How to convert single-valve kegerator???

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chronoclast

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Ok so I got a kegerator for Xmas. I just bought a keg and am ready to do this. Unfortunately, I just discovered that I can't. My kegerator is for single valve kegs, which I guess are commercial kegs. The keg I bought is a standard homebrew keg with one valve for gas and another for liquid. I stopped by my least favorite lhbs because mine is closed on Tuesdays. He gave me some stuff and briefly explained how to do it. I have no idea how. The first two pictures are the gas and liquid valves unscrewed from my single valve. Obviously these dont fit on my keg. The next picture is the stuff he gave me to convert with. What do I do with this? Literally at a loss and extremely frustrated.

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It's easy! You have a sanke type coupler (for commercial kegs), so hang onto that for when you want to serve commercial kegs.

You need a corny keg set up.

For mine, I cut off the sanke connection, and replaced it with the correct connectors. You can buy it as a kit, if you want (video instructions also on this site): http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=152
 
It's easy! You have a sanke type coupler (for commercial kegs), so hang onto that for when you want to serve commercial kegs.

You need a corny keg set up.

For mine, I cut off the sanke connection, and replaced it with the correct connectors. You can buy it as a kit, if you want (video instructions also on this site): http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=152

I immediately run into the problem of not being able to pull the hose off. I took the copper clamp off and still cant remove the hose. Can I cut it?
 
Ok, gotcha!

You need some 3/16" beverage tubing for the "out" line, and some for the "in" (gas) line. I use red air tubing, like for air compressors, for my gas line but beverage line is fine.

You take the line that goes from the faucet, and put that on the black quick disconnect. Use a hose clamp. If you have a swivel disconnect put it on there (I can't see the photos after I hit "reply" so I can't see exactly what you have).

For the gas line, you'll go from the co2 tank with a line to a gray disconnect. Again, use a hose clamp.

Remember when hooking it up, "B" stands for Black and Beer; G stands for Gray and Gas. So, the black QD always goes on the "out" post on the keg, and the gray disconnect also goes on the "in".
 
Ok some more problems I'm running into. I cut both the lines, the liquid and gas lines. The liquid bolt fits the new mfl and screws back onto the single valve fine. The gas one does not work however. The bolt that screws it into the singlevalve has too small of a hole to fit the new mfl. If I buy a new bolt to fit the mfl it will probably be too small to fit back onto the single valve though. Also, some more problems. The hoses do not fit onto the new mfls. I see you said I'll need new hoses so I'll try that. Also have no idea how to attach the black and white ball valves to the keg valves.

The kegerator is this if it helps... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00472MN7A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Ok some more problems I'm running into. I cut both the lines, the liquid and gas lines. The liquid bolt fits the new mfl and screws back onto the single valve fine. The gas one does not work however. The bolt that screws it into the singlevalve has too small of a hole to fit the new mfl. If I buy a new bolt to fit the mfl it will probably be too small to fit back onto the single valve though. Also, some more problems. The hoses do not fit onto the new mfls. I see you said I'll need new hoses so I'll try that. Also have no idea how to attach the black and white ball valves to the keg valves.

The kegerator is this if it helps... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00472MN7A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Don't worry about how the black and gray quick-disconnects fit to the keg- they just pop on. But you can you post a picture of your keg, so I can make sure you have a ball-lock keg?

If you buy new beer lines, make sure to get them long (like 10'). Gas line length can be shorter, and just enough to reach.

If your hoses don't fit, though, first try boiling them and shoving them on. They are supposed to be a very tight fit, and I have to boil them to get them stuck on there, and it's work!
 
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Ok I posted a picture of the top of my keg and a picture with the gas valve unscrewed, which seems to be too small for my quick release.

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Definitely a ball lock keg. What do you mean the gray QD doesn't fit? did you try lifting up the "ring" on it, and snapping it down?

Ok, got the ball locks to fit. I didn't realize they went right on top. I had the valves unlocked on the keg like in that second picture I posted. Now I'm going to boil the tubes and see if I really do need to buy bigger one (pretty sure I will need to). Thanks for helping me out!
 
Ok, got the ball locks to fit. I didn't realize they went right on top. I had the valves unlocked on the keg like in that second picture I posted. Now I'm going to boil the tubes and see if I really do need to buy bigger one (pretty sure I will need to). Thanks for helping me out!

Actually, you don't want a bigger diameter line- you want 3/16" ID tubing. I'm assuming that came with the kegerator, or it could even be bigger and be 1/4" tubing which is way too big for our purposes.
 
Yooper said:
Actually, you don't want a bigger diameter line- you want 3/16" ID tubing. I'm assuming that came with the kegerator, or it could even be bigger and be 1/4" tubing which is way too big for our purposes.

The liquid hose seems like it will have a chance of fitting after boiling, but I really don't see how the gas hose is going to fit. The liquid one is larger in diameter than the gas one obviously.
 
chronoclast said:
The liquid hose seems like it will have a chance of fitting after boiling, but I really don't see how the gas hose is going to fit. The liquid one is larger in diameter than the gas one obviously.

Got the liquid hose on after boiling. The gas hose isn't even close and actually isn't even getting rubbery from the boiling. Feel like I need the same diameter as the liquid hose.
 
Got the liquid hose on after boiling. The gas hose isn't even close and actually isn't even getting rubbery from the boiling. Feel like I need the same diameter as the liquid hose.

Yes, I don't know why your gas tubing is so small. It is normally the same size as the beer line, or even bigger.
 
Tried this out and after a night of carbing at 30psi my 5gal co2 tank is already out. Is that normal?
 
That is not normal if you had a 5lb CO2 tank. It sounds like you have some kind of a leak. Try spraying down all connections with starsan or some kind of soap mixture and look for bubbles.
 
I just re-did the tubing with locks on the ends. I'm concerned that the leak came from the quick release. When I first connected it the quick release was making noise. If I pressed down on it hard the noise would stop. How can I test to see if the quick release connection to the keg is leaking? If it is would I need a new keg or a new valve on the keg?
 
I just re-did the tubing with locks on the ends. I'm concerned that the leak came from the quick release. When I first connected it the quick release was making noise. If I pressed down on it hard the noise would stop. How can I test to see if the quick release connection to the keg is leaking? If it is would I need a new keg or a new valve on the keg?

Like mentioned before, spray everything down with soapy water or a star-san solution to check for leaks. You'll need to wait until you get the gas tank refilled obviously. You can also wrap wide tape around the top of the keg so that it sticks up and forms a kind of bowl, and then fill it with water to check for leaks on the keg lid, posts, and PRV.

If pushing down on the QD stops the leak, it's probably the diptube o-ring, or maybe the post fitting not being tightened down all the way. Did you pull out the diptubes and replace the o-rings when you got the keg? I usually replace all of the o-rings on any keg as soon as I buy it.
 
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