Help converting banjo burner to low pressure

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BrianL

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I'm trying to convert the 3 10" banjo burners I bought to low pressure propane so i can automate the brewstand I'm working on. I put together a low pressure regulator with a Marshall 2 stage regulator and drilled out the brass orifice to about .090", which according to the charts should be about 65,000 btu. I had blue flame tips, but they were only about 1/2 " tall and didn't seem to have much power behind them. I then drilled the orifice open to .110" and couldn't even get a blue flame. Is this pretty much the power I'm going to get with low pressure? Or did I miss a step?

I have my burner mounted about 3" below the kettles. I think I'll need to raise them if that's as good as they'll get.
 
I then drilled the orifice open to .110" and couldn't even get a blue flame. Is this pretty much the power I'm going to get with low pressure? Or did I miss a step?

Yikes. I think you may have over drilled them. When I converted mine, I ended up at .067 for a good flame. The high pressure orifices that come with them were drilled at .055.

Somewhere on this forum I had seen (and it looks like you did too) a mention that you should start at 60K BTUs on this chart and then increment from there. That would be starting at .094, which for me was a horribly yellow flame (too much propane). I didn't find this chart to be at all accurate for my burner conversion which would put mine at 25K BTUs at .067. I haven't done a BTU calculation on mine yet, but based on the flame (and ridiculous heat), I expect it is MUCH higher.

For that one that I over drilled, I just filled it with solder and re-drilled it to .055, then .063, then .067 testing it each time. I also targeted a half-open air intake, but during each test opened and closed it fully for a reasonable adjustment range.

I also thought that my direct-plumbed (boiler) burner might end up slightly different than my solenoid-valve-plumbed burners (resistance?), but they ended up being optimal with the same orifice size.

--
Josh
 
Thanks for the info. I'll start the experiment over with the two remaining orifices I have left. I'm pretty sure I can order a replacment....if not, I'll go with the solder.
 
I am very confused, the one thing I haven't been able to wrap my head around is this conversation of redrilling the orifices for low pressure conversion. What orifices needs to be drilled? Is this referring to every hole in the banjo burner where the flame emits?
 
The orifice is the small hole in the brass fitting that is screwed into the burner casting. You can drill your own or buy fittings drilled for the low pressure propane or natural gas. The burner openings in the cast iron are not modified in any of the pressure ranges, just the brass gas fitting.
 
The man himself, thanks Kladue!

The easier route seems to just buy the low pressure orifice for propane. I didn't see many options but I found these things, should work?

http://www.brewershardware.com/Valve-and-LPG-Orifice-for-BURN10.html
Valve-and-LPG-Orifice-for-BURN10.html
 
The "gas oriface" that is refered to in many discusison on this forum is at the end of gas hose (or hard plumbing) where it connects to the burner. For most burner/ gas hose combinations there is a female flare or NPT fitting on the end of the hose. The oriface fitting itself is a small brass part that looks something like a reducer or thread converter that screws into that. The oriface fitting is what threads into the burner right in the middle of the inlet side, in the same plane as the air adjuster disk if you will. If you unscrew the oriface fitting from the burner and look at the end you'll see a very small hole. That small hole is the actual oriface that everyone is talking sizes about. It's the primary control, along with regulator pressure, of how much gas enters the burner and probably more importantly what velocity the gas enters at. That is because these burners rely on gas velocity thru the throat of the burner casting to create a venturi effect that pulls the air in to mix with the gas. The air adjuster disk is then a fine control over the fuel/air ratio.

If you're familar with how a carburator on a gasoline engine work, this is the exact opposite. In a gasoline engine the piston downstroke sucks the air into the cylinder through the throat of the carburator creating a venturi effect that pulls the liquid gasoline into the air, creating the air fuel mixture. Here the carburator jet does the same thing as the propane oriface in the burner. In fact another name for the jet is, not surprizingly, an oriface. The more air that flows through the carburator throught the more gasoline that gets pulled in. In the propane burner the pressurized gas flowing out the oriface pulls the air in through the air disk creating an air/fuel mixture in the same way.

I hope that explains it a little more clearly. Once you gain and understanding of how these things work they're really surprizingly simple devices.
 
That valve is the way to go, it offers adjustment along with correct size orifice for low pressure, easier to do than drilling if you are not equipped with the correct tools.

Hey everyone, did that valve work as planned? I got a 10" high pressure also that needs to be knocked down a bit in BTU's for sure. So how successfull is the valve/orifice adapter?
 
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