Looks like my efficiency is pretty low...can somebody check my math?

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rockgardenlove

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So I brewed an IPA. Here's the grain bill:
10 lbs 2 row
.5 lbs crystal
.5 lbs munich

10# * 37 ppg = 370 points
.5# * 34 ppg = 17 points
.5# * 35 ppg = 17.4 points
**********************
404.5 total points / 5 gal = 80.9 ppg
I planned for 75% efficiency, so 80.9 * .75 = 60.7 points
So I was shooting for a 1.061 OG
Instead, I got 1.044. 44 points (actual)/80.9points (theoretical max points) equals 54% efficiency

Can a beer guru tell me if this looks like reasonable brew math?

I was wondering, I think I started my mash a little bit hot. Maybe 160 instead of 150. I cooled this by adding some water which I then subtracted from the sparge amount. Might this have hurt the enzyme conversion?

Also, I never really got to sparge because it turned out my grain bag (biab) wouldn't fit into my sparge pot. Stupid oversight. And then some semi-sugary sparge water got spilt and stuff.
All things considered I'm pretty sure that's why my efficiency is low. I need to streamline my process so I have no spills.

Thanks!
 
You basically answered your own question. The math looks good to me. No sparge and spills will definitely hurt you. Good luck in the future.
 
I was wondering, I think I started my mash a little bit hot. Maybe 160 instead of 150. I cooled this by adding some water which I then subtracted from the sparge amount. Might this have hurt the enzyme conversion?

I think not, you will only got thinner mash. If you mashed for 60 mins @ 150 it should be enough for starches conversion.
I usually aim at 152, but few degrees up or down shouldn't hurt.
 
One question:
My gravity measurement is after the boil. It seems that many people take a gravity measurement before the boil too (directly after the mash). Should this measurement be taken while the wort is warm and then corrected?
Or does one need to cool a sample to get a good reading?

Thanks!
 
People that don't sparge typically factor in more grain to compensate.

Your efficiency is not as important as consistancy. Once you get you process dialed in for the most part, you can factor in the efficiency you regularly hit to create the propper grain bill!

With that said, are you trying to up the efficiency before you plan recipes around it consistancy? I think the major issues have been covered but I would like to add that when I BIAB, I grind the grains incredibly fine so there is a lot of flour since you dont need to worry about stuck sparges.

That may toss a few more points your way!
 
One question:
My gravity measurement is after the boil. It seems that many people take a gravity measurement before the boil too (directly after the mash). Should this measurement be taken while the wort is warm and then corrected?
Or does one need to cool a sample to get a good reading?

Thanks!

I pull off just enough for a hydro reading, then put it in the tallest skinniest glass possible to cool in the fridge (I have learned the lesson about using the hydrotube in the fridge :D ). It is usually cools withing ten minutes or so...at least well before the wort is brought up to a boil!
 
One question:
My gravity measurement is after the boil. It seems that many people take a gravity measurement before the boil too (directly after the mash). Should this measurement be taken while the wort is warm and then corrected?
Or does one need to cool a sample to get a good reading?

Thanks!

I'd cool it off to a reasonable (90 or lower) temp and then take a gravity reading, you still need to make an adjustment but it's a more accurate adjustment this way. The reason people do this is so they can add DME to hit their target pre boil gravity if their low. Or to dilute with water for the same reason if it goes the other way. A lot of people, especially those who are still dialing in their systems, take readings both pre and post boil. I always toss my pre boil sample back in the kettle.
 
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