snowtires
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Step 1: Source all your files
Firstly you will want to go to https://github.com/ArdBir/Open-ArdBir
There you will find the latest file package which includes the latest arduino code as well as all the files you will need to build a PCB.
This how to is for the Danielxan Ardbir PCB which uses the arduino Uno.
You will first need to download the package and unzip it. Then go to the "PCB OpnArdBir" folder and find the BMP file that looks like the front of the board. There are some other files there for fancy silkscreens and whatnot but all you really need is the front, the file name is "OpnArdBir.bmp"
Step 2: Printing the image
This tutorial uses the toner transfer method. Here is a quick overview of how i did it, there are many methods and this was the only one i have tried. First source some Avery labels, i happened to have a package of these in my computer desk. http://www.avery.com/avery-product-selector/ps?locale=en_US
I used mailing labels, i don't think it matters what labels you use as you will not be using the labels, instead you are going to be printing on the backing paper. so rip all those labels off and load the backing paper into your printer so that it prints on to the shiny side where the labels were stuck on. Now open up that bmp file and hit print, making sure you are printing at 100%. I printed 2 on a page in case i made a mistake.
Step 3: Prepare the PCB
Now you have the printed image, you will need a blank PCB the size or larger then the printed image (atleased 3 1/4" x 4") Use an SOS pad for a very fine grit sandpaper and give it a good scrub to get the oxidized top layer off, then give it a wipe with alcohol. Homebrew will not work for this, you will need the pure alcohol for electronics. (I actually skipped this step because i couldn't find my alcohol)
Step 4: Transfer toner
Now you will cut out the paper and tape it to the PCB. Heat up an iron to full blast and rub it on there for a good 30 - 45 seconds, let it cool for about 30 seconds then carefully peel back the paper. The toner should completely come off the paper and stick to the copper. I failed the first attempt but the second one came out good, i think i tried to peel the paper off when the toner was still melty. You may even find you want to wait until everything cools off completely before peeling off the paper and see if that works even better, let me know.
Step 5: Etching the circuit board
After peeling the paper off the copper, check for any imperfections like missing toner, touch it up with a black sharpie marker. We will now give the PCB a bath in ferric chloride. I bought my bottle of this nasty stuff from a local electronics store where i bought my blank PCB's. let it soak, shake the container every now and again to move things around. In about 20 - 40 minutes you will see the copper eaten away everywhere. Now remove the PCB and properly dispose of the ferric chloride or put it back into a container for reuse at a later date. You will now have a circuit board with black toner all over it, some people say to use acetone to get the toner off, i used an SOS pad and that worked great.
Step 6: Drilling the holes for the components
I did not have a special drill for this, i simply used a 3/8 cordless drill. I used a very small drill bit that was just slightly larger then the largest components leads. The drill bit was too thin to fit in a 3/8 chuck so i wrapped the end of the bit with some scotch tape a few times. I was very surprised how well this worked, the drill bit is a standard wood/metal bit and each hole would drill out in about 2 seconds.
Step 7: Soldering Components
Inside the folder where we got the BMP image there is a list of materials, there are many places where these can be sourced, i live in Canada so i will leave this part up to you. Soldering is pretty easy but if you have never done it before maybe watch a youtube video on it first. I soldered my LCD directly to the circuit board but you way want to use a ribbon cable, Im not going to get into mounting the board and lcd into the brew panel, there are many ways to do that and i may post how i did mine once it is complete.
Step 8: Programming the Adruino UNO with ARDBIR.
There are many tutorials on this, all over the internet. If you have any specific questions about this then feel free to ask.
The cheap Chinese Arduino's work fine, but you will need to read this to make them work, they need an extra driver for your mac and possibly windows computer to read them.
http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/h...mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html
Here is the board I used
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-UNO-R3-A...383820?hash=item48724e5e0c:g:QKMAAOSwdpxUU0UP
Let me know if i left out anything obvious as well.
