iSpindle - DIY Electronic Hydrometer

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
While I haven't built the CherryPhilip version, I'm sure that the amount of weight is not important. It's a combination of the amount and it's location that determines the ideal tilt in a 1.000 solution. (Which should be as close to 20° as possible) If you are having a problem, adding weight closer to the lid of the petling will change the tilt in the other direction.

Pictures of your current setup might help diagnose. If you haven't added any weight yet, try temporarily adding some on the top half of the pcb and see how it affects the tilt angle.
 
The Gyros can be spotty. I resorted to testing them before soldering in place.
Gromitdj could you tell me how to test these and the other components before sobering as i am not quite up to speed with electronics more mechanically minded. I do have a test meter.
 
Gromitdj could you tell me how to test these and the other components before sobering as i am not quite up to speed with electronics more mechanically minded. I do have a test meter.

I used this Instructable to wire up a test circuit on a breadboard. If you use one of the pin headers, you can place the gyro on them and get contact on the necessary pins to test without soldering. I hope that makes sense. If not, I can try to set up a test rig to take some pictures. Just let me know.

I believe you should be able to use a Wemos instead of the Arduino Uno, if that is all you have.
 
Anybody had issues with battery life? I find mine runs out pretty fast logging every 15 mins
Which battery did you use for the build? I've got mine set up for logging in 5 minute intervals and would venture to bet that it would last 2 months.

I purchased this Panasonic battery. Which I believe is the battery listed in the iSpindel GitHub.
 
I used this Instructable to wire up a test circuit on a breadboard. If you use one of the pin headers, you can place the gyro on them and get contact on the necessary pins to test without soldering. I hope that makes sense. If not, I can try to set up a test rig to take some pictures. Just let me know.

I believe you should be able to use a Wemos instead of the Arduino Uno, if that is all you have.
Thanks gromitdj I will have a go at it after watching video and will get back to you but it would be much appreciated if you could send some pics
 
Thanks gromitdj I will have a go at it after watching video and will get back to you but it would be much appreciated if you could send some pics

What do you have available for testing? Do you have a breadboard? or just the Wemos D1 Mini and the Gyro? If I know more about what you have for testing, I can see what I can put together.

Can you sacrifice a D1 Mini for testing?
 
What do you have available for testing? Do you have a breadboard? or just the Wemos D1 Mini and the Gyro? If I know more about what you have for testing, I can see what I can put together.

Can you sacrifice a D1 Mini for testing?
I have a breadboard but to be honest have never used it before also have an ardino
 
does anyone have a build instructions using a sled, i have all the components using Mikmonken's PCB. What i am after is a step by step soldering instructions of the various pieces.
 
Just a nice to know fact for people worrying about battery life. I have an iSpindel active now for 30 days. The voltage went only 0.4V down from 4.46V to 4.06V. Firmware version is 6.0.6.

Nice, I have an iSpindel (version 6.2) that dropped from 4.10V to 3.81V since 7 December 2019. It depends on the type of battery of coarse, I use a 8800mAh version.
 
Hi Everyone, just wanted to share my latest video about offset calibration for the iSpindel. Hopefully it will help some of you out. Let me know if I've missed anything of if I can improve on it in any way.


After watching your initial build video, I embarked down the path of building several iSpindel's. I did a lot of reading figuring out the calibration. I finally ended up here: https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/blob/master/docs/Calibration_en.md and ended up using the Easy method

In all of that reading I don't recall seeing anything stating that you had to perform the offset calibration. After performing the Easy Calibration the devices seem to read fine. I ran one through a fermentation with Fermentrack over the last 2 weeks. the iSpindel read correct within a point or two through the entire fermentation.

The iSpindel documentation is a mess. There are bits and pieces everywhere. I could have easily missed the page that stated the offset calibration was required. If I did miss that, can you point me in the direction where that is stated?

Thanks!
 
After watching your initial build video, I embarked down the path of building several iSpindel's. I did a lot of reading figuring out the calibration. I finally ended up here: https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/blob/master/docs/Calibration_en.md and ended up using the Easy method

In all of that reading I don't recall seeing anything stating that you had to perform the offset calibration. After performing the Easy Calibration the devices seem to read fine. I ran one through a fermentation with Fermentrack over the last 2 weeks. the iSpindel read correct within a point or two through the entire fermentation.

