Harvesting dry yeast (Lutra) - Is it worth it?

[Matheos]

So I am currently fermenting my first ever beer using Lutra Kveik. The reason it is my first ever is because of the price per packet for Lutra available in Finland. There is only one single home brew store in the country which imports it and they're selling for 10€/pkt (roughly 10USD nowadays). For a packet of dry yeast I feel that it's quite a lot, and that is not even considering that the store in question is too far away for pick-up and the minimum postal fee is also quite high! More than half of the money spent on the ingredients for this beer went into that one packet. In comparison, I can purchase US-05 for around 3,50-4€...

So this is the reason I am considering harvesting this yeast after fermentation has finished... I've heard harvesting dry yeast is rarely worth it though? Can anyone point me to some good tutorials/up to date instructions on how this should be done, IF you even think it is worth my effort... As I said, it is just because of the massive price difference compared to other yeasts that I am even considering it.

Alternatively, anyone know of a good international (Europe) home brew store from which I could get a few packs for cheaper (per pkt)?

 

[McMullan]

Have you tried your Swedish/EU neighbours next door? Harvesting and repitching dry yeast is fine. They just become wet yeast and need to be treated a bit differently, e.g., pitched fresh in aerated wort. Yeast nutrients are probably a good idea, to help maintain yeast health. When selecting a yeast strain consider what you want to brew.

 

[Matheos]

Have you tried your Swedish/EU neighbours next door? Harvesting and repitching dry yeast is fine. They just become wet yeast and need to be treated a bit differently, e.g., pitched fresh in aerated wort. Yeast nutrients are probably a good idea, to help maintain yeast health. When selecting a yeast strain consider what you want to brew.

Yes I have considered our Swedish neighbours, though their prices, at least from the stores I have checked, are even slightly more expensive + the probably larger shipping fee. So that too is not feasible :/

Though good to hear that harvesting is not an impossibility... I have never done it before though and don't have a lot of extra equipment for making starters etc. You don't happen to have any particular "how to" in mind which would be rather simple and not require too much extra tools? Yeast nutrient I am obviously willing to get. Aerating the worth should not be a problem also, I do this already with my dry yeasts by transfering from my kettle to fermentor from higher ground --> splashing

 

[McMullan]

Jam jars work fine. Collect the yeast slurry after transferring the beer. Repitching fresh requires less and helps maintain viable yeast cells. Experiment.

 

[HopSing]

I harvest dry yeast all the time including Nottingham, US-05, 34/70, Lutra, etc.. In addition to saving some money, from my results, they actually perform better 2 or 3 generations deep. From each harvest I typically fill 3 or 4 pint size mason jars with slurry. Just boil the jars, lids, and bands for a few minutes. I fill the jars with the boiled water, put the lid on and let cool (typically 24 hours) at room temp. I'll dump 2 or 3 of jars of the cooled boiled water into the slurry to thin it out then ladel into the jars. Seal them up and put them in the fridge. Check them for the next 7 days to ensure they're not building pressure. They'll keep for 2+ months at least. For best results, try to harvest from beers that are under 1.055 OG and have a lighter flavor profile, but I've broken that "rule" without issue.

With beasts like Lutra, you won't even need a starter unless you're making a really big beer. I just direct pitched a pint I harvested in August of Lutra slurry I warmed up to room temp yesterday afternoon and it was off and running 4 hours later. Take the pint jar out of the fridge at the beginning of brew day. Pour off about 1/2 of the liquid (the harvest yeasted will settle down to about 15-25mm, the rest will be diluted beer). By the time you're ready to pitch, it should be room temp or within 10F of your wort temp. Gentle swirl to mix, then pitch. Remember to crack the lid of the jar a bit when you take it out of the fridge since it will build pressure when it gets warmer.

~HopSing.

 

[khannon]

See this thread Drying Kveik. Fast and Easy method I have done so with Voss and Opshaug. Make a (big?) starter, dry most of it, make your beer and have enough dried yeast to last you for a while.

