Looking for an extremely simple explanation of how to connect ball lock quick disconnect to regulato

[Chris_in_Seattle]

Hello. Please forgive any exasperation in my tone as I have drained two complete tanks of CO2 and have no. freaking. idea. what I'm going to do. Honestly, this is the closest I've ever come to giving up entirely on homebrewing and it's because of kegging and its complexity.

Let me show you pictures of my parts. I have these four items and I will explain my connections afterward:



I have inserted the barbed fitting (it is the correct size) into the gas line (it is the correct size) and put a hose clamp collar (it is the correct size) around the connection to tighten it.

I then screw the swiveled connection to the gas line ball lock quick disconnect and tighten.

When connected to the keg, gas leaks from the area where the barbed fitting is inserted into the gas line AND from the connection to the gray QD. I have tried to use one of these:


to see if it helps. It doesn't.

What. Am. I. Missing. Here. I have searched this forum and ALL OVER the internet for the most basic explanation of how these parts should go together. From everything I've read, I'm doing this correctly. If that's the case, then I shouldn't be having leaks. Honestly, you can try it yourself: there is no simple explanation or diagram of how a gas-line connects to the keg.

Honest to God, I am just a few seconds away from giving up on this hobby that I've grown to love because of this. I am so, so sick of having stupid, tiny gas leaks no matter what I do.

Your generous help is EXTREMELY AND DEEPLY APPRECIATED.

 

[day_trippr]

What inside diameter line are you using? And is that a 1/4" barbed swivel?
In any case:
- at the disconnect end, you do not use a nylon flare gasket, as the disconnect has an integrated gasket at the tip of its threads.
- tighten that connection with a wrench, not just finger-tight.
- the worm clamp needs to be very tight to squish the line tight, especially if you're using 1/4" ID tubing with a 1/4" barb. Otoh, if you're using 3/16" ID line with a 1/4" barb the tubing will be nearly serviceable without a clamp at all (but don't try that )

Test the connection in water, because there's a good chance you're thinking "swivel joint leak" but it may be a "tubing leak" under the worm clamp instead.

And while you're here, what's at the other end of that tubing? If it's a regulator, does it have a 1/4" MFL connection or a barb connection, and how secure is it? Also, are you sure you're not losing gas at the regulator to cylinder connection? Make sure there's some kind of gasket for the coupler unless it has an integrated O-ring.

Finally, when you open a CO2 cylinder you should open it to the stop - ie: totally, fully open, because the valve stem packing is not to be relied upon...

Cheers!

 

[Chris_in_Seattle]

The gas line is 5/16" ID. The barbed swivel is a 5/16" barb. It is not particularly difficult to push into the gas line but not easy, either, nor loose in the line. It is impossible to pull the barb out from the line. The worm clamp is very tight. I've done the water-submerging and the bubbles are emanating from the cut end of the gas line on the other side of the collar.

 

[day_trippr]

So the leak is between the tubing and the barb. No bueno.
Are you using the smallest worm clamp that can do the job? Because as they get larger the screw assembly leaves ever larger uncompressed gaps on either side...

Cheers!

 

[bjhbrew]

I’d add that I prefer to use Oetiker clamps for this purpose for the reason that day tripper stated (the worm screw mechanism leaving an uncompressed area on either side)

 

[Chris_in_Seattle]

I can try a tighter clamp. Just to confirm that I'm not completely dumb -- do I have the line set up correctly in my earlier description?

 

[Bobby_M]

If you use an Oetiker style clamp, you can get away with a 5/16" barb in a 5/16" ID hose. If you're using a worm clamp like the picture, you really want a barb that is 1/16" bigger than the tube ID. At that point, the clamp is almost not necessary. Worm clamps don't apply even pressure at these small diameters.

The swivel connection to the grey disconnect should be about 1/4 turn past hand tight. Use a wrench. If it still leaks, inspect the plastic end of the threaded area to check for pits or other defects.

 

[day_trippr]

Agreed, the easiest solution might be to get some 1/4" gas tubing.

I've never understood the 5/16" ID gas line thing that seems/seemed to be a kegerator standard. There's zero reason to go with that large a bore, I ran 3/16" ID gas lines on 1/4" swivels for almost 10 years just fine, and now I'm running 5mm gas lines, and could have gone with 4mm...

Cheers!

 

[odie]

I never knew you were supposed to open a gas cylinder valve completely...I always open several turns, but never to the valve stopping