How To Build A Hop Spider To Filter Hops From Your Wort

[deanfootlong]

just a heads up; i made one and used a fine mesh baggie that i got from midwestsupplies.com as the strainer and it killed an ipa of mine. came out like a pale ale. oh well. ive stopped using it. its mostly just a novelty anyways. all that hop trub either gets stuck at the bottom of your kettle or bottom of your fermenter. and if you're reusing yeast, you can wash the trub out pretty easily.

 

[deanfootlong]

but the point is; dont use a fine mesh bag.

 

[EdWort]

Ed, I see you have a blichmann...would his hopblocker make the hop spider irrelevant? have you thought about adding one of those?

Possibly, but I bought mine with the boil screen and it sucks. I used it once and asked Blichmann to swap it with their Hop Blocker and they said no. The screen get's clogged with break material every time.

I'd like to try it, but I'm still pissed at spending $40 on this poorly designed piece of crap and Blichmann not standing behind it, even after I have purchased two boilermakers, a 14 gallon conical, Beer Gun, and ThruMometer.

Blichmann knows it's a poor design as they discontinued it. I simply asked for credit towards the hop blocker and John Blichmann responds with this on July 29, 2010.

Unfortunate;y we don't have an exchange program. The majority of brewers had no trouble with it but some brewers wanted to use lots of loose pellet hops so we developed the HopBlocker for that reason.

I would suggest whirlpooling, waiting 15-20 min after that for everything to settle, and then SLOWLY drain it. If you drain at full bore you'll just suck everything from the bottom of the pot directly into the filter media.

I had to remove the screen and then follow his instructions to get my wort out without it clogging as even the pickup tube would clog with break material.

Sorry, but that's lame reply, and if the majority had no problem, why did they discontinue it? I filter my hops in hop bags and their screen would get clogged with only break material. I find it pretty sad that they won't stand behind their product for a good customer.

Do I sound bitter? Yep, and I won't buy or recommend another Blichmann product ever again because of their poor customer service on this.

They've lost a good customer over a $39.95 part and principle.

 

[Inodoro_Pereyra]

Sorry, but that's lame reply, and if the majority had no problem, why did they discontinue it? ..../.... I find it pretty sad that they won't stand behind their product for a good customer.

Do I sound bitter? Yep, and I won't buy or recommend another Blichmann product ever again because of their poor customer service on this.

I agree with you completely.
Unfortunately, there seems to be a lot of that lately, from all types of companies, and most people seem to be ok with it.
Yes, you do sound bitter, and rightfully so. I'm assuming you have to work for your money, just like we all have, so you're entitled to be upset when a reputed vendor pulls that kind of crap on you. I wouldn't buy from them either, if I were you, and, after reading your post, they can count me out as a potential customer.

 

[jbrookeiv]

all that hop trub either gets stuck at the bottom of your kettle or bottom of your fermenter. and if you're reusing yeast, you can wash the trub out pretty easily.

Or in my dip tube

Anyway, this design uses a larger, courser bag than most homebrew supply shops market as their "hop bags", and should reduce the chances of crappy hop utilization.

 

[jbrookeiv]

Possibly, but I bought mine with the boil screen and it sucks. I used it once and asked Blichmann to swap it with their Hop Blocker and they said no. The screen get's clogged with break material every time.

I'd like to try it, but I'm still pissed at spending $40 on this poorly designed piece of crap and Blichmann not standing behind it, even after I have purchased two boilermakers, a 14 gallon conical, Beer Gun, and ThruMometer.

Blichmann knows it's a poor design as they discontinued it. I simply asked for credit towards the hop blocker and John Blichmann responds with this on July 29, 2010.

I had to remove the screen and then follow his instructions to get my wort out without it clogging as even the pickup tube would clog with break material.

Sorry, but that's lame reply, and if the majority had no problem, why did they discontinue it? I filter my hops in hop bags and their screen would get clogged with only break material. I find it pretty sad that they won't stand behind their product for a good customer.

Do I sound bitter? Yep, and I won't buy or recommend another Blichmann product ever again because of their poor customer service on this.

They've lost a good customer over a $39.95 part and principle.

