Looking for ideas on DIY bar

[redrocker652002]

Ok, so here is what I got. I have a corner of my living room/family room that has basically become my beer storage and sports memorabilia location. So, what I was thinking, was making a bar setup, maybe something in the quarter round style, and figuring out a way to make a cold chamber in the bar to run a couple of corny kegs and taps out of the counter of the bar. Not sure if I am explaining this right, but my wife has seemed to buy into it. Ultimately it would have a nice counter top, 3 taps coming out and a refrigerator style compartment to put my kegs and maybe some glasses and stuff. With shelving to put a few liquor bottles (IE bourbon, tequila and maybe some other stuff like that). I have looked on the Internet for possible ideas, but thought I would ask the experts. 2 or 3 bar stools for sitting and maybe a pad on the rim of the counter to make it look fancy. I probably am not describing it very well, but hopefully you all get the idea. Any body have anything they have already done that fits the idea?

I saw a post here where the user basically took a minifreezer, took the door off and pointed it into a insulated box. Used the door of the freezer to make a new door for his chamber. I thought that was pretty cool, no pun intended. LOL. But there was no finished pics and the post was from 2015.

Anyway, I may be trying to do something that is not possible, but thought I would ask.

Mods, if I put this in the wrong forum please feel free to move. I was not sure where it should go.

Rock On!!!!!!!!

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

There's a lot of options out there for what you want but the size of your area will determine what you can do. Building a keezer is a popular option; that's taking a chest freezer and using a temp controller to get it to beer temps. Lots of ideas on this site with some searching. Another option is repurposing a standard fridge that will hold the kegs. Shelves removed and a stronger bottom for the kegs to sit on and you'll have room for kegs and misc. cans, etc. Taps can safely exit the door although coming out the side is an option too. Just be careful not to hit the lines that possibly run on the side panels. Also lots of ideas here. The mini freezer idea is a great option too but as you stated it needs an insulated box attached and takes up more room, plus the freezer section could be wasted space. I'd op for a repurposed fridge and build your serving area near it.

In my case, I have a fridge on one side of a wall in the brewing area, insulated beer lines pass through a side hole in the fridge and then go through the wall to a tap tower built into a back bar. That's where I have a proper bar with seating. Different than what your describing your area to be but an idea if you have space behind a wall for the fridge part.

I hope this helps some. Try doing a search on this site, "kegerator" or "keezer" and you should be able to find more ideas than you can imagine. When everyone wakes up you'll get tons of suggestions too.

 

[mac_1103]

First thing you need to do is figure out how big the thing is going to be. Then you'll know what size fridge or freezer to start with. A couple of other random thoughts:

Quarter round is a somewhat advanced bit of DIY woodworking.

I've seen photos of DIY keezer and kegerator bars that are not only highly functional but also absolutely beautiful pieces of furniture.

If you don't want to lift your kegs to get them in and out then you don't want a keezer.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

There's kegerators out there that will fit three kegs and maybe a little room for a few cans. With a kegerator the tap tower comes out of the top which could be built in real easy into a bar top or standalone. No lifting kegs into a keezer as it's just a small fridge.

 

[hottpeper13]

It sounds like you could get what you need with a 3 tap commercial kegerator and 1 or 2 dorm or mini fridges,and build the bar around them. That would leave the back bar open for shelves and places to hang stuff.

 

[user 338926]

I'm not sure what your budget is, but I recently had my kegerator die and I could either buy another chest freezer w/lid or get a kegerator w/door for considerably more money. I chose the latter for a couple reasons. One, lifting kegs up over the top of others, while there's hoses and stuff in the way and a lid to contend with, I'd had enough of that. Cleaning the bottom of a chest freezer isn't so fun every time there's a spill, I was sick of that also. And, the fact that using a freezer means not having a frost free environment is occasionally a pain. All these are things I lived with for a decade or more, and I'm still alive, so it can be done. But, after back surgery, I've had about enough of lifting kegs that high too.

