Mash Tun Valve Higher Than Manifold?

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GhengisT

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I'm building my first mash tun & manifold right now. I found a Igloo IceCube 60qt (http://www.igloocoolers.com/Coolers/Ice-Cube/60-Quart-Ice-Cube-Roller) for $25 at WallyWorld. I really like the form factor when loading it in/out of the coupe.

My only complaint & I knew when buying it is that the drain plug isn't recessed. It actually sits about 2.5" higher at an upward angle. I built a manifold using 1/2" copper & connected it to the valve using a copper T and a piece of 1/2" CPVC, which routes at an upward angle.

I'm assuming the pressure of liquid will be great enough to feed the flow when I open the valve & a vacuum should keep it flowing. I'll be building a manifold on the top for fly sparge as well. Anybody ever route a manifold to a valve that's a bit higher?

(FYI: This is the build I'm aiming for: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-super-efficient-5-gallon-mash-lauter-tun-92724/)
 
Actually, once it gets going it is the siphon effect that will drain it to the bottom, assuming the end of your hose is lower than the input from the mash tun.
 
Actually, once it gets going it is the siphon effect that will drain it to the bottom, assuming the end of your hose is lower than the input from the mash tun.

I'll probably sit the cooler on the counter while it drains into my brew kettle on the floor. You guys don't see any problem with the higher drain valve?
 
I'll probably sit the cooler on the counter while it drains into my brew kettle on the floor. You guys don't see any problem with the higher drain valve?

The wort will seek its own level, so there are no worries until the liquid level gets down past the opening. Then the siphon effect will suck the rest of it out until the openings in your manifold can breathe, breaking the siphon. The more relevant part is how far *down* the opening on your outflow is, as Spartan1979 mentioned.
 
I'm going to estimate 3 & 1/2 ft below the valve on my mash tun.. should be able to get the majority of it.
 
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