GrogNerd
mean old man
It's pretty cool being able to tell when the majority of the fermentation has finished!
way cool
and your beer is .3° OFF set point! temperature is out of control! esters! hot alcohol! off flavors!
It's pretty cool being able to tell when the majority of the fermentation has finished!
way cool
and your beer is .3° OFF set point! temperature is out of control! esters! hot alcohol! off flavors!
It's pretty cool being able to tell when the majority of the fermentation has finished!
You're trying to stuff 18 ga stranded wire ends into the Uno header sockets?
Even assuming that would work reliably (I doubt it) what were you going to do at the other ends - that have to slip over pins?
If you order right now, you can get a better solution delivered by Friday...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UKQF8BU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Cheers!
Thanks @day_trippr ... Assuming this goes well my next goal will be to integrate the LCD screen using the instructions in the thread you started.
I've never soldered before, should be interesting...
Flux is your friend. not food
$ ls /dev/tty*
What file did you edit to change the color format to blue and the led from yellow?
.lcd-line{
float: left;
clear: left;
font-size: 16px;
font-weight: normal;
font-style: normal;
font-family: '5x8LCDHD44780UA02Regular', monospace;
color: #daf5ff;
white-space: pre;
}
This is what I got.
$ ls /dev/tty*
/dev/tty /dev/tty19 /dev/tty3 /dev/tty40 /dev/tty51 /dev/tty62
/dev/tty0 /dev/tty2 /dev/tty30 /dev/tty41 /dev/tty52 /dev/tty63
/dev/tty1 /dev/tty20 /dev/tty31 /dev/tty42 /dev/tty53 /dev/tty7
/dev/tty10 /dev/tty21 /dev/tty32 /dev/tty43 /dev/tty54 /dev/tty8
/dev/tty11 /dev/tty22 /dev/tty33 /dev/tty44 /dev/tty55 /dev/tty9
/dev/tty12 /dev/tty23 /dev/tty34 /dev/tty45 /dev/tty56 /dev/ttyS0
/dev/tty13 /dev/tty24 /dev/tty35 /dev/tty46 /dev/tty57 /dev/ttyS1
/dev/tty14 /dev/tty25 /dev/tty36 /dev/tty47 /dev/tty58 /dev/ttyS2
/dev/tty15 /dev/tty26 /dev/tty37 /dev/tty48 /dev/tty59 /dev/ttyS3
/dev/tty16 /dev/tty27 /dev/tty38 /dev/tty49 /dev/tty6 /dev/ttyUSB0
/dev/tty17 /dev/tty28 /dev/tty39 /dev/tty5 /dev/tty60
/dev/tty18 /dev/tty29 /dev/tty4 /dev/tty50 /dev/tty61
So I followed the assumption.
Typed this in:
udevadm info -a -n /dev/ttyUSB0 | less > info.log
Got this back:
bash: udevadm: command not found
Try it with sudo first
Unfortunately, HBT PM doesn't allow attachments, but I've put a generic/unchanged BrewPi style.css on my Google Drive at
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9LDZiaPcEoSOHJYbWxXQjBmNTg/view?usp=sharing
Anyone can download it and diff it against their local copy...
Cheers!
You can wire the SSR directly to the Arduino.Can I wire it directly yo the arduino like I did the relay board shown in the OP or do I need to do something different
You can wire the SSR directly to the Arduino.
I have my setup controlling my refrigerator compressor unit. The compressor is from a vending machine and the name plate says it uses 8 amps and it is a 1/3 HP compressor. I have measured 7 on start up and it settles down to 4 amps while running. I had my relay get stuck in the "on" position the other day which made the fridge run too long.
I switched it over to another mechanical relay and bought a 25A solid state relay and a heat sink to replace the mechanical one. I tried to hook it up last night and couldn't get it to turn on. It turns on if I apply a 12V source to the input. The SSR says it runs on 3 to 32 VDC.
When I tried unsuccessfully last night, I connected the digital pin 5 to the plus side of the SSR and ground on the negative side.
Can I wire it directly yo the arduino like I did the relay board shown in the OP or do I need to do something different?
I guess I could use the existing relay board and have it turn the 12V power supply on and off to control the SSR, but I was hoping I could fire it directly from the arduino.
"ch341-uart" is your Chinese Uno. It appears the OS recognizes it's a USB/Serial bridge, but for whatever reason it's not probing behind it.
My SWAG is there's a driver issue...
Cheers!
[edit] ...or there's no boot loader on that Uno.
This ends up the same for all 4 devices. 2 of witch were previously working as BrewPi controllers. They have all been set up with a bootloader from my windows machine. How do I isolate the driver issue and resolve that?
This ends up the same for all 4 devices. 2 of witch were previously working as BrewPi controllers. They have all been set up with a bootloader from my windows machine. How do I isolate the driver issue and resolve that?
Brown is live (or 'hot'). Blue is neutral. Green/yellow is earth (or 'ground').
You really should get someone more qualified or experienced to check things out once you've finished, and before you plug anything in. Mains electricity can kill.
Click on the name ("YYY") and you'll get a menu. Choose the option to start a new brew and give it a new name.
Enter your email address to join: