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Hey guys and gals,

So I am new to homebrewing and my lady got me one of the MrBeer kits. It's currently fermenting a west coast pale ale. Since it was a little low on the ABV, I went to a local brew shop and he recommended some dry malt extract, kicking up to some 5.something. So I have a couple of questions.

1.How long should I actually let it ferment for, the WCPA? I started it on 6Dec2011 and figured 17Dec2011 would be a good time to bottle, then let sit for a week. Good?
2. I just got a Brew Ha Ha Bock in the mail. Now I have read about boiling the wort instead of just tossing it in. I know real beer brewing should boil for 45-60mins. So should I follow suit or just do as the instructions say? To boil or not to boil....

So I have been an avid beer follower for a few years and was excited that she got me this kit. I know it is an intro to homebrewing so I plan on getting a 5gal set up in a couple of months (to use the kit to make her happy). So anyway, yea, I just wanted to say cheers and I'll be following the forums now. Cheers!:mug:
 
Did you use the DME + the Booster that MrB included? If so, I would plan on a minimum of two weeks and closer to three if you don't have a hydrometer. If you DO, check gravity at 2 weeks and then a day or two later - if it's the same, it's done fermenting and ready to bottle.
If you don't know what a hydrometer is, go back to your LHBS and buy one. It will be the best <$10 brewing purchase you'll make. Very easy to use and invaluable.

As for boiling, you only do that if you're adding hops. There is no need to boil extracts unless you are adding hops.

Cheers.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, Keaila. Yes I did use both the DME and booster. I'll have to go pick up a hydrometer today. I'll actually be talking to my uncle this christmas eve and try to pick up his old beer brewing kit. He has all the stuff needed for 5 gallon batches. I'm still trying to figure out how to integrate this little 2 gallon MrBeer keg with real beer brewing. That will probably be some two months down the line though, as I have this Bock lined up after this current beer.
 
RTPalmer said:
So I am new to homebrewing and my lady got me one of the MrBeer kits. It's currently fermenting a west coast pale ale. Since it was a little low on the ABV, I went to a local brew shop and he recommended some dry malt extract, kicking up to some 5.something. So I have a couple of questions.
Click to expand...

Adding malt will make the beer more malty. Pale Ales are usually dry. If you used the booster as well, you probably made out just fine, but the beer is going to be strong! Don't drive after you drink it. ;)

1.How long should I actually let it ferment for, the WCPA? I started it on 6Dec2011 and figured 17Dec2011 would be a good time to bottle, then let sit for a week. Good?
Click to expand...

The right answer is: until it's done. The convenient answer is: two-three weeks. I assume you don't have a hydrometer, so you might not be able to find out when it is done, and you should just let it go for a while.

One week is probably not long enough to carbonate properly. Let it sit two weeks in a warm spot, then let one of them sit 48 hours in the fridge, and then open that one. If the carbonation is good, they are ready. If it overflows with bubbles, or if it is still flat, then you have to give it more time to carbonate. Three weeks for carbonation is a good rule-of-thumb.

Also, remember to do the "homebrew pour" and leave the last bit of beer in the bottle, so you don't drink the yeast. :)

2. I just got a Brew Ha Ha Bock in the mail. Now I have read about boiling the wort instead of just tossing it in. I know real beer brewing should boil for 45-60mins. So should I follow suit or just do as the instructions say? To boil or not to boil....
Click to expand...

If you are not adding hops to the brew, do like the instructions say for the boil. Boils are that long for two reasons: 1) to extract bitterness (IBUs) from the hops, and 2) to create side-product unfermentable sugars so that the beer is more sweet and malty than it would be otherwise. If you want to boil the extract for reason #2, then I agree, you can boil the extract for longer... even 90 or 120 minutes if you want.

So I have been an avid beer follower for a few years and was excited that she got me this kit. I know it is an intro to homebrewing so I plan on getting a 5gal set up in a couple of months (to use the kit to make her happy). So anyway, yea, I just wanted to say cheers and I'll be following the forums now. Cheers!:mug:
Click to expand...

Cheers! Don't give up or get down on yourself if your first batch doesn't turn out perfectly... just keep going. You'll get better and better as you read more and understand more. You really have to "do" before you can learn by reading, though, so keep practicing and don't be too perfectionist at the start. You'll have the hang of it in no time!
 
Awesome, Thanks for the responses Justibone. Also, thanks for putting my mind at ease with the idea of cutting the recipe in half to fit it into the MrBeer keg. I was thinking it but was a little worried. I'll let you guys know how this first batch turns out when it is complete! But i'll probably be a little excited and post before then, letting you know how the transfer to bottles go.
 
