augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
Hmm guess I might have to try reverse the motor somehow.... I'll find out soon enough. Mill should be here by the 24th
Is appears the hole on the drive side is larger
I thought about that oo but the bearing holes appear to be recessed channels for the bearing to fit from one way only so they dont work there way out... this means I likely cant invert them.. well see when mine comes...Swap the end plates? There are calibration #'s on the outer drive plate, but that's not a big deal....
Maybe I'm missing something idk...
Dang, sorry to hear that but I guess it was to good to be true. Sounds like it wasn't even worth the $102.
It's not exactly a knock off.pretty close though.. There are a lot of brands of Mills and they all share the same basic design... The cereal killer and kegco 2 roll mill are the same mill from everything I've found. It's a very good mill. Been using mine for 4 years.Hey all. I'm building from scratch and a mill is just one of those components. To be honest for years I worked with the JSP non-adjustable to good effect. But the world moves on, and so will I.
I've been looking at MM's, mostly because they're ubiquitous on this site and I've seen some fantastic builds I'd like to make from. I've never seemed to have the need for 3 rollers (probably due to my going so heavy in British pale), and am looking at the Monster Pro 2, coupled to an AAB 180 HP.
That said, people here seem pretty geeked about the Kegco, even if, as it appears to be, it's a knockoff. Do I have it right, the Kegco has bearings, the MM has bushings? How important is that to people in terms of durability, when powering the mill? Is it as important an issue if one is powering head-on (as in couplers and a motor) v. drawing laterally, as with a pulley system?
I, too, would like to stay in touch with the thread over time. Would love to see about "toughness" under working conditions, and hear any comparative perspectives of MM v. these Kegco users. As I have it set right now, my MM would cost $374....
My barley crusher stopped working last night when I went to get ready for a brew I was planning for today. I spent awhile taking it apart and cleaning it which usually get it working before, but not this time.
Anyways, I came across this kegco 3 roller mill and was wondering if I could just repurpose the barley crushers base for it. I'm guessing I would have to open the hole up more and some bolts, I don't see any size listed for what is needed though. Would there be any problem in reusing the barley crusher base?
Optimal gap depends on the depth of the knurling and the type of grain.
On my 2-roller I use .035 for barley and .030 for wheat.
I wouldn't rely on any mill markings for accurately setting the gap end to end.
If you don't have a feeler gauge set a credit card is ~.035 thick...
Cheers!
Trippr, though I think on a 3-roller, I'm partial to 2-rollers. What's yours?
And anyone with the Kegco, do you have any particular thoughts on their two roller? Are those BB-based?
Adjustment of the 3 roller, in my experience, is largely determined by how you mount your mill. I have mine mounted permanently to a cart, and I adjust mine from below the mill. I use "L" shaped feeler gauges which allows me to insert, adjust, etc. from underneath the mill with minimal effort.
Thanks Cyber. I'm having a hard time getting ahold of how you actually do it. (It doesn't help that I've never seen the mill, the MM, any of these). Aren't only the rollers exposed from below? If you don't mind, can't image what you're saying, sorry.
Look @ the pics of the mills, on Monster Brewing Hardware's site, ( link posted earlier).
One roller is moveable, closer or further from the stationary roller.
Also on your thread, the manufacturer replied, on the mill in question.
And if you or augiedoggy are on F B, they have their newest products posted up there.
https://www.facebook.com/MonsterBrewingHardware/
But check with augiedoggy if you have any questions, on any mills, and where they are made and the like......
I know you make the MM and are kind of trolling here with this statement but to answer honestly because its a valid question and point .Anyone know if you can get spare parts for the Kegco Mill?
I bought the Kegco Mill about 3 weeks ago and have just over 50lbs through it already. I built a table and it's bolted to a piece of 1/2" oak ply. I also motorized it. It's driven by a 3/4hp 1725rpm motor with a 10:1 right angle reduction gear box. It's coupled to the mill with a set of Lovejoy couplers. The mill came complete with bearings instead of bushings. I have it set a hair above the .032 mark and it crushes perfect. Does about 10lbs a minute and with everything else being equal, brought my efficiency up to an average of 82% from the low 70's i was getting before. Time will tell how long the rollers last but so far it's been the best investment I've made so far. Only thing better would be a hopper extension for more grain.
