List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

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MI_Dogman said:
Whoa! I didn't Mean to quote all of them. But that second one is what I am looking for. Thank you my friend!
Click to expand...

You are welcome. The second one was edited from the third from the bottom in your post. I should have put a notation in the drawing that it was edited from PJ's original. I needed to work on my GIMP foo.

Edit: Added note to second diagram in previous post that it was modified from PJ's original.

Brew on :mug:
 
Roger that. It is exactly what I am looking for. Are those SSR's between the PID and switch? Sorry if it's a basic question. I just want to make sure I wore everything right!
 
MI_Dogman said:
Roger that. It is exactly what I am looking for. Are those SSR's between the PID and switch? Sorry if it's a basic question. I just want to make sure I wore everything right!
Click to expand...

Yes, those are SSR's. Instead of just blocks, P-J used block diagrams of SSR's that show the internal circuitry of an SSR.

Brew on :mug:
 
doug293cz said:
Yes, those are SSR's. Instead of just blocks, P-J used block diagrams of SSR's that show the internal circuitry of an SSR.



Brew on :mug:
Click to expand...


I just ordered everything for the panel! What size wire, for which, would you suggest.

I can't wait to get this build going! Still waiting on the Kettles from Colorado Brewing Supply. But everything else is lining up!
 
First, I would like to thank P-J and all the others for all their hard work.
I finally finished reading this entire thread and have a question to ask before my brain trips its GFCI...

I'm planning on building a RIMS with two pumps, one PID (SYL-2352), with 1500W or less element (120V) and fancy illuminated switches.
Hey, I'm a retired Air Traffic Controller, and after spending the better part of my adult life in a dark room without any windows, I've grown accustomed to fancy illuminated switches.

Anyway, I like P-J's "Auberin-wiring1-SYL-2352-basic3a-RIMS" diagram. I believe that was the one he made for SweetCell.

In the diagram the R30A mini relay has the coil wired to the "heat" switch and RIMS element (left side of relay).
The right side is wired to the RIMS element and the SSR.

Looking at the photo of the R30A relay, the connections on the right are COMM, NO and NC.

Is the RIMS and SSR wires connected to "N Open" or "N Closed" position along with the COM position?

P-J, hang in there. I may not be as old as you but I'm pretty close behind.
So don't make any sudden stops.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
I'm not fast anymore...I'm now half-fast!


Mini Relay R30A small.jpg



Auber R30A mini relay
Auber R30A Mini Relay.jpg
 
Brownbeak said:
First, I would like to thank P-J and all the others for all their hard work.
I finally finished reading this entire thread and have a question to ask before my brain trips its GFCI...

I'm planning on building a RIMS with two pumps, one PID (SYL-2352), with 1500W or less element (120V) and fancy illuminated switches.
Hey, I'm a retired Air Traffic Controller, and after spending the better part of my adult life in a dark room without any windows, I've grown accustomed to fancy illuminated switches.

Anyway, I like P-J's "Auberin-wiring1-SYL-2352-basic3a-RIMS" diagram. I believe that was the one he made for SweetCell.

In the diagram the R30A mini relay has the coil wired to the "heat" switch and RIMS element (left side of relay).
The right side is wired to the RIMS element and the SSR.

Looking at the photo of the R30A relay, the connections on the right are COMM, NO and NC.

Is the RIMS and SSR wires connected to "N Open" or "N Closed" position along with the COM position?

P-J, hang in there. I may not be as old as you but I'm pretty close behind.
So don't make any sudden stops.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
I'm not fast anymore...I'm now half-fast!


View attachment 290051



Auber R30A mini relay
View attachment 290052
Click to expand...
You would use the NO contact on the relay (and the switch controlling the relay coil as well.) You want the relay open (no power to the element) until the switch energizes the coil.

Brew on :mug:
 
doug293cz, et al

Thanks for your quick reply.
I have another question.

In "P-J's" diagrams he uses the Auber SW1 switch.
I'm considering using the SW16 switch.

