Lowering Efficiency and/or OG

[Blindguardian]

Hello everyone,

I would like to lower my efficiency for my next brew to try to keep the ABV% on the lower end of the style I am going to brew (Scottish Heavy 70/-) right now as it sits with my current grain bill and my current efficiency I would be on the upper end of the style (1.040 OG).

What are some of the ways to lower your efficiency to bring the OG down to lets say 1.035 or 1.036?

I was thinking about doing a no sparge and just collecting the first runnings and then just top that up with water in the brew pot to achieve my pre-boil volume or is there a better way?

 

[DNW]

you could always just use less grain....

 

[Bernie Brewer]

you could always just use less grain....

That was pretty much my thoughts.........

 

[Blindguardian]

I wish I could do that but they are already all mixed together. That was the way I had it shipped to me (as one grain bill).

 

[DNW]

then make a larger batch, i.e. 5.5 gallons instead of 5, if your fermenter will hold it.

 

[Blindguardian]

Sorry I forgot to mention that the batch size is 6.25 in to the pot and 5.5 into the fermenter. that is the largest batch size I can do .
Here is the recipe:

BeerSmith Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Scottish Heavy 70
Brewer: Jerry Barfield
Asst Brewer:
Style: Scottish Heavy 70/-
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (35.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.25 gal
Estimated OG: 1.040 SG
Estimated Color: 15.4 SRM
Estimated IBU: 11.6 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 73.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
5 lbs 15.0 oz Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 71.39 %
15.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 11.30 %
8.0 oz Honey Malt (18.0 SRM) Grain 6.01 %
8.0 oz Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 6.01 %
4.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 3.00 %
3.0 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 2.28 %
0.75 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (40 min) Hops 11.6 IBU
1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) Yeast-Ale


Mash Schedule: (PB) Single Infusion, Full Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 8.32 lb
----------------------------
(PB) Single Infusion, Full Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 11.23 qt of water at 169.6 F 158.0 F
10 min Mash Out Add 4.99 qt of water at 193.5 F 168.0 F

 

[DNW]

Well then I guess what I would do is just go through the process to chilling, check your actual gravity, dilute as required (assuming you actually need to) to get to your desired SG, and just dump whatever doesn't fit in your fermenter (theoretically about 3/4 gallon).

You could also save the leftover wort for future starters if you use them.

 

[Scut_Monkey]

You could also save the leftover wort for future starters if you use them.

I agree with this. Kill two birds with one stone by lowering your OG and making starter wort for you next beers.

 

[gallagherman]

You could dilute it towards the end of the boil, then take as much as you can for the fermenter. Hop utilization won't really matter in this beer.

 

[jescholler]

I was thinking about doing a no sparge and just collecting the first runnings and then just top that up with water in the brew pot to achieve my pre-boil volume or is there a better way?

That's exactly what I would do. Either no sparge, or less sparging. I brewed a Scottish 70/-, but I was a little disappointed with the final product because I got an 83% efficiency. A lower efficiency would have given me a higher quality wort. I think it's especially important for this style because the OG is pretty low. My Scottish 70/- is a little grainy and watery. From what I hear, a 70/- shouldn't be watery. One of the ways I plan to improve my 70/- is to shoot for somewhere near 60% efficiency. I think you'll be pretty happy if you take that route.

 

[mummasan]

I've been trying to figure this out too. What I did for my last two batches was to decide on a specific BG and stick to that. So I did everything the same (grain bill, mash, sparge) but I collected the last two gallons of sparge runoff in a separate container. I then measured the wort in my kettle and determined what to do next, top off with tap water or add more sparge runoff. It was a pain to cool the hydro samples and it added time to my brew day but it also meant that I didn't have to change a recipe or finish with a 9% ABV beer.

 

[z987k]

That's exactly what I would do. Either no sparge, or less sparging. I brewed a Scottish 70/-, but I was a little disappointed with the final product because I got an 83% efficiency. A lower efficiency would have given me a higher quality wort. I think it's especially important for this style because the OG is pretty low. My Scottish 70/- is a little grainy and watery. From what I hear, a 70/- shouldn't be watery. One of the ways I plan to improve my 70/- is to shoot for somewhere near 60% efficiency. I think you'll be pretty happy if you take that route.

High efficiency is not directly correlated with lower quality wort. Plus correlation != causation. There is correlation in some cases under certain conditions and usually at efficiencies above 90%.
It could be that you are extracting tannins at 83% but I doubt it. The "wateryness" has way more to do with your grain bill, mash temp(well the way the entire mash was done) than efficiency.

 

[z987k]

For "lowering" efficiency what I would do is figure out the OG you want. Lets say 1.040 and we're making 5 gallons.
So every gallon take a gravity reading of that gallon(get a refractometer you will thank me and they're about $25. So before you break another hydro just get a refractometer. Plus if your and AG brewer this is really required equipment). You have 1.040 and 5 gallons so you need 200 points.
Say the first runnings are 3 gallons and 1.060(random # I picked) so record 60 x 3 = 180. Second runnings are 1.010(random) and 2 gallons so 10 x 2 = 20. Right there you have all the sugar in the pot that you need. You also have ~ 5 gallons. You can now stop collecting and start the boil. Add water as necessary to keep it at 5 gallons.
Obviously adjust the numbers to fit what you need and what really happens.