Inkbird IPB-16 PID Controller Inquiry

[augiedoggy]

I just got one of these units.

Anyone know why my temp probe reading would oscillate with a 2 degree Fahrenheit difference (eg 89 degrees, then 91 degrees, and back to 89 degrees every second or so). I’ve used the temp probe that came with the unit and a second PT100 probe from Auber. Anything come to mind that I should look at? I’m wondering if it is the audio connector port? Wiring to the PID controller, etc? I’m not an electrical engineer, so anything would help.

Cheers
M

my guess is if its not the probe its the way the pid works... perhaps theres some filter setting you can adjust for this but it may just be related to the logic and design used in this economical pid design.

 

[enormous13]

I know some guys, like Bobby, were able to add a switch to the "alarm" outlet so that it could be used for a pump. Anyone think it'd be possible to ditch the 3.5mm jack thermo and swap it out for something like the Auber PT100 RTD?

It's no Auber EZboil, but the price point they're offering this thing at is astounding, for a controller ready to go out of the box.

 

[Metzen]

I know some guys, like Bobby, were able to add a switch to the "alarm" outlet so that it could be used for a pump. Anyone think it'd be possible to ditch the 3.5mm jack thermo and swap it out for something like the Auber PT100 RTD?

It's no Auber EZboil, but the price point they're offering this thing at is astounding, for a controller ready to go out of the box.

The more I play with my unit to try to fix the temp reading issue I’m facing, the more I think it is a bad 3.5mm jack. When temps stabilize, I can easily throw it back into oscillation by just touching or rotating the probe in the jack.

I see there is a small board attached to the back of the jack (instead of just the leads on most of the standard/cheap panel mount ports). Does this do anything aside from provide a connector for the ribbon that goes to the board?

If I were to replace this port, I see TC+ TC- and B pins. Which wire from the PT100 probe goes to which pin?

 

[enormous13]

The more I play with my unit to try to fix the temp reading issue I’m facing, the more I think it is a bad 3.5mm jack. When temps stabilize, I can easily throw it back into oscillation by just touching or rotating the probe in the jack.

I see there is a small board attached to the back of the jack (instead of just the leads on most of the standard/cheap panel mount ports). Does this do anything aside from provide a connector for the ribbon that goes to the board?

If I were to replace this port, I see TC+ TC- and B pins. Which wire from the PT100 probe goes to which pin?

Oh man, I honestly have no idea. I haven't wired a controller like these, so hopefully someone else can chime in here.

 

[augiedoggy]

I know some guys, like Bobby, were able to add a switch to the "alarm" outlet so that it could be used for a pump. Anyone think it'd be possible to ditch the 3.5mm jack thermo and swap it out for something like the Auber PT100 RTD?

It's no Auber EZboil, but the price point they're offering this thing at is astounding, for a controller ready to go out of the box.

You can totally use any generic rtd like auber sells even with the jack which is better than the aviation connector imo.

IN fact if you just take the time to actually go through THIS thread youll see its already been done with pics in post #5. The $12 ebay rtds are the same ones auber sells just with a different connector.

 

[augiedoggy]

The more I play with my unit to try to fix the temp reading issue I’m facing, the more I think it is a bad 3.5mm jack. When temps stabilize, I can easily throw it back into oscillation by just touching or rotating the probe in the jack.

I see there is a small board attached to the back of the jack (instead of just the leads on most of the standard/cheap panel mount ports). Does this do anything aside from provide a connector for the ribbon that goes to the board?

If I were to replace this port, I see TC+ TC- and B pins. Which wire from the PT100 probe goes to which pin?

post #53 shows which like colored wires go where..

 

[Metzen]

post #53 shows which like colored wires go where..

Thanks. I’m comfortable with the wiring of the probe. I just don’t know how the wires translate into the pins on the backside of the sensor jack inside the box. In other words, I don’t know which pins correspond to ground, left and right.

 

[enormous13]

You can totally use any generic rtd like auber sells even with the jack which is better than the aviation connector imo.

IN fact if you just take the time to actually go through THIS thread youll see its already been done with pics in post #5. The $12 ebay rtds are the same ones auber sells just with a different connector.

