I cold crashed 5 gallons American IPA,

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now I need to know how much priming sugar. Cold crash @39 degrees, beer temp is now almost 60 degrees. Can I use 4oz? but all calculators read less than that.
 
yup put in the calculator whatever temp will be the long term storage temp.
 
Wrong! You put in the highest temperature that the beer reached during/after fermentation. that's because those calculators (which I despise, by the way!) try to guestimate the residual co2 in the beer. Once fermentation ends, no new co2 is produced so cold crashing or storing cold doesn't affect the amount of co2 in solution.

Use 4-5 oz of corn sugar to prime 5 gallons. If it's less than 5 gallons at bottling, use less than 5 ounces. A good amount is 1 oz per finished gallon, especially for a lager that is well carbed (about 2.5 volumes of co2).
 
well Yooper...it's too late, already bottled. I did read someplace that it all depends on the highest fermentation temp, which was 68 degrees as to what you say. Two guys say to do as what the calc says. I guess I wait and see in a couple of weeks.
 
well Yooper...it's too late, already bottled. I did read someplace that it all depends on the highest fermentation temp, which was 68 degrees as to what you say. Two guys say to do as what the calc says. I guess I wait and see in a couple of weeks.

How much sugar did you end up using? If it was 4 ounces or so, it'll be ok. If it was 2 oz or so, the beer will be flat.
 
As always, Yooper hits the center of the target!

Best to leave it in the bottles and take this as a lesson learned. I really do wish people would get the message on using priming calculators, though. There should be a sticky about how the temperature input on the calculator is NOT the current temp, NOR is it what temp you will condition. This is just one of those brewing "myths" which people won't re-educate themselves. End of rant. Return to normal activities.
 
As always, Yooper hits the center of the target!

Best to leave it in the bottles and take this as a lesson learned. I really do wish people would get the message on using priming calculators, though. There should be a sticky about how the temperature input on the calculator is NOT the current temp, NOR is it what temp you will condition. This is just one of those brewing "myths" which people won't re-educate themselves. End of rant. Return to normal activities.

OR, a sticky saying that priming calculators are ridiculous and should be ignored. :D
While priming "to style" seems like a great idea, most people who buy bottled commercial beer don't drink it "to style". Most commercial beers are carbed at 2.4-2.5 volumes of co2, regardless of style.

Those calculators would have you prime your stout at 1.6 volumes (flat) and 4.0 volumes for weizens (bottle bombs) and nobody wants flat beer OR bottle bombs. It's true that a cask ale is great- when it's a cask ale and especially beers with beer engines- but drinking a flat beer which is primed "to style" just would suck.
 
Leave well enough alone. Pouring it back would risk oxidation and ruining it altogether.
 
Yoop.so what should I do? leave well enough alone or pour back into fermenter and wait a week, then re-prime?

That's hard. You'll have flat-ish beer, but dumping it back into a fermenter would probably oxidize the beer.

Can you open the bottles add the 2 oz (or whatever you're missing) divided by 48 (or however many bottles you have) and recap? That would be preferred to me if you have enough caps and a small enough measuring scale.
 
I may go with the tabs. Unfortunate for me I have 12oz, 16oz(grolsh) and 22oz bottles to carb. Grrrr and this was my first IPA too.......
 
I may go with the tabs. Unfortunate for me I have 12oz, 16oz(grolsh) and 22oz bottles to carb. Grrrr and this was my first IPA too.......

Well good luck cuz that's the style I consistently screw up. More specifically any and all two hearted ale clones.
 
Wrong! You put in the highest temperature that the beer reached during/after fermentation. that's because those calculators (which I despise, by the way!) try to guestimate the residual co2 in the beer. Once fermentation ends, no new co2 is produced so cold crashing or storing cold doesn't affect the amount of co2 in solution.

Use 4-5 oz of corn sugar to prime 5 gallons. If it's less than 5 gallons at bottling, use less than 5 ounces. A good amount is 1 oz per finished gallon, especially for a lager that is well carbed (about 2.5 volumes of co2).

I never knew this! I thought the temperature you enter was the current temp of the beer right before adding priming sugar. So all this time I've been doing it wrong. They really should state that on the calculator. So does the the one ounce of corn sugar per finished gallon of beer rule apply for an IPA?
 
I never knew this! I thought the temperature you enter was the current temp of the beer right before adding priming sugar. So all this time I've been doing it wrong. They really should state that on the calculator. So does the the one ounce of corn sugar per finished gallon of beer rule apply for an IPA?

Yes, that's what I generally use.
 
Please listed to Yooper!!!!! I basically ruined 3 batches of beer trying to "carb to style" using that POS calculator. If you like flat beer after bottle conditioning for a month by all means have at it.
 
I forgot about the original "low corn sugar" 6 bottles that I put in the cupboard as my Rubbermaid tub was full. So in two weeks I'll be able to see if Yooper or the calculator wins.
 
just finished one of my bottles that were carbed per the calculator. Only bottled for one week and in the fridge for about 4 hours, long story short...it's carbed "wonderfully". Tastes great too. my other test is to give one of the calculator carbed bottles to a friend at work that knows IPA's. I'll remove all labels and wait for his critique. Tomorrow morning, I'll put one of the post carbed bottles and open it up in the evening. Hope it's not a bottle bomb. Was watching Caddy Shack II as I typed this and the movie sucks.
 
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