Hang Glider
Beer Drinker
Slowsupratt: Output shaft is 7/8", mill shaft is 1/2" - you'll need a lovejoy to mate the two. (see the pic a few posts above yours, #476)
Motorized Grain Mills: Time to show them off!
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assume this motor may be underpowered but thought I would ask the motor gurus. I have a Monster M with 3 rollers.
and:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAChY/iCtpjmjrCqE/w1118-h839-no/motor2.jpg
and:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAChY/iCtpjmjrCqE/w1118-h839-no/motor2.jpg
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38 in-lb is at the bottom of what you'd like to have, but could still work. I'd be more worried about the 32 RPM. For a while I was playing with a gearmotor that was 90 in-lb and 30 RPM. It worked fine, but was really slow. Like a half hour or more for large batches or big beers.
FredTheNuke
Well-Known Member
the MM3-2.0 manufacturer recommends a 1 horsepower motor... I have an MM3-2.0 on a 1HP and it does require that much force to get it spinning with grain already in the hopper. Especially wheat.
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Motor horsepower alone is not important. It's torque at the roller shaft that will keep your mill from stalling. A lower horsepower motor geared to 30 RPM can provide the same torque as a higher HP rated motor geared to a higher speed. For most homebrewers 150-250 RPM at the mill is a good compromise between not shredding the husks and getting the job done in a reasonable amount of time. Anything below 40 in-lb of torque at the mill could be a problem, but that depends on roller diameter and width. I wouldn't go below 60 in-lb.
FredTheNuke
Well-Known Member
Very true. Numbers may be a bit high, though. A 1hp 1725rpm motor typically has 30 inch pounds of torque.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electrical-motors-hp-torque-rpm-d_1503.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electrical-motors-hp-torque-rpm-d_1503.html
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At the motor shaft, not at the mill.
bizarrojosh
Well-Known Member
Hi all,
I'm hoping that your expertise can help me make a human powered mill using a bike and bike parts. I need to get in shape and one way to do this is to use my own energy rather than electric energy. Anyway, I don't even know where to start but I assume that you awesome people can help point me in the right direction and give me some tips.
I did do a bit of googling and found a baker who has built something similar for when he mills his flour: pedal powered grain mill
Also, on this page the first picture shows an outline of how to connect a generator to a pedal. Obviously I would change the generator to my barley crusher
I currently have a barley crusher and as you can see his mill is a bit different.
I also found this company that does the same thing. If you look at the video in the first 2 minutes you can see a guy crushing grain into an ale pail
What would I need to get the mill hooked up to the rear wheel/bike chain of the bike so I can use the pedal to turn the mill? How would you build something like this?
Any advise, links, suggestions or help would be appreciated! Thanks!
I'm hoping that your expertise can help me make a human powered mill using a bike and bike parts. I need to get in shape and one way to do this is to use my own energy rather than electric energy. Anyway, I don't even know where to start but I assume that you awesome people can help point me in the right direction and give me some tips.
I did do a bit of googling and found a baker who has built something similar for when he mills his flour: pedal powered grain mill
Also, on this page the first picture shows an outline of how to connect a generator to a pedal. Obviously I would change the generator to my barley crusher
I currently have a barley crusher and as you can see his mill is a bit different.
I also found this company that does the same thing. If you look at the video in the first 2 minutes you can see a guy crushing grain into an ale pail
What would I need to get the mill hooked up to the rear wheel/bike chain of the bike so I can use the pedal to turn the mill? How would you build something like this?
Any advise, links, suggestions or help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Chops1867
Well-Known Member
You can't see the motor, but you get the idea!
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Huaco
Well-Known Member
Is the motor holding the camera?
Chops1867
Well-Known Member
Yes. My motor can multitask.
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marcb
Well-Known Member
My favorite color...... Stainless!
rabeb25
HE of who can not be spoken of.
I have this mounted to an older motor, that powered my barley crusher. This new motor is not cutting it, it will just stop during crush... any recommendations that would be a "drop in" replacement?
marcb
Well-Known Member
I have this mounted to an older motor, that powered my barley crusher. This new motor is not cutting it, it will just stop during crush... any recommendations that would be a "drop in" replacement?
Check on local CL and eBay for a gear motor. I prefer Dayton and stick to the final rpm range of 135-175. I've had great success with a 1/6hp Dayton gear motor for my crankandstein 3D that I got off of CL for $35.
Stealthcruiser
Well-Known Member
It's a gear-reduction motor, which is basically an electric motor with a gearbox attached. The motor itself runs at a much higher RPM than the shaft coming out of the reduction box so there's no need for pulleys to drop the RPM before connecting it to the mill.
Cheers,
--
Don
marcb
Well-Known Member
rabeb25
HE of who can not be spoken of.
No I saw it. I was talking about the reduction motor. You said you got your motor off craigslist. How much was the reduction?
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marcb
Well-Known Member
If you are direct drive as indicated on your picture you already have one, just not enough torque to drive the mill. The full specs of the CL Dayton motor are in my motorized super mill thread.
