message to other beginners

[kylieWylie]

Hello. Yesterday was my first brew day and i wanted to tell other beginners the mistakes i now know i made. I hope it helps.
1. Overestimate needed water. I used spring water and i used one gallon for sanitation and five for the brew kit. Half a gallon evaporated in the cooking process. I only have 4 and a half gallons of beer in my fermenting unit.
2. Cool your wort all the way down to temp. I used ice water in the sink and two and a half gallons of spring water that was in the fridge and it was not enough to cool the wort fast enough.
3. Activate your yeast for a full fifteen minutes. I threw my yeast in water and threw it in hot wort. Sealed it and i will be a lucky dog if i get beer from this brew.
It is now a little over a day out and lucky for me my airlock is burping.
Again just trying to help. It is too much of an investment for these mistakes.

 

[Subdivisions]

Use plain old tap water for your cleaning and save the good water for the brew. No need to worry about microbes if you dilute some Star-San in the water and rinse your equipment with it.

 

[oogaboogachiefwalkingdeer]

I brew with tap water.

 

[McKnuckle]

One of the hardest things to do when beginning is to believe people who tell you that fermentation temperature matters, as in it REALLY matters. You're chilling your fresh off-the-boil wort, and it's taking a long time because you don't have an immersion chiller or other gadgets yet. So you watch the clock nervously, and it's 90... then 85... then 80... and you say "Oh what the hell, I'm gonna pitch that yeast NOW!"

That would be too soon.

Not even 75, or 70 is ideal. It'll be okay, but it won't be as good as going down to 65 and then pitching. The heat of fermentation activity will raise the temp to 68 from there. If you're hotter to begin with, the same laws apply, and the ferm temp will be too hot.

Congrats on the brew day and for sharing advice!

 

[Psylocide]

With regards to point 2: What is "not fast enough?" I have brewed with my Dad (brewing on my own now) many times and he would let it cool overnight before pitching, every time. I haven't had a bad beer of his... now, I know this is not ideal by any means, but what is "fast enough?"

With regards to point 3: I'm assuming you mean liquid yeast or smack packs? I pitch dry (again, as my Dad did) and have had great fermentations up until this point it would seem.

My biggest advice to newbs (and to myself, as a newb) would be not to over analyze and make brewing into this super-complex process. Get a few under your belt to get the basics down, then start tweaking your process. Again, I could take my own advice here.

 

[Sailingeric]

Hello. Yesterday was my first brew day and i wanted to tell other beginners the mistakes i now know i made. I hope it helps.
1. Overestimate needed water. I used spring water and i used one gallon for sanitation and five for the brew kit. Half a gallon evaporated in the cooking process. I only have 4 and a half gallons of beer in my fermenting unit.
2. Cool your wort all the way down to temp. I used ice water in the sink and two and a half gallons of spring water that was in the fridge and it was not enough to cool the wort fast enough.
3. Activate your yeast for a full fifteen minutes. I threw my yeast in water and threw it in hot wort. Sealed it and i will be a lucky dog if i get beer from this brew.
It is now a little over a day out and lucky for me my airlock is burping.
Again just trying to help. It is too much of an investment for these mistakes.

I have been using a Britta water filter jug and has worked well for me. Use that to top off the boiloff.

 

[stevehardt]

My advice to newbs is to learn patience. Simple message, but very hard to do. Best ingredient for quality homebrew is time. Let the yeast work

 

[Calder]

I use tap water for the boil, and also for top-off. Straight out of the tap.

Don't get too crazy about sanitation. If it is clean, and you have a decent yeast pitch, chances are there will be no problem ....... but occasionally you can get some spoiling agent.

Use dry yeast until you are ready to make starters.

Temp is important. If you can't cool well enough, freeze some of the water. Add the ice to finish cooling, after you have pulled the temp well down.

 

[OleGoatBrewing]

You'll be fine. The "hardest" thing when it comes to brewing beer is consistently recreating a single recipe over and over again. Thats when temps, water and process all need to be really scrutinized and followed. If you're just makin' beer these variables can be overcome. In 99% of the cases it will be good beer.

The only thing is you ended up short 1/2 gallon. I would top up with some of that high dollar water you had, but I've used tap water in the past with much success. Welcome to a very addicting hobby!