That's pretty lame on Blichmann's part.

They also won't allow online-only homebrew shops to sell their stuff, which is why I won't be supporting them.

 

[EdWort]

I agree with you completely.
Unfortunately, there seems to be a lot of that lately, from all types of companies, and most people seem to be ok with it.
Yes, you do sound bitter, and rightfully so. I'm assuming you have to work for your money, just like we all have, so you're entitled to be upset when a reputed vendor pulls that kind of crap on you. I wouldn't buy from them either, if I were you, and, after reading your post, they can count me out as a potential customer.

This got me going again, so I dropped John Blichmann a reply to his email with my thoughts and asked him again to exchange the flawed boil screen as since them he's discontinued the accessory.

I'll post his reply in a new thread so as not to hijack this one. Stay tuned.

 

[JonW]

This got me going again, so I dropped John Blichmann a reply to his email with my thoughts and asked him again to exchange the flawed boil screen as since them he's discontinued the accessory.

I'll post his reply in a new thread so as not to hijack this one. Stay tuned.

If Blichmann won't do anything, I may be interested in buying it. I use the hop spider method and between break material and irish moss, my screen is full of stuff, but I'm still able to get my 10-12 gallons from the kettle into the fermenter. However, the screens are a ***** to clean and when I do back-to-back brews, it would be nice to have two of them so I can just clean them both at the end of the day instead of having to clean it between batches.

 

[Spartan1979]

I built one of these this morning while mashing. I used 6 inch 5/16 carriage bolts instead of 3/8 and got my reducer in the outdoor drain pipe section. Slightly smaller, lighter and half the price of the reducer in the plumbing section. Total cost. $11.11 including tax and 2 filter bags.

 

[jbrookeiv]

I built one of these this morning while mashing. I used 6 inch 5/16 carriage bolts instead of 3/8 and got my reducer in the outdoor drain pipe section. Slightly smaller, lighter and half the price of the reducer in the plumbing section. Total cost. $11.11 including tax and 2 filter bags.

Nice! The reason I used the bigger PVC was to help span the relatively larger diameter of my kettle, ~18". Let me know how it works out for you.

 

[pd230soi]

Hi all,

I am having trouble finding an online source for a CPVC reducer. I am in Bulgaria on assignment and do not trust local suppliers (I know, I'm a jerk). But in past I have discover you get told whatever they think you want to hear.

Does anyone have a source for ordering a CPVC reducer?

Thanks everyone.
Jon

 

[cl8n]

I just built mine, but made a few modifications:
-my pot is a 7.5 gallon turkey fryer and I usually have around 7 gallon pre-boil. In order to keep the reducer and bolt away from the hot liquid I installed the bolts at a downward angle. It now sits an inch or two above the top of kettle.
-I am using the 5 gallon hop bag. I have had good luck with it in the past just growing it in the boil loose.
-I used 6" long 3/8" carriage bolts, but drilled a 5/16" hole and they screw in tight. No need for washer and nuts.

I will post a picture after my next brew. Hopefully that will be tomorrow.

 

[Spartan1979]

Nice! The reason I used the bigger PVC was to help span the relatively larger diameter of my kettle, ~18". Let me know how it works out for you.

FAIL! It was fine then I set my kettle lid on it to sterilize it. Between holding in the steam and the extra weight, the top part deformed. It's now somewhat triangular. Oh, well, it was worth a try. Then the bag caught on my IC and came off. I have to come up with solution for that.

 

[BrewBeemer]

FAIL! It was fine then I set my kettle lid on it to sterilize it. Between holding in the steam and the extra weight, the top part deformed. It's now somewhat triangular. Oh, well, it was worth a try. Then the bag caught on my IC and came off. I have to come up with solution for that.

With PVC's operating range of +32*F to 140*F and it becoming thick window puddy below boiling temp I would try; http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/cleanout-adapter-fitting.html out of ABS instead. ABS with its operating range -40*F to 176*F, this added 36*F temp should prevent the bell from collapsing inwards if using support legs.
Better yet is EdWort's spider design with the ring, I would cut down the OD of the small end on the lathe leaving a small bulb end preventing the clamp and filter sock from slipping off.
The large threaded end FM threads also removed on the lathe also for easy cleaning. JMO's.

