Kill-A-Watt Brewery Build Compilation

[beerocd]

You know if you stare at it a little bit, you do see at least two unique features. The collar around the top is completely removed except for the handles. And underneath the skirt is notched to allow drains to come straight out the front without raising the kettles. All the pneumatic tires swivel too.
So anyone who puts 3 kettles on a rolling table will get sued by this guy?

 

[IrregularPulse]

So anyone who puts 3 kettles on a rolling table will get sued by this guy?

Nope, patent is "Pending", he doesn't have it yet

 

[The Pol]

The last three shipments arrived, I am REALLY surprised at how small the BCS is, I mean, I can fit it in my back pocket. You could hide this thing almost anywhere.

I will be doing some building and photo logging of it the next couple days. Time for some fresh roasted coffee and to start making the wiring plan!

 

[StoutFan]

Awesome is the only thing coming to mind! Is this one going to BYO also?

 

[The Pol]

Awesome is the only thing coming to mind! Is this one going to BYO also?

Meh, I dunno... I sort of doubt it actually. Maybe once is enough for one brewer.

 

[eccsynd]

Looking forward to seeing the wiring come together. Any BCS questions, just shoot.

 

[The Pol]

Looking forward to seeing the wiring come together. Any BCS questions, just shoot.

THE PLAN:

Finish the physical and mechanical stuff today (casters, pumps, couple valves, etc)

Tomorrow I will mount all of the electrical and begin-finish wiring

Monday, tie up any loose ends and turn on the power!!

A few pics to come here!

Pumps complete with 4" BCS temp probes.

RIMS complete with 6" BCS temp probe.

 

[wyzazz]

I get a woody just looking at all of that stainless steel!

 

[The Pol]

I get a woody just looking at all of that stainless steel!

So do I, so do I... wifey is getting worn out

 

[The Pol]

Color me stupid, but um... I am completely lost as to how to get my BCS linked to my home network and then get the control screen up on my PC.

Ummm... I am reading the WIKI, and that is not helping me either.

 

[P-Lay]

Hi there. I also saw your post over at the ecc website. I do not own a BCS, but I'm planning on it in the future. I'm not sure how much help I can be, but here are some suggestions. Do you have the BCS wired into your router? Or do you have some type of wireless access point connected to it? You'll need to know it's IP address that it pulled from your router to log in to it. You should be able to log into it just like you do your home router. If you can explain a little bit about your home network, maybe I can provide more help.

 

[The Pol]

Hi there. I also saw your post over at the ecc website. I do not own a BCS, but I'm planning on it in the future. I'm not sure how much help I can be, but here are some suggestions. Do you have the BCS wired into your router? Or do you have some type of wireless access point connected to it? You'll need to know it's IP address that it pulled from your router to log in to it. You should be able to log into it just like you do your home router. If you can explain a little bit about your home network, maybe I can provide more help.

This is histerically frustrating. I cannot log into my router. I have the IP address, I place it in my URL bar... nothing. It wont connect to it. So, that is worthless.

Apparently I need a wireless bridge, and I dont know what I need there, what type with work with the BCS and my home network etc... so I am sunk there.

Basically, I cant do anything... it would help if I could actually log into my router, but I cant even do that.

Stole a complete day (one of only 8 I have this month) at home away from the family today, I feel really bad about that, I wouldnt feel so bad if I had actually accomplished something.

 

[eccsynd]

First thing to do is connect your BCS with an Ethernet cable to your home network (router), and then power up the BCS (in that order). You should see the orange led in the BCS's Ethernet connector light up, and then the green led start blinking to show activity.

Your router will assign your BCS an ip address, similar to every other computer on your network. What you need to do is find that IP address so that you can type it into your browser to bring up the BCS. For example, if your router gives the BCS an ip address of 192.168.0.10, then in Firefox you type http://192.168.0.10 into the url bar, and the BCS's control screen will pop right up.

But, we have to be able to find the BCS on the network. I'm sure there is someone out there that could write a quick utility that would scan your home network for the BCS (please PM me if interested!), but currently no such utility exists. The easiest way to find that IP address is to log into your router, where it keeps a table of connected devices, along with their IP addresses. You can usually log onto your router by typing http://192.168.0.1 which will bring up the router's configuration page. Look for the BCS, as noted by the MAC address printed on the bottom of the unit.

Alternatively, you can connect the BCS directly to your computer to bypass all of the network stuff, in which case it always assigns itself a known address. But in that case you would not be able to access it from other computers on the network, which is IMHO one of the coolest features of the BCS.

