LME or DME

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FishH2o

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So I have a few kits under my belt and they turned out pretty good. I am starting to leave the kits behind and follow recipes that others have done. However, I see some use LME and others use DME. I’m curious what you all prefer and why? I have the ingredients for 2 brews in the refrigerator one using LME and one DME just to see.


Thanks!!
:mug:
 
I find the DME easier to use; wrt weight, mixing, storing, using partial lbs after I change my recipe, etc.. etc... Plus I burned myself on that LME one time when it got too hot trying to get it out of the container...

I think overall I like DMe better...
 
DME is much easier to use and handle, and I wasn't able to tell the difference in flavor between the different types... then again, I'm still developing my palate.

It's easy to split up a bag and store for use in future brews, starters, or even as sugar in your tea. You can do that stuff with LME, but it's much more of a hassle, and harder to pour and easier to scorch.
 
Ive only used LME but im switching to DME because im starting to get into PM brewing and my LHBS sells 1 lb bags of DME. Plus on my last batch i burnt some LME on the bottom of the pan because i wasnt able to stir it fast enough.
 
use the search option for lots of discussion and lots of good info from several people. This topic comes up about once a week.

In general,
DME: more expensive, longer shelf life, can get much lighter in color than LME, doesnt darken with age, is a stick mess when in contact wiht moisture humidity, stores easily in vacuum bags or plastic containers.
LME: less expensive (even on a dry pound basis), shorter shelf life, usualy cant maintain low levels of color, darkens as the product ages, is a pain to pour even when heated its tough to get all out of containers, i dont believe it would be easy to split up into other containers.

A gentlmen from Briess did a real good interview on brewing network one time that you can download for free.
 
A gentlmen from Briess did a real good interview on brewing network one time that you can download for free.
Click to expand...

Awesome I am looking for it now.

Thanks everyone for your insights I appreciate it :)
:mug:
 
I do PM and use LME. It works out cheaper and I have no problems with it. Buy it in 33 lb plastic containers. Weigh it out into large glass pyrex jugs, and re-cap. Stores OK in the basement, but it's consumed within a few months of opening.
 
I have a question about the use of Cooper's Light malt extract with the Cooper's selection Pilsener kit.

The LME can is 1,5 kg. - in order to make 23 liters (5 gallons?) out of this kit, and aiming at 4,7% ABV - how much of the LME would be appropriate to use?

The whole 1,5kg. can?
 
You would likely need 2 cans. or 1 can and 2-3 lbs LME. What do your directions say????

They likely say add the can with 3 pounds dextrose or corn sugar - DONT DO THAT. Use another can of extract or better yet buy a few pounds of dry malt extract.
 
kegtoe,

I'm already going to use the Cooper's Selection Pilsener (pre hopped) as the "base" malt ingredient, and figured adding this Light malt extract instead of standard dextrose.

The Light malt extract that I'm wondering about using is exactly 3,3lbs / 1,1 litres.
 
1 lb LME = 36 points. 3.3 lbs LME = 120 points. In 5 gallons that will give you a gravity of 1.024

6.6 lbs would therefore give you 1.048.

Assuming 75% attenuation (FG = 1.012) the abv would be ~4.7%.

Hope this helps you work it out.
 
Sorry, i missed that part. Its going to be tough to answer this question because alcohol content is going to depend on your OG and how much(little) your yeast attenuates.

I just looked at a couple of my old extract batches i added 2# DME on a couple batches and 3# LME on a batch to the canned kit. My OGs were from 1045 to 1055 and finished 4.5-5.1% alcohol. Now everyones setup is a bit different but i'd think you'd be ok with the whole can. If you are a little high on your starting gravity you could add 1/4 to1/2 gallon to get the gravity down a bit.

brewew said:
kegtoe,

I'm already going to use the Cooper's Selection Pilsener (pre hopped) as the "base" malt ingredient, and figured adding this Light malt extract instead of standard dextrose.

The Light malt extract that I'm wondering about using is exactly 3,3lbs / 1,1 litres.
Click to expand...
 
I prefer lme my old hbs sold it in bags which at first were difficult but I learned how to get 99.9% out by folding and sliding on the brew pot. I did make a batch using I think was 16# of dme and had a hard time breaking it all up once in the wort. Seemed easer to get into the boil but not to mix.
 
brewew said:
I have a question about the use of Cooper's Light malt extract with the Cooper's selection Pilsener kit.

The LME can is 1,5 kg. - in order to make 23 liters (5 gallons?) out of this kit, and aiming at 4,7% ABV - how much of the LME would be appropriate to use?

The whole 1,5kg. can?
Click to expand...

Your beer will be good with the whole can, better than dextrose if you like it richer and maltier, and it is easier just to use a whole can rather than leaving some behind. But why do you care if it is exactly 4.7 or a little more/less? If you want to know the AVB that it would give you, I've just found a really cool spreadsheet application on another forum that includes data on the Coopers kits - http://beerandgarden.com/home-brewing-resources/ - click on Kit & Extract Beer Designer under Brewing Tools - you can plug in your recipe of the Coopers Pilsner + can of Coopers LME and you'll get the estimated ABV and also other beer profile info.
 
