Help? Question about fermintation

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betho

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Late Friday evening (11:00) we finished and cooled the wort to 70 just like the instructions said. Topped off the primary bucket with 70* water and then sprinkled the packet of dry yeast over the wort. We are using a kit from our local brew shop. Stirred the yeast in, sealed the bucket, set he airlock and moved it to an area where it could happily do it's thing. Now it is Sunday morning, less than 36 hours later, and we are seeing no activity with the airlock and bubbling. The plan had been to wait until late tonight or tomorrow to transfer the beer into the secondary. We thought we understood that we should still see some slow bubbling at this point. Have I screwed up somewhere? Should I let it sit for the rest of the 2 - 3 days before transferring? Is there any chance the batch is still good?

Thanks - I appreciate the help.
 
First off—an absence of airlock activity is not a problem. Unless your beer was scalding and killed the yeast, there's no reason that it wouldn't ferment.

Second, why don't you look around this forum for information on secondarying? I strongly suggest that beginners should not secondary their beer; even if you ultimately decide to do so, the risk of infection for new brewers, combined with uncertainties about the process of fermentation, make transfers a risk.
 
Your beer is probably fine. Lack of bubbles in the airlock is not a sure sign of a problem. I would let it sit another 24 hours. If by then you don't see some sign of fermentation, bubbles on the surface of the wort, you may have used defective yeast and would want to pitch a new packet.
 
Experts chime in here but I'm almost certain you should not do anything. Give it time. You also shouldn't go to secondary until fermentation is complete if at all. I don't secondary. My first brew took 3-4 days till it started without a starter but it was a big pumpkin spiced ale. Hope that helps.
 
One packet of yeast for a 5gal batch isn't enough yeast, its referred to as being underpitched. You'll have to give the yeast more time to multiply and start doing there thing. Also unless your lagering, dry hopping, or adding fruit there is no need to transfer to secondary. Just let it sit for 3 to 4 weeks, get a couple of identical hydrometer readings, then bottle/keg.
 
+1 to BobC. Also, if you want to use dry yeast, consider rehydrating it, isntead of just dumping on top of the wort. You can find instructions on rehydration on the Safale website.
 
I respectfully disagree with both BobC and pericles. If you run through the calculations, there is sufficient yeast in a dry packet to pitch most beers. If you're doing a high gravity beer, you will likely need a starter or two packets.

And I've pitched yeast without hydrating with very good results.
 
Your right cullen there is sufficient yeast in a dry packet for every beer, even high gravity beers. I wasn't referring to what was sufficient I was referring to what would give the best results. Growing yeast leave byproducts, ie esters, shorten that growth period less byproducts.
 
Thanks, everyone! We are sitting still and waiting at the moment. Not sure I mentioned originally that I am using a kit for this pale ale. The idea for the secondary came from the recipe (as an option), things I have read, and the shop owner who I have been talking to quite a bit. I'm feeling a little torn on that one right now.

Thanks again and I'll keep you all posted!
 
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