Some more info:
http://www.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Can't_Connect_to_the_BCS

 

[The Pol]

First thing to do is connect your BCS with an Ethernet cable to your home network (router), and then power up the BCS (in that order). You should see the orange led in the BCS's Ethernet connector light up, and then the green led start blinking to show activity.

Your router will assign your BCS an ip address, similar to every other computer on your network. What you need to do is find that IP address so that you can type it into your browser to bring up the BCS. For example, if your router gives the BCS an ip address of 192.168.0.10, then in Firefox you type http://192.168.0.10 into the url bar, and the BCS's control screen will pop right up.

But, we have to be able to find the BCS on the network. I'm sure there is someone out there that could write a quick utility that would scan your home network for the BCS (please PM me if interested!), but currently no such utility exists. The easiest way to find that IP address is to log into your router, where it keeps a table of connected devices, along with their IP addresses. You can usually log onto your router by typing http://192.168.0.1 which will bring up the router's configuration page. Look for the BCS, as noted by the MAC address printed on the bottom of the unit.


Alternatively, you can connect the BCS directly to your computer to bypass all of the network stuff, in which case it always assigns itself a known address. But in that case you would not be able to access it from other computers on the network, which is IMHO one of the coolest features of the BCS.

Some more info:
http://www.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Can't_Connect_to_the_BCS

Nope... tried that for the past hour... wont work.

I want to use this wirelessly... so, question, what sort of wireless bridge do I need? I tried searching the BCS forums, but every time I try searching anything over there, it tells me that the thread is too common and I get nothing. So then I googled it, and I got my own thread here LOL

 

[P-Lay]

Sorry to hear that. I know you've probably tried, but sometimes a reboot of the router works wonders. You'll definitely need a wireless bridge to go along with the BCS if you plan on using it wirelessly. Any off-the-shelf wireless bridge should work and connection instructions should come with them. After you hook the BCS up to the wireless bridge and can log into your router, you should be able to see the IP address that it pulled and log in from there.

If you want to be able to program it without a wireless bridge, you can just plug it in to your home router via an ethernet cable and it should pull an IP for you to log in to.

I know you're quitting for the day, just hope this helps a little.



EDIT: eccsynd beat me to it

 

[The Pol]

Sorry to hear that. I know you've probably tried, but sometimes a reboot of the router works wonders. You'll definitely need a wireless bridge to go along with the BCS if you plan on using it wirelessly. Any off-the-shelf wireless bridge should work and connection instructions should come with them. After you hook the BCS up to the wireless bridge and can log into your router, you should be able to see the IP address that it pulled and log in from there.

If you want to be able to program it without a wireless bridge, you can just plug it in to your home router via an ethernet cable and it should pull an IP for you to log in to.

I know you're quitting for the day, just hope this helps a little.

I am taking the fam out for dinner tonight, maybe I will try to get to a store and get a bridge. I know I can plug this into my computer or router, but that isnt my design plan, so I need the bridge anyway.

Now, I dont know why I cannot log into my router, but... well... that isnt happening, so I hope I dont HAVE to.

EDIT: Took your advice... powered down the router, then bam I was able to log in. Then I saw that my IP address range is from .10 to .19

The BCS is .13

It is working and my test temp probe is functioning.

I will get the wireless bridge tonight

Thanks

I accomplished something now.

 

[eccsynd]

What is the IP address of your computer that is on your network? The IP address of the router is usually xxx.xxx.xxx.1, with the first part matching the other computers on the network. So, for example, if you type in 'ipconfig' into a command prompt of your computer, and see that it's ip address is 192.168.1.200, then try 192.168.1.1 to find the router.

 

[P-Lay]

I am taking the fam out for dinner tonight, maybe I will try to get to a store and get a bridge. I know I can plug this into my computer or router, but that isnt my design plan, so I need the bridge anyway.

Now, I dont know why I cannot log into my router, but... well... that isnt happening, so I hope I dont HAVE to.

EDIT: Took your advice... powered down the router, then bam I was able to log in. Then I saw that my IP address range is from .10 to .19

The BCS is .13

It is working and my test temp probe is functioning.

I will get the wireless bridge tonight

Thanks

I accomplished something now.

Awesome. Congrats. Happy programming

 

[eccsynd]

Cool, glad you're up.