In case no one here has noticed, there is a 20% off site wide on the Mr Beer website. I believe it ends today, so get your purchases in! Just a heads up
 
I ordered a premium kit for my in-laws for Christmas from Target. With the paypal discount and free shipping the kit was a little cheaper than form Mr. Beer even with 20% off. I also got them a couple of the Octoberfest Vienna Lager Refill Packs for $4.78 each but had to pay shipping and tax. They were still under $10 each.

I'm making a little beer in mine I got at the Morman thrift store now, an Ordinary Bitter with about 2.5 pound of malt and less than an oz of hops. If my mother-in-law can make the kits I'll teach her small batch all grain. From my bulk supplies she will be able to make a batch for $4-$10.
 
Malticulous said:
I ordered a premium kit for my in-laws for Christmas from Target. With the paypal discount and free shipping the kit was a little cheaper than form Mr. Beer even with 20% off. I also got them a couple of the Octoberfest Vienna Lager Refill Packs for $4.78 each but had to pay shipping and tax. They were still under $10 each.

I'm making a little beer in mine I got at the Morman thrift store now, an Ordinary Bitter with about 2.5 pound of malt and less than an oz of hops. If my mother-in-law can make the kits I'll teach her small batch all grain. From my bulk supplies she will be able to make a batch for $4-$10.
Click to expand...

Do you mean the Deseret Industries? It's kind of ironic to find beer making equipment there.
 
PacoTX said:
Ok, so I'm still a complete noob. Quick question. I have 3 lbs of light DME and a can of Mr Beer Canadian Draught and a pack of Safale08. These are all leftovers and I just want to get them out of my inventory. I'm looking to make 5 gals
Can anyone provide some insight? Such as taste, ABV, etc? Should I add a little more hops? If so, which?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I made a 2 gallon batch with the High Country Canadian Draft (HCCD), 1lb of DME, 1 pack of booster, and 1 oz Cascade Hops. I added all the ingredients and boiled for 30 minutes. I added the hops at 15 minutes. I used a half pack S05 yeast and it went nuts! It has been 9 days now. I tasted a little when taking a hydrometer reading and it wasn't very hoppy. I'm thinking about dry hopping 1/2 oz or more of Citra hops for another 2 weeks.

I something similar a few months back. It was a Mr Beer recipe called Bengal Tiger IPA. I only used 1 oz of Cascade and it turned out great when it was ready. I'm hoping for something similar with the can of HCCD.
 
This might be a noob question, but I have two different cans of extract from mr beer. can i mix them to make one 5 gallon batch?
 
Yes, if you add something else. If you just use the two cans you only have enough malt for a 2.x gallon recipe (depending on how high you fill the little keg). If you are including the 2 Booster packs, then you are closer, though.

But even with that, the ideal volume is probably around 4.5 gallons. If you top off with water to get 5 gallons you're going to dilute it even more and end up with a weak, thin beer.
If you have 2 cans + 2 Booster packs I would suggest adding 1lb of either DME or LME to the recipe (and ideally some hops to offset that).

If you don't know what DME or LME is or why to add hops because of the additional malt you might want to stick with MrB for a few small batches to allow for a learning curve.

You mentioned it being a "noob question" so I *assume* you are new.
 
+1 Kealia

Your beer will be better if you use both cans in one MrB batch, generally.

You didn't mention which flavor the two cans are. Are they the same kind? If you want recipe advice, give us some more detail, or not... whatever you need.

This is *exactly* the place for "noob" questions. :mug:
 
I've been lurking for some time now and finally decided to register. I think its cool how helpful and non judgemental people are on this forum.

I wanted to ask something...if done correctly how do the Mr Beer beers compare to commercially available beers such as Bud, Coors, Miller, etc.. Better, worse, the same?

Thanks
 
I'll answer before you get answers like "why would you want to drink that stuff?"

You are going to make some EXCELLENT beer if you follow the advice here and/or on the MrB forums. In the end it really depends on what your taste buds like.

Can you make better beer than BMC? Hell yes.
 
Kealia said:
I'll answer before you get answers like "why would you want to drink that stuff?"

You are going to make some EXCELLENT beer if you follow the advice here and/or on the MrB forums. In the end it really depends on what your taste buds like.

Can you make better beer than BMC? Hell yes.
Click to expand...

+1

If you want to clone one of those, you'll find it very difficult for a number of reasons. It's actually more difficult to successfully brew a thinner, lower IBU beer and have it taste "right" than it is to brew a more complex beer. The reason is that the more complex the flavors, the easier it is to "hide" a smaller mistake.

Also, the "BMC" beers are all lagers and it takes a lot more effort to brew a lager than to brew an ale.

Here's my recipe for a "lagale" (my term for a lager like beer brewed with ale yeast) that is in the style of the light American lager.

1 can of HCCD or CGL
1 Booster pouch
500 g of maltose from an Asian food store (or 1 lb pilsen/extralight DME or 1.2 lb pilsen/extralight LME) or 1 can of Pale Export UME
1 full packet of Danstar Nottingham or Fermentis US-05



Ferment for 2 weeks as close to 60F as you can get.

