List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

[RocketBrewer]

PJ,
First, let me say thanks for all you have contributed here! Your time and effort is very appreciated. It is truly amazing how much work you have put into helping others. I have learned so much just from this thread. Maybe you could put up a paypal link so those of us who have enjoyed your work could at least buy you a beer .

I am getting ready to start building my first electric brewery and have been studying controllers including The Electric Brewery and ebrewsupply. I have found that I like features from both of them. I also like many of your designs. The one of your's that comes closest to what I'd like to build is this one...

If you saw fit to help one more rookie my wish list would include these changes...

1) To use two of the SYL-2352 PID's for HLT and BK control.

2) Add the Auber JSL-73A brewing timer (I like the ability to pre-program all the timers I need before starting the brew).

3) I would also like to incorporate the ability to run the PID and timer alarms through on/off switches to a central buzzer/LED with reset button like Kal uses in his controller here.. http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=12.

I had one other question about how you set up the resistors in the e-stop... should you use a small circuit board to mount them with jumpers or is there some easier method?

Feel free to make any suggestions or comments that come to mind and even if you decide not to take this on..... THANKS FOR ALL YOU'VE DONE!

 

[Frymn1969]

PJ,

First, let me say thanks for all you have contributed here! Your time and effort is very appreciated. It is truly amazing how much work you have put into helping others. I have learned so much just from this thread. Maybe you could put up a paypal link so those of us who have enjoyed your work could at least buy you a beer .



I am getting ready to start building my first electric brewery and have been studying controllers including The Electric Brewery and ebrewsupply. I have found that I like features from both of them. I also like many of your designs. The one of your's that comes closest to what I'd like to build is this one...

If you saw fit to help one more rookie my wish list would include these changes...



1) To use two of the SYL-2352 PID's for HLT and BK control.



2) Add the Auber JSL-73A brewing timer (I like the ability to pre-program all the timers I need before starting the brew).



3) I would also like to incorporate the ability to run the PID and timer alarms through on/off switches to a central buzzer/LED with reset button like Kal uses in his controller here.. http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=12.



I had one other question about how you set up the resistors in the e-stop... should you use a small circuit board to mount them with jumpers or is there some easier method?



Feel free to make any suggestions or comments that come to mind and even if you decide not to take this on..... THANKS FOR ALL YOU'VE DONE!

I whole hearted second your appreciation for P-J's contribution to home brewing.

I also happen to like your idea for a panel. I would add two changes to your specs; 1. Add ability to monitor but not control one more temp input, 2. Upgrade the BK output to 80 amp for those really large or high gravity beers.

Cheers!!!

 

[P-J]

...
2) Add the Auber JSL-73A brewing timer (I like the ability to pre-program all the timers I need before starting the brew).

...
I also happen to like your idea for a panel. I would add two changes to your specs; 1. Add ability to monitor but not control one more temp input, 2. Upgrade the BK output to 80 amp for those really large or high gravity beers.
...

Just a small over view. I spent a lot of time today trying to deveop an image of the JSL-73A timer so that I can include it in a wiring diagram. You might think this is an easy task. Try it and see how you do in handling your drawings.

And then we have the development of an 80 amp panel design...

It wll takes me quite a bit of time to develop the diagrams that you two requested..

Patience .. Please...

 

[Frymn1969]

Take all the time you need P-J. The 80 amp would only be on the BK side to run 2 elements in the BK when not running BK HLT simultaneously. This would help get 30 gallon batches boiling. I definitely like the timer idea, plus being able to monitor Mash Tun temp. You Rock!

 

[RocketBrewer]

PJ, ABSOLUTELY NO RUSH. I expect nothing, If you find the time and wish to help me, AWESOME! But you owe me nothing. You are so cool for doing all this I just feel a little guilty for even asking. I wish you lived close enough that I could do something to return the favor.

I agree it would be nice to have a temp monitor on the mash output. Kal's system uses another PID just to monitor the temp. It doesn't actually control anything but does have the alarm feature. I haven't come across any other methods yet (other than just an analog gauge).

Originally I thought it would be nice to be able to control two elements in either the HLT or BK if you weren't heating both at the same time to speed things up for back-to-back, but I have a feeling it would become to convoluted on a 50A system. All the 50A systems I've seen seem to either be able to heat 1 element in each kettle simultaneously, or 2 elements in each with the ability to heat only one kettle or the other. I haven't seen any system with an 80A GFI yet, very curious to see What PJ comes up with there!

Once again PJ,
YOU ROCK!:rockin:

Matt

 

[RocketBrewer]

3) I would also like to incorporate the ability to run the PID and timer alarms through on/off switches to a central buzzer/LED with reset button like Kal uses in his controller here.. http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=12.

PJ,
Originally I thought that Kal's system used a single reset button to reset any of the alarms (PID's or Timer). In looking some more at Kal's alarm design, I've noticed that the reset button he uses only resets the timer he uses because it appears to require an external reset button. All the PID's seem to use their own reset buttons. Since the JSL-73A timer has a reset button, an external one isn't required. While a single reset button for everything would be cool, it certainly isn't required. I still would like to utilize a central buzzer/light for the alarms with switches to activate/de-activete the alarm for each of the PID's and timer. I don't know if that had anything to do with the difficulty of adding the timer to the system, but thought i'd point that out.

I also think that I would definitely like to utilize a third PID for mash monitoring as well (I should be able to figure out how to add it myself if you already designed it without)

Thanks again,
Matt

 

[exe]

Hi PJ - thanks for all your contributions here! I am VERY interested in building the very simplistic RIMS controller on pg 21 of the thread, but I like to understand all the rationale before building something like this. I have temp controllers set up for my kegerator and fermentation chamber and neither require a SSR. Can you explain to me why an SSR is needed for a RIMS setup? If there is another post on this topic please feel free to send me in that direction instead of answering here.

Again - thanks!

 

[P-J]

Hi PJ - thanks for all your contributions here! I am VERY interested in building the very simplistic RIMS controller on pg 21 of the thread, but I like to understand all the rationale before building something like this. I have temp controllers set up for my kegerator and fermentation chamber and neither require a SSR. Can you explain to me why an SSR is needed for a RIMS setup? If there is another post on this topic please feel free to send me in that direction instead of answering here.

Again - thanks!

The SSR is required as the PID I choose to use cannot control the raw power requied for the element without it.

 

[exe]

The SSR is required as the PID I choose to use cannot control the raw power requied for the element without it.

I think I follow. To paraphrase (correct me if I'm wrong), the difference is that the the Love switch has a higher output which would allow for powering the freezer\heating element, but for a RIMS application where accuracy is key it makes more sense to go with a PID.

 

[BigFloppy]

I think I follow. To paraphrase (correct me if I'm wrong), the difference is that the the Love switch has a higher output which would allow for powering the freezer\heating element, but for a RIMS application where accuracy is key it makes more sense to go with a PID.

The Love controller uses a mechanical relay as it's switching engine, an SSR by design has no moving parts. you could probably do the same mods to a Love controler, much like this guy... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/rex-c100-pid-cheapest-pid-ebay-254480/.

ALSO, if you were to drive a mechanical relay at both the speeds and power rating an SSR can handle, you'd either be welding the terminals of the relay shut in next to no time, or not even getting the relay to actuate

 

[BigFloppy]

link to more P-J diags
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/control-panel-question-456901/

 

[dhoge]

PJ, I would like to thank you in advance, for all the knowledge and drawings you share. People like you make this world a better place. After reading through this thread and drawings, I have determined that this diagram is prob my best bet. Please correct me if i am wrong.

30a 5500 2 element 2 pump single PID estop

I have a simple setup, but like the idea of being able to upgrade.
What I have now- 30 amp breaker in main panel- 10/4 wire to 50 amp gfci spa panel- 3 prong dryer plug- 5500 watt camco element to heat HLT- 120v chugger pump to transfer HLT and sparge- gravity fed BK propane fired.
I want to add in the future, a herms, another pump, and possibly another element for the BK.
Any criticisms and help is much appreciated.
Derek

 

[exe]

Ok. Here is a diagram that you can use.

As always click on the image to see and save a fullscale diagram for your build.



I hope this helps you.

P-J

P-J: On this one, if the RIMS is 1500W, could I use one conventional wall outlet to power both the pump & RIMS by breaking the tab on the hot side of the outlet? That would reduce some of the wiring required and make the build a little cleaner for me. If that is possible, would I need to wire two neutrals to the outlet or would one do the trick?

