FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
Yea i emailed them, although hesitantly...its been nearly 2 weeks and they havent sent me a bill yet so i was hoping maybe they forgot lolol..but regardless it still needs to get inspected so i want it to be right.
Do you have any load connected to the SSR in question? I know that when I first plugged my controller in without the elements plugged in, the current leakage made my element lights light and appear to be on. I temporary wired a light to the SSR and it worked fine.
You cannot test an SSR for a failure without power on it. It does not behave like a mechanical switch.
-BD
Who's an idiot?
This guys an idiot.
You know what would have been a good idea to test over the last weeks of building this thing?
That i can actually plug two locking plugs in at the same time...turns out i cant because they are too close..
Luckily the solution is pretty simple, right now its 220V-220V-2x120V along the bottom.
So i will just make it 220V-2x120V-220V which should give plenty of space.
I made a similar move... installed my sight glass on my pot. Installed the eyelet to hold the tube so high that the lid would no longer drop fully into the pot - hit the nut on the inside. Still haven't come up with a workaround for that one.
I made a similar move... installed my sight glass on my pot. Installed the eyelet to hold the tube so high that the lid would no longer drop fully into the pot - hit the nut on the inside. Still haven't come up with a workaround for that one.
It's hard to not overlook small details when doing a build like this.
How will you remedy this with holes already drilled in the panel?
I made a similar move... installed my sight glass on my pot. Installed the eyelet to hold the tube so high that the lid would no longer drop fully into the pot - hit the nut on the inside. Still haven't come up with a workaround for that one.
so the nut fits in the slot nice and tight........
oh god, i was totally thinking about doing my eye bolts tonight and didnt think of this...you probably just saved me from making the same mistake! Thanks!
On a related note, do you guys seal the eye bolt in any fashion? With some silicone on the outside or anything? To keep it from leaking? Or do you just not fill above the bolt?
On a related note, do you guys seal the eye bolt in any fashion?
So you all just passed this one up here???
I'm ashamed of you all.
Yer slippin.
I took a piece of 1/2" plywood... spray painted it flat black and screwed that to my wall... then screwed the control panel ,plug and breaker to it... its not the easiest pic to see it but you can zoom... I then added a second piece of plywood for my fermentor control panel. this is not the cleanest setup but it spreads the load on the wall out and makes it easier to patch up later as well as take it down to change or add stuff and be able to put it back easily..Could use some input from you guys!
So my box is a Bud industries SNB style box, it comes with a mounting bracket that i have bolted onto the box.
The problem comes on the other end..what the hell do i use to attach this thing to the sheetrock on my wall?
I got some 1/4" toggle anchors, but the actual screw head itself BARELY fits over the hole in the bracket..if i angle it at all the head slips right through the hole. My other thought is just using a big lag screw because of the giant head, but being 8.5" between hinges i am only going to be able to get one into a stud.
The box itself is just over 15#, not counting any weight from power cables and element cords pulling down..so i am giving a big margin and just saying 20# a relative lightweight when it comes to mounting compared to say a TV...finding anchors that hold that isnt a problem, the problem is that they all use tiny #6 or #8 screws which arent even close to the size of the hole in the bracket. Also i'd like a solution thats re-usable..if for whatever reason i have to take my box down i hate the idea of having to buy more toggle wings as they fall behind the wall.
What do you think if i used one lag screw into drywall and the other into a stud?
Another option is to go get a 1/4" flange bolt or something that should be able to screw into my toggle anchors?
I took a piece of 1/2" plywood... spray painted it flat black and screwed that to my wall... then screwed the control panel ,plug and breaker to it... its not the easiest pic to see it but you can zoom... I then added a second piece of plywood for my fermentor control panel. this is not the cleanest setup but it spreads the load on the wall out and makes it easier to patch up later as well as take it down to change or add stuff and be able to put it back easily..
you could always just use washers to make your toggle screw heads bigger too...
Looks like what I'm planning on doing, so I'm subscribing. It doesn't look like your spreadsheet is available - could you link it again?
WOO! more electric brewers in the yamhill / washington county! HOLLA! haha
Glad to see! and yeah, one more brew day or two with fiddling with the buttons and you'll be set!
Awesome!
My new setup is nearly identical to yours and will be firing it up for the first time next weekend. I never even thought about the deadspace under the FB creating an issue for a 5 gallon mash...
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