Kettle insulation for us BIABers

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Supertrapped

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Can't remember who did this, but I remember it was on here that'd I'd seen it.

Went to Lowe's. Spent $20 on a roll of reflectix insulation. Rolled it out, measured, cut, and cut slits for the handles. I did a double layer. Has a heat resistance of 180. Most of us strike generally at 160ish, so it's all good.

YmRRJtZl.jpg


I tested out this weekend. Heated up the water to about 180, turned off the burner, and let cool to 161. Dropped in the bag and grains, stirred, covered, and slid on the insulation. 60 minute mash. I opened to stir at 20min and 40min mark. The insulation held the mash within 2-3 degrees for the whole period. $20 well spent, I'd say. Cheers.
 
I just got a sleeping bag from the goodwill store and tie a bungee cord around the pot. Not sure how much more/less effective that is, but your looks nicer!
 
That looks great. I just drape an old folded terry towel over the kettle. Mash temps fall maybe 3-4 degrees over the 60 min.
 
I generally wrap my kettle with towels, blankets, jackets, etc. Whatever I have available at the time. On a 35 degree, windy night over a week ago I lost 3 degrees with only one down jacket and a towel wrapped on the kettle.

I would like to find a better solution in case I want to start my propane burner mid mash to keep the temps more constant.
 
I see drops of ~10F/30 minutes with an uninsulated SS mash tun.

Will this survive direct fire?
 
I see drops of ~10F/30 minutes with an uninsulated SS mash tun.

Will this survive direct fire?

I don't think so... I'm going to do the same for my kettle. It will be removable and held on with bungee straps.

I think that's how Gavin C did his... could be wrong though.
 
Thanks, guys. I can't take credit for the idea, but thought I'd share results. Much neater and less "ghetto" than wrapping with a ton of blankets lol. Plus, it does maintain tighter temps.

I see drops of ~10F/30 minutes with an uninsulated SS mash tun.

Will this survive direct fire?
I don't think so. It's max temp is 180 degrees. I think with it double or triple layered, which one roll could easily provide, that you probably wouldn't have to worry about firing it up though. That is the point of putting it on.
 
I have used reflectix insulation for approximately 15-20 brews on my 15-gal electric BIAB kettle with no issues, even when boiling. I just leave it on all the time as it speeds the boiling process. I DO NOT RECOMMEND LEAVING ON REFLECTIX WHEN USING DIRECT-FIRE (i.e., propane burner)

I put two wraps on the kettle and one layer on the lid. May need to re-do the insulation as I lose about 5-6 degrees during a 60-minute mash with a volume of 14-gallons.

In retrospect, I should make it removable so that my wort chills faster after flameout.
 
Is that some kind of weight on top that the reflectix is wrapped around?

No just the handle of the lid poking through. If I was doing this again I would try to do less of a hatchet job with the trimming. The OP's is so much better. I'm quite envious, truth be told.

Bolts help keep it all together. (saw the idea on HBT somewhere)

Bolted ReflectixInsulation bolts.jpg
 
I have been thinking about using Refelctix as I've seen it used several times on here. On their website, they indicate an R-value of 1.1 when it is applied directly against a surface:

"No Air Space = No Reflective Insulation Benefit
(An R-1.1 is provided from the product itself for the Reflective/Double Bubble material.)"

http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepage.asp?PageIndex=730#WhatisanR-value?

This wouldn't buy you much if correct.
 
I have been thinking about using Refelctix as I've seen it used several times on here. On their website, they indicate an R-value of 1.1 when it is applied directly against a surface:

"No Air Space = No Reflective Insulation Benefit
(An R-1.1 is provided from the product itself for the Reflective/Double Bubble material.)"

http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepage.asp?PageIndex=730#WhatisanR-value?

This wouldn't buy you much if correct.
I can say that in testing this on my last batch, which was Saturday, it dropped about 2-3 during that 60min mash time compared to 5-10 degrees temp loss and having to refire the propane blaster before to bring back the temp. I say the initial investment of $20 is well worth it.

Also, as the roll is pretty large (24 inches x 25 feet), you could easily double or triple layer the insulation with easy and still have plenty of the roll leftover. I double layered mine, as shown in the pic.
 
@Botigol With that value it wouldn't seem to do much

In my experiences with it though it works very well. I often heat my strike water up the night before, let the stove top cool a bit so it won't scorch the material.

Then I button up my pot as shown. When I come back in the morning its usually dropped from 170-175 to 145-150. (About 8-9 hours). not the most energy efficient process I will concede but I can get up, turn the gas on and be doughing in 10 minutes later

Mash temps seem to be stay within 1F from start of the sacc rest to finish as measured with my Thermapen
 
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I've seen similar comments from construction workers and sales people that maintain a layer of air is crucial as well as applying it flat against a surface.

However every brewer that's used it has reported good results. I imagine the small gaps due to applying a rectangle to a cylindrical surface is sufficient to providing a goos r value. Btw I hate the term r value, why don't people use the thermal conductivity...
 
I haven't used reflextic, and probably never will, I've gotten good results (1-2 degrees lost over an hour) with an old fashion technique called "throw some blankets at it."
 