 

[P-J]

P-J: On this one, if the RIMS is 1500W, could I use one conventional wall outlet to power both the pump & RIMS by breaking the tab on the hot side of the outlet? That would reduce some of the wiring required and make the build a little cleaner for me. If that is possible, would I need to wire two neutrals to the outlet or would one do the trick?

I'm not sure what you are asking. Break what tab? Please explain a little more.

 

[jeffmeh]

I suspect that he is referring to breaking the tab on a standard, 120v, duplex outlet, so that each receptacle can be powered independently.

 

[exe]

I suspect that he is referring to breaking the tab on a standard, 120v, duplex outlet, so that each receptacle can be powered independently.

Exactly...sorry for not being clear.

 

[P-J]

If that is the case and you are supplying power to each individual outlet, then you also need to supply independent neutrals as well.

P-J

 

[RocketBrewer]

P-J,
I had a couple questions for you, I had asked you at the top of page 29 of this thread about possibly modifying one of your diagrams to include the JSL-73A brewing timer (once again not expecting anything or trying to pressure you). But I was curious. You stated ...

Just a small over view. I spent a lot of time today trying to deveop an image of the JSL-73A timer so that I can include it in a wiring diagram. You might think this is an easy task. Try it and see how you do in handling your drawings.

Was this because you don't think that timer will work in this application or was it my request for one central alarm cancel button that was difficult?
I also noticed that some people use a Main power contactor (usually controlled by a key switch) in their designs but haven't seen one in any of yours that I can remember. Is it just not necessary? I'm by no means questioning your knowledge or designs, just trying to learn as much as I can to figure out if it's something that I should be using in mine.

Once again... Thanks so much for your time

Matt

 

[jeffmeh]

P-J,
I had a couple questions for you, I had asked you at the top of page 29 of this thread about possibly modifying one of your diagrams to include the JSL-73A brewing timer (once again not expecting anything or trying to pressure you). But I was curious. You stated ...

Was this because you don't think that timer will work in this application or was it my request for one central alarm cancel button that was difficult?
I also noticed that some people use a Main power contactor (usually controlled by a key switch) in their designs but haven't seen one in any of yours that I can remember. Is it just not necessary? I'm by no means questioning your knowledge or designs, just trying to learn as much as I can to figure out if it's something that I should be using in mine.

Once again... Thanks so much for your time

Matt

Since P-J seems to be having computer problems, I will be presumptuous and chime in.

I believe his statement around the JSL-73A timer meant that it was difficult to find enough information on the web to be able to determine definitively how to wire it.

His diagrams generally incorporate an e-stop that shunts a very small amount of current to ground, and depends upon a working GFCI to detect that and trip. The advantage here is that power is cut off at the GFCI, so you have no power at your control panel. IMO, if you use this approach, it's worth testing your GFCI before every brew to make sure it is working, as they can fail.

The other approach is to use a switch and contactor to cut off main power in the control panel. That is a fine design also, but bear in mind that even when main power is off you have hot wires at the switch and at the line terminals of the contactor.

It's really personal preference as to which way you want to go, although some treat the issue with religious fervor.

 

[RocketBrewer]

Thanks jeffmeh,
I have received my timer and had a chance to play with it. It seems to be fairly straight forward as to wiring. I believe that P-J may have been having issues with my request to have one reset button for all alarms (if there's some other problem with wiring, hopefully P-J will chime in).

I was also trying to understand why some designs use a main power contactor, and have come to the conclusion that it is just a different way to make the e-stop function (as you explained).

I have the utmost respect for P-J and his designs and feel that his method is the safest by cutting all power to the panel, so that's the way i'll be doing mine.

Thanks again for the input, without guys like you and P-J, some of us would never even attempt to build something like this. I will be starting a build thread soon hopefully.

 

[mrwizard0]

I'll add in about the main power contactor. I actually have both that and the estop that pj designs. I have the main power one so that I can plug in the controller without power being applied to anything. I know it's not necessary but it gives me a warm fuzzy that I won't electrocute myself and that it doesn't fire any of my elements because I accidentally hit the element switch

 

[rgauthier20420]

I'd like to thanks P-J once again for the RIMS diagram he provided me. Wired my panel and all the outlets yesterday and it's working perfectly. A couple snags do to me being so new to everything, but it was pretty Damn easy. Only took about 3 hours. Thanks!