 

[aryoung1980]

I have been using a Britta water filter jug and has worked well for me.

+1

I'll buy distilled water when I brew my Bo Pils to soften my tap water. Other than that, the Britta water makes great beer.

 

[McKnuckle]

There is no such thing as "Brita water"... Brita is a charcoal filter that you pass your own, unique, tap water through. It doesn't have any effect on the primary brewing elements/compounds of Ca, Mg, Na, Cl, SO4, and HCO3. Also, one can't say that "tap water" works well for brewing, because every water supply is unique. Some are fine for brewing, some are terrible.

From the Brita website:"The Brita® Pitcher Filter Systems and the Brita® Faucet Filter are both excellent water filtration products offering different filtering techniques. The best product is the one that most meets your individual needs. Both products reduce the contaminants that most commonly concern consumers — lead and chlorine (taste and odor) — and both products deliver great-tasting Brita® water. The Brita® Pitcher Systems also reduce copper and mercury — which the Brita® Faucet Filter can't do. But unlike the pitcher, the Faucet Filter removes the microbes, Cryptosporidium and Giardia, and reduces the chemicals Atrazine, Lindane, Benzene, Trichloroethylene and Asbestos."

Sorry for the nitpick...

 

[william_shakes_beer]

I have been brewing with my tap water all along and never had a problem. Could I get better beer by ammending and/or using bottled water? perhaps. The good thing about brewing as a hobby is you can obsess about as many or as few details as you choose. I have an immersion chiller but rarely use it. I drop the wort into the fermetner at 100F, pop it in the ferm chamber chest freezer and pitch when its down to temp. Often the next day.

 

[m00ps]

Great points

Biggest advice I have for new brewers is to make sure you keep an eye on fermentation temps, but resist the urge to constantly f&&k with your beer. Don;t pop the lid to see how it looks the next day. Be patient and wait till airlock activity has ceased for a few days before taking your first sample

 

[chezhed]

There is no such thing as "Brita water"... Brita is a charcoal filter that you pass your own, unique, tap water through. It doesn't have any effect on the primary brewing elements/compounds of Ca, Mg, Na, Cl, SO4, and HCO3. Also, one can't say that "tap water" works well for brewing, because every water supply is unique. Some are fine for brewing, some are terrible.

Sorry for the nitpick...

Get your tap water tested fer cryin' out loud....
Beer is what, 90%+ water and you don't know what you have? To me this is one of the most important thing that new brewers miss. I have lived in three places with varying water profiles and have brewed the same recipe at all three and believe me, they all taste different and the only variable was the water and their age. All three had the same OG and FG within .005. I attribute some taste variability to the age but it's more in the depth of character of the brew and aftertaste than the initial taste.....and that first impression is the one you know....

 

[kh54s10]

The thing that gets me with new brewers, is they get a kit and don't even follow those lousy instructions. "I got my wort down to 95 degrees but it took 25 minutes so I pitched the yeast" Or, "I rehydrated my yeast in 150 degree water. Did I kill my yeast?"

What is even worse is: "I have done 5 kits and they were all bad. I fermented them all at 75 -85 degrees. What am I doing wrong?" Ask that question after the 1st bad batch, maybe the second but to wait until you have made 5 bad beers then ask?!?!?

I myself am included: My first batch started fermentation at 75+ until I re-read the instructions and saw the temperature range. But, I found the problem early, then researched. I found HBT within a week of my first brew and have saved myself from going through any "bad beer" stage. BTW, that beer, a Northern Brewer Irish Red Ale kit turned out pretty good. I don't know how much the high temperatures changed it. I would imagine it would have been quite a bit better had I known.

 

[kh54s10]

Get your tap water tested fer cryin' out loud....
Beer is what, 90%+ water and you don't know what you have? To me this is one of the most important thing that new brewers miss. I have lived in three places with varying water profiles and have brewed the same recipe at all three and believe me, they all taste different and the only variable was the water and their age. All three had the same OG and FG within .005. I attribute some taste variability to the age but it's more in the depth of character of the brew and aftertaste than the initial taste.....and that first impression is the one you know....

This is very good advise if you have water that does not always taste good.

