Dark Mild Mild Mannered Ale (AG) (E) UK/US

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use the one in the OP . . .
I have trouble following recipes. Not that I think I can do something any better, just like to tinker. Can't even brew one of my own recipes the same way twice.

But going to make an exception this time. I'd like to know how effective my process is and this is a great way to find out. Look forward to comparing results.

And beside that, I've been wanting to try brewing a low gravity mild and this looks like a great recipe!

Looks like there will be several Orfy's Milds in the HBT contest. There was mention of moving discussion of this mini-comp to a seperate thread. I haven't seen anything. Has it happened?
 
I have trouble following recipes. Not that I think I can do something any better, just like to tinker. Can't even brew one of my own recipes the same way twice.

yeah, I do the same...for some reason i just have a hard time using a recipe "as written"

i brewed this up as close as i could, but subbed goldings, cause i had a ton and didn't have any fuggles. aside from that, it's the same. i'm entering it in the HBC
 
Planning on brewing this next weekend for my 7th brew (still a beginner at this). I have a yeast question. I have a pack of the Nottingham Yeast, but I also have a smacked pack of Wyeast 1469 PC W Yorkshire Ale yeast in the fridge from a failed brewing session last week (thermometer broke in wort :( )

Here are the stats on the Wyeast:
Attenuation 67-71%
Alc. Tolerance 9%
Flocculation high
Temperature Range 64-72°F (18-22°C)

I'll probably be fermenting with a temp in the low to mid 60's.

I'd like to put the smacked pack to use, so I was thinking that I'd take it out of the fridge and make a starter to make sure it's still up to the task.

Does anyone think that this is a bad idea? Is this yeast a suitable alternative to the Nottingham?

I plan on brewing a 10g batch of dark mild just like this one on Sunday. Spliting into two batches to compare yeast profiles. I will be using the Wyeast 1469 and my buddy will use the Nottingham yeast. I think the West Yorkshire yeast will work great with this brew. The main difference between the two would be the attenuation. The Nottingham will attenuate 5-6% more. So if you use the 1469 I'd mash around 156F. I'd go 158F with the Nottingham. I also plan on washing the 1469 and using it for a Coffee Oatmeal Stout then an American-style Black Ale. Cheers!:tank:
 
Quick question:

No Fuggles to be had at LHBS.

If I'm in a pinch, which do you think would be a better sub in this recipe:

US Willamette @ 5.7AA
US Kent Goldings @ 5.5AA

Thanks!
 
Thanks, AnOldUR.
I went to a DIFFERENT LHBS and got some Fuggle Love. $1.50 an ounce! I'm sure I can find a use for 2 oz of KG in the future.
 
mine is stuck solidly at 1.014. anyone have this issue? I had an OG of 1.040 because I only put 5.5 gallons in the fermentor.

anyway, my ideas are:

I pitched a bit cold, right around 60F. I used rehydrated notty.

Primary fermentation was probably on the cool side (brand new carboy, need a temp strip for it). I'd guess between 60-64F, I just fermented a similar gravity beer and that is what that read. 2 days after pitching i did put my infrared heat lamp that brought it to upper 60's.

Dough in was a bit hot but it didn't take me long to get it down to 158F (I have a thermapen, and yes it's accurate)

I've cal'd my hyrometer and refract.

i guess i'm not complaining too much, as it tastes pretty good and has a good mouthfeel. I'm just wondering why I got such low attenuation....
 
Four days in, after fermenting at 64 deg, yeast has completely dropped to bottom of BB and krausen has fallen.

OG 1.036
Today - 1.015.

I just gently roused the yeast, and raised my fermentation freezer temp to 69 degrees

I suspect it has to do with the high mash temp. 158 (I actually hit 157) leaves a lot of unfermentable sugars.

I have to go out of town till monday, so we'll see then if I picked up a few more gravity points. If not, my mild will be an extra mild. ;)
 
You can drink it at week 3.

EDIT.

I just tapped one at 10 days.

Better at 3 weeks though.