I bought a Komos from Morebeer. If I were embarking on a project like this, I'd do it again for sure. Now, I had built a real nice kegerator in the past, having taken the lid off the freezer and building an intermediate 2x6 wooden structure for in between so as to never drill holes in the original freezer, and to allow for 100% freedom with running beer/gas lines. Can you save money this way? Yes. Is it really nice having a setup with a door that's already purpose built for the job? Yes.

Next, is the Komos kegerator perfect? No it is not, and there would be a nice review on Morebeer if they didn't wipe it out without notice . Maybe it was a site bug, word filter, I have no idea. Hitting 'back' on the browser didn't bring it back so I could retry. I even wrote them about it but they didn't know why. And no I wasn't retyping all that so they can just do without a review.

If you have 9" kegs, you can only get 3 in. If you have 2 9" kegs and 2 8-1/2" slim kegs, that will work and still get 4 inside. I happen to have a boatload of slim kegs so it worked out. But all of those were in storage because my previous kegerator was height-challenged and required the 9" kegs. I didn't realize I had enough 8.5s.

I used a temp controller w/thermocouple and solid state relay, all available on ebay even as a package, for $20. You just need to wire it up then.

Make sure whatever you have is on wheels. The wheels on the Komos are nice and are included. I had put a welded alum frame with office chair wheels under my previous unit and that worked great too. Without wheels... no thanks.

Guessing here, but I'd say the difference in budget Komos vs build your own, is about $500. I will also say the freezer is actually quieter, though the Komos comes with a fan and hoses to cool the tower so your first pours are not foamy due to warm faucets. I rarely run that fan if I'm alone, but when there's a group of people at the house, I hit that button for sure. At which point, the unit is audible, but not offensive. It's no surprise a fan makes a little more noise, even inside.

 

[redrocker652002]

Thanks for the replies folks. I probably didn't explain it very well. I am more looking at a DIY as my budget is very limited. I have a ton of stuff I got from BBeerme, and thought maybe I could make something on the cheap. I will keep looking.

 

[user 338926]

 

[redrocker652002]

It sounds like you could get what you need with a 3 tap commercial kegerator and 1 or 2 dorm or mini fridges,and build the bar around them. That would leave the back bar open for shelves and places to hang stuff.

Problem is, I am on a pretty tight budget as I have spent way more on this hobby than my accountant allotted for. LOL.

 

[mac_1103]

I have a ton of stuff I got from BBeerme, and thought maybe I could make something on the cheap.

You almost certainly can build something on the cheap. You just have to decide what your priorities are and what compromises you will and won't make. You could also build something with future upgrades in mind, at least in theory.

 

[redrocker652002]

View attachment 819762
View attachment 819761

Looks nice, but I have to get it is way over my budget.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Check Marketplace or Craig's List for something that looks like it might work for you. You can build as your budget allows and grow into what you want over some time.

 

[user 338926]

Looks nice, but I have to get it is way over my budget.

Not a problem, it's not difficult to build your own. I insulated using 1/2" foam board on the inside of the 2x6 frame, then put an exterior frame around that to hide the 2x6's, and to make a lip on the underside to fit on top of the freezer compartment. Then attached the lid to that frame after it was painted white as shown in the pic. Worked great and served from 4 cornys, but be careful when buying /building to make sure the height above the compressor is enough to get the desired number of kegs inside. Otherwise you'll lose one keg space. I had 4 in mine. Be certain the freezer you get is large enough inside to fit 4 cornys of 9" each. Also, do NOT buy some cheapo brand at Lowes, their house brand is absolute garbage. I would get a name brand freezer at Best Buy or somewhere that has Frigidare or GE, Samsung, LG, etc. I bought a mini-fridge at Lowes when unwilling to believe the horrible reviews... Yep, they were right. I almost never return stuff I buy, but that went back.

I would guess that same thing above could be built between $225 to $300, plus the faucets and stems that are required. The Komos comes with the stems and even the tubing and fittings, but not the faucets themselves. You don't 'need' expensive faucets right away. And in fact, you don't need 3 or 4 of em.