 

[hotbeer]

In comparison, I can purchase US-05 for around 3,50-4€...

If you can get other yeasts for less I'm not sure why you wouldn't use them when applicable to whatever beer you are brewing.

However any dry yeast once used is now just like liquid yeast once used and AFAIK, requires just the same needs for saving or re-pitching immediately.

Not sure I see a reason to dry it again. That seems just a thing to do just to say you did it.

 

[khannon]

If you can get other yeasts for less I'm not sure why you wouldn't use them when applicable to whatever beer you are brewing.

However any dry yeast once used is now just like liquid yeast once used and AFAIK, requires just the same needs for saving or re-pitching immediately.

Not sure I see a reason to dry it again. That seems just a thing to do just to say you did it.

I've used Opshaug Kveik 2 and a half years after drying, and sent some to friends, both of which would be much harder with liquid. For me it was just to have some more yeast options without worrying too much about it. for the OP, it sounds like they could save some money and increase their brewing options.

All it really took was growing a starter, pouring slurry onto parchment paper, and sticking it in the oven for a day or two with the light on. So it's not like slanting yeast or preparing it for freezing. I've only seen this done with Kveik strains though.

 

[AlexKay]

If you can get other yeasts for less I'm not sure why you wouldn't use them when applicable to whatever beer you are brewing.

However any dry yeast once used is now just like liquid yeast once used and AFAIK, requires just the same needs for saving or re-pitching immediately.

Not sure I see a reason to dry it again. That seems just a thing to do just to say you did it.

++. Remember that "just the same needs" also includes oxygenating your wort and possibly adding nutrients (zinc), both things that are more-or-less skippable with dry yeast.

I'd be hard-pressed to pay for Lutra when I could get something else (US05 or 34/70 or Nottingham or ...) that'll make a clean(er) beer without overmuch worry about temperature control, for less than half the price.

 

[McMullan]

On the minor point of temperature control, it's 2022, where there's no shortage of cheap to free fridges, STC1000 controllers and a short heat cable. Those afraid of wires can buy an Inkbird for a little more. Please do, if you are. Temperature control, in most cases, is a lame argument for not using better brewer's yeast.

 

[khannon]

On the minor point of temperature control, it's 2022, where there's no shortage of cheap to free fridges, STC1000 controllers and a short heat cable. Those afraid of wires can buy an Inkbird for a little more. Please do, if you are. Temperature control, in most cases, is a lame argument for not using better brewer's yeast.

While this is entirely true for most parts of the US, the OP is not from the US, so maybe there is not an endless supply of cheap to free fridges where they are from.
Also of note, electricity isn't cheap, at least around here. I have seen a ~60% cost increase in my bill in the last year while I am using fewer KWh than the same time last year. running an extra fridge can get costly.

All that said, Temp control for fermentation is a great idea and generally makes better/more consistent beer across more styles.

 

[McMullan]

While this is entirely true for most parts of the US, the OP is not from the US, so maybe there is not an endless supply of cheap to free fridges where they are from.
Also of note, electricity isn't cheap, at least around here. I have seen a ~60% cost increase in my bill in the last year while I am using fewer KWh than the same time last year. running an extra fridge can get costly.

All that said, Temp control for fermentation is a great idea and generally makes better/more consistent beer across more styles.

The OP is in Finland so - this time of year - probably won't even need to plug in a fermentation fridge. Just a heating source. Bit like the fermentation fridges in my unheated area of my basement, which rarely go on this time of year, because I unplug the 'cooling' side when ambient does the job. More stable control that way, too. Less over-shooting. A bit like unplugging the 'heating' side during the summer months. 'Ping pong' is getting more expensive, though.

 

[hottpeper13]

You guys make me laugh If you want clean beers brewed with Lutra or Voss you need temp control and time. If you want inferior beer in 3-7 days then by all means ferment at 90*,but wait there's more,don't you need a way to get to 90*? I think the off flavor everyone talks about is because they don;t chill to cold break.

 

[Matheos]

Haha I feel this thread has gone a bit off topic but let me assess the tips and questions that have arisen.

