Help my hefe

[nyer]

I brewed the byo hefeweizen recently. It was my first beer on my new clawhammer ebiab. This is also the first time I've done a step mash on a hefe. I fermented at 62 using a wyeast 3056 starter. My og was 1044 and was supposed to be 1049. It fermented for 10 days and I let the temp free rise into the low 70s the last couple of days. When I kegged it the sample tasted good. The beer is in the kegerator and on gas carbonating and now it smells like sulpher and it doesnt taste like a hefe. I have been off gassing it a couple times a day and it might be slightly better. It doesn't taste like its infected or anything, it just doesn't taste like a hefe. It's hard to describe.
Any thoughts on how to proceed? I'm not sure if I should pull it and let it warm to room temperature and see if the sulpher goes away. I have done this recipe before on my old system without issue.
In case crush matters. I set my mill with a credit card and double crushed. There was also a strange grey slime on the burner after the boil.

 

[McKnuckle]

The post-boil grey slime was probably precipitated proteins (nice alliteration there!) and other gunk, not likely to be an issue.

Cold conditioning does wonders. I brewed a hefe around Xmas that initially tasted a bit like plastic when it hit the keg. Over two, three, and now four weeks it has become glorious. Even though I hadn't planned for it to be a kristalweizen, it cleared brilliantly, and now has a wonderful flavor.

Like so many things brewing related, time is probably on your side.

 

[nyer]

I just poured a sample and stirred it with a piece of copper and it did help a little. I also dont even get a hint of banana or clove in this one. My old system did have a copper tube in the boil kettle and I used a copper immersion chiller. The new system has no copper at all. I'm brewing a lager tomorrow and will add a piece of copper to the boil.

 

[dmtaylor]

3056 yeast doesn't produce much if any clove or banana. It's a junk yeast that should no longer be sold IMO. I too have been duped by it. Next time maybe try 3068 or 3333, or go dry and try Lallemand Munich Classic. Those are a few I'll be trying next.

The sulfur will disappear in about 3 weeks all by itself. Nothing to worry about.

Cheers.

 

[Soulshine2]

I just poured a sample and stirred it with a piece of copper and it did help a little. I also dont even get a hint of banana or clove in this one. My old system did have a copper tube in the boil kettle and I used a copper immersion chiller. The new system has no copper at all. I'm brewing a lager tomorrow and will add a piece of copper to the boil.

interesting observation. can you split the boil to see the difference of copper use vs non-use?
I would also attribute the lack of banana and clove to the yeast . As stated above, use Lallemand Classic Munich if you want a good honest Hef . I used to use WB-06 made a couple good hefs with that, switched to the Classic Munich and it made a world of difference.

 

[nyer]

I spent an hour this morning reading about the copper. It wasn't my idea it came from finding a bunch of information that claims that copper is useful in the boil.

 

[Soulshine2]

I spent an hour this morning reading about the copper. It wasn't my idea it came from finding a bunch of information that claims that copper is useful in the boil.

copper is very important , something to do with eliminating impurities, otherwise the old moonshiners would have used something else . homes with well water were plumbed with it. Then CPVC was used .Nowadays its all PEX . Still a good idea to plumb in a few feet of copper to a modern system.

 

[RPh_Guy]

For a classic German weissbier (hefeweizen), the yeast choice is absolutely critical. The Weihenstephaner strain is best in my opinion, that's WY3068 or WLP300.

I recommend to under-pitch by a moderate amount. 0.25-0.5 cells/mL/°P.

Nutrients are good and will prevent the sulfur (H2S) aroma. I recommend using Wyeast yeast nutrient, mixing it with hot water, and adding it directly to the fermenter before filling.

Copper binds the H2S. It is actually NOT good to be using in brewing because it accelerates staling.

 

[Jag75]

Wlp300 is good stuff for sure .

 

[nyer]

Maybe things will be ok, the sulpher seems to be going away.