 

[user 338926]

For anyone interested in price comparison info, including shipping and sales tax, my "Build-Your-Own" Komos was $879.78 I bought the unit and the tower, but nothing else. It came with everything I needed and in fact, since I already had a 4-line gas manifold, I didn't need all their cool fancy new fittings (they are nice). The only things I used from before were the faucets and my old corny QD fittings. I didn't buy their new ones but they do have those new shark-bite style things like are provided for the gas, but again, more $. I used the gas and beverage lines they supplied to re-plumb everything.

 

[user 338926]

Thanks for the replies folks. I probably didn't explain it very well. I am more looking at a DIY as my budget is very limited. I have a ton of stuff I got from BBeerme, and thought maybe I could make something on the cheap. I will keep looking.

That freezer in my pic above was a $50 craigslist Matag unit. It was old when I got it, but it was in nice shape. It was a miracle it was built with a small-ish compressor and allowed for 4 cornys. The real expense there was the stems ($29/ea) and the faucets, though there's faucets you can buy for $29 ea too. And, not bad ones either. BTW, my Komos even came with a really nice dual gauge regulator I didn't need. There's another item I wish they'd make as an option so as to get the price of these down. that's another item you'll need if you don't have one already.

If there's one downside to the Komos, it's the fact they have a 17.5" depth, NOT allowing 4 cornys of ANY size to be used. Positively stupid design considering the target audience for a 4 tap system. And they don't even sell a 3 tap tower... For 1/2" more interior depth (2cm, they could have supported 4 of any makes and models of corny kegs in any combination. Dumbest thing I ever saw. This requires the use of slimlines, at least for 2 of the kegs.

Faucets and other gear are easy to find on CL too btw. You can do this for dirt cheap if you add a little elbow grease.

 

[redrocker652002]

That freezer in my pic above was a $50 craigslist Matag unit. It was old when I got it, but it was in nice shape. It was a miracle it was built with a small-ish compressor and allowed for 4 cornys. The real expense there was the stems ($29/ea) and the faucets, though there's faucets you can buy for $29 ea too. And, not bad ones either. BTW, my Komos even came with a really nice dual gauge regulator I didn't need. There's another item I wish they'd make as an option so as to get the price of these down. that's another item you'll need if you don't have one already.

If there's one downside to the Komos, it's the fact they have a 17.5" depth, NOT allowing 4 cornys of ANY size to be used. Positively stupid design considering the target audience for a 4 tap system. And they don't even sell a 3 tap tower... For 1/2" more interior depth (2cm, they could have supported 4 of any makes and models of corny kegs in any combination. Dumbest thing I ever saw. This requires the use of slimlines, at least for 2 of the kegs.

Faucets and other gear are easy to find on CL too btw. You can do this for dirt cheap if you add a little elbow grease.

Cool. I did not see the freezer. I am going to start looking around and see what is out there. I am OK enough with hand tools and construction of light stuff I think I can tackle it with minimal cost. But who knows. Either way, thanks for the info. Craig's list has been my friend for this hobby. LOL. Rock On!!!!!!

 

[redrocker652002]

Not a problem, it's not difficult to build your own. I insulated using 1/2" foam board on the inside of the 2x6 frame, then put an exterior frame around that to hide the 2x6's, and to make a lip on the underside to fit on top of the freezer compartment. Then attached the lid to that frame after it was painted white as shown in the pic. Worked great and served from 4 cornys, but be careful when buying /building to make sure the height above the compressor is enough to get the desired number of kegs inside. Otherwise you'll lose one keg space. I had 4 in mine. Be certain the freezer you get is large enough inside to fit 4 cornys of 9" each. Also, do NOT buy some cheapo brand at Lowes, their house brand is absolute garbage. I would get a name brand freezer at Best Buy or somewhere that has Frigidare or GE, Samsung, LG, etc. I bought a mini-fridge at Lowes when unwilling to believe the horrible reviews... Yep, they were right. I almost never return stuff I buy, but that went back.