But, my town has very good water. I have been brewing for 3 1/2 years now, filtered with a Brita faucet filter and now a charcoal inline filter. My beers are always very good and my friends rave about them, continually asking for more. I will someday get it tested so I can try to make my "very good" beers even better. But I don't have a problem so there is no rush, in my case, to get my water tested.

Also, if the water is acceptable, it is better to learn the basic processes before getting into water profile alterations, which can be quite complicated.

 

[kylieWylie]

this was a red ale kit from brewers best. it is sitting at 68 F. right now. Thanks for all your advice guys.

 

[kylieWylie]

On an additional note. I used an electric glass top stove. Pretty risky to lift and move. the bottom of the kettle bangs on the glass. Looking to pick up a seafood cooker asap.

 

[rmyurick]

The best thing about mistakes is that you learn from them!

Last time I pitched too hot, I put the carboy in a large-ish tub with cold water & some ice cubes 'til it cooled down. Beer turned out great.

On water- probably the worst thing about tap water is the free chlorine or chloramines. You can remove the former by boiling, and the latter by adding campden tablets & letting it sit.

 

[sfish]

Did you take a OG reading of your 4.5 gal? Depending on your reading I would top off to a heavy 5 gallons. I like to bottle 50 or so bottles so there is 2 full cases to sit and then I can drink 2 or 3 beers early.

 

[Brew_G]

This is very good advise if you have water that does not always taste good.

But, my town has very good water. I have been brewing for 3 1/2 years now, filtered with a Brita faucet filter and now a charcoal inline filter. My beers are always very good and my friends rave about them, continually asking for more. I will someday get it tested so I can try to make my "very good" beers even better. But I don't have a problem so there is no rush, in my case, to get my water tested.

Also, if the water is acceptable, it is better to learn the basic processes before getting into water profile alterations, which can be quite complicated.

I like to think I have a fairly scientific mind and can comprehend water chemistry and the like, but this is good advice.

As a beginner, I'm not even worrying about water profile right now. All I do is add a campden tablet to my tap water and off I go. I'm just focused on getting my BIAB process down and being able to replicate it batch after batch. Hopefully when all is said and done I consistently end up with good beer. Once I get that figured out, I *might* want to delve more deeply into water chemistry to see how that affects my final product. But for now...keep it simple, stupid!

 

[kylieWylie]

I have not used the hydrometer yet. It is 48 hours into the ferment, I just want to leave it be now. Not top it off i mean.

 

[sfish]

I have not used the hydrometer yet. It is 48 hours into the ferment, I just want to leave it be now. Not top it off i mean.

you should add:

4) Remember to take OG reading before pitching yeast.

 

[chezhed]

I like to think I have a fairly scientific mind and can comprehend water chemistry and the like, but this is good advice.

As a beginner, I'm not even worrying about water profile right now. All I do is add a campden tablet to my tap water and off I go. I'm just focused on getting my BIAB process down and being able to replicate it batch after batch. Hopefully when all is said and done I consistently end up with good beer. Once I get that figured out, I *might* want to delve more deeply into water chemistry to see how that affects my final product. But for now...keep it simple, stupid!

I didn't advocate messing with the water chemistry...I simply said find out what you have. What "tastes" good to you is then known.
And municipal water supplies change their treatment processes so your chemistry may change from time to time. I have personally seen this change in my own submitted samples from year to year.

 

[Brew_G]

I didn't advocate messing with the water chemistry...I simply said find out what you have. What "tastes" good to you is then known.
And municipal water supplies change their treatment processes so your chemistry may change from time to time. I have personally seen this change in my own submitted samples from year to year.

No worries - it's all good. I completely understand.

My county's water authority puts out a yearly water report that details chemistry month-by-month. It's interesting to see the changes, and I hope it doesn't mean I have a good beer one month and a sucky beer the next! :cross:

 

[kh54s10]

I didn't advocate messing with the water chemistry...I simply said find out what you have. What "tastes" good to you is then known.
And municipal water supplies change their treatment processes so your chemistry may change from time to time. I have personally seen this change in my own submitted samples from year to year.

I am not saying that you should not test your water.

This is a good idea. If you get periodic tests you can determine what has changed and what the effects were.

But, that is beyond what most beginners will need. If there is a problem brewing with the water - change the water. If not, don't worry too much. If you test the water because of a problem, you will need to treat the water, again this is going to confuse things for beginners.

