Long periods of fermentation

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Joedub

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Ok so I am brand new to brewing (besides mr beer). I just purchased a kit that includes a 6 1/5 gallon fermenting bucket. My first beer will be a clone from my local brewery that should take about 4 weeks. I am extract brewing if that matters.

I really want to be able to have 2 batches fermenting. I want one of them to be a strong beer (long fermentation). Now can I pick up a second (maybe third for secondary fermentation and another fermenting brew) plastic bucket for these long period fermentations? Will plastic have a ill effect? Should I get a glass carboy? I like the plastic just because it wont get broken.
 
Everyone has there say in this. But in short no ill effect in plastic. I personally use glass but LOTS of people use ale pails with out a problem. Welcome to the addiction!
 
You could certainly get a few more buckets and do several batches at one time. I can't think of any beers that require a "long period of fermentation", though. They usually finish up in a week or so. Then they can be left for a few weeks to condition a bit before bottling.

Well, lagers spend more time in the fermenter, I guess. I rack them out of the fermenter when they have finished the diacetyl rest, though- I wouldn't leave it in the plastic bucket for months.

I guess I would recommend using the bucket for almost all of the beers you want to make. If you're making a lager or a barley wine that you want to age for a bit, then invest in a carboy.
 
There are some high alcohol stouts on northern brewer that say they take 8 months from brewing to drinking.
 
Well, that doesn't mean that they stay in a bucket on top of the yeast cake for all that time. Generally, the beer is quite safe in a bucket for a month or so. After that, you're going to want to move it to protect it from oxidation and get it off of the trub. Moving it to another bucket isn't good- the wide opening means there is way too much headspace.

I'm certain that the recipe will tell you to use a secondary, or to bottle the beer, to age it NOT keep it in a plastic bucket for 8 months.

I don't typically use a secondary, but for a beer like that I might. I'd leave it in the bucket for two-three weeks, then rack (siphon) to a 5 gallon carboy for the rest of the time to bulk age and condition.
 
I know a beer sitting that long needs to move to secondary fermenter. This is the beer http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/ImperialStout.pdf. My question was does that secondary fermenter need to be glass or can it be plastic?

Also why do some of these recipes like the one I posted tell you to condition the beer in a secondary fermenter even if fermentation is done in the primary after the first week or two?
 
Yes the secondary fermenter needs to be glass or plastic, but not just any plastic will do. Look at Better Bottles for the plastic secondary. They don't break and they don't let oxygen in to oxidize your beer.

The recipes call for seccondary based on some old mis-perceptions that have beer disproven, but the word hasn't reached them yet. The thought was that leaving the beer on the yeast cake was detrimental because of the yeast dying and giving off flavors. It doesn't happen. At least not for over 4 weeks.
 
Yes the secondary fermenter needs to be glass or plastic, but not just any plastic will do. Look at Better Bottles for the plastic secondary. They don't break and they don't let oxygen in to oxidize your beer.

The recipes call for seccondary based on some old mis-perceptions that have beer disproven, but the word hasn't reached them yet. The thought was that leaving the beer on the yeast cake was detrimental because of the yeast dying and giving off flavors. It doesn't happen. At least not for over 4 weeks.

Right. As I said earlier, a bucket is NOT for secondary. It has a very wide opening, so it's got a much bigger headspace above the beer.

That's fine for primary, and a bit after, because the yeast action causes plenty of co2 to be released and it fills that headspace. That's why it's safe there for 2-4 weeks without issue. Once you rack, though, the fermentation is over and while there is still some co2 in suspension, no more is being produced to fill the headspace. That's why it's important to use a carboy. Either plastic or glass is fine- but you want something that won't be permeable to oxygen.

I personally would keep the beer in the fermenter for about 3 weeks, and then bottle it to age unless I was adding something like vanilla beans or oak in the secondary.
 
Yooper, I have a question for you. I have my first ever batch in primary now since sunday(Rasberry Wheat Hefeweisen,extract kit w/ white labs yeast), when I get 3 consecutive hydrometer readings I want to transfer to secondary just so I can get my pipeline going, but I'm confused from over reading all the different thoughts on this forum about what I should do once it's in my secondary, I mean for temps. should I keep it at the same temp. I had it at while it was fermenting(ambient is around 68*-70* or do I need to move the secondary to somwhere thats around 40* for cold crashing or whatever thats called? I.m seriously confused as hell, thanks for any input! Joedub, sorry to hack you're thread!
 
Another newb here, but hefeweizens are my favorite beer style, and BfB is right. Hefes are best young, and un-fussed-with. Leave it in primary until fermentation has stopped (~2 weeks to be safe), bottle, let it carb for a few weeks, and drink it fresh. You don't want to secondary, filter, crash, or otherwise clear a hefe (generally).
 
Ok well my thread kind of go high jacked. Can some anwser why do some recipes tell you to do 1 or 2 months of secondary fermentation? What does this accomplish if primary fermentation is done already?
http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/PeatSmokedPorter.pdf
http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/BalticPorter.pdf

Most all these recipes are for darker beers (porter,stout). So does the extra malt in these beers need time to do something?

Well, you certainly do can that. It really doesn't do anything magical- just gives the beer time to condition and clear a bit. Bulk aging means more uniform aging, but aging can occur in the bottle, too.

I'd only use a secondary if I was adding vanilla beans or oak or something like that. Using a secondary is coming out of favor now, but in the "old days", it was routine. The thought was it would be beneficial to move the beer off of the "dead yeast" as soon as possible to avoid off-flavors. Studies (and many brewer's experiences) show that is not really an issue with today's quality ingredients and so many people are simply skipping the secondary and leaving the beer longer in the primary (up to 4 weeks or so).

Neither way is wrong, so do whatever seems convenient to you. I think one advantage of a secondary is that you can't drink the beer too early! It's pretty easy to sample a few when they're already bottled!
 
Secondary can just be at ambient temps. Are you adding fruit? If not I would agree with BoundForBeer. Also, I wouldn't cold crash a hefe. That's for clearing.
 

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