The iSpindel documentation is a mess. There are bits and pieces everywhere. I could have easily missed the page that stated the offset calibration was required. If I did miss that, can you point me in the direction where that is stated?

Thanks!

Howdy,

I've been piecing things together as well. As I understand it, there are 3 calibrations required and an optional one around battery voltage. As far the pointing to documentation to support it, I don't know if I will be able to find it ha ha.
The first calibration is the offset one that's in the video. It simply tells the iSpindel what being completely horizontal is. I don't have any supporting docs to point to for this one but someone on Reddit said that it was required, that they missed it, and that there wasn't any documentation for it, lol.

The second is getting to 25 degrees (+- 5 degrees) in water. I found mentions of this in posts on GitHub saying it's mandatory and recently found it in the FAQ. https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/blob/master/docs/FAQ-en.md
The third and final calibration is the page you linked to.

It would be nice if all calibration steps were in one spot, I'm sure the iSpindel community will get there one day.

Another calibration is the battery voltage which I'll cover in a video eventually. It's about taking a multimeter reading and adjusting a number on the config page until they tie in together. There's a formula I found that explains the calculation the iSpindel does but I can't find it this very second.

Another thing I'll be doing is adding temp correction to the iSpindel formula. I have it all worked out in a spreadsheet already. The TEMP variable is available just the same as the TILT variable.

What happens if you miss the first or second calibrations? I'm not sure, but I'm sure there's a reason those calibrations exist. I have seen people say multiple times that if you can't get close the 25 degrees in pure water your readings will be off no matter what you do. I've ran into this issue and have some prototype PCBs I made that I'll be doing a video on soon. My PCBs have a movable battery holder allowing you to move the battery up/down until 25 degrees is achieved.

I actually ran through a full calibration with the easy method and with a real-world fermentation but my firmware had a bug in it, I kept losing my offset calibration, and the values never made sense. I have now fixed my offset calibration, discovered the thing about 25 degrees in water (which I missed the first time), and I will eventually get to the final calibration (again).

I've been confused and I've had to do things multiple times. I spend a large portion of yesterday trying to figure out why one iSpindels' offset calibration didn't save after it was powered off. Turns out you have to press save in the configuration page to create the config file before you can permanently save offset calibration data. You don't get any error on the UI, but errors are firing off in the Arduino serial monitor saying corrupt config file. I am confident the documentation and software will get better but it will be a slow burn. People are donating their time and I'm sure everyone has a day job and a life outside of the internet.

All that being said, if your iSpindel is within a point or two of your hydrometer that sounds pretty good to me. You may not want to open a can of worms and start playing around with it if you are happy with its performance.

If I can help out in any way let me know. I'm sure together we can figure everything out and document the crap out of the iSpindel. I will eventually have a dedicated page on https://www.OpenSourceDistilling.com tieing all things together.
Cheers!
Joey Joe Joe Jr
 
If I can help out in any way let me know. I'm sure together we can figure everything out and document the crap out of the iSpindel. I will eventually have a dedicated page on https://www.OpenSourceDistilling.com tieing all things together.
Cheers!
Joey Joe Joe Jr

Thank you for taking the time to write that detailed reply.

I did read the battery calibration information somewhere. I may go back and try to figure that out. I think my best path forward will be to build a few more iSpindels to experiment with. I can go through all of the additional calibrations on the new ones. I don't want to start making changes to the ones I have now. They do seem to work "good enough."

I read the FAQ you linked to about needing to tare the iSpindle with weights. I skipped over it thinking they were talking about the 3d printed sled version. Some how I rationalized that out as the PCB being heavier than the plastic.

I'm probably throwing a wild card in to the mix with Fermentrack. Their documentation for the iSpindel is completely missing. I had to piece that together from the forum thread here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ewpi-www-replacement-for-raspberry-pi.649303/ The short version is that once I had the tilt settings from the Easy Calibration I plugged them in. Fermentrack then created it's own calculation to figure out what the gravity should be.

I did consider posting my thought process on my site: https://brewingaroundtherealm.com/ and thought better of it. Given the amount of confusion I had at certain points I didn't feel that I had everything quite together enough. At least not yet.

If I feel I need some assistance at some point I will reach out. Please feel free to do the same. Likewise if I have any revelations I will be sure to post them here.

Thanks,

-Dave
 
Thank you for taking the time to write that detailed reply.