I agree with some of the others--DME might be more expensive, but I've found so far that it gives more versatility--if i want to make a lighter beer, I can do so much easier, especially doing a late addition. At this point, I don't think I'll be going back to LME.
 
I started with LME, then switched to DME. I hated the way the DME clumped up into little goo-balls when I added it to the water. So, I switched back to LME (now switching to all-grain, but that's another story). I find the LME mixes easier and overall makes for a more enjoyable brewing experience.
 
Grantman1 said:
I agree with some of the others--DME might be more expensive, but I've found so far that it gives more versatility--if i want to make a lighter beer, I can do so much easier, especially doing a late addition. At this point, I don't think I'll be going back to LME.
Click to expand...

I really don't see how DME can give more versatility. It's the same thing as LME just with more moisture removed. Why would that allow you to make a lighter beer?
 
I do partial boils and after multiple attempts could not get a light colored beer with LME - that's what I meant by more versatility.
 
Grantman1 said:
I do partial boils and after multiple attempts could not get a light colored beer with LME - that's what I meant by more versatility.
Click to expand...

Technically, you'd think there would be no difference. LME is essentially DME that hasn't been dried out all the way. So, technically, you should be able to get the same coloring. Why it's not happening that way is a mystery to me. Oh well, just was curious.
 
Well this has turned out to be a good thread for me. I have learned a lot and it made me do some additional research. I think I will brew the DME wheat with a late extraction the weekend of the 15th. This weekend I am going to do a brown ale with LME. No I need to decide what yeats I am going to use for the Brown Ale :)
:mug:
 
Yea, thanks for sharing your views... I'll give my LME can a go in my lager pilsener today... :)
 
All my previous batches have used mainly LME, maybe only a pound or so of DME. But last week I did a Gumball head clone that was all DME. I have to say, getting all that DME to dissolve was a pain. There were huge icebergs of the stuff floating and it got real foamy. It caused my first boilover ever. I ended up having to scoop out all the foam and took some chunks with it. So, all you DME fans, any tips for working with this stuff?
--This did end up being my lightest in color batch, for what it's worth.
 
I always empty it from the bag into a container first- when the steam hits it, the clumps are much easier to get out of a container with a spoon than from the bag. I stir the wort a lot to get it moving before putting in the DME, just a little at a time. Having said that though, I only put in half at a time since I've been doing the late addition, so I can see how clumps would happen if you are putting 6+ lbs in at once.
 
Calder said:
1 lb LME = 36 points. 3.3 lbs LME = 120 points. In 5 gallons that will give you a gravity of 1.024

6.6 lbs would therefore give you 1.048.

Assuming 75% attenuation (FG = 1.012) the abv would be ~4.7%.

Hope this helps you work it out.
Click to expand...

How do you run these figures??? I would really like to learn how!
 
For the most part I've preferred DME. But lately I've been brewing with LME. A week ago I brewed a PM recipe, where I used two pounds of DME. I have to say I think I'm going to stick with liquid extract. The clumping is a pain, and the hot breaks seem to be worse with DME. I buy my LME from Northern Brewer, and it's fresh and cheaper than the dry stuff.

My next test is to brew my extra pale ale with LME. I've been able to get that beer incredibly light colored using DME.
 
Ace_Club said:
Technically, you'd think there would be no difference. LME is essentially DME that hasn't been dried out all the way. So, technically, you should be able to get the same coloring. Why it's not happening that way is a mystery to me. Oh well, just was curious.
Click to expand...

It's not that easy, DME isn't just LME thats been dried more. They go through 2 different processes (at least Briess does).
 
kegtoe said:
It's not that easy, DME isn't just LME thats been dried more. They go through 2 different processes (at least Briess does).
Click to expand...

I did not know that. Do you happen to have any more info about this? A web link or something. I'd be interested to read about it.
 
Ace_Club said:
I did not know that. Do you happen to have any more info about this? A web link or something. I'd be interested to read about it.
Click to expand...

IIRC after mashing, lautering and concentrating. The extract is sprayed into some sort of dryer. The dry spray is what the DME particles are.
 
The only advantage to DME that I seem to notice is what some people complain about, that is floats and forms clumps. I would rather stir for a few extra minutes that scorch my malt on the bottom.
 
mixedbrewer said:
The only advantage to DME that I seem to notice is what some people complain about, that is floats and forms clumps. I would rather stir for a few extra minutes that scorch my malt on the bottom.
Click to expand...

I scorched my LME once. I've never done it since. You need to stir your wort fairly vigorously while adding the extract. When you're done adding the extract, continue to stir for several minutes so the extract completely dissolves. It's easier to do with two people, so I usually have my wife help with that part. But I've done it by myself with no problems.

It also helps to remove the pot from the heat while doing it.
 
I just add the DME in 2 lb increments until the chunks are greatly reduced. It only adds a couple extra minutes.
 
Considering LME is 80% malt... that means a 3.3 lb container is only 2.64 lbs of malt. At 8.99 a can, thats 3.40 per lb. DME is almost, if not 100% malt. At 9.99 for a 3lb bag it is 3.33 per lb. So I tend to disagree with that... DME is actually cheaper around here.
 

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