I would guess that same thing above could be built between $225 to $300, plus the faucets and stems that are required. The Komos comes with the stems and even the tubing and fittings, but not the faucets themselves. You don't 'need' expensive faucets right away. And in fact, you don't need 3 or 4 of em.

That's more what I was thinking. Build the frame, box in a foam insulation compartment and then either take the door of my old mini fridge and use it as the cooling unit and redo the door to make the box a cooler so to speak. Thanks, I think what you did is what I was thinking could be done with minimal cost and some good old fashioned elbow grease. Rock On!!!!!

 

[user 338926]

As you can see in that pic above, I used something like this. You set the temp with buttons, but you can also program the hysteresis to several degrees so you don't short-cycle your freezer and kill it. This one comes with an SSR that's a little overkill at 25A, but that's not a down side really.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203549027069

 

[user 338926]

Here's one for 18 bucks and free shipping. Complete w/K type thermocouple and SSR

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403304656352

 

[redrocker652002]

Awesome thanks. I think BBeerme gave me something very similar to what you posted. I am going to check it all out and see where it leads. Might be a big nothing, but it could be fun to try.

Thanks again. Rock On!!!!!!!

 

[Toblerone]

What you are planning will very likely work. I like the concept.

My observations and recommendations:

- insulate the box you make to the best of your ability; if you are using 2x4 construction, insulate the entire void space in the walls (1.5 inches, or 3.5 inches, depending on orientation). More insulation = less loss of cooling energy = easier on the compressor!
- mini fridges are a deadly cheap source of cooling (especially used ones). If one dies, it's easy to replace inexpensively. If you use one, make sure you design your build so that you can replace the fridge unit without completely pulling your bar apart! (ie: perhaps use screws rather than construction adhesive)
- try to make the inside of the box somewhat water/beer resistant. A little beer can easily make a moldy mess inside of a fridge, and you want to be able to easily clean it
- you should not require an additional temperature controller if you use a fridge. (It won't hurt anything though, if you decide to add one.)

I have built many different tap systems, using fridges (residential and commercial) and freezers (both upright and chest).

If you have any specific questions, don't hesitate to send me a message.

Cheers!

 

[Broken Crow]

Looks nice, but I have to get it is way over my budget.

I'm normally a DIY guy, but since neural, physical and financial fallout of being injured on the job, I've found myself using the same criteria I used for my studio computers; Build a PC on the cheap and fight with Microsoft just to get my work done, or spend hugely on an Apple and simply do my work...that was settled for me by Microsofts highly flawed IEEE-1394 that destroyed my controller chip and compelled me to actually take out a gun and shoot my computer through the North Bridge... I was in the middle of a paid project. I destroyed the last of my credit card to buy a current iMac, and finished the job within 6 hours of plugging it in.

If there's one downside to the Komos, it's the fact they have a 17.5" depth, NOT allowing 4 cornys of ANY size to be used. Positively stupid design considering the target audience for a 4 tap system.

Not sure what's going on with that, but here in Canada I have the same unit, but with the @KegLand branding and I love it and have zero-regrets over the painful cost. Here's what's in it now:

From rear-right clockwise, that's one classic ancient ball-lock corny, a new kegland corny, an AEB 3G, and rear left is a Chinese 1.6G baby keg which is slightly larger and does prohibit the door closing unless I set it on top of an old metal coffee-can..then it fits fine.
With the research I did on this unit before buying, I learned that many owners find it cycling too often if they've set the readout to F°..it seems setting it to Celcius makes it cyle less often, and on testing it for over a week I found it made a very significant difference.
One addition I also found made a big difference was the tower insulation...I have the same foam from packing material and I cut out a disk for the top, and a triangular piece for around the shanks (cutting those on a 45° angle to allow coolong of the shanks):

 

[mac_1103]

Build a PC on the cheap and fight with Microsoft just to get my work done, or spend hugely on an Apple and simply do my work...