 

[YD_Stretch]

Hello P-J and the Electric Brewing community!

Thanks to everyone for posting SO MUCH information and for allowing for open discussion without turning into name calling. The professionalism of this community always seems to amaze me.

I have been looking for a diagram and parts order list for what I'm trying to accomplish. I have found a couple of diagrams that include a RIMS and a BK, but I wanted to use a dial switch http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=332 to control the boil kettle and keep the cost down by only using one PID.



I liked the diagram because both the RIMS and pump are controlled by the PID. I would need lights for everything to let me know what's on, I'm a very visual person.

I also am a noob to the sourcing of components like the fuses and in-wire housings, wiring blocks, DIN rails, hell, almost everything.

I have a parts list going and have bought a 1000W element in the RIMS tube and a 4500 and 5500 element (which one, to use?) for the BK. The machine shop teacher at the High School is going to help me cut the element hole in my kettle and wire it up.

I have a mini-panel ran in the garage with 30A GFCI breaker ready to go and I can put in any kind of plug the system needs. All I need is some sage-ly advice and a wiring diagram so I don't electrocute myself!

I understand everyone is busy and am happy to wait. Thank you all for reading, I appreciate it. Anybody else with any suggestions, feel free to PM me or comment below.

 

[mrwizard0]

If I read the diagram correctly, the pid doesn't control the pump. The signal from the pid to the ssr is routed through the pump switch, if the pump is off then the element won't fire, if the pump is on then the element will fire when command by the pid. Also, the only 1 pid is required to run both the rims and the bk. for ease, you could add another contactor and have a rims/bk switch which would change the pid output between the 2. For the price of a contactor, some wire and the plug you would have all you need

 

[YD_Stretch]

Thanks mrwizard,

Would I need another thermocouple hooked up to be switched as well for the PID to tell the SSR to go to boil?


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[P-J]

Thanks mrwizard,

Would I need another thermocouple hooked up to be switched as well for the PID to tell the SSR to go to boil?

No. For the boil you set the pid to manual mode.

 

[YD_Stretch]

Thanks for the reply P-J! Do you have an existing diagram you'd recommend I use?

Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[lehr]

PJ,
I was wondering if you had time to help me with one of your drawings?
I have three 4500w 240v elements hlt,mash,boil, I also have a 120v element in my rims tube but I could change it to 240v if it would be better/easier to wire. I would like to use a pid(1ea)on the boil and rims. For the mash and hlt I think I would just like to use a three way switch. I now have a k type thermocouple on the rims tube do I also need one on the boil? I also use my pump on it's own to pump wort to the fermentor.

Thanks Pat

 

[P-J]

PJ,
I was wondering if you had time to help me with one of your drawings?
I have three 4500w 240v elements hlt,mash,boil, I also have a 120v element in my rims tube but I could change it to 240v if it would be better/easier to wire. I would like to use a pid(1ea)on the boil and rims. For the mash and hlt I think I would just like to use a three way switch. I now have a k type thermocouple on the rims tube do I also need one on the boil? I also use my pump on it's own to pump wort to the fermentor.

Thanks Pat

Pat,

You do not need a heating element in the mash kettle. Use the pump to recirculate the mash fluid through a heat exchanger.

Here is a diagram that will fit your described needs and as always - click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I hope this helps you.

P-J

 

[lehr]

Thanks PJ,
The reason I have three elements and a rims tube is because I am retrofitting my gas system to electric and I have already welded the fittings to my kegs. Here is a picture of it with temporary wiring until I build a new control panel.

 

[Airplanedoc]

P-J,

You helped me with a wiring diagram a couple years back. I was hoping you could do so again.