I did read the battery calibration information somewhere. I may go back and try to figure that out. I think my best path forward will be to build a few more iSpindels to experiment with. I can go through all of the additional calibrations on the new ones. I don't want to start making changes to the ones I have now. They do seem to work "good enough."

I read the FAQ you linked to about needing to tare the iSpindle with weights. I skipped over it thinking they were talking about the 3d printed sled version. Some how I rationalized that out as the PCB being heavier than the plastic.

I'm probably throwing a wild card in to the mix with Fermentrack. Their documentation for the iSpindel is completely missing. I had to piece that together from the forum thread here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ewpi-www-replacement-for-raspberry-pi.649303/ The short version is that once I had the tilt settings from the Easy Calibration I plugged them in. Fermentrack then created it's own calculation to figure out what the gravity should be.

I did consider posting my thought process on my site: https://brewingaroundtherealm.com/ and thought better of it. Given the amount of confusion I had at certain points I didn't feel that I had everything quite together enough. At least not yet.

If I feel I need some assistance at some point I will reach out. Please feel free to do the same. Likewise if I have any revelations I will be sure to post them here.

Thanks,

-Dave

Thanks, Dave. I feel like we are all flying blind here but there are only so many things that need to get solved. When I get stuck I'll reach out and bounce some ideas off you.

Cheers mate!

Joey Joe Joe Jr.

PS
The battery formula stuff is in the FAQ I linked in my previous reply.
 
I recently built a batch of iSpindels using the CherryPhilips version and found a couple of issues and workarounds.
(I ordered my PCBs using the files from commit 043505c on Dec 15, 2019)

Here is a link to Issue that I opened on GitHub that contains info about the two problems and the workarounds that I made.
https://github.com/cherryphilip74/iSpindel-PCB/issues/19
 
Thank you for taking the time to write that detailed reply.

I did read the battery calibration information somewhere. I may go back and try to figure that out. I think my best path forward will be to build a few more iSpindels to experiment with. I can go through all of the additional calibrations on the new ones. I don't want to start making changes to the ones I have now. They do seem to work "good enough."

I read the FAQ you linked to about needing to tare the iSpindle with weights. I skipped over it thinking they were talking about the 3d printed sled version. Some how I rationalized that out as the PCB being heavier than the plastic.

I'm probably throwing a wild card in to the mix with Fermentrack. Their documentation for the iSpindel is completely missing. I had to piece that together from the forum thread here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ewpi-www-replacement-for-raspberry-pi.649303/ The short version is that once I had the tilt settings from the Easy Calibration I plugged them in. Fermentrack then created it's own calculation to figure out what the gravity should be.

I did consider posting my thought process on my site: https://brewingaroundtherealm.com/ and thought better of it. Given the amount of confusion I had at certain points I didn't feel that I had everything quite together enough. At least not yet.

If I feel I need some assistance at some point I will reach out. Please feel free to do the same. Likewise if I have any revelations I will be sure to post them here.

Thanks,

-Dave
Hi I just built my first iSpindel using your YouTube/Blog guidance and CherryPhilip iSPindel 4.0 PCB. A few things. I have flashed and reflashed with the guidance you posted from this HBT forum but I am having a few different results.
1. After flashing the blue light on the Wemos goes from flashing when configuring to solid on blue (it doesn't go off like most instructions state). Is this indicating an issue? Also, when I reenter the config mode the Wifi, spindel name, Fahrenheit, etc settings are not still set. This is after I followed the HBT instructions for flashing both areas at the specified baud. Is there a way to complete reset the wemos to orignal state and start over with a new flash. I am using the latest firmware 6.2.0 https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/releases/tag/6.2.0.
2. When I plugin the USB C charger I get now red or blue light from the TP4056, is there a reason for this? Is this indicative that there is a error or bad component?
3. How do we download the log file from the Wemos? I thought I saw discussion about USB to a com port but no details how to do this.
4. Are there PCB notes and corrections on GitHub for the PCB 4.0 you and I are using?

Thank you again for trying to organize the fragmented details on how to build and run an iSpindel.
 