I put up with a lot of crap from Microsoft to avoid spending three times what something is worth and having to join a cult.

 

[user 338926]

Not sure what's going on with that, but here in Canada I have the same unit, but with the @KegLand branding and I love it and have zero-regrets over the painful cost. Here's what's in it now:

From rear-right clockwise, that's one classic ancient ball-lock corny, a new kegland corny, an AEB 3G, and rear left is a Chinese 1.6G baby keg which is slightly larger and does prohibit the door closing unless I set it on top of an old metal coffee-can..then it fits fine.
With the research I did on this unit before buying, I learned that many owners find it cycling too often if they've set the readout to F°..it seems setting it to Celcius makes it cyle less often, and on testing it for over a week I found it made a very significant difference.

Take note, all your kegs are slim kegs. 8.5" (21.6cm), not 9" (22.9cm). If they were the latter, you would only have 3 in there. Lol. You can have 2 of the 22.9cm and 2 of the 21.6 and still get 4 in there. But if they're all the shorter fatter ones, you get 3.

The reasoning for C and not F is, the temp sensor output is piped into an A-D converter, and the native format of the data going to the CPU is Celcius. So, to convert those values (a very finite # of values), you get all sorts of decimals and degrees skipped. That's why you'll never see 33F on the readout. Each temp in C is represented directly, but F is done by math and so while you could have 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 in C, the same temps in F you get 32, 34 for 33.8, 36 for 35.6, 37 for 37.4, 39 for 39.2, and so forth. And yes, that math plays games with the hysteresis on the controller so you would get short cycling depending on what temp you attempt to set it to, due to the aforementioned issues with resolution.

PS. I also insulated my top lid. All in all, I'm quite happy with mine. But I admit it was a hefty price for a mini fridge. It was quite a bear getting those stems and faucets in, eh? Lol. How about the screws at the bottom of the tower! The ones that were not included with my unit...

 

[Broken Crow]

They're not 'slim'..they're just the standard pepsi-type ball-lock kegs. Sounds like your kegs either are or were the Coke pin-locks. If you're in the market for new ones, AEB are top of the line and adhere to the 8.5" standard, or for less; I'm having only good experiences with the Kegland ball-lock kegs. How many do you have?

 

[Broken Crow]

I put up with a lot of crap from Microsoft to avoid spending three times what something is worth and having to join a cult.

I preferred Linux, but my studio hardware and file formats made demands.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Maybe by the term "slim" kegs you mean smaller. As Broken Crow mentioned Pepsi style ball lock kegs are 8.5 inch diameter, I just measured mine to confirm. Coke style pin lock kegs are larger in diameter but shorter in height.

To add some more thought to redrocker, like you don't already have a mind overload, as stated make sure you insulate and seal your insulated box you might build. I found fiberglass panels, used for showers, are a great option for your interior sides and possible the bottom. They are easy to cut, and form. You could also paint them, but they come in white with one side rough and the other a pebble gloss. Make sure the bottom board is structurally able to hold three full kegs. I haven't seen it done but maybe you can source a shower stall bottom for you kegs to sit on. That would have rolled up edges in case you do have a spill it would seep in a spot you can't get to clean.

Ideas are endless, I hope all the suggestions help!

 

[redrocker652002]

Maybe by the term "slim" kegs you mean smaller. As Broken Crow mentioned Pepsi style ball lock kegs are 8.5 inch diameter, I just measured mine to confirm. Coke style pin lock kegs are larger in diameter but shorter in height.

To add some more thought to redrocker, like you don't already have a mind overload, as stated make sure you insulate and seal your insulated box you might build. I found fiberglass panels, used for showers, are a great option for your interior sides and possible the bottom. They are easy to cut, and form. You could also paint them, but they come in white with one side rough and the other a pebble gloss. Make sure the bottom board is structurally able to hold three full kegs. I haven't seen it done but maybe you can source a shower stall bottom for you kegs to sit on. That would have rolled up edges in case you do have a spill it would seep in a spot you can't get to clean.