Found em:160 rpm.
Full specs:
AC Gearmotor, Parallel Shaft, Voltage Rating 115/230, 1 Phase, 60/50 Hz, Nameplate RPM 160, Full Load Torque (In.-Lbs.) 45, Overhung Load (Lb.) 196, Input HP 1/6, Gear Ratio 10:1, Full Load Amps 2.90/1.45, TEFC Enclosure, None Thermal Protection, All Position Mounting, Motor Type Permanent Split Capacitor
Grainger Item # 6MK80
Brand DAYTON
Mfr. Model # 6MK80
UNSPSC # 26101602
Ship Weight (lbs.) 25.55
Gearmotor, AC, 160 RPM
Stealthcruiser
Well-Known Member
It is a motor with a gearbox attached, just a motor designed for that type of gearbox attcahment, and sold as a "gearmotor".
In the specs, ( I believe, as I forgot to notice!), it will call out the "frame" type, which specifies what attachments, ( if any), can be attached directly to the motor.
You'll see all kinds of abbreviations as well, such as "TEFC", which stand for "totally enclosed, fan cooled", which is a plus in this application for not having concerns of the grain dust, (potentially explosive), entering the enclosure where electric arcing will be present.
FredTheNuke
Well-Known Member
TEFC is highly recommended. It should be considered required for grain milling to avoid death, explosions and other fun stuff like that.
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hafmpty
Well-Known Member
Here is mine. Took the simple route. Harbor Freight high torque, low RPM drill. I wired a switch and use a hose clamp to squeeze the trigger to just the right spot. Had the stand laying around for a while and just cut it down enough for a 10gal Rubbermaid trash an to fit under. Keeps the dust down. Works great and the mount is super sturdy. 
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trimixdiver1
Well-Known Member
My baby
Chia
Well-Known Member
i am in the middle of my build. is there an inexpensive quality motor out there? if so, what would you recommend?
Just completed this three roller Monster Mill w / LOTS of help from my brew buddies & craftsmen Dave & John- the gap is set at. .039 & the crush is perfect!
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the4gottenman
Active Member
I just ordered this setup and the output shaft on the gear reducer is not 5/8" like it says on the specifications or the dimensional drawing. It is bigger (about .708"/18mm diameter and the key is about .275"/7mm wide) so my 5/8" lovejoy coupling doesn't fit. Has anyone else had this problem? I tried calling customer service but it's not in their business hours and I have tried to find a lovejoy coupling that matches the output shaft on McMaster Carr but can't find one that matches the diameter and the key size.
EDIT: Well I feel a little silly. I just got a call about my problem and there is a plastic cover that goes over the output shaft that looks like the actual shaft. They says they get questions about it often. Hopefully this helps anyone else down the road.
drunkenmonk
Well-Known Member
That's pretty weird. I have the same gear reducer and didn't have any issues. You should be able to get Lovejoy coupler halves in almost any shaft diameter size from McMaster Carr. Another option would be to drill out the Lovejoy coupler parts you have to fit over the shaft.
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I purchased a Power Grinder motor w / gear reduction attached. See:http://www.allamericanaleworks.com/info.html
Less costly than separate parts plus I got a discount via eBay. I ordered my Lovejoy's from one of their local distributor. I did have to use a Dremel to trim the edges on the key to fit the Lovejoy keyway. Works great. You can see my setup in the post above.
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Less costly than separate parts plus I got a discount via eBay. I ordered my Lovejoy's from one of their local distributor. I did have to use a Dremel to trim the edges on the key to fit the Lovejoy keyway. Works great. You can see my setup in the post above.
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the4gottenman
Active Member
Customer service called me first thing this morning and helped me out. My observation skills must've been seriously lacking yesterday because I didn't notice the output shaft had a plastic cover on it.
HAHAHAHAHa! Don't worry, you are one of many who have done that..... my self included!
I did it to, it doesn't really look plastic until you take a pair of pliers to it and try to pull it off. They should really put a sticker on that thing that says "remove before use"
I messages Caleb stinger at like 11 pm like wtf??
I messages Caleb stinger at like 11 pm like wtf??
the4gottenman
Active Member
Now that that pesky output shaft cover is off it works like a charm.
^looks great! nice and clean.
can you take a pic of how you matched the gear reducer shaft up with the input on the mill?
I have a very similar setup and am looking to rebuild the stand again.
can you take a pic of how you matched the gear reducer shaft up with the input on the mill?
I have a very similar setup and am looking to rebuild the stand again.
Stealthcruiser
Well-Known Member
It's that orange lookin' thing in the pic there, known as a "Lovejoy coupling".
Edit: find them here, and they can be "mixed and matched" within a certain class of couplings.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#spider-couplings/=syu13j
^im familiar - that's how mine is hooked up.
I was referring to how you matched the height of the shafts - I should have clarified.
I was referring to how you matched the height of the shafts - I should have clarified.
I shimmed my motor with a thick washer at each bolt hole. Its not perfect, but its very close. And with how much actual run time these things get, it should still outlast me
