Issues with first all grain attempt (Stone IPA clone)

[ChiBrew]

So I may have gotten a bit in over my head here. I attempted my first all grain brew last night of a Stone IPA clone recipe, using the brew in a bag method. Here are my questions:

1) I took a hydrometer reading before the wort went into the fermenter and it came up .010 lower that what the recipe listed (1.055 instead of 1.065). Is this bad?

2) the recipe includes 2 hops for dry hopping. For an IPA, at which point should I put them in the fermenter?

Thanks for any advice you all might have. I'm a little stressed! I also learned the value of a mash tun from this experience!

 

[plankbr]

Record your FG. Wait a couple of days and take another reading. If the readings are the same then the fermentation is finished. You can then dry hop after that.

 

[ChiBrew]

Record you FG. Wait a couple of days and take another reading. If the readings are the same then the fermentation is finished. You can then dry hop after that.

Could you elaborate? At which point would I read for FG?

 

[plankbr]

1) I took a hydrometer reading before the wort went into the fermenter and it came up .010 lower that what the recipe listed (1.055 instead of 1.065). Is this bad? -- This is not that bad. Your efficiency was just a bit off (maybe too much water, maybe not the right mash temp)

2) the recipe includes 2 hops for dry hopping. For an IPA, at which point should I put them in the fermenter? --You need to pitch the yeast and let the beer ferment out 1st before dry-hopping. So your OG (Original Gravity) was 1.055. Record that. After fermentation, that number will be lower in ~7-10 days. At day 8, take another reading (Specific Gravity), record that. Wait 2 more days and take another reading (another SG). If the 2 SG numbers match, then fermentation is complete. You can now dry hop.

Thanks for any advice you all might have. I'm a little stressed! I also learned the value of a mash tun from this experience!

I put my responses in bold. Hope this helps.

 

[ricksam]

FWIW you really ought to read up and learn more about what you are doing before hand. Not to quell your enthusiasm for asking questions, but during the process of doing your own research to answer these questions you will find many more answers to other questions you are going to have in the near future. Just my .02 worth...

 

[llvllayhem]

What temp was the sample you took before the boil? Anything other than 60 and you would have to adjust the reading.

 

[ChiBrew]

What temp was the sample you took before the boil? Anything other than 60 and you would have to adjust the reading.

I used a refractometer at 70 deg F.

 

[ChiBrew]

Thanks for your comments, I really appreciate it. I absolutely do need to read a lot more before my next batch. Maybe I need a few more partial mash recipes under my belt until I dive into more all grain brewing

 

[llvllayhem]

Did you use the brix measurement or the gravity measurement. It is better to use the brix because gravity in refractometers is not exact.

 

[llvllayhem]

Also, did you crush the grain, or did you have the store crush it. Sometimes the store crush is not ideal, which can lower efficiency.

 

[jrgtr42]

For a first all-grain brew, that;s not bad at all. Part of the "upgrade" from extract to AG is to learn your system and rig and to learn what kind of efficiency and so forth you get from the setup.
What exact temp of strike water it takes to hit your desired mash temp, how it holds those temps, how to sparge, what temps, how long it takes to get to boil, your boil-off rate, how much water you will lose to hop additions and so on and so forth.

 

[billl]

Congrats! You made beer from grain!

AG recipes are written for the author's brew system. You'll have to adapt them to fit your particular conditions if you want to hit the same numbers. Take good notes for each batch and within a few a handful of batches, you'll really be able to dial in your numbers. As long as you can get some consistency in your process, it is really easy to scale recipes.

 

[Queequeg]

I have made the extract of stone IPA from that addition of BYO and although the gravity came out spot on I didn't top up to full volume.

It gives the dry hop time in the intrustions I think it says 3-5 days. I did three I would suggest 5.

Also drink it young and refrigerate it for at least a week for bottling. Really makes the difference.

 

[ChiBrew]

Also, did you crush the grain, or did you have the store crush it. Sometimes the store crush is not ideal, which can lower efficiency.

I don't have a mill so I used the mill at the store. What's the difference? Their equipment seemed to be in good shape.

 

[ChiBrew]

Did you use the brix measurement or the gravity measurement. It is better to use the brix because gravity in refractometers is not exact.

I used gravity.

 

[llvllayhem]

I don't have a LHBS, so when I first started, I ordered online and had them crush my grain. I was confused when my efficiency ended up in the 60s. After purchasing a grain mill and ensuring I had the correct gap set, my efficiency jumped to the mid to high 70s. I know buying a mill is a big step, but it is worth it. In the mean time, consider buying an extra pound or so of base grain to compensate for less then ideal crush.

As for the brix/specific gravity on refractometers, I don't think most are calibrated for wort. So as the specific gravity in wort goes up, the specific gravity scale becomes less accurate. I found it more accurate to use the brix measurement, and then use a program to calculate the correct specific gravity. I usually use either beersmith or, with my phone, brewaide.

 

[billl]

"I don't have a mill so I used the mill at the store. What's the difference? Their equipment seemed to be in good shape."

In theory, nothing. They probably have a nice mill in good condition.

In practice, most brew shops tend to keep the gap in the mill set a bit wider than most of us need to get higher efficiency numbers. They do this to minimize potential stuck sparges, but they are probably more cautious then they need to be.

If you shop locally, you can ask them to run the grain through the mill twice.

 

[BansheeRider]

I don't have a LHBS, so when I first started, I ordered online and had them crush my grain. I was confused when my efficiency ended up in the 60s. After purchasing a grain mill and ensuring I had the correct gap set, my efficiency jumped to the mid to high 70s. I know buying a mill is a big step, but it is worth it. In the mean time, consider buying an extra pound or so of base grain to compensate for less then ideal crush.

As for the brix/specific gravity on refractometers, I don't think most are calibrated for wort. So as the specific gravity in wort goes up, the specific gravity scale becomes less accurate. I found it more accurate to use the brix measurement, and then use a program to calculate the correct specific gravity. I usually use either beersmith or, with my phone, brewaide.

The only time refractometers are not accurate is when you test the beer after fermentation. The alcohol tends to throw off the reading. If you calibrate before each brew day using distilled water the refractometer will be accurate.

 

[ChiBrew]

Thanks for all the advice. I just put her in the secondary. FG is spot on and it tastes good!

 

[TungstenBeer]

Maybe a little off topic... but I am really surprised to see 7/8 cup priming sugar in that recipe.

 

[ChiBrew]

Maybe a little off topic... but I am really surprised to see 7/8 cup priming sugar in that recipe.

Yeah? Any suggestions on how much to use?

 

[ChiBrew]

After 6-7 days in the primary, I racked it into the secondary. I did the dry hop addition at the same time. Is this the right time to dry hop and how long would one dry hop for this recipe. Thanks for any advice you all may have.