I was told there would be no math...

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elvestinkle

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I don't know if I really have a point to this, but I'm scratching my head over water chemistry. I finally got the numbers from the public utilities people, so now I'm looking at all the chemistry info from HTB and it all just swims together. I'll get it one of these days. Maybe with some coffee...

How did you get over the water chemistry hump?
 
+1 on sofware but i also read, read, and reread the information about a hundred times, and put the information into practice incrimentally a step at a time as not to overwhelm myself. i found this site to be extrmely helpful.Braukaiser.com - German brewing and more

I must say by no means am I an expert or even very fluent in water chemistry but I finally understand the concepts and math (good to know but not necessary, however i let the software do it for me now.) I have used it to this point to adjust and predict my PH as well as ensure that my mineral levels are in the correct ballparks. I have yet to use it to copy any particular water profile. Just be persistent and don't let it confuse you. I felt like i was in a whirlwind sometimes I would force myself to set it down for a few days and come back to it with a fresh head. it's amazing when that "lightbulb" finally goes on!
 
Unless you're tap water is really far off from average, I wouldn't worry about it. That or use spring water. There are much bigger fish to fry than water chemistry.

Unless you really want to. Then start here:
How to Brew - By John Palmer - Understanding the Mash pH
And here:
EZ Water Calculator

+1 I agree!! getting your process down first is most important, once your consistent then wter chemistry can be beneficial. I though had a PH issues and was forced, since i didn't wnat to have to buy water, to learn as I was moving, learning and adjusting to all-grain from being and extract brewer.
 
I'm a big fan of this one for ultra simple water checks. Just make sure you've got green stars (or close) in all the categories and you're good. My water is super-hard, but green stars all across, so I just add some acid malt to keep the mash pH down and I'm good to go.
 
currently in the same boat. I feel like this is the last thing for me to get comfortable with. I am by no means a mast brewer but I think i have everything else under control enough to make good beer. I just wanna lock down my water to hit that next level. Looks like plenty of helpful links here though.
 
+100. I too was surprised by the complexity of water chemistry. And for goodness sakes, don't torture yourself with trying to adjust your municipal water. Start with 100% reverse osmosis or distiller water. Much easier to build up a profile when you don't have to worry about taking minerals out of your beer. Plus, Czech Pilsner is damn near all RO water anyway.
 
Thanks for all the support. We actually have very, very boring and soft water; mostly good for pilsens and pale ales according to Palmer's chart. Our process is good, so nailing water chemistry is the last big hurdle to making truly excellent beer. All in the fullness of time...

I remember hearing that Palmer was doing a water monograph. That would make life much easier, I imagine :)
 
I don't know if I really have a point to this, but I'm scratching my head over water chemistry. I finally got the numbers from the public utilities people, so now I'm looking at all the chemistry info from HTB and it all just swims together. I'll get it one of these days. Maybe with some coffee...

How did you get over the water chemistry hump?

i'll bet most homebrewers do very little if anything to their water besides filtering for chlorine. would make an interesting poll i guess....
 
Reverse Osmosis, they have systems for less $150, you have big jugs walmart sells it for .37 a gallon. Better water, simplest way to improve beer.
 
Do you have the same problem as me? Stouts and dark beers aren't too good, but pales are awesome?

I think it's my water (it's very soft, like almost pilzen soft). Going to be making some adjustments to it for my next batch.
 
I used to fiddle with spreadsheets and what not. Overthinking it big time. But then I read Gordon Strong's book. He essentially adds CaCl and CaSO4 to RO water to get an appropriate calcium levels, in a ratio appropriate for the style (more SO4 in hoppy beers, more Cl in malty beers). He also talks about adding specialty grains during vorlouf or cold steeping overnight (I've started cold steeping overnight). That effectively makes ph adjustment a nonissue for most beers, the gypsum/CaCl additions get the Ph in the right band, and you don't have the roasted grains to screw it up. That's not as necessary for paler bears, but for stouts and porters it definately simplifies things. There's a water chemistry primer thread on this board which is essentially the same principles but I'm on my phone so I won't link to it. Last, Gordon Strong says basically, stop f'ing with spreadsheets, you're the brewmaster, act like it.
 
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