In-Line Sight Glass for my RIMS

[JVD_X]

I built an inline sight glass for my RIMS. Mine is built from 316 Stainless but you could easily do this for 1/2 the price using plastic or brass.

McMaster-Carr part numbers:


8585K41 8 Ft. Polycarbonate Round Tube, 5/8" Od, 1/2" Id, Clear
5182K814 2 Each Type 316 Ss Yor-lok Tube Fitting

 

[3 Dog Brew]

Nicely done! Thanks for sharing the part numbers.

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

Looks nice. Did you go with polycarbonate instead of borosilicate glass just due to potential breakage? The glass would be easier to clean and, if it didn't break, would last longer. Over time it seems that polycarbonate will likely get discolored and might crack if there are any stress points.
borosilicate sight glass tubing
5/8" OD borosilicate glass tubing

 

[JVD_X]

Looks nice. Did you go with polycarbonate instead of borosilicate glass just due to potential breakage? The glass would be easier to clean and, if it didn't break, would last longer. Over time it seems that polycarbonate will likely get discolored and might crack if there are any stress points.
borosilicate sight glass tubing
5/8" OD borosilicate glass tubing

You are probably right about the tubing. I was concerned about breakage... but I got 8 feet of the polycarbonate so if it does discolor, it is easily replaced. Also, I was able to cut it using a regular pipe cutter.

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

Yea, it prob depends on how and where you use it. If it is put in a fixed location that is reasonably out-of-the-way and kept there then breakage is much less likely. I have some 600 gallon tanks at work that have ~5' long, 3/4" OD sight glass tubes. At that length those all-thread rods don't provide that much protection but nobody has ever broken one (~15 years and counting).

EDIT: FWIW, I just bought one of the 5088K58 from this page for work. So ya...you saved a bit!

 

[Bensiff]

Those fittings say they are for SS tubing, how well are they working for the plastic. I was looking at making one myself using glass tubing instead and was a little worried about breakage when tightening them down.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Wow, that's a real sharp, clean build. These things are really useful, and cool as hell. Any idea how you might add those 4 bars around one of these? (Cheaply?)

 

[Bobby_M]

Those fittings say they are for SS tubing, how well are they working for the plastic. I was looking at making one myself using glass tubing instead and was a little worried about breakage when tightening them down.

No, you can't tighten them down on glass using the included stainless ferrules. You'd have to pack the area between the nut and fitting with 2-3 orings. Even then, the ends of borosilicate tubes absolutely need to be flame polished and you can't tweak it in the fitting at all.

 

[Bobby_M]

Wow, that's a real sharp, clean build. These things are really useful, and cool as hell. Any idea how you might add those 4 bars around one of these? (Cheaply?)

Yeah, hose clamp them to the compression nuts.

 

[ScubaSteve]

That's not a bad idea, it would still look pretty clean if you had the worm clamp to the back.....

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Or use an oetiker clamp

 

[ScubaSteve]

No, you can't tighten them down on glass using the included stainless ferrules. You'd have to pack the area between the nut and fitting with 2-3 orings. Even then, the ends of borosilicate tubes absolutely need to be flame polished and you can't tweak it in the fitting at all.

Hey Bobby, I know you've been there and done that with the borosilicate for your sight gauges....knowing what you know now, would you say polycarbonate is the way to go? What if you were planning on recircing boiling wort through one of these inline sight glasses?

 

[JVD_X]

Those fittings say they are for SS tubing, how well are they working for the plastic. I was looking at making one myself using glass tubing instead and was a little worried about breakage when tightening them down.

They are working fine for my polycarbonate... still no issues...

Wow, that's a real sharp, clean build. These things are really useful, and cool as hell. Any idea how you might add those 4 bars around one of these? (Cheaply?)

Thanks! I don't understand your question.

 

[Bensiff]

They are working fine for my polycarbonate... still no issues...


So to clarify, using the polycarbonate and the ss fittings you were able to hook it all up without the plastic cracking or leaking? Did you use some O-rings in there or anything else?

BTW, thanks for the input guys, its nice to find a forum where there is more going on than, "critique my recipe" posts.

 

[JVD_X]

They are working fine for my polycarbonate... still no issues...


So to clarify, using the polycarbonate and the ss fittings you were able to hook it all up without the plastic cracking or leaking? Did you use some O-rings in there or anything else?

BTW, thanks for the input guys, its nice to find a forum where there is more going on than, "critique my recipe" posts.

I didn't use anything but the mcmaster items sited in the first post. No issues at all. I even used two wrenches to tighten things up.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Thanks! I don't understand your question.

Some sight glasses have 4 rods that run the length of the glass, one one each side. It's kind of a protective measure. I would be putting one of these in vertically, with piping above and below, and so I don't want too much force compressing the sight glass and possibly deforming it while it is hot. I figured these rods might help keep everything together. I hope that makes sense...

 

[Bobby_M]

Personally I wouldn't use the stainless ferrules when orings seal really well without excessive force and it would make it a lot easier to take apart.

Unless you're going to install this out of the way in a manor that would not stress the pyrex glass, you could use it. I don't see any problem with the polycarb because it's rated up to 250F. If you're a BPA alarmist, it may be a concern, but I'd be much more worried about smashing the glass tube and running half the kettle out on the floor.

 

[JVD_X]

Personally I wouldn't use the stainless ferrules when orings seal really well without excessive force and it would make it a lot easier to take apart.

Unless you're going to install this out of the way in a manor that would not stress the pyrex glass, you could use it. I don't see any problem with the polycarb because it's rated up to 250F. If you're a BPA alarmist, it may be a concern, but I'd be much more worried about smashing the glass tube and running half the kettle out on the floor.

We don't have enough BPA in our systems... the FDA has decided they made a mistake and BPA from China is acceptable under the newest Obama health care plan. In fact, if you don't consume BPA you will be fined up to 2% of your income or they will take your first born and send it to Iran.

 

[bellecitybrewer]

I know this thread is reallllly old, but i'm planning on doing the same thing. I'm also planning on adding a four-bolt shield around it in this order: 1/2" ss coupling-1/2" ss nipple-1" galvanized floor flange(the nipple slides through the main hole)-1/2" ss coupling- Compression fitting- length of polycarb, and then the same series of parts out the other end. I'm planning on putting four bolts through the two floor flanges for sort of a ghetto shield. It's going to be mounted to the return on the upper wall of my keggle mash tun. Oh and for anyone interested in the compression fittings, Morebeer is having a sale on them right now for $5-something a piece.