Although I haven't personally tried this one, its available at most big box stores and should work for you:
http://www.netgear.com/Products/PrintServers/WirelessPrintServers/WGPS606.aspx

Here are some threads on the ECC forum with people's recommendations for bridges:
http://forum.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13
http://forum.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=185

Many of us use old cheap routers (like Linksys WRT54G2) with dd-wrt flashed on them. dd-wrt is open source firmware that has great features, including a bridge mode. But it takes some additional steps to update it with the new dd-wrt firmware.

EDIT -- Directions for dd-wrt update:
http://forum.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=22

 

[Baron ken]

I think the easiest way to accomplish finding the BCS is to first connect it directly to your computer, use the default: http://169.254.0.63/
and change the ethernet settings to use a static IP address so you always know what the IP of the BCS-460 is.
I did that, bookmarked the static IP and can always connect quickly.

 

[The Pol]

Cool, glad you're up.

Although I haven't personally tried this one, its available at most big box stores and should work for you:
http://www.netgear.com/Products/PrintServers/WirelessPrintServers/WGPS606.aspx

Here are some threads on the ECC forum with people's recommendations for bridges:
http://forum.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13
http://forum.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=185

Many of us use old cheap routers (like Linksys WRT54G2) with dd-wrt flashed on them. dd-wrt is open source firmware that has great features, including a bridge mode. But it takes some additional steps to update it with the new dd-wrt firmware.

EDIT -- Directions for dd-wrt update:
http://forum.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=22

Hey, thanks.

My other network stuff is all NetGear... so I went with the WGPS606 and some Cat6 cable.

For now I have my BCS rigged up to my router and my RIMS tube temp probe and I am playing with it like this.

The bridge was $62
The Cat6 cable was $3

So, $65 additional, but I am glad I at least have lights blinking now.

Thanks.

 

[The Pol]

I have my first process programmed... running a test on my PC now.


Starts my pumps, runs for 2 minutes to make sure they are primed.

Starts my RIMS elements 1 and 2 to heat strike water.

Pauses all outputs for 5 minutes for Mash In

Restarts pumps, RIMS element 2, BK element 2... runs 60 minutes for the mash...

This is pretty sweet.

 

[wyzazz]

Nice, glad to see you got it working! Too bad I wasn't on earlier, I'm a Network Engineer and could have gotten you up and running with a phone call.

And +1 on assigning it a Static IP Address, you'll save yourself a lot of headache if you do that. Give the BCS an IP outside of your Dynamic IP Range like 192.168.x.20, and the Wireless Bridge one as well like 192.168.x.21. This will assure you can always access it via the IP without trying to figure out what address your router gave to it.

 

[Hermit]

Nice, glad to see you got it working! Too bad I wasn't on earlier, I'm a Network Engineer and could have gotten you up and running with a phone call.

And +1 on assigning it a Static IP Address, you'll save yourself a lot of headache if you do that. Give the BCS an IP outside of your Dynamic IP Range like 192.168.x.20, and the Wireless Bridge one as well like 192.168.x.21. This will assure you can always access it via the IP without trying to figure out what address your router gave to it.

I think Windows has an equivalent of a 'hosts' file in Linux/Unix? Can he just give it a name after he assigns it a static IP? I actually had the CCNP cert at one time before I let it expire but I haven't done much with Windows in years.

 

[The Pol]

Figuring it all out.. this is bad arse my friends. I have my Strike preheat - Mashout process complete. By the time I have the rig finished, the processes will be programmed!

 

[chemman14]

Figuring it all out.. this is bad arse my friends. I have my Strike preheat - Mashout process complete. By the time I have the rig finished, the processes will be programmed!

that is cool, I cant wait to have enough money and time to build a BCS controlled system

 

[TBLbrewer]

This is awsome! This thread is really helping me to focus my brewery design.

 

[wyzazz]

I think Windows has an equivalent of a 'hosts' file in Linux/Unix? Can he just give it a name after he assigns it a static IP? I actually had the CCNP cert at one time before I let it expire but I haven't done much with Windows in years.

Yep, it's in C:\Windows\System32\Drivers\etc\hosts.

 

[The Pol]

Well, I was up last night after the kids went to bed prgramming.

I have one process that automates everything through the sparge. This includes 8 different states.

State 0: PUMPS ON (to handle the pump startup current inrush & to assure prime) This state ends after a 2 minute timed period.

State 1: Strike Water Heating (RIMS Heater 1 and RIMS Heater 2 are ON PID control to heat strike water to appropriate temp) This state ends when the MLT temp reaches its set point.

State 2: MASH IN PAUSE (Heating elements OFF and Pumps ON) This allows me (5) minutes to mash in, this is timer controlled. This state ends at the end of the 5 minute time period.