Quick question from a new kegger...
When Orfy says "week 3," is this day 21, assuming day 1 is the first day of primary fermentation?

For those of you who make and keg this recipe, on what day do you pull from primary into the keg? How long in the keg before you drink?

I'm planning to carbonate with CO2 at 10PSI at 42 degrees with the set-it-and-forget-it method.
 
Earlier someone asked about switching out Maris Otter for mild malt. I'm interested to see what people think about this. How would mild malt work as the base grain for this beer? I can get both mild malt (Thomas Fawcett) and maris otter (crisp) from the LHBS.
 
I'm interested in trying out this recipe. I had one question, though... why is the boil time 60 minutes if the first hop addition is at 45 minutes?
 
If the boil time is 60 minutes this implies the total time of the boil is 60 minutes.

When your pot begins to boil you start the clock with 60 minutes to go. As the clock counts down this figure drops. After 5 minutes of boil you are at 55 minutes of remaining boil time. After 15 minutes you are at 45 minutes of remaining boil time. This is when you add the hops if the recipe calls for a 45 minute addition. Recipes always refer to the remaining time of the boil for the various hop additions.

This is true no matter what the total length of boil time may be. Wheather 60 or 90 minutes of total boil time, a hop addition at 45min means you add this ingredient when 45 minutes remain on the boil clock.

Cheers....
 
I'm interested in trying out this recipe. I had one question, though... why is the boil time 60 minutes if the first hop addition is at 45 minutes?

I think what you're asking is: why not make the boil 45 minutes?

With all grain, you have to drive off DMS, and that takes an hour of boiling. I think there are many other reasons to boil for a full hour. You add the hops at 45 because adding them at 60 would over-bitter the beer.

With extract, the DMS has already been driven off in the extraction process, so shorter boils are just fine. I have an extract wheat recipe that only boils for 30 minutes with a single hop addition at 30.

If you're doing extract, go ahead and make the boil 45 minutes. All grain or PM, go the full hour.
 
I think what you're asking is: why not make the boil 45 minutes?

With all grain, you have to drive off DMS, and that takes an hour of boiling. I think there are many other reasons to boil for a full hour. You add the hops at 45 because adding them at 60 would over-bitter the beer.

With extract, the DMS has already been driven off in the extraction process, so shorter boils are just fine. I have an extract wheat recipe that only boils for 30 minutes with a single hop addition at 30.

If you're doing extract, go ahead and make the boil 45 minutes. All grain or PM, go the full hour.

That was indeed the question I was trying to ask -- thanks for the answer. I've thus far only been doing extract/steeping recipes, but will soon be trying some PM recipes, and so this is good to know.
 
That was indeed the question I was trying to ask -- thanks for the answer. I've thus far only been doing extract/steeping recipes, but will soon be trying some PM recipes, and so this is good to know.

Don't forget with all grain you need to sparge more to get the most sugar out of the grains.
 
hey. just saw this recipe in popular mechanics online for top ten homebrew recipe's!
 
This recipe intregues me however I would like to sample the style before I brew some. What should I buy at the store that approximates this brew so I can sample?
 
The whole reason I brewed it is BECAUSE I can't find a commercial example. I'm only making small beers right now, and I want to make some that are full of flavor.

I just kegged my batch today after a 3 week primary.

As one reference point, I've heard mild described as a lighter brown porter.
 
The whole reason I brewed it is BECAUSE I can't find a commercial example. I'm only making small beers right now, and I want to make some that are full of flavor.

I just kegged my batch today after a 3 week primary.

As one reference point, I've heard mild described as a lighter brown porter.

Post your thoughts on it once it's carbed! I've never tried an English Mild either and I'd like to make some session-styles.
 
The Dark mild is a nice, malty beer. While its low in gravity, its not low on taste. I think a light porter is probably a decent way to describe it. Although I wouldn't say its low on flavor or body. Orfy's recipe leave a nice residual malt background and chocolate/caramel notes that please the crowd. Like everyone says, no need to change a thing, this beer is delicious! Thinking about brewing this yet again...
 