Is the wiring for the SW1 any different than the SW16?

Thanks in advance
 
Brownbeak said:
doug293cz, et al

Thanks for your quick reply.
I have another question.

In "P-J's" diagrams he uses the Auber SW1 switch.
I'm considering using the SW16 switch.

Is the wiring for the SW1 any different than the SW16?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Looks like the SW16 can be easily substituted for the SW1. Contacts appear to be in similar locations.

Brew on :mug:
 
Hey Guys -

I got this 25' inline gfci cable TRC-44720-020 that's 240V, 30A, 10/3 for $143 shipped. After doing more research, apparently there's a TRC-24140-002 that's around $130 shipped off of ebay (new - there are some ones that look used for $80), but then 25' ft of cable would be around another 30.

My dryer is a 4 wire outlet - is there any benefit in trying to return the 10/3 inline one and getting the 10/4 one? I'm planning on running a single 4000w or 5500w element in a kettle. Right now some buddy's are scaring me about burning down my condo with a 5500w element so I might go lower. The reason I'm not doing a spa panel is there's barely any room near my washer/dryer (stacked unit with like 4" of play).

Also - any input on my rough schematic (based off a few from the OP)? It'll be either a 240V or 2x120V setup:

schematic.PNG

Thanks!
 
Hey, I saw this circuit diagram on one of the front pages of this thread and was wondering if P-J or someone had done it for a 15A breaker? If not could someone alter it?

I am assuming that would need a 1500W 120V element or lower? And would change the fuse from 20A to 15A?

If anyone could recommend an element as well would be great. I plan to have this exact setup, but need it to be altered to 15A.

Auberin-wiring1-SYL-2352-basic5-RIMS.jpg
 
You could use a 240v 5500 watt element. That would put out 1375 at 120v, putting you well within your 15 amp circuit. It would also be incredibly low watt density which is always nice
 
Ozarks_Mountain_Brew said:
Hi P-J or any one that knows, what software are you designing these schematics in, I'm doing the same thing in publisher and drawing a strait line or snapping to another is close to impossible
Click to expand...

Look into Inkscape (https://inkscape.org/en/). It is a free vector graphics program that runs on Windows, OS X and Linux. It has a variety of "snap" modes.

Brew on :mug:
 
smart draw works pretty good too, I can lay out a box in 30 minutes but took me 4 hours to draw these freaking lines and keep them strait
this is my 3 wire set up drawn from a perspective of roughly laid out in the box, this is in publisher 2013

one is simplified by joining wires and the other is full wires, one wire to each device, same layout

Power wiring - simplified.jpg


Full_Wiring_Power_grid.jpg
 
Riot said:
You could use a 240v 5500 watt element. That would put out 1375 at 120v, putting you well within your 15 amp circuit. It would also be incredibly low watt density which is always nice
Click to expand...

What would be the advantage of this over 120v 1500 watt, and how would it change the diagram I linked in my original post?
 
CoolDaddy said:
What would be the advantage of this over 120v 1500 watt, and how would it change the diagram I linked in my original post?
Click to expand...

Advantage - Already have the element if you opt to go 240v in the future. Much lower watt-density than the 1500w, so more gentle heating and less chance of any scorching.

Disadvantage - It's a bigger element so you need to factor that in. It only puts out 1375 vs 1500w so slightly less power.

Change to your diagram - zilch.
-Kevin
 
I just ordered a 20 gal Colorado brew system BIAB kettle.
I want to use a BCS 460 controller. Can I use this and simply not add the other two elements?
I just have one element and one pump.
Yes I know its overkill, but I like the format and want it in case I decide to go back to 3V brewing.

If anyone has a similar set up I would be much appreciated for tips.

I have already run the 6/3 wire to the 50A Spa Panel w GFI.

Kenneth-BCS-460-wiring-2-4a.jpg
 
wyowolf said:
I just ordered a 20 gal Colorado brew system BIAB kettle.
I want to use a BCS 460 controller. Can I use this and simply not add the other two elements?
I just have one element and one pump.
Yes I know its overkill, but I like the format and want it in case I decide to go back to 3V brewing.

