How to identify specs of a circuit

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pretzelb

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I am thinking of switching to the Ss Brewtech system and the specs say that "240VAC 30AMP GFCI Dedicated Circuit Required". Several years ago I had an outlet and 220 circuit added to my garage for my current system. But looking at the panel I can't see any label or specs for the circuit and I can't seem to find any receipt. Since I like living I'm not going to take the panel off to get a better view but is there a chance that what I have isn't what is required for the new system? I'm debating just having an electrician come over and figure it out - might be the easiest money he makes that day.
 
There should be a number on the handle of the circuit breaker itself.
Since this is a 240 v it will be 2 joined together. Just google 240 v circuit breaker for photos
 
There should be a number on the handle of the circuit breaker itself.
Since this is a 240 v it will be 2 joined together. Just google 240 v circuit breaker for photos
I'll be darned, I never noticed that. Mine does have a 30 on it so I guess I'm good. I noticed other circuits have a 20 and 40 on them.
 
Unless the breaker has a small button on it labeled "Test", and a separate white pigtail connecting to the neutral bus (which you can't see unless you pull the front cover off of the panel) then it is not a GFCI breaker. A 30A regular breaker just protects the wires from getting too much current and overheating, but does nothing to protect you from electrocution. The GFCI is the bit that limits fault (i.e. shock) currents to less than 6 mA, which is not enough to hurt you.

Brew on :mug:
 
Unless the breaker has a small button on it labeled "Test", and a separate white pigtail connecting to the neutral bus (which you can't see unless you pull the front cover off of the panel) then it is not a GFCI breaker. A 30A regular breaker just protects the wires from getting too much current and overheating, but does nothing to protect you from electrocution. The GFCI is the bit that limits fault (i.e. shock) currents to less than 6 mA, which is not enough to hurt you.

Brew on :mug:
It does have the "test" label on it. I forgot to mention that part. It always confuses me how sometimes the voltage will be listed as 220 and other 240. And I totally missed that the amps were on the lever.
 
It does have the "test" label on it. I forgot to mention that part. It always confuses me how sometimes the voltage will be listed as 220 and other 240. And I totally missed that the amps were on the lever.
The actual voltage varies, but is normally in the range of 220v to 240v last time I checked mine it was 226v
 
My SSB 2v works fine on my clothes dryer outlet and never tripped a breaker during 1 hr boil.
Do you have GFCI protection on that dryer outlet? Most dryer outlets are NOT GFCI protected. It only takes about 60 milliamps to kill you. A 30 amp breaker does nothing to protect you, it only helps prevent your house from burning down. GFCI's trip at a maximum 6 mA fault (i.e. current flowing thru you) current.

Brew on :mug:
 
Do you have GFCI protection on that dryer outlet? Most dryer outlets are NOT GFCI protected. It only takes about 60 milliamps to kill you. A 30 amp breaker does nothing to protect you, it only helps prevent your house from burning down. GFCI's trip at a maximum 6 mA fault (i.e. current flowing thru you) current.

Brew on :mug:
Yes I have a GFCI protectection on that outlet.
 

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