The Dark mild is a nice, malty beer. While its low in gravity, its not low on taste. I think a light porter is probably a decent way to describe it. Although I wouldn't say its low on flavor or body. Orfy's recipe leave a nice residual malt background and chocolate/caramel notes that please the crowd. Like everyone says, no need to change a thing, this beer is delicious! Thinking about brewing this yet again...

Thanks! I love my malty beers but 440cal pints are destroying my belly :p

I'll make this up soon.
 
Brewed this up (extract) about two weeks ago, cold crashing it now to keg and carb tonight. It definitely wasn't what I was expecting- on the FG sample, it had less body than the browns (Legend, especially) I've had, but very good (guess that's why they call it a mild...). A 'light' brown porter is a good way to describe it.

Now I just have to be patient and wait for it to be done force carbing...
 
It's been a long time since I've brewed a mild, but I am once again going to Orfy's recipe as the basis. This will be Mild Mannered 3.0.

Plan of attack:

Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.85 gal
Estimated OG: 1.038 SG
Estimated Color: 15.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 24.3 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.75 lb Pale Malt (Weyermann) (3.3 SRM) Grain 75.86 %
1.00 lb Crystal Dark - 77L (Crisp) (75.0 SRM) Grain 13.19 %
0.50 lb Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 6.60 %
0.33 lb Pale Chocolate (200.0 SRM) Grain 4.35 %
30.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [4.40 %] (60 min) Hops 19.0 IBU
32.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [4.40 %] (15 min) Hops 5.4 IBU
0.50 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
0.60 gm Calcium Chloride (Boil 60.0 min) Misc
1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1.10 gm Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
0.5 tbsp PH 5.2 Stabilizer (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs Bedford British Ale (White Labs #WLP006) [Yeast-Ale


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Full Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 7.58 lb
----------------------------
Single Infusion, Full Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 13.55 qt of water at 167.2 F 156.0 F


Notes:
------
Water designed to produce 50 ppm Ca in mash and Sulfate to Chloride ratio of 1:1 post-boil. Bedford British small 700 ml starter made from tube expired Nov 2010, stepped up to 1800 ml.

My thinking: Since I am using a German base, I am using the Victory to lend a little more toasty/biscuity character to the beer. C-77 mostly because the grain tastes delicious, and I've been wanting to brew with it for a long time. I prefer the more refined character of Goldings over the earthiness of Fuggles. Pale chocolate to minimize roast; I want this to be more like a light brown ale than a light brown porter. And finally, I had the expired Bedford British, and I wanted to try it in a Mild and an Ordinary Bitter to decide if I want to culture this (seasonal) yeast.
 
I feel the need for again thanking Orfy for starting me on the right path for this lovely style. This has truly become one of my signature beers. My Frozen Dawn isn't the original recipe, and I change something everytime, but the result is always a lovely pint, ready fast, and ever popular.

My latest batch uses a healthy dose of Challenger, which I am really liking, and is fermented with Yorkshire yeast.

Cheers!
 
I brewed this last weekend for big brew on the patio at Oak Creek Brewing in Sedona. They gave us hot liquor, grain and yeast.

I stayed overnight so I had to build an impromptu frementation chamber in the Hotel

image.jpg.scaled1000.jpg
 
My latest batch uses a healthy dose of Challenger, which I am really liking, and is fermented with Yorkshire yeast.
Hey I have that Yorkshire... it gave off cloves in my Bitter which I found just OK (I fermented it side by side w/ the London Ale, which was better).
How is the yeast with this grain bill? *could you describe it vs Notty?
 
Brewed this around two months ago. It's a decent beer alright and you can certainly kill a few. One thing I would say is that I reckon the 150g of Chocolate is a little excessive. It definitely dominates and lends the slightly bitter finish you get from the chocolate malt. I feel that it pushed out the caramel. I think somebody said earlier it's like a light porter and I think that's an accurate discription. If I was doing this one again I'd use a mix of medium and dark crystal with a touch of chocolate. I've always found a little chocolate goes a long way.