State 3: 60 Minute Mash (RIMS heater 2 ON, BK heater 2 ON, Pumps ON) This will allow temp controlled heating of both the sparge water in the BK and temp. control of the RIMS heater for the MLT and mash. This state ends after a 60 minute time period>

State 4: MASH OUT PAUSE (ELEMENTS OFF, PUMPS ON) This allows a 2 minute period, timer controlled, to switch connections to begin the mashout/sparge phase of this process. This state ends after 2 minutes.

State 5: MASH OUT (RIMS heater 2 ON, BK heater 2 ON, PUMPS ON) This will operate the Brutus 20 type recirculation sparge with temp control at the BK and at the RIMS heater. This state ends after 20 minutes.

State 6: SPARGE PAUSE (ELEMENTS OFF, MLT PUMP ON) This state allows 2 minutes, timer controlled, to switch connections prior to the "batch" sparge from the MLT to the BK. This state ends after 2 minutes.

State 7: SPARGE (MLT PUMP ON) This state allows for the single batch sparge of the MLT. This state ends after a 20 minute period.

END of Process 0 (60 Minute Mash)

Keep in mind that all of the states that are exited via a timer/alarm, can be exited manually if I choose prior to the timer expiring. This is easy using the state jump button.

 

[The Pol]

Little glimpse of the Kill A Watt virtual control...

 

[StoutFan]

That is just too cool!

 

[ajwillys]

Hehe, in your screenshot you googled "how to take a screenshot". Awesome :fro:

 

[wyzazz]

Lol, Alt+PrtScr. ;0)

 

[jkarp]

Better than seeing "midget porn" in the search box.

 

[Cliff897]

1.) Will you be setting aside your manually actuated sanitary valves for automated valves? Or will you be using the pumps to act as valves ie: when they stop then flow is stopped?


2.) When pumping wort to the fermenter after cooling the wort will you pump through a third pump or will you pump (while boiling) through one of the two March pumps to get it as sanitary as the hot ( gotta be close to 210 - 212 F) wort can get it?

3.) Oxygenating. Will you do this in the fermenter or the BK?
..........(i) About Oxy' a fellow from one of the better known BK and Fermenter companies suggested that it's best not to oxygenate in his BKs, but rather to do that in the fermenter. I didn't ask him why, but I would imagine that it's got to do with not wanting to stir up the trub.

4.) Whirlfloccing: Where will you do it the BK or the Conical (I am assuming this rig has a conical of course I don't recall seeing one)
..........(i) I have whirlfloced a brew as it was going into a second carboy knowing that I was going to rack it off - yet again - to a third carboy for the last (true secondary) ferment. I know from that experience that whirlfloc works just fine in 60 degree F beer. So, given that, why not take advantage of the conical's cone and whirlflock in the conical? One should think it's the natural thing to do.

5.) What's the deal with the Auto Sparger?
..........(i) Does it have a fly arm or just a flow outlet tube?
..........(ii) Are you using it to prevent overflow in the event of a stuck sparge? Or more accurately as a way to only allow recirculated wort in when the float valve calls for it. The rest of the time it'll be dead heading the pumps.

 

[The Pol]

Hehe, in your screenshot you googled "how to take a screenshot". Awesome :fro:

That is hilarious...

Just got back from a shopping spree with the daughter to get some of the small items needed to finish things up in a couple weeks. Thing like 275lb cap. casters, wire protectors, assorted wire terminals, bolts, washers, nuts etc...

 

[The Pol]

1.) Will you be setting aside your manually actuated sanitary valves for automated valves? Or will you be using the pumps to act as valves ie: when they stop then flow is stopped?

I do not plan to automate valves, that would require massive amounts of hard plumbing


2.) When pumping wort to the fermenter after cooling the wort will you pump through a third pump or will you pump (while boiling) through one of the two March pumps to get it as sanitary as the hot ( gotta be close to 210 - 212 F) wort can get it?

The BK pump will pump from the BK to the fermentor, it will be recirculating at the end of the boil and during cooling

3.) Oxygenating. Will you do this in the fermenter or the BK?
..........(i) About Oxy' a fellow from one of the better known BK and Fermenter companies suggested that it's best not to oxygenate in his BKs, but rather to do that in the fermenter. I didn't ask him why, but I would imagine that it's got to do with not wanting to stir up the trub.

