Joewalla88
Well-Known Member
My grain mill broke and I need a new one. What's the difference between these two? Does anyone know?
Good looking out. I didnt look that closely at it yet. Thanks.The Cereal Killer has a good reputation, and that's a very good price for it, but beware. The seller only has one rating, and it's negative. I wouldn't buy from him.
I can't speak for the second one there. It looks like a generic version of the Cereal Killer.
I have a Monster Mill and put some of this edge trim on it. Not that it is any more suitable than any other trim, just an example.I'm looking for the rubber protector strips on the top. Anyone know where to buy these separate for the Monster Mill hopper?
Ive got both of these mills along with a kegco 3 roller. (which we use at my nanobrewery every week for a 3bbl system.)My grain mill broke and I need a new one. What's the difference between these two? Does anyone know?View attachment 645236View attachment 645237
The cheaper mills come with these strips... No good reason MM shouldnt be providing them for what they charge.I'm looking for the rubber protector strips on the top. Anyone know where to buy these separate for the Monster Mill hopper?
BTW the rubber strip from the kegco/maltmunchier mills fits the MM hoppers perfectly as I have the MM3 hopper extension on my kegco 3 roller and installed the rubber guard from the base hopper onto it. you might be able to get the item as a replacement part from one of them.I'm looking for the rubber protector strips on the top. Anyone know where to buy these separate for the Monster Mill hopper?
its also avaliable on ebay sold under the malt master brand name actually engraved on its side.Has anyone tried this one? The Crop Duster?
https://www.austinhomebrew.com/The-Crop-Duster_p_10129.html
According to the description, the tightest gap is allegedly 0.025". That may work just fine for most small kernel grain such as wheat, oats, and rye, and flaked stuff, I mill them at that gap. But if you ever want to use Triticale or other very tiny kernel grain, it won't crush/mill them enough.Has anyone tried this one? The Crop Duster?
https://www.austinhomebrew.com/The-Crop-Duster_p_10129.html
I mostly liked the big hopper, but it might just be the way the picture looks.According to the description, the tightest gap is allegedly 0.025". That may work just fine for most small kernel grain such as wheat, oats, and rye, and flaked stuff, I mill them at that gap. But if you ever want to use Triticale or other very tiny kernel grain, it won't crush/mill them enough.
Rolls are "only" 5" wide and 1.3" diameter. Not a big deal.
Now 304 stainless is not the best material for rollers, but chances are average homebrewers won't wear them down unless they mill rice and (flaked) corn, habitually.
I too think it's the viewing angle.I mostly liked the big hopper, but it might just be the way the picture looks.
its actually the ceareal killer/hullwrecker rebranded once again but this is the model with the softer stainless rollers... should be fine, ideal if you condition your grain.There's one on Amazon by a brand called ferroday. Has anyone used one of those? It has good reviews. I'm in a bit of a budget right now, so this might be ok.
I had some left over beverage tubing that I sliced and fit over the edges of my mill. Used 4 short pieces so it all fit together well.I'm looking for the rubber protector strips on the top. Anyone know where to buy these separate for the Monster Mill hopper?
I recommend a cereal killer mill like this one.So what type of rollers would you Rreccomend?
the non stainless.... they are hardened and will stay sharp longer. stainless is softer like the soft barley crusher roller which many learned wear down and cause the rollers not to turn anymore.So what type of rollers would you Rreccomend?
That's good to know, thanks. I think that's what happened to my old one.the non stainless.... they are hardened and will stay sharp longer. stainless is softer like the soft barley crusher roller which many learned wear down and cause the rollers not to turn anymore.
What do you mean by “condition” your grain?its actually the ceareal killer/hullwrecker rebranded once again but this is the model with the softer stainless rollers... should be fine, ideal if you condition your grain.
some home brewers spray their grain with water before milling to make the grain moist. it can allow you to mill without as much dust. It may have another advantage too but im not sure what since Ive never tried it.What do you mean by “condition” your grain?
I mill and fill the mash tun outside, so dust is not an issue. I also underlet the grist in the mash tun, it creates no dust.It may have another advantage too but im not sure what since Ive never tried it.
Underlet?I mill and fill the mash tun outside, so dust is not an issue. I also underlet the grist in the mash tun, it creates no dust.
The only time I conditioned grain I ended up with a lot of starchy goo stuck to the knurled rollers when all was done. Was a bit of a chore to get it off. The milled grist visually didn't look any better than without conditioning. Haven't repeated it since.
Underletting is the process of adding your water to the bottom of the mash tun, usually via the drain valve. This is as opposed to dumping it in from the top.Underlet?
Underlet?
pouring dry grain into mash tun and filling with mash water from the bottom valve... This avoids having to stir to dough in. or let air touch your mash once you have mixed the water with the grain if its an airtight mash tun. It works well for smaller recirculating systems but if not stirring or recirculating the liquid is continuously cooled as it travels up from the bottom through the much cooler grain resulting in much lower temps at the top of the grainbed than the bottom where the grain and tun has been preheated= uneven mash temps. I tried this with 3bbl mashes and the temp different from top to bottom was almost 20 degrees! with smaller mashes the effects will be much less drastic but worth mentioning if you dont recirculate or stir.Underlet?
Not sure, but I do LOB and mill directly into my mash tun while pumping CO2 in through the bottom valve. It doesn't purge all oxygen by any means, but it does create an oxygen deficient environment in the mash tun, which will help. For any oxygen that does get/stay in the mash tun or is in the husks, that's why we use oxygen scavengers in the strike water (sulfite, ascorbic acid, gallotannins, and sometimes sauergut). It's very tough to eliminate all oxygen via equipment and process, so the scavengers pick up the slack.Now if you condition your grain with water before milling it, does that effect said oxidation? how about that light and fluffy grainbed with more air in it? or does the concern not become a thing until mash temps are reached? I know a steak will oxidize and turn color from it regardless when left out uncovered.. It would just seem that more flavor could be lost from the grain through the surface evaporation but im just guessing here
I am thinking your process is not typical though..Not sure, but I do LOB and mill directly into my mash tun while pumping CO2 in through the bottom valve. It doesn't purge all oxygen by any means, but it does create an oxygen deficient environment in the mash tun, which will help. For any oxygen that does get/stay in the mash tun or is in the husks, that's why we use oxygen scavengers in the strike water (sulfite, ascorbic acid, gallotannins, and sometimes sauergut). It's very tough to eliminate all oxygen via equipment and process, so the scavengers pick up the slack.
Pumping gas (CO2 or nitrogen) into the mash tun, or even truly purging it is not uncommon in the LOB crowd. Of course, different equipment limitations drive each person's process, but it's super easy to hook up a CO2 bottle to the mash tun valve to give yourself a leg up in the battle against oxygen.I am thinking your process is not typical though..
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