 

[passedpawn]

Flip the flange upside down so the larger side is on the bottom.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Flip the flange upside down so the larger side is on the bottom.

I like the drop in design with the ring supporting the reducer that Ed designed vs going inverted large side down plus not dealing with rods sticking out.
As far as the mesh bag collapsing install a long SS spring butted to itself over a short SS slug this will allow the mesh bag to stay open exposing a large area for the hops to move around plus as a weight keeping it submerged. Simple and clean. JMO.

 

[passedpawn]

I like the drop in design with the ring supporting the reducer that Ed designed vs going inverted large side down plus not dealing with rods sticking out.
As far as the mesh bag collapsing install a long SS spring butted to itself over a short SS slug this will allow the mesh bag to stay open exposing a large area for the hops to move around plus as a weight keeping it submerged. Simple and clean. JMO.

Yea, that's great for those that want to fab a SS gizmo (i.e., not too many).

 

[Spartan1979]

I bought another reducer. I'm just going to add a few screws along the bottom edge to keep the clamp from slipping off. I also won't be placing the kettle lid on top anymore, I'll use Star San to sterilize it in the future. I'm new to Star San, so I don't always think of using it.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Yea, that's great for those that want to fab a SS gizmo (i.e., not too many).

Where is your sense of adventure in making DIY brewing items, it's in the hunt for success that counts?

 

[iaefebs]

When do you remove yours from the BK? I used one of these "spiders" a few times Mine has two legs rather then the 3 or 4 I see here. (Maybe I'm missing something but why do you need more then 2 legs.) My procedure was to add the bag holder, lift it to insert the immersion chiller, remove the bag when chilled, whirlpool (hand stir). Let sit 20 min to settle. My concern is with the the end of boil hop additions. If you don't use the bag they are in the kettle till you drain. If you use the bag they are removed 20 minutes earlier. I will be converting to a pump whirlpool soon and think you would want to remove the hop bag even earlier in the process. This would affect the EOB hop time even further.

 

[cl8n]

I just built mine, but made a few modifications:
-my pot is a 7.5 gallon turkey fryer and I usually have around 7 gallon pre-boil. In order to keep the reducer and bolt away from the hot liquid I installed the bolts at a downward angle. It now sits an inch or two above the top of kettle.
-I am using the 5 gallon hop bag. I have had good luck with it in the past just growing it in the boil loose.
-I used 6" long 3/8" carriage bolts, but drilled a 5/16" hole and they screw in tight. No need for washer and nuts.

I will post a picture after my next brew. Hopefully that will be tomorrow.

Here are pictures of my hop spider before the brew and in action.

 

[jbrookeiv]

Here are pictures of my hop spider before the brew and in action.

Very nice!

 

[jcav]

"Hey guys, just threw together a quick video on how I built my hop spider, thought some of you might be interested."



Great thread, thanks for posting, and for everyone responding. I'm going to make one for my boil kettle and take what I learned here for my project!

John

 

[jbrookeiv]

"Hey guys, just threw together a quick video on how I built my hop spider, thought some of you might be interested."



Great thread, thanks for posting, and for everyone responding. I'm going to make one for my boil kettle and take what I learned here for my project!

John

Glad you enjoyed the video! I'd love to get sticky status on this thread.

 

[EdWort]

I like the drop in design with the ring supporting the reducer that Ed designed vs going inverted large side down plus not dealing with rods sticking out..

Thanks. I commissioned a stainless welder friend to make it for me. For those without stainless welder friends, jbrookeiv's idea is clean, simple and can be done with one trip to Lowe's.

 

[milldoggy]

Hi all,

I am having trouble finding an online source for a CPVC reducer. I am in Bulgaria on assignment and do not trust local suppliers (I know, I'm a jerk). But in past I have discover you get told whatever they think you want to hear.

Does anyone have a source for ordering a CPVC reducer?

Thanks everyone.
Jon

I got a 6x4 cpvc reducer. It came from Harrington plastic. A friend got it for me, he builds plants, so he added to his account, not sure if they will sell one piece or not, but you can try.

http://www.harringtonplastics.com/

Btw, where in Bg are you, my swmbo is from schumen.