Hi I just built my first iSpindel using your YouTube/Blog guidance and CherryPhilip iSPindel 4.0 PCB. A few things. I have flashed and reflashed with the guidance you posted from this HBT forum but I am having a few different results.
1. After flashing the blue light on the Wemos goes from flashing when configuring to solid on blue (it doesn't go off like most instructions state). Is this indicating an issue? Also, when I reenter the config mode the Wifi, spindel name, Fahrenheit, etc settings are not still set. This is after I followed the HBT instructions for flashing both areas at the specified baud. Is there a way to complete reset the wemos to orignal state and start over with a new flash. I am using the latest firmware 6.2.0 https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/releases/tag/6.2.0.
2. When I plugin the USB C charger I get now red or blue light from the TP4056, is there a reason for this? Is this indicative that there is a error or bad component?
3. How do we download the log file from the Wemos? I thought I saw discussion about USB to a com port but no details how to do this.
4. Are there PCB notes and corrections on GitHub for the PCB 4.0 you and I are using?

Thank you again for trying to organize the fragmented details on how to build and run an iSpindel.

Can anyone help point me in the right direction as to what this PuTTY session is indicating the issue might be for my first iSpindel build that was captured on reset of my LOLIN (previously Wemos) D1 Mini V3.1.0 WiFi (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H22CDQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

▒~?▒'KFv▒▒{ll▒▒|▒d▒|

d▒
#|▒▒▒▒s▒#▒c▒▒gn▒dog▒▒▒c8▒lrl;lx▒o▒

d
▒▒
#
'▒|d▒▒#▒▒og▒l▒▒l`▒gl o;Ǜ▒'
c
▒l{▒▒oc▒l▒▒$l▒
l`▒o▒
FW 6.2.0
2.2.1(cfd48f3)
Worker run!
mounting FS... mounted!
reading config file
deserializeJson() failed: NoMemory
scanning for OW device on pin: 5
No devices found!
scanning for OW device on pin: 12
Found device with ROM = 28 7D 7C 16 A8 1 3C BB
Chip = DS18B20
Data = 1 7D 1 55 5 7F A5 81 66 41 CRC=41
Temperature = 23.81 Celsius,
Acc Test Connection ERROR!
offsets not available
Boot-Mode: External System
power-cycle or reset detected, config mode
going to Config Mode
Acc Test Connection ERROR!
*WM: Scan done
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: name
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: sleep
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: vfact
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM:
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM:
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: tempscale
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM:
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM:
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: selAPI
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: token
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: server
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: port
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: channel
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: uri
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: db
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: username
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: password
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: job
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: instance
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM:
*WM: Adding parameter
*WM: POLYN
started Portal
*WM: SET AP STA
*WM:
*WM: Configuring access point...
*WM: iSpindel
Acc Test Connection ERROR!
*WM: AP IP address:
*WM: 192.168.4.1
*WM: HTTP server started
Acc Test Connection ERROR!
Acc Test Connection ERROR!
Acc Test Connection ERROR!
 
I'm buying parts for 10 of these but only plan on keeping 2. PM me if you're interested in one partially/fully assembled.
I am definintely interested in one or maybe even a couple. I'd PM you, but there doesn't seem to be a way for me to do it. Maybe it's because I'm new here.
 
Any one has experienced this problem:

Attached the Gyro to the D1 mini and flash it.
After reboot go to the web server and the angle reported is always 0.0

Tested the Gyro in an Arduino Uno and works OK.
Tested the D1 mini and the pins are ok also.

It happen with 4 sets while we build the iSpindles for the club pals.

My next try will be to connect a logic analyzer to the I2C pins to see why always report 0

I realize this is an old comment, but I'm having the same issue on one of my 3 iSpindel builds and was curious if you ever found the solution? I tried re-soldering joints and checked continuity on the SCL and SDA traces back to the Wemos and the values were the same as one of my working units. I have not checked voltage at the Gyro, but will do that tonight. The LED on the Gyro is on, so I know it is getting power, but it may not be getting the full 5V.
What was your resolution to this issue?
 
I want to replace the controller in my All-in-one brewing system so I can control it remotely like the Grainfather Connect.
There is a commercial version called SmartPID (http://smartpid.com/store/#!/SmartP...one-retrofit-KIT/p/95169469/category=32120508) but not only is it out of stock at this moment, I find it a bit expensive and ugly too.
I believe the original PID system was BrewPi, PWM control was brought in subsequently and is now being managed within the BrewBlox project.

There's also CraftBeerPi which does everything but drink the beer for you. Probably others.
 