All in all though happy I brewed it and a tasty drop! Ironically it has taken until now to really come in to it's own. After 4 weeks it still tasted very young, at the moment it's drinking very well (not that there is much left)
 
Brewed this up (extract) about two weeks ago...

Can we get an update? How did it turn out for you?

Also, I've just read this entire thread and several people ask, but not one response to the question;

LME or DME? What did you use? The posted recipe just lists "Light Extract"

I'm heading to the LHBS soon to place my order...
 
I have two questions for all of you who brewed this beer:

1. What carbonation volume level do you shoot for?
2. What serving temperature do you find the beer best at?

TIA
 
Can we get an update? How did it turn out for you?

Also, I've just read this entire thread and several people ask, but not one response to the question;

LME or DME? What did you use? The posted recipe just lists "Light Extract"

I'm heading to the LHBS soon to place my order...

i can't speak from experience on this recipe, but i feel like you would get similar results either way. it would depend on which on you prefer working with. personaly i like LME. but DME stores better, so i think it just kinda depends on what you like
 
Since I didn't get an answer I went with LME. Maybe I'm showing my lack of experience and indeed you could use LME or DME interchangeably. :confused:

Anyway, I bottled 5 gals today after 11-1/2 days in the primary. I primed it with 3oz corn sugar. (...and I remembered to close the valve in the bottling bucket this time so I didn't spill heavily sugared beer all over the floor!)
OG:1.046, SG at bottling:1.014
Color looked good and it smelled good!
Can't wait to try my second batch of beer! :mug:
 
JasontheBeaver said:
Since I didn't get an answer I went with LME. Maybe I'm showing my lack of experience and indeed you could use LME or DME interchangeably. :confused:

OG:1.046, SG at bottling:1.014
:mug:

HOW much extract did you use?
[there are a thousand threads on here debating the difference between liquid & dry. but like another said in response to your question- it is personal preference.]

Whatever you used, it was a bit too much. Your OG is about tenpoints higher than the recipe. A mild is to be low in alcohol, so the OP's OG ranged between 1.034 -- 1.037.
It wont be precisely the beer as intended, but yeah it will be beer. Brew another!! and the next time i'd suggest that you use a program like beersmith or hopville. Make sure you match og, ibu & color for your proposed recipe as compared to what's posted.
 
I rounded 4.89 up to 5 lbs LME. This might explain my OG coming in higher. Only my second batch ever so I'm still learning.
Just purchased beersmith by the way. Thanks for the help! :mug:
 
Ok, just opened my first bottle of Orfy's Mild Mannered Brown Ale after ten days. It's not great at this early stage, but it's already better than my Oak Butt Brown debacle. Carbonation level is nice, I'm happy with the color and clarity and aroma. The taste is 'extracty'. Will give it another week and try it again for comparison.
 
just finished brewing this, waiting for it to cool. First AG batch, and i don't have a cooler yet, so it's sitting in a tub full of cold water.

When I keg this, to get 1.8 volumes, what PSI should i set my CO2 to? Beersmith seems to be suggesting around 5, but that seems quite low?

Thanks for the recipe, and response!
 
just finished brewing this, waiting for it to cool. First AG batch, and i don't have a cooler yet, so it's sitting in a tub full of cold water.

When I keg this, to get 1.8 volumes, what PSI should i set my CO2 to? Beersmith seems to be suggesting around 5, but that seems quite low?

Thanks for the recipe, and response!

it all depends on temp, what is your temp?

As wildwest450 would say "this carb table is nice"
 
Here's to Orfy!

Repeat customer here, brewed up 12ish gallons last night, didn't go perfectly, mashed a little low at 152 but for 90 mins, ended up at 1.040 so should get down pretty well. I ended up with 14ish gallons into the BK so I did a 90 minute boil but kept the additions at 45/15.

Last year I made 5 gallons and brought it to a Detroit Lions tailgate where it was a HUGE hit and went quickly. I love this beer and will make it every fall. A fantastic style, and a crowd pleaser no matter the crowd.
 
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