After starting on this project and realizing that I wanted to add the LCD screen and the bluetooth options that @day_trippr was so great to make How To's for, I decided that a PCB board build would be a good learning project for my 10 year old and I. With much help from day_trippr, we came up with this:
View attachment 342423
Kudos to day_trippr
View attachment 342424
Soldered up:
View attachment 342425
Mated to the UNO:
View attachment 342426
More pics to follow when I get the bluetooth hooked up and all put in a project box. I'm really pleased for our first attempt at a board. And the purple is kind of cool. I've already come up with a couple of changes if I go to version 1.1
After starting on this project and realizing that I wanted to add the LCD screen and the bluetooth options that @day_trippr was so great to make How To's for, I decided that a PCB board build would be a good learning project for my 10 year old and I. With much help from day_trippr, we came up with this:
View attachment 342423
Kudos to day_trippr
View attachment 342424
Soldered up:
View attachment 342425
Mated to the UNO:
View attachment 342426
More pics to follow when I get the bluetooth hooked up and all put in a project box. I'm really pleased for our first attempt at a board. And the purple is kind of cool. I've already come up with a couple of changes if I go to version 1.1
You might wanna dig a little deeper and look into the brewpi forum and legacy forum. because I believe there is a different I2c setup that actually uses pin 8 and 9 that would normally go to shift register for I2c instead of the analog pins. because I can tell you from experience that once you start messing with the one-wire stuff you'll open up a whole other can if worms
Tnx for this and saving me frustration later on.. I though I was home free when I could get a HEX file for brewpi working on the Uno with the now familiar text, but I found herrfrost:s implementation of software I2C on github since onewire pinout was hardcoded in several places and it will need me to compile new hex file for my setup using that repo.So I guess its actually easier to make a new "traditional" shift register knock off rev C pseudoshield and bring out the solder gun. The layout of above posting seems very nice, I hope he shares it with the world.
Thanks and cheers! / A
I found the updated I2c implementation. it uses pins 10 an 11 for I2c and even has some bug fix have if you are using cheapo Chinese knockoffs with the ch40 USB.
https://github.com/herrfrost/firmware/blob/feature/SoftwareI2C/readme.md
Nice piece of work. if you wouldn't mind sharing your files. I might like to get some printed myself. 1 Question though. did you just put all the capacitors in a row and run one trace across them, or are they traced to the components you intend to decouple?
Man this thread is packed full of information.
I am looking to build a fermentation chamber out of wood and foam insulation sheets and mount the guts from my freezer that i have to the chamber I build. My goal is to have 3 (maybe more in the future) Fast Fermenter plastic conical's. I am thinking I will keep the chamber at a set temperature and then use a brew belt like this to bring the fermenter up to the temp desired.
View attachment 342875
Are the below items all I need to accomplish this?
SainSmart UNO R3 ATmega328-AU Development Board Compatible With Arduino UNO R3
View attachment 342876
RasberryPi 3
View attachment 342877
SainSmart 2/4/8/16-Channel Relay Module for Arduino & Raspberry Pi
Would go with 8 Channel.
View attachment 342878
Then multiple outlets to control the freezer and multiple heater belts.
View attachment 342879
Would also eventually have a keezer built and use it to control the temp for that.
Am i missing anything? Will I need multiple UNO boards or will one cover it?
Sorry for the simple questions, this is all slowly starting to make sense.
You'd need multiple Arduino boards, but other than that your basically right excluding what you need for the RPI like power cable and SD card.
That said there is some pretty big news that i wont totally spill the beans on quite yet that will drastically cut the cost of building DIY BrewPi's for certain configurations and make them significantly cheaper, even cheaper than building a STC1000 and allow for multiple fermentation chamber control without all the fuss you need to go through now. So keep an eye out on this subforum over the coming weeks, when it does officially go public i'll likely start a fresh thread for that build.
Its up to you if you want to wait or just go with the traditional route that we have now.
Man this thread is packed full of information... Am i missing anything?
Does anyone have any idea why I have these weird spikes ever 24 hours (approx)
Could that be a defroster cycle?
Cheers!
Something is happening religiously every 26 hours. Fridge shutting off from running too much? Room temp is pretty darned warm. THat is indeed weird.
In addition to the multiple arduino boards, I would recommend at least 2 DS18B20 temp sensors and a 4.7k sensor per Brewpi instance.
Oh, and lots of patience for the multiple instance setup.
it's called a 1-Wire bus, each probe has it's own address
forget how many bits it is (64?), but over 18 quintillion (2^64) or so possible unique addresses, but the Arduino can tell which one is which
Thank you. That's pretty slick.
Thank you. That's pretty slick.
That's been done - I think someone's done four via a USB hub.
I have four Unos talking to the same RPI, but only one of them uses USB.
Two use Bluetooth and the fourth uses WiFi...
Cheers!
[edit] Do not daisy chain the AC or neutral wires, use a "star" topology from your input power source.
That's been done - I think someone's done four via a USB hub.
I have four Unos talking to the same RPI, but only one of them uses USB.
Two use Bluetooth and the fourth uses WiFi...
Cheers!
[edit] Do not daisy chain the AC or neutral wires, use a "star" topology from your input power source.
Also i have not ever done a multi setup like this but i would assume he will want a externally powered USB hub to run so many power hungry devices?
Also i have not ever done a multi setup like this but i would assume he will want a externally powered USB hub to run so many power hungry devices?
I've ordered a few more arduinos but with this exciting new update I don't want the bother if doing a multi chamber set up on the pi that'll soon be out if date, is it possible to plug the arduino into the pi, set a temp, then unplug it from the pi and it'll keep regulating the temp once it has it's own power source? I know I won't get data but I don't mind that for the moment.
Well, yes. but what do you mean by pi that is out of date. you can run brewpi on an original pi. it doesn't really need all the power of the pi 2 or pi 3.
If it wasn't for brewing, I probably would not have gotten so totally into RPi's, Unos, and a metric crapton of programming languages.
So I can always blame the brewing
btw, you'll have to consider both the worst-case run time AC loading as well as the potential for multiple actuators clicking on at the same time when provisioning your AC.
There's a good chance you'll need to pull from multiple circuits through independent line cords to avoid the pathological case that brings stuff down back at the breaker box...
Cheers!
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