Firstly you will want to go to https://github.com/ArdBir/Open-ArdBir
There you will find the latest file package which includes the latest arduino code as well as all the files you will need to build a PCB.
This how to is for the Danielxan Ardbir PCB which uses the arduino Uno.
You will first need to download the package and unzip it. Then go to the "PCB OpnArdBir" folder and find the BMP file that looks like the front of the board. There are some other files there for fancy silkscreens and whatnot but all you really need is the front, the file name is "OpnArdBir.bmp"
Step 2: Printing the image
This tutorial uses the toner transfer method. Here is a quick overview of how i did it, there are many methods and this was the only one i have tried. First source some Avery labels, i happened to have a package of these in my computer desk. http://www.avery.com/avery-product-selector/ps?locale=en_US
I used mailing labels, i don't think it matters what labels you use as you will not be using the labels, instead you are going to be printing on the backing paper. so rip all those labels off and load the backing paper into your printer so that it prints on to the shiny side where the labels were stuck on. Now open up that bmp file and hit print, making sure you are printing at 100%. I printed 2 on a page in case i made a mistake.
Step 3: Prepare the PCB
Now you have the printed image, you will need a blank PCB the size or larger then the printed image (atleased 3 1/4" x 4") Use an SOS pad for a very fine grit sandpaper and give it a good scrub to get the oxidized top layer off, then give it a wipe with alcohol. Homebrew will not work for this, you will need the pure alcohol for electronics. (I actually skipped this step because i couldn't find my alcohol)
Step 4: Transfer toner
Now you will cut out the paper and tape it to the PCB. Heat up an iron to full blast and rub it on there for a good 30 - 45 seconds, let it cool for about 30 seconds then carefully peel back the paper. The toner should completely come off the paper and stick to the copper. I failed the first attempt but the second one came out good, i think i tried to peel the paper off when the toner was still melty. You may even find you want to wait until everything cools off completely before peeling off the paper and see if that works even better, let me know.
Step 5: Etching the circuit board
After peeling the paper off the copper, check for any imperfections like missing toner, touch it up with a black sharpie marker. We will now give the PCB a bath in ferric chloride. I bought my bottle of this nasty stuff from a local electronics store where i bought my blank PCB's. let it soak, shake the container every now and again to move things around. In about 20 - 40 minutes you will see the copper eaten away everywhere. Now remove the PCB and properly dispose of the ferric chloride or put it back into a container for reuse at a later date. You will now have a circuit board with black toner all over it, some people say to use acetone to get the toner off, i used an SOS pad and that worked great.
Step 6: Drilling the holes for the components
I did not have a special drill for this, i simply used a 3/8 cordless drill. I used a very small drill bit that was just slightly larger then the largest components leads. The drill bit was too thin to fit in a 3/8 chuck so i wrapped the end of the bit with some scotch tape a few times. I was very surprised how well this worked, the drill bit is a standard wood/metal bit and each hole would drill out in about 2 seconds.
Step 7: Soldering Components
Inside the folder where we got the BMP image there is a list of materials, there are many places where these can be sourced, i live in Canada so i will leave this part up to you. Soldering is pretty easy but if you have never done it before maybe watch a youtube video on it first. I soldered my LCD directly to the circuit board but you way want to use a ribbon cable, Im not going to get into mounting the board and lcd into the brew panel, there are many ways to do that and i may post how i did mine once it is complete.
Step 8: Programming the Adruino UNO with ARDBIR.
There are many tutorials on this, all over the internet. If you have any specific questions about this then feel free to ask.
The cheap Chinese Arduino's work fine, but you will need to read this to make them work, they need an extra driver for your mac and possibly windows computer to read them.
http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/h...mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html
Here is the board I used
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-UNO-R3-A...383820?hash=item48724e5e0c:g:QKMAAOSwdpxUU0UP
Let me know if i left out anything obvious as well.