I just don't get this water thing

[StroudCreek]

Ok guys I'm sure someone here can help me out. I'm just an old (50) firefighter, 30 years on the job, I've been brewing just over 3 years. I've brewed around 55 batches with approximately 45 of them being all grain. I'm brewing some really good beer and it's VERY consistent in taste and ABV. Actually I've won several medals. My brew system consists of 2 keggles, and a 10 gallon water cooler mash tun. I batch sparge everything because I do not have pumps yet. I also have 2 refrigerators with SCT 1000 temperature controllers that I use as fermentation chambers. I recently began trying to learn more about water chemistry and changing my water profile to try to take my beer to that so called next level. I have just bought a PH meter and I also have a scale that will weigh to the 1/100 gram. I brew mostly Blondes, IPA's, Hefeweizens, Brown Ales, Stouts, Porters, and an occasional Pale Ale. Here is my problem, all this water stuff just seams to be over my head. I need that water for dummies book LOL. I do have a water report and I'll post it below.

 

[FirstAidBrewing]

Post that report for us!

I wouldn't call myself an expert but from the threads I read, your water hardness is typically the main factor in how it affects your beers. This presents itself in dark vs. lighter beers (in terms of SRM). Do you notice that your darker beers are better tasting than your lighter beers or vice versa? Hard water lends itself to darker beers and soft water is the opposite.

Your water report will help us identify what you have, what it's good for, and how to adjust if necessary

 

[TheCrackpot]

I felt the same way about water. After many nights reading and researching, I found the simplest way to simplify the water question for me was to start using reverse osmosis water with a little calcium chloride, gypsum, and acidulated malt. This takes away the need for all the complicated math as well as constant water reports.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=198460

The first post in this thread is where the bare bones method that I use came from.
I get RO water from a water supply company that is on the way to my LHBS and it's $1.50 for 5 gallons.

I have noticed a positive change in my beer.

 

[StroudCreek]

PH - 6.9
Total Hardness (CaCO3 ppm) - 30
Calcium Hardness (CaCO3 ppm) 5
Calcium (Ca +2 ppm) - 2
Magnesium Hardness (CaCO3 ppm) - 25
Magnesium (Mg +2 ppm) - 6
Chloride (CI ppm) - 20
Sulfate (SO 4 -2 ppm) - 5
Sodium (Na + ppm) - 15.5
Total Alkalinity (CaCO3 ppm) - 30
Residual Alkalinity (CaCO3 ppm) - 25

 

[TheCrackpot]

Basically, you can use RO water with 1tsp of calcium chloride for beers with a substantial amount of dark roasted malt in the mash. I use 1-1.5tsp gypsum and .5-1tsp calcium chloride (per 5 gal) along with 1-2% acidulated malt for beers lighter in color and higher in hops.

 

[FirstAidBrewing]

That is what I would call soft water. So I expect that your pale ales come out pretty good. However your darker beers are probably mashing at a pH that is too low. If you plug your numbers into ez water or brun water and add some stuff to raise your pH, you will probably see an improvement in those brews

 

[StroudCreek]

First Ade they are all good but my lighter bees are definitely my best. I brew a blonde ale with nothing but 2 row that has won several medals. I feel my process is very good because a beer with only one grain and 1 type of hope, If I didn't have my process down to the tee it would definitely show up in such a simple beer

 

[jwalk4]

Once you gain a few opinions on your water, and you get it figured out per your target profile, start to worry about your recipes and where you got them. The internet? A book? word of mouth?

Depending on your expectations, it may take a few brews of the same recipes to nail down the style.

 

[mblanks2]

PH - 6.9
Total Hardness (CaCO3 ppm) - 30
Calcium Hardness (CaCO3 ppm) 5
Calcium (Ca +2 ppm) - 2
Magnesium Hardness (CaCO3 ppm) - 25
Magnesium (Mg +2 ppm) - 6
Chloride (CI ppm) - 20
Sulfate (SO 4 -2 ppm) - 5
Sodium (Na + ppm) - 15.5
Total Alkalinity (CaCO3 ppm) - 30
Residual Alkalinity (CaCO3 ppm) - 25

Download Bru'n Water and plug this information into it. Read through the Water knowledge section. Look at the different water profiles built into the sheet and go from there. It may seem a little intimidating at first but once you get the hang of it you'll improve your beer and feel comfortable with the results. I've used this enough to adjust according to the sheet and feel comfortable enough that the PH is gonna be very close to predicted. You will of coarse need a good PH meter. Second to fermentation temperature control this is the best thing I've done for my beers.

 

[WiscBadger]

Following

 

[ajdelange]

That's pretty good water. You could treat it like RO water as is or you could dilute it 1:1 with RO water and then follow the previously referenced Primer to get you started.

 

[Mexibilly]

Bru'n Water is definitely the go-to calculator based on number of people using it with success.
My last brew I used this:
http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/
I haven't tasted the results yet, but I did a considerable amount of homework and found this to be a good calculator as well.

 

[JonM]

Read Palmer's Water book after the Primer. I don't have a science background, so I had to read a few of the chapters a couple times, but it eventually clicked. It does a great job of explaining the whys and the hows of all the water stuff.