I'm not saying this will be a clone, but it will be about as close to the style as you can get with ale yeast and mostly Mr Beer ingredients.
 
Hi All I've never brewed with a Mr. Beer kit before but I got a kit for Christmas I looked up the specs and the "Octoberfest Vienna Lager" busts out at 3.5% ABV I'd like to add more body and ABVs to the beer. I'm thinking of using it as a base for a pumpkin Ale boiling a lb of pumpkin puree add half a lb of brown sugar maybe some maple syrup and some pie spices . Generally from what I've seen Pumpkin beers hops are not exactly a main ingredient so I don't think the extra sugar should hurt the beer too much and I'd rather not wait for the HB supply store to open up. So what I'm asking is will the added Maple/Brown sugar ruin the batch?
 
Personally, I have 5 Mr. Beers, and I will often have several different batches going at once. I especially like their seasonal kits. With most of the kits, I use the mix as a base, and add all sorts of other ingredients. I also have a 5 gallon set up, but I mostly use Mr. Beer, since I like to have a wide variety of beers on hand.
 
broth223 said:
Hi All I've never brewed with a Mr. Beer kit before but I got a kit for Christmas I looked up the specs and the "Octoberfest Vienna Lager" busts out at 3.5% ABV I'd like to add more body and ABVs to the beer. I'm thinking of using it as a base for a pumpkin Ale boiling a lb of pumpkin puree add half a lb of brown sugar maybe some maple syrup and some pie spices . Generally from what I've seen Pumpkin beers hops are not exactly a main ingredient so I don't think the extra sugar should hurt the beer too much and I'd rather not wait for the HB supply store to open up. So what I'm asking is will the added Maple/Brown sugar ruin the batch?
Click to expand...

There's a general rule of thumb that you should try to keep the amount of alcohol from adjuncts to less than 1/3 of the total, with 2/3 or more coming from malt. The Booster is an adjunct, so with a standard refill, you're already above 1/3 from adjuncts. Adding syrup and/or brown syrup would further thin the beer and likely give it a cidery taste.

I think you'd be better off brewing the first batch as-is so you have a baseline. After that, if you want to add things, go for flavor rather than ABV (the ABV will likely follow, but my worst beers have been ones where I was chasing high alcohol content).

Adding more malt in the form of UME from Mr Beer or DME or LME from the LHBS will add body and flavor in addition to adding alcohol, so I think that's the way to go.

Once you're comfortable with the overall process, you can try adding steeping specialty grains and/or partial mashes. You can do all grain batches with the Mr Beer fermenter, as well (if you have the necessary equipment).
 
If you want more body, but don't want/have more malt to add, you can always make it to a smaller volume (1.5 gallons instead of 2, for example). If you do that, you lose more as a percentage when bottling though. :)
 
My first batch was the west coast pale ale. I wanted more alcohol, as a measly 3.7 seemed weak. So I added enough white sugar to bring the total to 6.0. Long story short, it tasted like bud light cut with apple juice or something.

I didn't care for it, but strangely, my SWMBO loves it. So, whenever she runs out of weird cider-beer I just buy the cheap MB kit and add a lot of sugar.
 
This is an epic read, like reading Shogun cover to cover. Since I failed to read any reviews when I took the plunge I cannot wait for my kit to arrive. I am an inherent tinkerer so no basic recipe will ever be safe once I get the basic mechanics down and can produce consistent batches. I will probably "graduate" to larger more complex equipment as I move toward brewing bliss, but for now Mr Beer will just have to be the training vehicle of choice. This was an impulse buy since it was way underpriced on Ebay so even if it is an epic fail, i am only in for about 40 bucks including shipping. Hope it turns out, but my interest level is up and my adventuris side piqued. So we will see how it goes from here.
Bob
 
Justibone said:
If you want more body, but don't want/have more malt to add, you can always make it to a smaller volume (1.5 gallons instead of 2, for example). If you do that, you lose more as a percentage when bottling though. :)
Click to expand...

What I do have is multiple HMEs. Vienna "Octoberfest", Cowboy american Lager, Canadian Draft, Whispering Wheat, and American Blonde. Would a combination of two of these taste right? (my initial thoughts were the Cowboy and the Canadian Draft both being lagers would be my best guess without knowing what malts and a very general idea of what hops are used.)
 
The whispering wheat, Cowboy lager and American Blonde are actually all, nearly, identical in colour (SRM) and bittering (IBU) so I suppose there's no reason why they shouldn't be doubled. The Oktoberfest would, ideally, be better off used with another Oktoberfest but if you mixed it with the Canadian draught I think you'd get a really nice coloured red ale with a decent balance of maltiness and bitterness.:mug:
 
They note the IBU when diluted to 2 gallons, so if you use two of the same you double the bitterness. Two of the pales would probably make a good pale ale and actually put it into the style. Two of the Vienna would be too bitter for the style but still might be good though. It will double the color and ABV too.
 