I typically aerate in the fermentor

4.) Whirlfloccing: Where will you do it the BK or the Conical (I am assuming this rig has a conical of course I don't recall seeing one)
..........(i) I have whirlfloced a brew as it was going into a second carboy knowing that I was going to rack it off - yet again - to a third carboy for the last (true secondary) ferment. I know from that experience that whirlfloc works just fine in 60 degree F beer. So, given that, why not take advantage of the conical's cone and whirlflock in the conical? One should think it's the natural thing to do.

In the BK, I dont have a conical

5.) What's the deal with the Auto Sparger?
..........(i) Does it have a fly arm or just a flow outlet tube?
..........(ii) Are you using it to prevent overflow in the event of a stuck sparge? Or more accurately as a way to only allow recirculated wort in when the float valve calls for it. The rest of the time it'll be dead heading the pumps.

The autosparge will regulate the flow of sparge/wort from the BK to the MLT during the "sparge" process. This way I can run wort from the MLT at any rate to the BK and allow the BK pump to run full open to the MLT without worrying about pumping too much from the MLT and dry firing my BL element during the "sparge". ALL flow to the MLT will go through the auto sparge device. If you look at the Blichman site, it is simply a float valve with a 1/2" silicone tube outlet to return water/wort to the grain bed gently

I think that covers it

 

[Baron ken]

Well, I was up last night after the kids went to bed prgramming.

I have one process that automates everything through the sparge. This includes 8 different states.

State 0: PUMPS ON (to handle the pump startup current inrush & to assure prime) This state ends after a 2 minute timed period.

State 1: Strike Water Heating (RIMS Heater 1 and RIMS Heater 2 are ON PID control to heat strike water to appropriate temp) This state ends when the MLT temp reaches its set point.

State 2: MASH IN PAUSE (Heating elements OFF and Pumps ON) This allows me (5) minutes to mash in, this is timer controlled. This state ends at the end of the 5 minute time period.

State 3: 60 Minute Mash (RIMS heater 2 ON, BK heater 2 ON, Pumps ON) This will allow temp controlled heating of both the sparge water in the BK and temp. control of the RIMS heater for the MLT and mash. This state ends after a 60 minute time period>

State 4: MASH OUT PAUSE (ELEMENTS OFF, PUMPS ON) This allows a 2 minute period, timer controlled, to switch connections to begin the mashout/sparge phase of this process. This state ends after 2 minutes.

State 5: MASH OUT (RIMS heater 2 ON, BK heater 2 ON, PUMPS ON) This will operate the Brutus 20 type recirculation sparge with temp control at the BK and at the RIMS heater. This state ends after 20 minutes.

State 6: SPARGE PAUSE (ELEMENTS OFF, MLT PUMP ON) This state allows 2 minutes, timer controlled, to switch connections prior to the "batch" sparge from the MLT to the BK. This state ends after 2 minutes.

State 7: SPARGE (MLT PUMP ON) This state allows for the single batch sparge of the MLT. This state ends after a 20 minute period.

END of Process 0 (60 Minute Mash)

Keep in mind that all of the states that are exited via a timer/alarm, can be exited manually if I choose prior to the timer expiring. This is easy using the state jump button.

You don't appear to be utilizing your Web User Inputs (Win0-Win3). You could set Win0 (which could be labeled "Mash in done") for use with State 2 to indicate you are done mashing in. I think it would be easier to press the Win0 button than to select the next state from the dropdown and then press the Jump button.
Also, Win1 could be used to in State 4 to indicate you are done changing hoses.

Unless, of course, you are using your Web Inputs for other purposes.

 

[The Pol]

You don't appear to be utilizing your Web User Inputs (Win0-Win3). You could set Win0 (which could be labeled "Mash in done") for use with State 2 to indicate you are done mashing in. I think it would be easier to press the Win0 button than to select the next state from the dropdown and then press the Jump button.
Also, Win1 could be used to in State 4 to indicate you are done changing hoses.

Unless, of course, you are using your Web Inputs for other purposes.

Good idea, thanks!

 

[The Pol]

You don't appear to be utilizing your Web User Inputs (Win0-Win3). You could set Win0 (which could be labeled "Mash in done") for use with State 2 to indicate you are done mashing in. I think it would be easier to press the Win0 button than to select the next state from the dropdown and then press the Jump button.
Also, Win1 could be used to in State 4 to indicate you are done changing hoses.

Unless, of course, you are using your Web Inputs for other purposes.

I implemented this change, thanks... awesome. This way I can start the next process when I want to, whether it is 1 minute of 6 minutes later!

I love how easy it is to change and tweak processes this way.