 

[toolboxdiver]

Great job

 

[Apoxbrew]

stupid question... what's DMS?

 

[ikonis]

Here's mine that I finished a week or so ago.
I got sick of the mesh bags collapsing and was worried about utilization.
It's 30x30 .013 SS mesh, sewn together with SS lock wire.
The top is a stainless sink strainer and some SS L bolts.

 

[Spartan1979]

Here's mine that I finished a week or so ago.
I got sick of the mesh bags collapsing and was worried about utilization.
It's 30x30 .013 SS mesh, sewn together with SS lock wire.
The top is a stainless sink strainer and some SS L bolts.

Nice!

 

[BrewBeemer]

How cool is that, great problem solved plus durable.
I bet stitching it required a few bad words out loud.

 

[Jeebas]

Here's mine that I finished a week or so ago.
I got sick of the mesh bags collapsing and was worried about utilization.
It's 30x30 .013 SS mesh, sewn together with SS lock wire.
The top is a stainless sink strainer and some SS L bolts.

did you use a needle to sew that stuff together? Was the mesh just in a sheet and you had to sew it together going up the cylinder and the bottom part?

If you have a parts list that would be awesome, I'm not entirely sure what SS lock wire is

 

[cl8n]

Here's mine that I finished a week or so ago.
I got sick of the mesh bags collapsing and was worried about utilization.
It's 30x30 .013 SS mesh, sewn together with SS lock wire.
The top is a stainless sink strainer and some SS L bolts.

Very cool!

 

[jbrookeiv]

Here's mine that I finished a week or so ago.
I got sick of the mesh bags collapsing and was worried about utilization.
It's 30x30 .013 SS mesh, sewn together with SS lock wire.
The top is a stainless sink strainer and some SS L bolts.

Damn, that looks SWEET! Wish I had the skills/tools to build something like that.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Damn, that looks SWEET! Wish I had the skills/tools to build something like that.

I'm sure you do....he didn't weld anything. It's bolted together....but you MUST wear gloves when sewing the screen. That stuff is so sharp that I cut my hand and didn't even know it until I saw a whole bunch of blood smeared all over my workbench as I was building my screened basket.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Damn, that looks SWEET! Wish I had the skills/tools to build something like that.

I'm sure you do....he didn't weld anything. It's bolted together....but you MUST wear gloves when sewing the screen. That stuff is so sharp that I cut my hand and didn't even know it until I saw a whole bunch of blood smeared all over my workbench as I was building my screened basket.

 

[-TH-]

I built a stainless one also, using 30 x 30 ss mesh from mcmaster.com. However I did not sew mine together, instead I used some scrap pieces of SS that I had laying around and clamped it where it overlapped. The bottom is just folded over a couple times. I have a hydraulic press that I used to press the folds nice and flat. As you can tell mine just hangs on the side of the pot. It works great.

EDIT: forgot to mention, I didn't wear gloves when handling the mesh and by the time I was done there was blood all over the thing. I soaked it overnight and ran it through the dishwasher before using.

 

[passedpawn]

OK, one of you guys have to start mass producing those SS hop bags, dammit. I'm pulling my wallet out right now. Makes my toilet flange job look silly.

 

[milldoggy]

well, I broke in my hop spider today. Worked awesome. I used a 6x4 cpvc coupler and a nylon bag from the LHBS. I held it up, full of hops and wort to let it drain. The bag did not slip off. I used a roto zip and carved a channel in the side for the hose clamp to sit in. Not one bit of hop material in the keggle.

 

[Seamus]

I built a stainless one also, using 30 x 30 ss mesh from mcmaster.com. However I did not sew mine together, instead I used some scrap pieces of SS that I had laying around and clamped it where it overlapped. The bottom is just folded over a couple times. I have a hydraulic press that I used to press the folds nice and flat. As you can tell mine just hangs on the side of the pot. It works great.

EDIT: forgot to mention, I didn't wear gloves when handling the mesh and by the time I was done there was blood all over the thing. I soaked it overnight and ran it through the dishwasher before using.

Nice work.