I️ did read the thread and nothing addresses the FULL swap I’m talking about. What you’re referencing is some audio jack adapter, in Post 53, not Post 5.

 

[augiedoggy]

I️ did read the thread and nothing addresses the FULL swap I’m talking about. What you’re referencing is some audio jack adapter, in Post 53, not Post 5.

Yeah as you can see I meant post 53 there are two pins that are labeled the same (TC) those are the two like colored wires and the single different wire is the other. (B) the comment in post 53 explains the + and - are L and R. I'm not sure what other info your looking for here.

Its not an audio jack its a 3.5mm 3 pin jack they are used for all sorts of things and I think you know what its for here. just like the 3 pin "aviation" connector auber uses isnt just for planes..

Ff you wire it wrong it just wont work until you rewire it..

 

[highland_brewer]

The issue is the wires are not making good connection in the plastic connector that connects to the PCB. I had the same issue. Don't try to pull the connector loose because there are no pins that hold it on you may try wiggling the wires around the connector to make sure they're seated in really well. Or you could take them out of the connector and solder them directly if you're brave. The reason I say don't pull on the plastic connectors is because I pulled on mine and ripped the wires out and then wound up having to solder the wires to the board if you don't feel comfortable doing any of that I would just send the unit back from wherever you got it. I got mine from Brewhardware and I spoke to Bobby he would have taken it back. I am going to mod it anyways and that will be voiding the warranty by doing that so I wasn't too worried about it. I may replace the connector with either a mini XLR in the future or just a regular RTD probe connector.

 

[enormous13]

Hopefully, someone could end up selling these modified units (pump switch, upgraded probe, 20 amp capacity, etc.), for those of us not so electronically inclined.

 

[Bzart]

Hopefully, someone could end up selling these modified units (pump switch, upgraded probe, 20 amp capacity, etc.), for those of us not so electronically inclined.

Seconded!

 

[speckledhen]

I just used mine for the first time yesterday. I didn’t know that bobby was selling a modified version or else I would’ve bought it from him. That aside, is it safe to assume that the temperature reading is accurate? I was showing 4 degrees lower on my kettle thermometer than on the inkbird. I also checked with a CDN temp probe and it matched the kettle thermometer. I ran the auto tune a few times and it didn’t change. Comments or experience? Thanks

 

[JDXX1971]

Mine was spot on with the standard probe, as checked with my thermo pen. I changed the probe for one of the ebay 1/2" threaded ones which reads two degrees low according to the thermo pen.

 

[Alt]

Mine was spot on with the standard probe, as checked with my thermo pen. I changed the probe for one of the ebay 1/2" threaded ones which reads two degrees low according to the thermo pen.

Did you change the sensor calibration setting after switching to the ebay probe? I had to. Then again my solder joints aren't perfect and needs some sort of collar between the cable and the sleeve of the connector that I used - too loose.

 

[JDXX1971]

Did you change the sensor calibration setting after switching to the ebay probe? I had to. Then again my solder joints aren't perfect and needs some sort of collar between the cable and the sleeve of the connector that I used - too loose.

I did not, I was actually wondering if the controller had an adjustment for the probe. I have not had time to look, been too busy brewing with it. I just compensated by adjusting the set temp down 2 degrees. Has been spot on for three brews. Yeah my connection is a little funky too, though it is working. I used an adapter like vinylicious posted. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/attachments/img_3956-jpg.417823/

 

[Alt]

I did not, I was actually wondering if the controller had an adjustment for the probe. I have not had time to look, been too busy brewing with it. I just compensated by adjusting the set temp down 2 degrees. Has been spot on for three brews. Yeah my connection is a little funky too, though it is working. I used an adapter like vinylicious posted. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/attachments/img_3956-jpg.417823/

From display mode 2 (showing PV and SV values), hold SET for 3 seconds. The display will change to mode 4 and read IP. Press AT/RUN and the display will read SN for sensor type. Press SET and the display will read SC for sensor calibration. Use DOWN or UP to adjust the value of SC to the difference between your reference temp, in your case the Thermopen, and the PV reading on the Inkbird. If the reference temp is higher, enter a positive number for SC. If your reference temp is lower, use a negative number. After you've enter the value, press SET. The press AT/RUN until you are back at display mode 2 with the PV and SV values displayed.