Ideas are endless, I hope all the suggestions help!

Great ideas. I like the idea of a shower stall bottom. I have to measure them and see. I am working with a rather small area and it has to look decent or my wife will have a fit and we will end up getting in a huge fight, that I don't care to do. I thought about the structural part and the weight, I wasn't sure how I was going to handle that. I was thinking of just buying some 2 inch sheet insulation and making the box and seeing how cold the fridge I have will get it, then go from there. I was actually looking at small, closet style air conditioners, but not finding much. It is all a pipe dream for now. My thought was, I have 11 corny kegs now, why not use them and make it a good excuse to try something new. LOL. Wife is pushing back now, so who knows. All suggestions are awesome, so keep them coming. Rock On!!!!!!!!!

 

[redrocker652002]

I'm normally a DIY guy, but since neural, physical and financial fallout of being injured on the job, I've found myself using the same criteria I used for my studio computers; Build a PC on the cheap and fight with Microsoft just to get my work done, or spend hugely on an Apple and simply do my work...that was settled for me by Microsofts highly flawed IEEE-1394 that destroyed my controller chip and compelled me to actually take out a gun and shoot my computer through the North Bridge... I was in the middle of a paid project. I destroyed the last of my credit card to buy a current iMac, and finished the job within 6 hours of plugging it in.

Not sure what's going on with that, but here in Canada I have the same unit, but with the @KegLand branding and I love it and have zero-regrets over the painful cost. Here's what's in it now:
View attachment 819858
From rear-right clockwise, that's one classic ancient ball-lock corny, a new kegland corny, an AEB 3G, and rear left is a Chinese 1.6G baby keg which is slightly larger and does prohibit the door closing unless I set it on top of an old metal coffee-can..then it fits fine.
With the research I did on this unit before buying, I learned that many owners find it cycling too often if they've set the readout to F°..it seems setting it to Celcius makes it cyle less often, and on testing it for over a week I found it made a very significant difference.
One addition I also found made a big difference was the tower insulation...I have the same foam from packing material and I cut out a disk for the top, and a triangular piece for around the shanks (cutting those on a 45° angle to allow coolong of the shanks):
View attachment 819859
View attachment 819860

OK, I will now concede. LOL. I looked at these and they really look nice. And after pricing some of the material needed for a bar type setup, this might be something to think about. Maybe this and a nice counter top with some shelving would please the wife more. LOL. Either way, I thought they might be a bit more out of my price range, but seems after I price materials for what I am thinking, it is not that much difference. Thanks, the mind is still working out the details. LOL Rock On!!!!!!!!!!

 

[mac_1103]

OK, so maybe not entirely on topic, but just for what it's worth... my first fun retirement project (aside from brewing) was to build a nice set of shelves for my liquor and glassware. Turned out nice enough that I decided to build a bar to go with it. No built-in kegerator or anything close to that. Just open shelves for more glassware, bar tools, etc. I used repurposed old lumber for the framing and still spent around $600 on materials. Buying a free standing bar and shelf unit of comparable quality would have cost a lot more of course (and would not have been nearly as much fun), but my point is that there ain't no free and you have to be careful about project creep when you embark on a DIY that was originally supposed to be about saving money.

 

[redrocker652002]

OK, so maybe not entirely on topic, but just for what it's worth... my first fun retirement project (aside from brewing) was to build a nice set of shelves for my liquor and glassware. Turned out nice enough that I decided to build a bar to go with it. No built-in kegerator or anything close to that. Just open shelves for more glassware, bar tools, etc. I used repurposed old lumber for the framing and still spent around $600 on materials. Buying a free standing bar and shelf unit of comparable quality would have cost a lot more of course (and would not have been nearly as much fun), but my point is that there ain't no free and you have to be careful about project creep when you embark on a DIY that was originally supposed to be about saving money.