If anyone has a similar set up I would be much appreciated for tips.

I have already run the 6/3 wire to the 50A Spa Panel w GFI.
Click to expand...

That's way too complex a diagram to start with for a single element, single pump system. You should start with something more like this:

Single elem single pump schem.jpg

Personally, I would put the red hot leg thru the contactor before the SSR, rather than after as shown, but either will work.

Brew on :mug:
 
Yes...thats what i am looking for. Is there any reason the PID BCS cant be interchangeable?


[

QUOTE=doug293cz;7089457]That's way too complex a diagram to start with for a single element, single pump system. You should start with something more like this:

View attachment 302197

Personally, I would put the red hot leg thru the contactor before the SSR, rather than after as shown, but either will work.

Brew on :mug:[/QUOTE]
 
wyowolf said:
Yes...thats what i am looking for. Is there any reason the PID BCS cant be interchangeable?
Click to expand...

You can swap the PID for any controller with a digital output within the voltage range of the SSR input.

Brew on :mug:
 
wyowolf said:
yes...thats what i am looking for. Is there any reason the pid bcs cant be interchangeable?

What are the blue circles on the for?
[

quote=doug293cz;7089457]that's way too complex a diagram to start with for a single element, single pump system. You should start with something more like this:

View attachment 302197

personally, i would put the red hot leg thru the contactor before the ssr, rather than after as shown, but either will work.

Brew on :mug:
Click to expand...
[/quote]
 
chiefwigms said:
Hey Guys -

I got this 25' inline gfci cable TRC-44720-020 that's 240V, 30A, 10/3 for $143 shipped. After doing more research, apparently there's a TRC-24140-002 that's around $130 shipped off of ebay (new - there are some ones that look used for $80), but then 25' ft of cable would be around another 30.

My dryer is a 4 wire outlet - is there any benefit in trying to return the 10/3 inline one and getting the 10/4 one? I'm planning on running a single 4000w or 5500w element in a kettle. Right now some buddy's are scaring me about burning down my condo with a 5500w element so I might go lower. The reason I'm not doing a spa panel is there's barely any room near my washer/dryer (stacked unit with like 4" of play).

Also - any input on my rough schematic (based off a few from the OP)? It'll be either a 240V or 2x120V setup:

View attachment 296337

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Any inputs?
 
chiefwigms said:
Any inputs?
Click to expand...

the second option has a 10 ma trip level for the gfci, which does not meet the requirement of a class a device (trip at 4-6 ma). 4-6 ma trip levels are the levels you see in gfci receptacles in bathrooms, etc. and are the trip levels designated for 'personnel protection'. so the second option would 'work' but if you were caught in a weak ground fault of, say, 9 ma, the gfci device may not operate. at 9 ma, it may be difficult to let go of the energized item you are in contact i.e. you'll sit there getting shocked and can't let go.
 
Gotcha - I went with the 3 wire 240V inline gfci... I was hoping for feedback on the attachment (see below).. after I got the connectors, a buddy said why not redo it so that you only need 2 power inputs instead of 3.

schematic.PNG
 
chiefwigms said:
Gotcha - I went with the 3 wire 240V inline gfci... I was hoping for feedback on the attachment (see below).. after I got the connectors, a buddy said why not redo it so that you only need 2 power inputs instead of 3.

View attachment 302519
Click to expand...

how are you deriving the 120v power for the receptacles? or are you bringing in 120v from a a circuit other than the 'main' 240v?

EDIT: looking closer, they must be separate circuits. is it your intent to use actual receptacles in your setup? or did you simply use the receptacle symbol for convenience on your diagram?

regarding the two sources vs three, i presume you mean a single 120v source and a single 240v source? if combining the 120v sources, you would need a 20 amp circuit and need to program the controller such that only one of the 2000 watt elements can fire at a time. if you want to fire both at once, you would need a 40 amp circuit.

also, you could get by with a cheaper 25 amp ssr on the 2000 watt elements (you don't need 50 watt). no problem with using 50 amp though...
 
itsnotrequired said:
how are you deriving the 120v power for the receptacles? or are you bringing in 120v from a a circuit other than the 'main' 240v?