Was just given a Mr. Beer kit as a gift, look forward to beginning my first brew upon many more. See that I have a lot of reading to do before attempting my first brew
 
I don't want to be considered an advertiser, but...

Amazon emailed me about a site I never heard of before, and that they have Mr. Beer kits on special today. I guess it's called woot-dot-com. If someone wants a Mr. Beer or a spare, they could check it out.

I've never used the site, though, so I don't know anything other than that it is on sale today only or something.

Cheers! :mug:
 
I got the same advertisement from them through Amazon.com. I would think if Amazon supports it they are legit. I would use Pay Pal and see how they were it's only 25.00 so it isn't like it is a ton of money either way. Just my .02 FWIW, YMMV.
Bob
 
I'm now part of the club... wife surprised me with the Mr Beer kit for Christmas. I've wanted to start brewing for the last few years, but never made the jump.

Now, finally, my first batch is fermenting away! Very (very) excited to jump in and get started.

I've been flipping through Palmer's How to Brew for the last few years, and I've recently started pouring over the forums here.

Wife also purchased the American Devil IPA HME, so that is what I used for the first batch rather than the supplied ingredients. I plan on letting it set in primary for 14 days, then another 14 in the bottles. I also grabbed the iBrewmaster app for the iPad, and I will use that as a handy way of keeping my schedule clear. The program is probably a bit advanced for me when I am just using HME at this point, no?

I only just made my first batch (ever) last night, and I am already thinking about the next one...
 
I really hate bed bath and beyond but they have it on clearance for 14.99, you can order online and pay 5.99 to ship so you save $4, unless you can find it in stores.

Now the real question, I got a beer brewing set up from my husband this year for christmas, he suggested I get a Mr. Beer just to practice before I use all my new equipment. I have never brewed and am really excited to get started but is it worth it to use the Mr. Beer as a slow entry into the brewing world?
 
So, set a thermometer next to my primary - looks like it's been a bit cool, around 60F all morning but warming up to mid 60s now, and should hang there all day.

This is a bit cool, no? Would it be acceptable at this temp if I stretch from a 14 day ferment out to a 21 day?
 
Mid 60s is ideal. Less potential off flavors at the lower temps. Remember, the temp of the wort in the LBK will be a couple degrees higher than the ambient room temp. I typically let mine ferment 21 days. No issues there either.
 
I got bit by the Mr Beer bug. I got one for Christmas and got my first batch fermenting. I stop by Bed Bath and Beyond on my way home and picked up 2 more kegs. I think they will be enough to get a few brews going until I move up to a 5 gallon setup. :) I hope this batch turns out well. I am pretty excited :)
 
HooniverseJeff said:
So, set a thermometer next to my primary - looks like it's been a bit cool, around 60F all morning but warming up to mid 60s now, and should hang there all day.

This is a bit cool, no? Would it be acceptable at this temp if I stretch from a 14 day ferment out to a 21 day?
Click to expand...


If you used only the Mr. Beer yeast, that is in the lid of the cans, its ideal fermentation temps are listed as being from 68 to 76 Deg F so ambient temps of mid 60s, or slightly lower, should see you right. If you keep it down at the lower end for the first 4 or 5 days then bring the temp up a little so it's close to 70-72 for another couple of weeks you should get great results. If you can get hold of a brewometer/fermometer (stick on thermometer) to put on your keg and monitor temps from that it'll help to stay close to optimum range.

The American Devil IPA is a highly recommendable kit. Did one as my second batch, back in Mid September, and everyone that sampled some was really impressed (tweaked the recipe a bit by adding a half pack of booster to the two cans HME plus 500gr of Morgans enhancer {basically a Light Liquid Malt Extract}) Just finished my last bottle of it two nights ago and it was spot on.

Try to go three weeks in the fermenter, three weeks in the bottle at about 70 Deg F then chill in the fridge for at least a couple of days, definitely better if longer, and I guarantee you'll be blown away by your own beer.

eharmon said:
I have never brewed and am really excited to get started but is it worth it to use the Mr. Beer as a slow entry into the brewing world?
Click to expand...

I'd say it is. It is a little more expensive than buying larger cans of Hopped or Unhopped malt extracts, IE Coopers and/or hopping yourself but it's a great entry level product designed to make it easy to produce a decent, or even pretty damn good, beer.

Started in September, have three Mr. Beer fermenters, 2 X 6 gallon buckets and one 6.5 gallon bottling bucket and am on my 14th or 15 batch already, with 9 of my own different beers in the fridge:ban:


Welcome to your new addiction:rockin: Enjoy your beer:mug:
 

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