I just picked up a new Bodine gearmotor model 48R6BFC1-F3 AC. 115 VAC Application

I have on order the following

1- 3 position DPDT maintained on off on for forward and reverse
2 - lights yellow one each for forward and reverse
1 - E-stop

I couldn't get a attachment or link to work but the diagram for the motor can be found by searching for "bodine diagram 07410295"


Thanks

AD

 

[P-J]

P-J,

You helped me with a wiring diagram a couple years back. I was hoping you could do so again.
I just picked up a new Bodine gearmotor model 48R6BFC1-F3 AC. 115 VAC Application

I have on order the following
1- 3 position DPDT maintained on off on for forward and reverse
2 - lights yellow one each for forward and reverse
1 - E-stop

I couldn't get a attachment or link to work but the diagram for the motor can be found by searching for "bodine diagram 07410295"

Thanks
AD

Ive not been able to link to the motor so that I could get some idea at what you are dealing with. I was able to find and open the wiring "document" you mentioned. It, however, leaves a lot of mind jumping for me to even begin to make a wiring plan. I wish I had more info (clear info) so that I could be of help to you.

As it is now, I'm stuck..

P-J

 

[Airplanedoc]

Ive not been able to link to the motor so that I could get some idea at what you are dealing with. I was able to find and open the wiring "document" you mentioned. It, however, leaves a lot of mind jumping for me to even begin to make a wiring plan. I wish I had more info (clear info) so that I could be of help to you.

As it is now, I'm stuck..

P-J

Below is a link to the motor. I forgot the item description had a 1 where it should have had a i.

http://www.bodine-electric.com/Catalog/48R-FPSAC.asp

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Do you offer a parts list?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[P-J]

Below is a link to the motor. I forgot the item description had a 1 where it should have had a i.

http://www.bodine-electric.com/Catalog/48R-FPSAC.asp

The link does not help me at all. So sorry.

P-J

 

[Airplanedoc]

The link does not help me at all. So sorry.

P-J

Don't feel too bad, I called a buddy of mine who is a industrial electrician and used to work for Bodine Electric, and he said that was the most worthless wiring diagram he had ever seen. He was going to try and get a hold of a former coworker who still works for bodine and get some info from him.

 

[celtic_dude]

Hey

I have a quick ? regarding the contactors. I see in most of the wiring diagrams that 1 PID/SSR is used to control multiple contactors while a switch tells which coil to fire on the contactor. But The PID/SSR is sending 110v to one side of the contactor while the other side still has constant power, so does the contactor allow 110v through when it is selected and the PID/SSR is not sending the other 110v?

 

[jeffmeh]

Hey

I have a quick ? regarding the contactors. I see in most of the wiring diagrams that 1 PID/SSR is used to control multiple contactors while a switch tells which coil to fire on the contactor. But The PID/SSR is sending 110v to one side of the contactor while the other side still has constant power, so does the contactor allow 110v through when it is selected and the PID/SSR is not sending the other 110v?

Typically a double pole, single throw, normally open contactor has both hot lines running through it, so that when you have the switch to the contactor coil open (off), you know the element has no power going to it from either leg, and it is truly off. Because SSRs can fail closed (on), and typically leak some current, the contactor is an important safety feature, IMO.

So yes, when the switch to the contactor coil is on, and the contactor is closed, you always have a hot line to the element, and the other hot line going through the SSR will be hot, or not, depending upon whether the PID has signaled the SSR to close the circuit.

 

[P-J]

Don't feel too bad, I called a buddy of mine who is a industrial electrician and used to work for Bodine Electric, and he said that was the most worthless wiring diagram he had ever seen. He was going to try and get a hold of a former coworker who still works for bodine and get some info from him.

AD,

I struggled like hell today trying to come up wih a workable diagram for you. I think I have it worked out. The real problem was the sketchy info provided about the motor by the maker (vendor). I did not throw away any of my time today but spent about 6 hours trying to cypher the info they provided. Good grief-!

Take as look at this and see if it might help you.

______________________________________________________________

The switch I used in the diagram is from Auber Instruments and is the SW3 (center off) unit with 4 added N/O modules added. (Total of 3 decks - 2 each)

If you plan on going this route and need more info - Please let me know..

Wishing you the absolute best.

P-J

 

[P-J]

Hey

I have a quick ? regarding the contactors. I see in most of the wiring diagrams that 1 PID/SSR is used to control multiple contactors while a switch tells which coil to fire on the contactor. But The PID/SSR is sending 110v to one side of the contactor while the other side still has constant power, so does the contactor allow 110v through when it is selected and the PID/SSR is not sending the other 110v?

Please link a diagram and explain a little more about your concerns..

I'd be glad to help.

P-J