EDIT: looking closer, they must be separate circuits. is it your intent to use actual receptacles in your setup? or did you simply use the receptacle symbol for convenience on your diagram?

regarding the two sources vs three, i presume you mean a single 120v source and a single 240v source? if combining the 120v sources, you would need a 20 amp circuit and need to program the controller such that only one of the 2000 watt elements can fire at a time. if you want to fire both at once, you would need a 40 amp circuit.

also, you could get by with a cheaper 25 amp ssr on the 2000 watt elements (you don't need 50 watt). no problem with using 50 amp though...
Click to expand...


So I'll be doing a eBIAB setup with either 1 element @ 240V (I'll still need a 120V line to power the controller), or 2 elements @ 120V (separate 20A lines, one still powering the controller)

After I ordered all the parts, my buddy said to try to isolate the 240V setup so that if I was in a 2x120V config, I could still run 120V through that
 
chiefwigms said:
So I'll be doing a eBIAB setup with either 1 element @ 240V (I'll still need a 120V line to power the controller), or 2 elements @ 120V (separate 20A lines, one still powering the controller)

After I ordered all the parts, my buddy said to try to isolate the 240V setup so that if I was in a 2x120V config, I could still run 120V through that
Click to expand...

so if i understand correctly, your diagram shows both options (single 240v element or dual 120v) but in reality, you'll only wire it up one way or the other. if correct, a couple things to keep in mind:

- be careful with two separate supply circuits into a single enclosure. if it is something only you will be using, probably not that big a deal but if someone else might 'mess' with your system, you'll want to put up a warning sign or similar letting folks know there is more than one supply source into the enclosure, with indication where the circuits are sourced from.

- how will you be connecting the source 120v? with receptacles? hard wired? if using cords/receptacles, make sure it is configured such that you can never have exposed, energized blades.
 
itsnotrequired said:
so if i understand correctly, your diagram shows both options (single 240v element or dual 120v) but in reality, you'll only wire it up one way or the other. if correct, a couple things to keep in mind:

- be careful with two separate supply circuits into a single enclosure. if it is something only you will be using, probably not that big a deal but if someone else might 'mess' with your system, you'll want to put up a warning sign or similar letting folks know there is more than one supply source into the enclosure, with indication where the circuits are sourced from.

- how will you be connecting the source 120v? with receptacles? hard wired? if using cords/receptacles, make sure it is configured such that you can never have exposed, energized blades.
Click to expand...

i have neutrik connectors for both sides - the 120V ends are blades, but I'll be putting shrink wrapped crimps on them.
 
I jaw saw this. I dont think it is in this thread I will look for it when I get home and add it
 
I am trying to find a control panel that is not crazy expensive. Here is my plan I am going to convert my keggle to a hlt with a 5500w element continue to use my cooler with manifold as my mash tun and purchase a new boil kettle with another 5500w elements. I also would like to use a pump. I would like to stay around $500 for the controller I found this one in another thread

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1445218286.726823.jpg

I just don't know if this would work for what I am wanting to do. Any idea on a cost for this controller build. I planed on pulling power from my kitchen stove it has a 30a breaker. I don't have a electric dryer plug mine is gas. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Not sure witch of P-Js drawing I would need to use
 
P-J said:
Sorry but I cannot identify the drawing. The image you posted is way too small for me to read the ID info I add to the bottom right of the diagram. You would have been better off linking my original so that I (and others) could see it.

Also -

I think that is backwards.. Dont know as I cannot review the diagram. If what you say is true, I made an error drawing it. Please help me help you.



BTW: 14g wire is not the problem. It is more than enough to carry the current needed for both functions.





P-J
Click to expand...


Pj.. I blew out an SSR ang PID. Can't read the SSR label. Can you see it? Send me the part number?
Thanks
 

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