stir anything up?
My LBK is at two weeks tonight. I plan to bottle next Thursday, but I want to taste it tonight, sorta help me wait, with a little sip...
Can I infect the beer by opening the spigot? How much does moving the keg around hurt things? Should I be S U P E R careful to not stir anything up?
Just got finished bottling my first ever brew! Got 21 bottles of classic American light. It was the 18th day from brew day. My very last bottle was quite cloudy. Will this clear up during priming?
acidrain said:It will settle out during conditioning.
Priming was done when you added sugar before bottling.
It is a bit on the cool side and, although your beer will carbonate eventually, it'll take much, MUCH, longer than it would at 70*f. Even at 70*f you're, on the whole, looking at about three weeks before putting some beers in the fridge for a few days to chill a bit and absorb more of the CO2 into solution before opening and enjoying.
Just looked at first batch this morn 2 wks tomorrow. It looks like the spigot leaked. Beer in ice chest is about the same level as what's in the lbk. Should I go ahead and bottle what's left in there?
bpgreen said:I'd sanitize the spigot and bottle what's still in the LBK.
For future reference, it's a good idea to fill it with water and check for leaks before filling it with wort.
I'm gonna answer your questions in reverse.I have a question, I am VERY new to this I literally started a batch last night. So far so good but my question is that I have seen someone instead of adding sugar to the individual bottles he added sugar the the keg and then he bottled them. I was wondering if anyone have done this or recommends this. Also tips on sanitizing the equipment with out having to use the no rinse stuff the provide. I also did not get a booster.. Do I need that? Thanks
I have a question, I am VERY new to this I literally started a batch last night. So far so good but my question is that I have seen someone instead of adding sugar to the individual bottles he added sugar the the keg and then he bottled them. I was wondering if anyone have done this or recommends this. Also tips on sanitizing the equipment with out having to use the no rinse stuff the provide. I also did not get a booster.. Do I need that? Thanks
Ok cool, I was a little worried because I felt that some items were missing. Well since this is my fist batch ever I will just add the sugar to the individual bottles.. Now as for cleaning my keg and supplies after use, what do y'all recommend?
Another question, can we use the Mr Beer keg for other beers or other malts, that are not from Mr Beer?
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