I would go with the second option to assure complete mating with the microcontroller...
Cheers!
Cheers!
Thanks! I wasn't sure if the buildup the header spacer, microcontroller header, and the accelerometer would cause a height interfere.I would go with the second option to assure complete mating with the microcontroller...
Cheers!
I am waiting on one more part but I am going to start soldering up the PCB. What orientation should I solder the header to the board and is the black spacer piece needed? The top part of the PCB (where my pointer finger is) will have the wemos and the accelerometer. Thanks for your help.
hi, the photos are already deleted, could you upload them again?Follow Up:
Success Finally! Here is what I had to do.... (May or may not be relevant to anyone else)
Because I had previously been messing around with this thing perhaps I messed up the programming. In trying to figure it out, I tried programming it using the Arduino IDE and was able to load some sample sketches that connected to my network. This convinced me it was an error in programming. So back to the NodeMCU flasher. But first I uploaded a blank sketch with Arduino. (may or may not matter)
Then I flashed the Wemos with the following settings to (hopefully) clear the addresses.
Then, I reprogrammed the Wemos with the iSpindel bin, placing it at the 0x00000, rather than the INTERNAL://NODEMCU like the below image.
hi, the photos are already deleted, could you upload them again?
I use this pdf to assemble my Ispindel:I'm trying to assemble an iSpindel based on the high level circuit diagram found here: http://www.ispindel.de/docs/circuit_diagram_en.html. Even though I have no previous experience with electronics I think I understand most of it. What I don't get is how to connect the TP4056 charging module to the Wemos D1:
1) Where does the orange connector from the TP4056 go and why? Should I solder it to the same place as the removed diode?
2) Why are we using [+Out] and [+In] on the TP4056? To me it sounds more intuitive to use [+Out] and [-Out].
I hope this is the right place for questions like these
I am so happy to have found this. Initially I had the same problem described here, a constant lit blue led on the wemos. After initializing as described and flashing with the latest ispindel firmware 6.0.6 it turns out it solves another problem some of the users have and I had.
I just got the ability to ferment under pressure, and I am wondering if it will impact the iSpindel?
Will it leak under 15psi?
Change readings?
I know those vessels are made for pressure, but not from the outside.
I had the same problem and had decent luck updating through the iSpindel directly. I'm not sure why, but it seemed to work better. I have built 2 and had the problem with both. What version of the ESP8266 did you use? I used the 3.0.0
Thank you. It made me realize my mistake; for some reason the circuit diagram doesn't match the written instructions below it.I use this pdf to assemble my Ispindel:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/28ugwuem1c4u7ki/DIY_Spindel_Anleitung_En.pdf?dl=0
Looking for any troubleshooting ideas on my mostly-built iSpindel, which I cannot get to accept the firmware via NodeMCU flasher.
My build followed the perfboard approach (as shown here: https://www.hobbybrouwen.nl/forum/index.php?topic=33743.0). Pics below. I used the BAT43 diode in place of the 470ohm resistor. I removed the wemos diode by pulling it off with tweezers but left on the LEDs on the gyroscope and Wemos (for now) so I could tell when it is on. The battery seems to charge fine and when I switch it on with the Wemos plugged into my (windows 10) PC, NodeMCU flasher recognizes a new COM port. When I try to flash the firmware (I've tried the latest version and a few earlier ones) the Wemos's blue LED starts flashing, but nothing happens in the software. Just an endless rotating blue circle in the bottom left corner and "Waiting MAC."
I've tried several different USB cords for the Wemos and also checked my soldering as best I can without removing the charger from the perfboard. I specifically tried to make sure I hadn't inadvertently bridged any adjacent soldering points (thus the scuffed up areas of the board). I've also tried it with and without external power from a USB port. I've also uninstalled and reinstalled the CH340 driver. I've tried various baud rates and flash speeds (though probably not every possible combination). The flash location I've used is 0x00000.
I did make an earlier mistake in that I tried numerous times to flash the Wemos before I hooked up the battery, using just the current from the USB to the charger. It wouldn't even recognize the COM port when I tried that approach, and I later learned the battery was essential for flashing. I'm wondering if those prior battery-less attempts somehow damaged the Wemos? I've already ordered a new Wemos from China just in case, but wondering if there's any other troubleshooting I can try while I wait a month for it arrive?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Yes that is correct. I didn't remove anything and my latest build is working just fine.One question: if I chose not to pry off the diode on this Wemos, am I correct that it's safe as long as I don't connect a USB cable to the Wemos while the battery is attached?
Yes, temperature has an impact on gravity readings.Are other people seeing a consistent fluctuation in gravity readings with temperatures? I am slowly lowering temp on a lager, and watching my gravity slowly rise in response even though it's been stable with hydrometer readings.
do a search for silicone and corn starchHey guys.. I am at the final leg of getting this project complete. I have the petling in hand and am planning on making the slide/drawer out of some scrap lumber (white oak). Before I do that I was hoping to get an internal casting of the tube (without destroying it) to use as an initial starting template. I was dimensioning off of STL files but have not been too successful matching up the dimensions to my liking.
Do you guys have any bright ideas for casting the interior of one of these, non-destructively? I was thinking of using alginate.
Thanks,
MT
A wood sled? Well that's a new one! Unless you are doing it for the aesthetics, I'll bet someone here would be wiling to print you a couple. Even hiring it out it would be cheap, they are a quick print. I don't have my printer anymore or else I'd do it for you.Do you guys have any bright ideas for casting the interior of one of these, non-destructively? I was thinking of using alginate.
Hey guys.. I am at the final leg of getting this project complete. I have the petling in hand and am planning on making the slide/drawer out of some scrap lumber (white oak). Before I do that I was hoping to get an internal casting of the tube (without destroying it) to use as an initial starting template. I was dimensioning off of STL files but have not been too successful matching up the dimensions to my liking.
Do you guys have any bright ideas for casting the interior of one of these, non-destructively? I was thinking of using alginate.
Thanks,
MT
... I'll bet someone here would be wiling to print you a couple. Even hiring it out it would be cheap, they are a quick print.
I have a couple I'd be willing to part with...
I'm charging my iSpindel right now with the switch turned off and that seems to work. Would charging it with the switch turned on break it?
I took the plunge and pressurized my iSpindel. It seems to be holding pressure alright because if it was filling with liquid I imagine it would say the gravity was dropping and it isn't.
I'm curious if anyone has figured out a way to create a better seal in the cap? I was thinking maybe Keg Lube?
I used some thread tape, still considering some loctite but waiting until I’ve been using it for a while
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