 

[Toadies]

Is there room to wire a 2nd switch for the element that is coupled with the pump switch?

I would like the element to only turn on if the pump is running.

 

[highland_brewer]

I did a video on the switch upgrade if anyone is interested.


(Yes there is an error in measurements I am aware of )

 

[HD3]

Awesome video!

I have a random question as I am an electric newb and this seems like a good entry point. I was wondering if this unit is rated to add yet another plug which would be controlled by an additional switch? I have a two pump system and would love to be able to plug in both pumps and control both of them through this unit. Thoughts?

 

[Bobby_M]

It can be done but now you're talking about finding a spot for another outlet. I suppose the two panel mounted 5-15R outlets can be repurposed for pump 1 and 2 and then run a short dongle cable out through a cord grip for the element output.

 

[HD3]

Thanks for the reply Bobby. I don't have one in hand (yet) but based on photos it looks like there might be some room below the current alarm outlet for another addition. Now I would just have to figure out how to wire it up without frying the unit and myself. ha. Cheers!

 

[PsychoBiter]

How difficult would it be to wire a relay in between the board output and the SSR input that is fired off the pump switch?
Is the SSR fired off 12VDC? (I see a 12VDC relay on the board) I only want the SSR firing if I have the pump turned on.

My ******* always forgets to do "something", I can see me turning on the PID/element without the pump on and scorching wort or popping the element. Just looking for some failsafe.

Looking to order on of these with the switch from Bobby soon.

 

[Bobby_M]

You could put a SPST(NO) mechanical relay inside the box with a 120v coil. The SSR control loop would run through the NO contacts and the coil would be powered along with the pump outlet. Pump on, relay closes allowing the SSR to get signals.

 

[turkeylord]

It can be done but now you're talking about finding a spot for another outlet. I suppose the two panel mounted 5-15R outlets can be repurposed for pump 1 and 2 and then run a short dongle cable out through a cord grip for the element output.

Looks like plenty of room for a cord grip and one of your molded NEMA L6-30R cables Bobby. This thing has a lot of potential with the right mods!

 

[Staticsouls]

Used mine from Bobby yesterday for the first time, and it was awesome! I have it controlling one 1650w element in my hlt, and my hlt recirc pump. I set it to the desired temp, and iy held my mash right where I wanted it to. Perfect set up for anyone who only has 120v circuits available but wants Herms or Rims.

 

[chrisisnapping]

mine just came in yesterday, got it on sale from Amazon last week at like $80. Purchased a waterproof probe and that adapter that was posted in post #53 (i think). I have to do some more fine tuning of the probe to get the temperature right as right now I am comparing it to my (relatively cheap) digital thermometer. I will be using it to power a hotrod from Bobby to hold mash temps in my BIAB set up. I currently have a 42qt pot with a 30qt steamer basket that I have fitted to fit in the pot without falling onto the heat stick. Should be doing the first batch on Saturday, can't wait to finally have consistent mash temps.

 

[vrodbrad]

I ordered mine up from amazon, should be here tomorrow. It won't have the switch so I will have to look at highland brewers video again on adding the switch.

 

[vrodbrad]

Well mine came in yesterday. I read through all the post and seeing A lot on setting up for mash and boil. I see that has a cooling mode and because I won't be able to get heating element until next month I was wondering if this could be used on my chest freezer for time being to see what actual temp in freezer is and adjust accordingly. I do have a Johnson controller on chest freezer rout now but it is the dial temp type and wanted better accuracy. How would I go about setting it up for cooling. As others have said instructions are hard to understand

 

[augiedoggy]

PID controllers are not ideal for controlling a refrigerator compressor, you have to add long time delay s of a couple minutes so it won't burn up your compressor... Not sure what kind of accuracy your actually looking for but I doubt you will see any appreciable advantage over the Johnson in this situation which is actually better suited for that task and good enough for most commercial applications for controlling refrigeration temps.