Great post, and I agree. Nothing I do seems to go as planned, and usually costs twice as much as I thought. I am now thinking of buying a kitchen base cabinet, putting it on a riser and then setting a nice counter top on it. It will look decent to keep the wife happy, I can insulate it and do what I am thinking of doing with the multi tap setup and keep everybody happy. We will see. As of now, it is just me who drinks beer, so a single tap isn't bad, but I have all these kegs that could be of good use now. LOL. Always thinking of stupid stuff to do. LOL Anyway, great posts by all. Rock On!!!!!!!!!!

 

[user 338926]

They're not 'slim'..they're just the standard pepsi-type ball-lock kegs. Sounds like your kegs either are or were the Coke pin-locks. If you're in the market for new ones, AEB are top of the line and adhere to the 8.5" standard, or for less; I'm having only good experiences with the Kegland ball-lock kegs. How many do you have?

I have 18 5 gallon cornies in total. About an even split of slim or fat. Maybe a few more slims thankfully. Here's a pic showing mine with two fat kegs on one side. It won't close this way. But with even just swapping that front keg to a slim keg you can see it just barely sticks out and the door has enough relief in it to allow for that and still close.

 

[user 338926]

They're not 'slim'..they're just the standard pepsi-type ball-lock kegs. Sounds like your kegs either are or were the Coke pin-locks.

Yes, some are Pepsi and some are coke. I don't know which is which, I just know that kegs are made in two different sizes.

For instance, here are torpedo kegs. Regular size and Slimline. Same price whichever you buy.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/torpedo-ball-lock-kegs.htmlhttps://www.morebeer.com/products/slimline-torpedo-ball-lock-kegs.htmlOne is 9 in diameter, the other is 8 1/2 in.

I'm not looking to swap any of mine out really. As long as half the kegs in my Kegerator are 8 1/2 in, it all works out fine. I'm not saying you could put another piece of first class mail in there and still close the door, but it does close.

 

[mac_1103]

First class mail comes in a wide variety of sizes.

 

[Skeeter686]

I am now thinking of buying a kitchen base cabinet, putting it on a riser and then setting a nice counter top on it. It will look decent to keep the wife happy, I can insulate it and do what I am thinking of doing with the multi tap setup and keep everybody happy.

I did that for my first bar and it turned out great! I didn't have kegs / taps at the time, but it should well for that. Figure out what you want to do, take measurements, and lay it out on paper.

The pre-laminated counter top saves a lot of hassle, although you could also build the top and glue the laminate to it, yourself.

Good luck! And post pics when you're finished!

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Depending on the types of cabinets available you might be able to fit into that corner spot you have.

Some of the home improvement stores could do a computer layout design for you with the cabinets they sell. You just need to figure out if a fridge system would fit.

 

[redrocker652002]

Thanks all. Also will need to figure out how to vent the fridge so it doesn't overheat the motor. All this stuff going thru my head. Probably will never work, but it is fun to think about trying it. LOL. Rock On!!!!!!!!!

 

[Whisky River]

I wouldn’t be so quick to say it will never work…it looks like that’s exactly what this guy did with his ferm chamber. Seems like he mounted the mini-fridge sideways facing into the insulated cavity and then reattached the door to the front. If you didn’t live on the other coast i would say buy it for the $50 and get a good start on your project for pretty cheap.

 

[redrocker652002]

I wouldn’t be so quick to say it will never work…it looks like that’s exactly what this guy did with his ferm chamber. Seems like he mounted the mini-fridge sideways facing into the insulated cavity and then reattached the door to the front. If you didn’t live on the other coast i would say buy it for the $50 and get a good start on your project for pretty cheap.
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I think this was what I saw that got me thinking of doing it. Looked easy enough. If it wasn't this one it was something very close. Rock On!!!!

 

[passedpawn]

<-- waiting for the "I want to build a small DIY bar in the corner of my family room that costs as much as possible" thread. I'd love to contribute here, but you see the problem.