How to best proceed with this keg / element?

[thomascirca]

I recently picked up this keg with an element installed on Craigslist for 50 bucks. It's a standard sanke keg with a 4500w heating element installed, although it's using a standard 110v prong. What would be the best steps to make this thing fully operational? I would like to switch over to electric brewing as I currently now live in an apartment complex, but I do have access to 240v (30A). Obviously I need to come up with a CGGI solution (probably a spa panel).

I'd be looking to brew 2.5 to 5 gallon batches, although I think most of my brews would be 2.5 gallons.

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

1 - Replace wiring to properly sized gauge for amp draw of element at 240v.
2 - Ensure grounding between your ground wire, kettle, and element.
3 - Figure out a way to insulate / water proof the connection so you don't have bare wires sitting on the outside of your element getting dripped on / accidentally touched.
4 - Test very carefully.
5 - Build a control panel so you can throttle your 4500w element because you won't need it to run 100%, even if you're boiling 13gal in a 50* basement.

-Kevin

 

[Takuie]

To enclose it, I would use. Double gang outdoor rated electrical box making sure it was metal and had a ground screw inside. With that being a bolted on element, doubt you could get it to fit into a single gang. This would enclose it, stopping accidental shock hazards, waterproof/spill proof it as well as give it adequate grounding.

Definately need something to throttle back wattage like BadNewsBrewery suggested. Make sure that is not a 110 volt element as well. I doubt it is since it's 4500 watt, I may be wrong but to best of my knowledge, they don't make 110v 4500 watt heating elements.

 

[TopherM]

I don't think he's saying it is a 110v 4500 watt element, it's just wired for a 110v plug. So it's a 4500 watt, 240v element wired for 110v that is now putting out 1125 watts at 110v.

It definitely looks a bit shoddy. I wouldn't mess around with electricity, liquids, and a improvised install. It needs an enclosure.

From there, check out the STILLDRAGON controller. I have both a big 240v PID controller that I use at home, then this Stilldragon controller that I built for 110v that I use on smaller batches and on mobile brews, like club group brew days. I made mine for about $60 total.

http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html

You could always just plug the element directly into the wall and manually control it like you would propane. You'll definitely want a GFCI inline between the kettle and the plug for safety either way.

Just note that the 4500 watts at 240v is 1125 watts at 110v, and that is going to take a LONGGGG time to heat anything over about 3-4 gallons in that keg. You may not even be able to reasonably get 5+ gallons to a boil. You may want to look into rewiring this for 240v if you intend on doing larger batches. The guy who sold this to you may have learned that firsthand That Stilldragon controller can also be wired to 240v if you want to go that route.

Good luck!

 

[wilserbrewer]

I'd be looking to brew 2.5 to 5 gallon batches, although I think most of my brews would be 2.5 gallons.

1125 watts in a keggle is not enough power to boil. Perhaps that was an HLT that was just used for heating?

If you will be primarily brewing 2.5 gallon batches in an apartment, I would not choose a keggle???

 

[thomascirca]

Thanks for the responses! I guess I should explain the brewing situation. I live in a small apartment building in which I have access to the basement / garage. That has a 240v 30A plug that I can use which is a NEMA-10-30p outlet (3 prong, not 4 prong). There really isn't room to safely do a propane setup (which I used to do) and natural gas is out of the question. That's why I have room for a keggle; it isn't true apartment setup.

The keg itself has a 4500w element in it, but it's hooked up to a standard plug meant for 110v. I did plug it in and it took forever to get the water up to a boil (like an hour). Ideally, I would be using 240v and be running at the full 4500w or 5500w if I decide to upgrade the element. I think setting up an enclosure to protect the element wiring either way would be a good first move.

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

I missed the part about 2.5 gallon boils. I'm guessing with 2.5 gallons in there, and the height of the element, you're going to barely have it covered... maybe?

 

[thomascirca]

I missed the part about 2.5 gallon boils. I'm guessing with 2.5 gallons in there, and the height of the element, you're going to barely have it covered... maybe?

2.5 covers the element actually, but not by much. I think I might drill another hole and lower the element / install a new one and use the existing hole to install a ball valve or something.

 

[atoughram]

Nice! Easily worth $50 bucks. Clean it up and wire one of the stilldragon boiler kits to it and you'll have a heck of a BK! Oven Cleaner will clean that keggle right up. Probably could use a weldless drain and ball valve too.