Jeramie
I know you make the MM and are kind of trolling here with this statement but to answer honestly because its a valid question and point .
Short answer I guess is yes, you can buy a complete second mill for parts and still come out ahead financially. at least this was true 2 weeks ago when the basic 3 roller mm was over $300 with a hopper and handle. now it depends on the cost of your replacement parts.
I have found the bearing are easy to find from many places by googling the part number on them but unlike bushings they likely will outlive the mill although bushings can be found at many hardware stores... Not sure what else a person would want speaking realistically here... New rollers? Nothing else could wear out right?
I bet replacements rollers from mill companies that offer them sell for more than this mill costs. This needs to be factored in.
Ive never heard of anyone actually ordering replacement parts for their mills here honestly regardless of cost in any mill thread..Honestly there was a lot of mills sent back to the manufacturer for repair in the Barley crusher threads but thats it.
Its one of those points that a person might bring up to argue a point for spending much more but its not something that I think would honestly ever be appreciated by most who are looking to upgrade anyway by the time they might wear one of these out.. like a recent poster who could use his old JSP mill but chooses to buy something more advanced..
This has been beaten to death but it apparently has gone missed by some but to look at the reasoning behind the flip side of this. We are not comparing apples to apples here when comparing any other mill even remotely priced close to this mill. I own another chinese 3 roller mill that shares the same design as this mill but has an inferior hopper and the quality is terrible (although it too has ball bearing and even black carbon steel rollers ironically).
To get the same features on a monster mill for example such as a 1/2" shaft, ball bearings (and POSSIBLY hardened rollers as this aspect is unconfirmed and hearsay either way with the kegco mill,) A person has to spend over $600 for one mill! , and thats a 2 roller mill.
I could buy 4 kegco mills and have them last me 20 years or more and still be ahead with that reasoning. I doubt I'll have to because my older 2 roller CK mill is made the same way by the same manufacturer and appears to have the same type of rollers only smaller they are still as sharp as the new kegco rollers after 3 years of decent use.
Look at all the folks that bought the barley crusher with its lifetime warranty only to replace it with something else anyway because of issues with the bushings and or worn rollers causing it to not pull grain in anymore. Some folks sent thier mill back more than once to be repaired only to slowly realize the mill they paid $50 more for was not as well made or reliable as its cheaper clone and that is the truth as sad as it sounds. If its made well enough you wont need replacement parts short of possible bearing or bushings unless someone does something wrong..
The Pro series heat treated mill is overkill for any home brewer. it's not really necessary. If you do turn pro, it can run up to a 5bbl micro. Save some $$ now, get the MM-2 with half inch shaft, and base/hopper, and then get the big mamma jamma when you go pro.
It is most definitely a 15/32"; there is zero play between the shaft and the 15/32 Lovejoy coupler.
Edit: Pic added.
I do think its unfortunate that someone else copied your hopper design but what I think is more unfortunate is that they have improved the design over the mills they copied and sell a better copy than the original in some cases with better components and for much much less money.Why don't you have a problem with someone here in the US sending my mill to China to have it COPIED, and sold for cheaper than I can produce it here by one of my main dealers?
Seems like you are a real proponent of these Chinese mills. How many have you purchased? You mention at least two in the post above.
The Pro series heat treated mill is overkill for any home brewer. it's not really necessary. If you do turn pro, it can run up to a 5bbl micro. Save some $$ now, get the MM-2 with half inch shaft, and base/hopper, and then get the big mamma jamma when you go pro.
Just trying to figure this out. There's no L-075 in 12mm and the only hub without keyway in 15/32 I'm seeing is L-050, and it is listing at $90! I didn't know you can put a keyed coupling on a keyless shaft like this (that is what I'm seeing, right?)...? That would certainly simplify a couple things, if it's not an issue.
reviews state it works fine in the states even though the sticker says 50hz power[/url]
If you call 20% faster (60/50) a tic.It should only run a tic faster @ 60 Hz.
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