Can anyone help point me in the right direction as to what this PuTTY session is indicating the issue might be for my first iSpindel build that was captured on reset of my LOLIN (previously Wemos) D1 Mini V3.1.0 WiFi (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H22CDQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

...
...
...

This really sounds like the issues that I just worked through. Check out the issue I opened on the cherryphilip iSpindel-PCB repository: https://github.com/cherryphilip74/iSpindel-PCB/issues/19
 
This really sounds like the issues that I just worked through. Check out the issue I opened on the cherryphilip iSpindel-PCB repository: https://github.com/cherryphilip74/iSpindel-PCB/issues/19
Hi, I posted in that Github issue you mention and at least one user thinks it is not the same issue as I am using the iSpindle 4.0 PCB and the issue you mention is related to the SMD board. Can you help me understand why you feel this may be a similar issue for the PCB board? I searched the other issues for cherryphilips designs and I don’t see a lot of issues mention for the 4.0 PCB. If it is something related to one of the daughter boards (Wemo, etc) that may be common between the two designs, please let me know and I will investigate further. Also if you know where the schematics for the 4.0 PCB and the smd board are for me to study that would also be helpful. I am tempted to build my second iSpindel to see if it is a one off build or component issue but if there is a quicker way to verify the existing build of sub components that would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
 
I am definintely interested in one or maybe even a couple. I'd PM you, but there doesn't seem to be a way for me to do it. Maybe it's because I'm new here.

I am definintely interested in one or maybe even a couple. I'd PM you, but there doesn't seem to be a way for me to do it. Maybe it's because I'm new here.

I'm not most experienced on this forum either. It turns out PM wasn't really the right term to use, this forum calls them conversations. No worries, either way I will let you know when I have all the parts and once the 8th that I don't want are gone they're gone. I think I'm waiting on one more part from China. Thank you.
 
I realize this is an old comment, but I'm having the same issue on one of my 3 iSpindel builds and was curious if you ever found the solution? I tried re-soldering joints and checked continuity on the SCL and SDA traces back to the Wemos and the values were the same as one of my working units. I have not checked voltage at the Gyro, but will do that tonight. The LED on the Gyro is on, so I know it is getting power, but it may not be getting the full 5V.
What was your resolution to this issue?
Just following up here, but after much testing and comparing voltages/continuity on just about every point of the bad gyro board to a known good one, I couldn't find any discrepancies. I eventually ordered new gyro boards to replace the two bad ones and they are working just fine. I guess you should order some percentage of spare units when you purchase the gyro boards. Seems to be a common problem that some boards just don't work out of the box.
 
Hey All! I didn't notice another home brew forum had a thread going about iSpindels. Granted I'm in Australia so that's generally where I post however it seems the general issues people have are the same.

I've helped build tonnes of iSpindels. Personally I like the Cherry Philip 3.x boards. Purely because they wedge into the Petling really well, versus the v4 or full size boards which have less calibration capabilities. I personally never liked messing around with tyre weights or sliding weighed materials up or down the PCB to get the angle I want. With the 3.x boards, you do need to trim the pins of the components and gently tap the bottom of the Petling against a hard surface, this coaxes the PCB into the Petling and actually wedges it into place. It's easy enough to use a dab of glue to set the PCB calibration easy enough.

I've noticed people use all manner of batteries, generally Cherry Philip uses 48g LG or NCR (Panasonic) Li-Ions. I also like that the micro-USB header faces up on the 3.x boards, if I need to debug or flash (not OTA) I can still do it via a computer without having to remove the board. You should be getting 4+ weeks from a 3,400mAh battery with 15min reporting intervals. The only reason you wouldn't is generally battery charge, size or quality.

Regarding gyros, I've had batches of 100 turn up where I've thrown away about 40 of them. It has taken me ages however I have found a decent seller of gyros where I might have 1-2 which are DOA, it's not worth following this up, I just accept it. Thankfully with the 6.2.0 release, you can actually set calibration offsets so if you're not within 5 degrees of 0-90 with your gyro. Now if your gyro is a little out, maybe 85-10, you can just complete the calibration offset to ensure you get the full 0-90 range which greatly helps with calibration. If you're out by 5-10 degrees, then you may never get the "reported" angle whilst still being able to achieve the "real" angle.

There is an SMD board in the works, the current design does have some issues which Cherry Philip notes. It'll be good to see when it's released so people can order semi-assembled boards. It just makes it much easier to source 3-4 parts versus 10 parts.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top