Another negative is that testing is costly and water treatment also adds to the cost of a brew. I am under a fairly tight budget, which is part of the reason I am 3 1/2 years in and have never had my water analyzed.

As I said, at some point I will get an analysis and do water treatments, but am glad my water is good and did not have to mess with this while learning brewing processes from extract - partial mash, all grain and BIAB brews.

 

[kylieWylie]

what does it mean when you refill your airlock and it pulls in drops of water into the fermenting unit?

 

[j1n]

Fermentation temps and controlling them. I couldn't make good beer without my chamber. first 2 batches i had failed due to that alone. I use a chest freezer with temp controller. just set it and forget it.

 

[kylieWylie]

I did open it for a split second to add water. I got this image while it was open.

 

[Joseph503]

Judging by your picture it doesn't appear that any fermentation has taken place. With it being 48+ hours in, I would expect to see some amount of krausen.
Also, with your previous comment saying that the airlock is sucking water in, that sounds like somehow it created a vacuum. The opposite of what would happen during a ferment, with the introduction of CO2 from the yeast.

I would suggest re-pitching. Or you could wait it out a bit longer and check it every 12 or so hours for signs of active fermentation.

 

[sfish]

You said you pitched onto hot wort. I would repitch my yeast and mix and aerate.

If you do not repitch:

Keep the lid on and shake / splash the wort to aerate.

 

[OakPond]

My advice to beginners is to dont even attempt to brew without having a wort chiller. I never realized how long these things can hold temp without an external help. My first brew I got my boil done and was like "uhhhh". I live on a lake, so I set my boil kettle like submerged like 3/4 of the way to cool it down. Luckily it was a cold November day (I believe it was Thanksgiving weekend) and the water was about 38 degrees. So it wasnt a bad idea for my options. Took about 2 and a half hours to get to pitching temp. Beer ended up, very, very good (american wheat extract kit I got with my original setup) despite this however.

Next brew, I was more prepared. Got an ice bath ready in a tub. I had 2 huge bags of ice, and about 8 gallons of water I submerged it almost completely in.

20 minutes later, all the ice was melted, and the temp had only dropped about 50 degrees (it was in the 130 range). Still took an hour and 15 minutes to get to pitching temp.

3rd brew: Threw $60 for a wort chiller I'll have forever, took me 12 minutes to get to pitching temp.

BOOOM.

That second brew I will say, was a lager and it was pretty amazing, nevertheless.

 

[kylieWylie]

Repitch recovery attempt. OG reading was at the mark under the 10 which i think is 1.1. It did have a slight and healthy looking krausen this time i popped the lid and i added this.

 

[kylieWylie]

Seems to have taken off a bit.

 

[wilserbrewer]

With regards to point 2: What is "not fast enough?" I have brewed with my Dad (brewing on my own now) many times and he would let it cool overnight before pitching, every time. I haven't had a bad beer of his... now, I know this is not ideal by any means, but what is "fast enough?"

Your Dad is correct! There is no certain time as to what "is not fast enough".
IMO 12 hours remaining in a sanitary covered kettle should not be an issue. ALWAYS better to pitch yeast late rather than hot.

Pitching hot will almost garantee poor results, pitching late is not an issue IMO. Some no-chill their wort either in an hdpe plastic cube, or overnight in the kettle.

 

[sfish]

KEEP the lid closed. do not open until the airlock stops bubbling

 

[wilserbrewer]

FWIW, the pic in post 29 is showing what I believe to be the initial signs of fermentation. I think your original pitch kicked in a bit delayed.

 

[m00ps]

KEEP the lid closed. do not open until the airlock stops bubbling

Yeah listen to everyone that's suggested this. Youve opened up your brew twice before fermentation ever really got going. That is when it is most vulnerable to infections. Did you liberally use sanitizer on the lid and everything each time you opened it?

 

[Tutsbrew]

Use plain old tap water for your cleaning and save the good water for the brew. No need to worry about microbes if you dilute some Star-San in the water and rinse your equipment with it.

Would hard water offer some pH buffering for the acidic StarSan and thus change it's pH thus rendering it either less effective or giving it a shorter 'shelf life'? (I've noticed a clouding of the solution with tap water much sooner as opposed to distilled.) ...Just wondering.

 

[kylieWylie]

yes.