I haven't used reflextic, and probably never will, I've gotten good results (1-2 degrees lost over an hour) with an old fashion technique called "throw some blankets at it."

That's the technique I was using, but still saw plenty loss where I needed to turn the burner on again. It was a pain.
 
That's the technique I was using, but still saw plenty loss where I needed to turn the burner on again. It was a pain.

That's probably going to happen no matter what unless the environment is controlled. For us outside brewers it changes almost daily.
 
I have been thinking about using Refelctix as I've seen it used several times on here. On their website, they indicate an R-value of 1.1 when it is applied directly against a surface:

"No Air Space = No Reflective Insulation Benefit
(An R-1.1 is provided from the product itself for the Reflective/Double Bubble material.)"

http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepage.asp?PageIndex=730#WhatisanR-value?

This wouldn't buy you much if correct.

The installation recommendation (from reflectix themselves) is to make a couple strips that go around the vessel to act as a shim of sorts. On my keg, it seemed there was enough space from the ribbing as well as the velcro I used that it wasn't sitting directly against the surface of the keg.
 
I use the reflectix stuff now, but it would be nice to have something that I could leave on and direct fire. Are there any options out there?
 
I use the reflectix stuff now, but it would be nice to have something that I could leave on and direct fire. Are there any options out there?

Have you looked into chimney insulation?

Another option I just applied to one of my kettles, but haven't brewed with yet, is Temp-Coat 101. It's a paintable ceramic insulation typically used in industrial applications for things like pipe and vessels. I applied it to within 2 inches of the bottom of my kettle to avoid scorching it. It has a relatively high heat tolerance

Preliminary results are that I can heat my water in the same amount of time with a single burner on my stove top as opposed to straddling two burners.
 
Have you looked into chimney insulation?

Another option I just applied to one of my kettles, but haven't brewed with yet, is Temp-Coat 101. It's a paintable ceramic insulation typically used in industrial applications for things like pipe and vessels. I applied it to within 2 inches of the bottom of my kettle to avoid scorching it. It has a relatively high heat tolerance

Preliminary results are that I can heat my water in the same amount of time with a single burner on my stove top as opposed to straddling two burners.

That sounds great. Can you post a picture of it. Would love to see the results.
 
Warning, it's ugly.

I should add, it's supposed to be applied with a spray gun. I'm lazy and have never used a spray gun to apply anything, so I broke out the trusty ole paint brush. Had l taken the time to learn how to use the spray gun it would have been much prettier.
 
Looks great. If you had done the lid in thatch it would have looked like a wee cottage. Nice job. Thanks for sharing. Might have to have a crack at it some time. Probably try on a smaller pot first.

image.jpg
 
I usually keep the burner on low and keep an eye on it and stir every 10-20 minutes. Keep the bag off the bottom and it's no big deal.
 
Another solution is to buy a big cooler bag at BJ's. I use it brewing indoors in winter. It cost about 7$ and fits over a 30qt pot. Keeps temps very stable. If you want to add heat it is easily removed and replaced.
Outdoors I use a double wrap of reflectix, placed in a styrofoam cooler from Omaha Steaks.
I generally don't worry about adding any heat, as the conversion occurs pretty fast, and a couple of degrees makes little difference.
 
Texas, that looks pretty awesome. Let us know once you do a mash and report back the results. I will trust that more than reflectic, as ceramic will not suffer from typical heat applications and if it does it's just going to crack and not go up in flames like normal insulation would.
 
Happened upon this so thought I'd share was my last experience w/ my reflectex (single layer) insulator:

start – grain in @162F, after grain in 154.5
*Added a circular insulator laid on top of mash/water to reduce dead headspace from large kettle
23min in – 151F
33min in – 148F
Flame on for a min or two -> 154F
57min in settled out 152F

Also as was alluded to, don't use active flame w/ the insulator on, it will melt at the bottom quickly.

I'm going to try another couple of wrappings and/or add some spacing between the jacket and kettle as suggested in the thread to hopefully prevent more loss if possible.
 
Next time don't touch it, every time you mess with the mash it allows more heat to escape. Good idea with the headspace minimizer. Do an hour mash and check it at the beggining, stirring thoroughly to make sure the temp your taking is consistent throughout the mash, then check it at the end.

I've always had good results from throwing a sleeping bag over the top and then some blankets.
 
Turns out, at least in the summer, I'm not going to have to insulate my kettle at all. I lost 1 degree over a 45 minute mash Saturday. Good nuff.
 
Turns out, at least in the summer, I'm not going to have to insulate my kettle at all. I lost 1 degree over a 45 minute mash Saturday. Good nuff.

Jealous, I brewed with the club on saturday and forgot my blankets and lost a total of like 15 degrees. I lifted the bag slightly, applied heat, and stirred the crap out of it every 15 minutes and lost about 4-5 degrees each time.
 
Jealous, I brewed with the club on saturday and forgot my blankets and lost a total of like 15 degrees. I lifted the bag slightly, applied heat, and stirred the crap out of it every 15 minutes and lost about 4-5 degrees each time.

85 and sunny helped a lot, I'm sure.
 
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