After a ton of research or over-research, I finally built a motorized grain mill. Here are my thoughts as well as my build.
Parts List
MM3-2.0 Mill with hopper and extension from Monster Mill
1hp 1725rpm 115/230VAC 56C frame motor from ebay (see picture below, any motor meeting these specs will do)
10:1 Gear Reducer 13-175-10-L-56C from Surplus Center
Mill coupler LoveJoy P/N L-095-.500
Reducer coupler LoveJoy L-095-.875
Spider that installs between LoveJoy couplers L095 series
Drum Switch 2 X 440 from Dayton
I used a MM3-2.0 mill. I chose this mill because I got tired of waiting on a chance to get the Rebel Mill so this was the most durable and best choice I found looking for something durable and for long term use. I also bought the base and hopper with extension. The mill has a 1/2inch shaft.
I used a 1hp motor with 1725 rpm 115/230VAC 56C frame. Monster Mill recommends a 1hp motor if youre using their MM3-2.0 mill. I wanted 115VAC motor so I can just plug it directly into any wall outlet. 1725rpm is important because it allowed me to use a 10:1 reduced which changed my motor output speed to 172.5 rpm. Good rpm speed for milling grain. The 56C frame was also important because the 10:1 reducer I used was also a 56C frame so they mounted up directly using 9/16 bolts.
10:1 reducer with input 1725 rpm and output of 175rpm torque 515in lbs, plenty of power to turn the mill. I fill the hopper before I start the mill and no problem starting the milling with a full hopper, very impressive.
To mate the shaft of the mill with the shaft of the reducer I used Lovejoy couplers. On the Mill shaft I used coupler p/n L-095-.500 and on the reducer shaft I used coupler p/n L-095-.875. On the inside of the coupler is a spider, L095 series, which mates between both couplers to absorb vibration.
To turn my mill on I used a Dayton 2X440 drum switch. This switch was rated at 1.5hp and 115vac. Its made for electric motor control and allows me to have both forward and reverse. I chose to wire my motor to have a reverse position because Ive read that sometimes the motor could get stuck on a hard grains and also because I could. J If I ever need to reverse the motor I have the ability. I included a wiring diagram below.
I added a chute, made from shower liner from home depot, that extends about 2in into my 5gal grain bucket as to reduce any grain splashing. Also used metal piping to cover my wiring making for a cleaner look. I put a few coats of laquer semi-gloss on the table as well.
Dayton 2x440A Wiring for forward and reverse
1 2
3 4
5 6
1 L2 (wht) & T2 (wht)
2 T4 (yel)
3 T5 (blk)
4 T8 (red)
5 T1 (blu)
6 L1 (blk) & T3 (orn)
Any questions just ask. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428527839.500830.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428527877.591158.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428527972.929312.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428528006.657988.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428528043.337187.jpg
Parts List
MM3-2.0 Mill with hopper and extension from Monster Mill
1hp 1725rpm 115/230VAC 56C frame motor from ebay (see picture below, any motor meeting these specs will do)
10:1 Gear Reducer 13-175-10-L-56C from Surplus Center
Mill coupler LoveJoy P/N L-095-.500
Reducer coupler LoveJoy L-095-.875
Spider that installs between LoveJoy couplers L095 series
Drum Switch 2 X 440 from Dayton
I used a MM3-2.0 mill. I chose this mill because I got tired of waiting on a chance to get the Rebel Mill so this was the most durable and best choice I found looking for something durable and for long term use. I also bought the base and hopper with extension. The mill has a 1/2inch shaft.
I used a 1hp motor with 1725 rpm 115/230VAC 56C frame. Monster Mill recommends a 1hp motor if youre using their MM3-2.0 mill. I wanted 115VAC motor so I can just plug it directly into any wall outlet. 1725rpm is important because it allowed me to use a 10:1 reduced which changed my motor output speed to 172.5 rpm. Good rpm speed for milling grain. The 56C frame was also important because the 10:1 reducer I used was also a 56C frame so they mounted up directly using 9/16 bolts.
10:1 reducer with input 1725 rpm and output of 175rpm torque 515in lbs, plenty of power to turn the mill. I fill the hopper before I start the mill and no problem starting the milling with a full hopper, very impressive.
To mate the shaft of the mill with the shaft of the reducer I used Lovejoy couplers. On the Mill shaft I used coupler p/n L-095-.500 and on the reducer shaft I used coupler p/n L-095-.875. On the inside of the coupler is a spider, L095 series, which mates between both couplers to absorb vibration.
To turn my mill on I used a Dayton 2X440 drum switch. This switch was rated at 1.5hp and 115vac. Its made for electric motor control and allows me to have both forward and reverse. I chose to wire my motor to have a reverse position because Ive read that sometimes the motor could get stuck on a hard grains and also because I could. J If I ever need to reverse the motor I have the ability. I included a wiring diagram below.
I added a chute, made from shower liner from home depot, that extends about 2in into my 5gal grain bucket as to reduce any grain splashing. Also used metal piping to cover my wiring making for a cleaner look. I put a few coats of laquer semi-gloss on the table as well.
Dayton 2x440A Wiring for forward and reverse
1 2
3 4
5 6
1 L2 (wht) & T2 (wht)
2 T4 (yel)
3 T5 (blk)
4 T8 (red)
5 T1 (blu)
6 L1 (blk) & T3 (orn)
Any questions just ask. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428527839.500830.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428527877.591158.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428527972.929312.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428528006.657988.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428528043.337187.jpg