MLT brewpot question

[glorifiedbusdriver]

This may seen like a stupid question to some people, but how else am I gonna learn? I want to mash in my pollarware 10 gallon brewpot with direct heat. If I mash with the false bottom installed a mash/water ratio of 1:1 would make the mash pure dough since about a gallon and a half of water can fit under the false bottom. Should I use a use a ratio of 1:1 then add a gallon and a half compensating for the space under the false bottom? The alternative (which I have been using) is mash with out the false bottom, transfer to a bucket, install the false bottom, then transfer mash back into the brew pot. Needless to say this feels like I'm working to hard. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[FlyingHorse]

That should work. However, 1.5 gal is an awful lot of space below a false bottom (I think mine has maybe 1q of dead space?). Does all that liquid stay behind when you sparge, or do you have a dip tube to siphon it out?

If you're leaving all that behind, your efficiency will suffer...you might want to consider getting a different false bottom, or making a ss braid or copper manifold.

 

[glorifiedbusdriver]

1.5 gallons might be an exaggeration, it's probably more like a gallon. The thing that irritates me is that this is the false bottom that is sold with this brew pot. It is completely flat just above the spigot. I assume a conical false bottom would work much better. To answer your question I am tipping the brewpot on it's side to get all of the liquid under the spigot. My efficiency isn't that great (55%) but I am still new to AG and plan to use the 5.2 stabilizer next time to see if that helps.
I am also assuming that using the false bottom while mashing will help against scorching. I tend to stir alot but still seem to find that the bottom part is warmer than the top of the mash.

 

[johnoswald]

How about installing your filter in the plastic bucket (this would be one less transfer), and then filter back into your kettle?
I have a 10 gal brew pot where I do my direct heat mashing (no hot water additions and calculations), transfer to my 6 gal plastic filter bucket (SS braid/hose is the filter) and collect the wort back in the brew pot - which I start heating back up during the sparging.
this saves time and effort and propane

hope it helps

 

[johnoswald]

I tend to stir alot but still seem to find that the bottom part is warmer than the top of the mash.

Save your arm and prevent scorching at the same time by using a 3/4" variable speed drill and a sheetrock mud stirrer (Home Depot).
I suspend this over my brewpot (on the propane burner) by duct taping it to my 6' step ladder. I use a twisted wire around the trigger to maintain the speed (w/o splashing). This can mix the heaviest load and do it 100% of the time to prevent uneven heating or cool spots. I also dangle in my thermocouple wire from the ladder and easily monitor the real time temp.

Let me know if you want me to draw it out.

 

[Lil' Sparky]

Should I use a use a ratio of 1:1 then add a gallon and a half compensating for the space under the false bottom?

This is what I would do in your case. Just make sure to recirculate quite a bit when you begin your sparge so that you're not draining the dead space water right into your kettle. If you're fly sparging, I would try to rig a hose or something to try to drain from the middle to get a more even drain through the grain and better efficiency. If you're batch sparging, it shouldn't matter.

Moving the mash (and sparge water) from one container to another was one of the main reasons I went to a dedicated 3-tier brew stand. You wouldn't believe how much easier your brew day becomes.

 

[Taygel]

I'm pretty sure 1.5 gallons sounds right. I have a Polar ware 60 q Mash tun and 1 gallon doesn't even come close to the false bottom. I have to compensate for this with a little extra grains. I thought that a little loss in effeciency is a lot better then pulling my back out. Dont stress just add a little more water. I think the effeciency is balance due to the fact the polar wares are wider than taller, so when sparging you have a little more surface area. Also you can keep you mash at 170 f during the whole sparge by adding a little heat. This also helps in getting those sugars flowing. Anyways good luck

Cheers

 

[glorifiedbusdriver]

Johnoswald: I would be very interested in your mash stirrer. It sounds like it would be very cheap to put together since I already have a drill. Can you post a picture of it? Thanks.

Taygel: It's nice to hear about someone else who mash's in a polarware pot, I was beginning to think I was the only one. Using the false bottom, do you have a hard time keeping the same temperature through out the mash? What is your average efficiency?

Thanks guys.

 

[Taygel]

I just brewed yesterday and i did a two step mash. Protien rest and 122 and jumped it up to 152 for 60 minutes. I went from 152 to 148 in 60 minutes. Just about perfect. On colder days it does drop quick. I hit and 82% this time. i average about 78%. I think i did a good sparge nice and slow.

 

[johnoswald]

no pic possible until the next time I brew
most of my equipment is multipurpose (except the 6 gal filter bucket and wort cooling coil) so at the end of the day the whole set-up is dissembled.

I made a drawing but cannot attach it. email?

john