The reason I used this rather expensive Lutra this time was because I, like many others, wanted to try a pseudo lager with it. Our inside temp is rather high, and we cannot affect it (23deg C +), so real lager yeasts may not perform too well. Though I have twice fermented lager yeasts warm, once here and once in my old place. Both with OK results. This time I wanted to try out Lutra though (hype).

I live in an apartment with little to no extra room, so a spare fridge is not an option even if I would get one for free (which I am not too sure is so easy here). It is unfortunate, but I simply do not have the space right now to implement temperature control into my brewing process, no matter the yeast.

Depending on the result of this brew I may opt for warm fermented lager yeast in the future (because of the much lower price), though as I said, this is me trying out Lutra. It is purely because of the price, if I find this yeast really good, I would want to harvest it to save some money. I won't be harvesting any 3-4€ US-05 or S-189 obviously, not worth the hazzle.

Lastly, thanks for all your tips regarding the actual harvesting though I might give it a shot just to try it out, though I am very unfamiliar with making starters and such things. I guess I will need to read up a bit, but the first step of putting slurry into jars seems easy enough

 

[Matheos]

Pour off about 1/2 of the liquid (the harvest yeasted will settle down to about 15-25mm, the rest will be diluted beer)

So are you saying you also throw in the "yeast residue"? I thought that once the slurry settles in the jars it will be kind of three layers, beer, yeast, residue? I may of course have misunderstood something as I am new to this though.
And one jar is enough? This method of yours seems to be the easiest by far. Only downsides is space for jars and lower shelf life than drying etc.

 

[McMullan]

Haha I feel this thread has gone a bit off topic but let me assess the tips and questions that have arisen.

The reason I used this rather expensive Lutra this time was because I, like many others, wanted to try a pseudo lager with it. Our inside temp is rather high, and we cannot affect it (23deg C +), so real lager yeasts may not perform too well. Though I have twice fermented lager yeasts warm, once here and once in my old place. Both with OK results. This time I wanted to try out Lutra though (hype).

I live in an apartment with little to no extra room, so a spare fridge is not an option even if I would get one for free (which I am not too sure is so easy here). It is unfortunate, but I simply do not have the space right now to implement temperature control into my brewing process, no matter the yeast.

Depending on the result of this brew I may opt for warm fermented lager yeast in the future (because of the much lower price), though as I said, this is me trying out Lutra. It is purely because of the price, if I find this yeast really good, I would want to harvest it to save some money. I won't be harvesting any 3-4€ US-05 or S-189 obviously, not worth the hazzle.

Lastly, thanks for all your tips regarding the actual harvesting though I might give it a shot just to try it out, though I am very unfamiliar with making starters and such things. I guess I will need to read up a bit, but the first step of putting slurry into jars seems easy enough

So no unheated storage/lockup space or garage?

 

[Matheos]

So no unheated storage/lockup space or garage?

Nope. We have the pleasure (though not in the case of brewing) of having the storage as warm as the rest of the building. So no inside space is cold in our building. Rather new building, so I guess that's why the "old school" cold storage spaces can't be found. Additionally we don't have a garage, carpark is outside

 

[McMullan]

Carpark outside, in Finland? You got an engine warmer? You could ferment authentic lagers in the car this time of year. With the right timing you could be authentic lagering, too, in a month or so

 

[Matheos]

Carpark outside, in Finland? You got an engine warmer? You could ferment authentic lagers in the car this time of year. With the right timing you could be authentic lagering, too, in a month or so

Haha yep. Outside car parks are not unusual here. And yes engine warmers as well as cabin heaters are almost a given here (when you buy a car you pretty much assume it's got an engine heater pre-installed), though not all houses' parkings provide outlets so some have to start their cars cold every morning... Imagine that, in the winter when it can drop to around -30C

You are probably right about fermenting lagers in the car, though I think that season has unfortunately already passed here. The temps will drop below freezing during the nights here soon which I suppose is a bit too cold, even for lagers?