I’m still not following. I’m not a user of iSpindel, I only play with them on the bench so far. Don’t you have to do a 90 deg calibration (laying flat)? Wouldn’t that turn the unit off oriented as you’ve shown?
I’m still not following. I’m not a user of iSpindel, I only play with them on the bench so far. Don’t you have to do a 90 deg calibration (laying flat)? Wouldn’t that turn the unit off oriented as you’ve shown?
I thought about it some more ... If you used the tilt switch (or mercury switch) oriented at a 15° angle or so, it would survive high-gravity and 90° calibration, and still turn off when inverted. Maybe this is exactly what some of you meant but I was confused so it's possible others are as well:
View attachment 630008
I would think some sort of hysteresis would need to be introduced however to avoid rapid power-cycling from vibration or movement. A capacitor in parallel with the switch (maybe @day_trippr would suggest one?) would reduce the "bounce".
I like this idea!
So why would you want to use a switch like a tilt switch anyway? Is that so you don't have to open the tube if you have installed a wireless charging receiver? As I understand it, the cap has to come of anyway to sanitize it because dregs collects between the cap and the tube.
One may use a washer between the lid and the tube (like Tilt) to eliminate the need to remove the lid. It also allows assurance that anything sitting on it's cap on your brew shelf is not draining the battery and won't be dead when you need it.
I think wireless charging would be interesting because every time I charge it, the calibration is off and I have to re-calculate the formula based on the angle at 1.000sg and the angle it displays at O.G. and derive from those 2 numbers. This isn't ideal, but is good enough for my purposes.
The calibration is off because the hardware isn't fixed within the tube? I am thinking of fixate it within the tube by pooring a bit of epoxy on the bottom, but that seems a little to drastic. I would like to hear other suggestions.
... I also don't need the exact SG during fermentation, I just want to see if fermentation is on the way or if it is ready, temp and voltage is nice to have. At the end of fermentation I will measure it anyway using the hydrometer or refractometer.
Erik.
I went PCB. Really happy with it. If you go this route you only need to remove diode from gyro, and no silly sled.I think the battery may be necessary once you remove the diode from the Wemos. At any rate, my Wemos does not work at all when plugged into my PC without the battery connected. And when I tried plugging it in while connected to the USB-powered charger, but no battery attached, it kind of went haywire--repeatedly connecting and disconnecting and ultimately crashing my PC. Now that the battery's attached, I at least get a stable COM port connection. I just can't flash.
Following Stand's suggestion, I did try to flash an earlier version of the firmware (5.1.2) and had the same problem.
I think when the new Wemos arrives I will try flashing it before removing the diode and attaching to the battery. Maybe I'll have better luck that way. If not, maybe I'll go the PCB route, as BreeBrew suggests. It wouldn't shock me if I screwed up the soldering somehow -- it was pretty tricky, especially the connections around the temp sensor.
Yeah well, got myself 26 of these so they have to be used firstDid you follow....
View attachment 631357
Well, it would also be an issue of porting the code to the ESP32 (semi-trivial) and then the fun of actually adding functionality for the OLED and BLE. More than an weekend of work I'm sure. Still, would be cool.I feel like someone tried awhile back and gave up. I think it is a size issue.
Post #900 and 905 @shoo looked into doing this but gave up and went with the PCB
It really would streamline things.
Upload the stl files of the sled to https://www.3dhubs.com/manufacture/I plan on pulling one of these together soon... Currently waiting on a few parts to arrive. I have been thinking about the sled. I don't have a 3d printer and don't have access to one locally. I was wondering if anyone has made a sled out of wood or foam. Are there any CAD files for the printed sleds I can grab dimensions off of; I know each plastic cylinder is different but it would be a good starting point.
Thanks everyone for your help!
MT
Just came across this fellow on AliExpress:
View attachment 631864
TTGO WiFi & Bluetooth Battery ESP32 Module ESP32 0.96 inch OLED development tool For Arduino - $8.52
I don't know exactly how big the large petlings are, but this would be an interesting board to adapt to the project. Battery is there, OLED could be used for setup/validation, charging, even BLE. The price is rather high, but if it could fit a petling as-is, that's a lot less work.
Just morning musings ....
Thanks BreeBrew I will check it out!Upload the stl files of the sled to https://www.3dhubs.com/manufacture/
When you have, you get an on screen visualization of it and you can see the dimensions there.
And I took it off allready. It became way to hot to my liking. I mean hot like almost not touchable. And because it was on top of the battery I don't want to take any chances.My latest addition to nu iSpindel, wireless charging. I used this one:
€ 1,72 26%OFF | FONKEN USB Draadloze Opladen Ontvanger Universele Android Micro USB Type-C Qi Draadloze Oplader Lading Pad Module voor Mobiele telefoon
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/4zMrJ61nH
View attachment 633160
what version of the PCB did you use?I went PCB. Really happy with it. If you go this route you only need to remove diode from gyro, and no silly sled.View attachment 631478
The guys name is Filippo here is his Github page https://github.com/cherryphilip74/iSpindel-PCBYeah unless I'm missing something, you can't download the files there. Can't seem to find contact information for that person.
I'm all about throwing a bone to the guy who took the time to create the board (folks often get credits at the fab house when you order them) but 1) I don't want to order from that place and 2) I'd like to make some changes. I suppose I could just make one from scratch, but it's nice to start from something that's been tested to work.
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