 

[AJ Peacock]

I just got one of these units.

Anyone know why my temp probe reading would oscillate with a 2 degree Fahrenheit difference (eg 89 degrees, then 91 degrees, and back to 89 degrees every second or so). I’ve used the temp probe that came with the unit and a second PT100 probe from Auber. Anything come to mind that I should look at? I’m wondering if it is the audio connector port? Wiring to the PID controller, etc? I’m not an electrical engineer, so anything would help.

Cheers
M

Metzen, did you ever figure out why yours oscillates? I just received one and it does exactly the same thing. 2F swing up and down, randomly every second or so.

I wonder if you returned yours and I got it

Thanks,
AJ

 

[Metzen]

Metzen, did you ever figure out why yours oscillates? I just received one and it does exactly the same thing. 2F swing up and down, randomly every second or so.

I wonder if you returned yours and I got it

Thanks,
AJ

I never got it working correctly. I ultimately harvested it for parts for my CBPi driven controller. You didn’t get mine but I’d still return it.

 

[augiedoggy]

looks like its just the way all the inkbird pids are designed...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ith-pt100-temperature-variation-issue.647400/

has anyone actually verified if the readout fluctuation actually effects performance? at holding temps?

Im willing to bet they are just showing real time voltage fluctuations in the temp probe whereas many digital thermometers use some sort of smoothing filters to buffer the readout so it doesnt show them.

 

[Metzen]

looks like its just the way all the inkbird pids are designed...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ith-pt100-temperature-variation-issue.647400/

has anyone actually verified if the readout fluctuation actually effects performance? at holding temps?

Im willing to bet they are just showing real time voltage fluctuations in the temp probe whereas many digital thermometers use some sort of smoothing filters to buffer the readout so it doesnt show them.

I have another unit of the same model that works fine with the same temp probes. I tried reconfiguring the smoothing, etc but it had no effect. I think it was just that unit.

 

[augiedoggy]

I have another unit of the same model that works fine with the same temp probes. I tried reconfiguring the smoothing, etc but it had no effect. I think it was just that unit.

well than its got to be a weakness in the design that causes a high failure rate with the same issue... the guy in the thread I linked claimed to have like 4 of them and they all behaved the same way.. maybe one of his probes was initially wired wrong and took out something that acts as a buffer like a smoothing cap?

 

[hunter306]

I have noticed mine also shows these minor display fluctuations, more apparently so when I'm holding my sparge/mash temps prior to mashing in. Generally I set it around 165 to account for heat loss for mash, then 170 for sparge. I'll often observe the 2 degree rapid fluctuations while it is "holding" that temperature.

There is an option on the IPB-16 to smooth the probe response, but ramping this all the way up (or carefully adjusting it one or two points at a time) DOES not seem to affect the actual display readout variations. It does seem to affect the actual SSR Switching, so I've just learned to ignore the display fluctuations as they seem to be more of an artifact of the design.

Full disclosure, this happens with my unmodified probe as well as my NPT probe which I have mounted in the HLT. So it's not the probe that's causing the problem.

 

[vrodbrad]

Well testing the unit out on a roasting pan. Roasting pan has a 1450 watt element

 

[plastik46]

hi, I have a question regarding the manual mode for boiling. When i switch it to manual mode and set the element to 100 it works for a while then shuts of the output to the element is this normal? i can keep it at 100 percent using it in auto and raising the temp to 240 for the full boil. am i missing something when it comes to manual mode?

 

[Bobby_M]

hi, I have a question regarding the manual mode for boiling. When i switch it to manual mode and set the element to 100 it works for a while then shuts of the output to the element is this normal? i can keep it at 100 percent using it in auto and raising the temp to 240 for the full boil. am i missing something when it comes to manual mode?

Before switching to manual mode, set the SV to a temp above boiling. The manual mode seems to work until PV=SV and then it acts like an on/off controller..

 

[plastik46]

thanks for the reply bobby, I ordered it from your store too, love the pump switch you installed.
thanks for the help, Josh