Without the recipe, it's really impossible to say what the FG would be. You do know what happens when you assume, yes? It's also the mother of all F-ups.
I was able to grasp how to use BeerSmith pretty easily/quickly (first 1.4, then 2.0)... It's really just a matter of learning where things are, and such. It's not rocket science, it's brewing... :rockin:
In my own efforts to reach temperatures better, easier, faster, I'm converting a [1/2 bbl] keg into a mash tun. It should be large enough to handle my 5 gallon recipes, and maybe even when I move to 10 gallon recipes (might be a bit tight there). I'll be able to direct fire it to reach/maintain the temperatures, and will recirculate the wort so that I don't scorch the grain. For the coming batch, I'll use the 10 gallon mash tun cooler as a HLT. After that, I expect I'll have another burner and will just heat the sparge water shortly before needing it.
There are a few books that will help you formulate your own recipes. Designing Great Beers is one of them. I would also suggest picking up the new Yeast book (by Chris White and Zamil Zainasheff)... You can get some clone recipe books too, if you wish. Or just review recipes on BYO to see how other brews are made and go from there. Get a good database of what the different grains will give you in the brew, and then you'll be able to mix flavors to get what you want. Brew enough batches and you'll see how they blend/meld in brews. Also learn about the hops, picking what works best in the brew, giving flavors that you want. Yeast selection can also be just as important. Don't overlook that. Not only for flavors, characteristics, and attenuation, but also flocculation/clarity... Once I shifted away from plastic fermenters (for my beer, been using glass for mead) it's been easier to let things go. I've gone past the need/urge to see inside the fermenter. I have thermometer strips on the sides of all my fermenters, so that I can tell when things are going on. Increased wort temperature means the yeast is active. Even if the airlock is still, if it's above the ambient air temp (x days after pitching) then it's got things happening. Learning to leave things alone, letting the yeast do it's job is another important step/lesson. Sure, you can have beer pretty quick, but you can have great brew if you let it take the time it needs. There's plenty more things, probably all of them already posted a bazillion times on the boards.