Joewalla88
Well-Known Member
My grain mill broke and I need a new one. What's the difference between these two? Does anyone know?
Grain mill question
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Actual links would have been helpful, I can only guess the minimum difference is the one on the right doesn't have mounting plate or a crank. Other things worth looking for are ball bearing vs sleeves, whether the rollers have been hardened, etc.
fwiw, I bought a Cereal Killer (the one on the left) this year (to replace a well-used Barley Crusher) and it works great, quite happy with it actually...
Cheers!
fwiw, I bought a Cereal Killer (the one on the left) this year (to replace a well-used Barley Crusher) and it works great, quite happy with it actually...
Cheers!
Carolina_Matt
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The Cereal Killer has a good reputation, and that's a very good price for it, but beware. The seller only has one rating, and it's negative. I wouldn't buy from him.
I can't speak for the second one there. It looks like a generic version of the Cereal Killer.
I can't speak for the second one there. It looks like a generic version of the Cereal Killer.
Joewalla88
Well-Known Member
Good looking out. I didnt look that closely at it yet. Thanks.
Joewalla88
Well-Known Member
Not sure why, but I'm a little sketched out by the black hardware on the generic one. I wish I could just buy a new dead roller for my mill instead of buying a whole new one, but it just doesnt seem worth it, and since I got it used theres no warranty.
I'm looking for the rubber protector strips on the top. Anyone know where to buy these separate for the Monster Mill hopper?
fwiw, I fabricated a hopper extension for my original Barley Crusher mill (now using it on my Cereal Killer) and because the aluminum sheet edges were fabulously sharp I picked up some plastic sliding binder bars (usually used with a clear report cover), mitered the ends to fit together and relieving spots with poking rivets...
I put the bars on in 2011 and they're still doing their thing to keep me from letting blood in the brewery
Cheers!
I put the bars on in 2011 and they're still doing their thing to keep me from letting blood in the brewery
Cheers!
Robert65
Major Obvious (recently promoted)
I have a Monster Mill and put some of this edge trim on it. Not that it is any more suitable than any other trim, just an example.
Trim-Lok Rubber Edge Trim - Flexible Neoprene Edge Protector for Sharp and Rough Surfaces - Easy Install, Push-On Edge Guard for Sharp Edges, Cars, Boats, Machinery, and More - Fits 1/16" Edge, 1/2" Leg Length, 25' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NL49DCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G5THDbGG150AC
These mills should all come with edge trim. If manufacturers are listening.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
Ive got both of these mills along with a kegco 3 roller. (which we use at my nanobrewery every week for a 3bbl system.)
STAY AWAY from the one on the right... I bought that one and it was total junk that didnt even bolt together.. seller didnt want to even pay for return shipping when I got my refund. the one on the left is the same Generic mill as kegco and keg king also rebrands and sells along with INBEV (with thier Hullwrecker). It IS a great mill with ball bearings, superior to the cheaper bronze bushing mills like the barley crusher and even MM2 (Ive had a cerealkiller for 6 years with zero issues)
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augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
The cheaper mills come with these strips... No good reason MM shouldnt be providing them for what they charge.
I would also be wary that an Ebay seller is actually selling the Cereal Killer rather than a cheaper knock-off and calling it the Cereal Killer. It has happened that a seller will take advertisement from other products to show in their listing, making it is look like their product.
As said earlier. When using Ebay you have to look at reviews and ratings. I only buy with a 95% or better rating with lots of reviews.
As said earlier. When using Ebay you have to look at reviews and ratings. I only buy with a 95% or better rating with lots of reviews.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
^ yes this has happened to me once or twice in my 2000+ ebay purchases including this mill mentioned on the right with had photos of both different mills in the description. I was thankful for the purchase protection.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
BTW the rubber strip from the kegco/maltmunchier mills fits the MM hoppers perfectly as I have the MM3 hopper extension on my kegco 3 roller and installed the rubber guard from the base hopper onto it. you might be able to get the item as a replacement part from one of them.
Joewalla88
Well-Known Member
Has anyone tried this one? The Crop Duster?
https://www.austinhomebrew.com/The-Crop-Duster_p_10129.html
https://www.austinhomebrew.com/The-Crop-Duster_p_10129.html
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
its also avaliable on ebay sold under the malt master brand name actually engraved on its side.
According to the description, the tightest gap is allegedly 0.025". That may work just fine for most small kernel grain such as wheat, oats, and rye, and flaked stuff, I mill them at that gap. But if you ever want to use Triticale or other very tiny kernel grain, it won't crush/mill them enough.
Rolls are "only" 5" wide and 1.3" diameter. Not a big deal.
Now 304 stainless is not the best material for rollers, but chances are average homebrewers won't wear them down unless they mill rice and (flaked) corn, habitually.
Joewalla88
Well-Known Member
I mostly liked the big hopper, but it might just be the way the picture looks.
I too think it's the viewing angle.
Nothing wrong with topping it up midway or toward the end...
My MM2 without a hopper extension fits right between 2 shelves in the rack. I really need to put some tape or guard along that top edge.
Joewalla88
Well-Known Member
There's one on Amazon by a brand called ferroday. Has anyone used one of those? It has good reviews. I'm in a bit of a budget right now, so this might be ok.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
its actually the ceareal killer/hullwrecker rebranded once again but this is the model with the softer stainless rollers... should be fine, ideal if you condition your grain.
Joewalla88
Well-Known Member
So what type of rollers would you Rreccomend?
sakeyfour
Well-Known Member
I had some left over beverage tubing that I sliced and fit over the edges of my mill. Used 4 short pieces so it all fit together well.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/o87z25Y4JEWNK2CDA
not a close up but you can see the tubing.
Robert65
Major Obvious (recently promoted)
Notice Bobby at Brew Hardware sells this edging by the foot
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/edgingft.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/edgingft.htm
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
I recommend a cereal killer mill like this one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cereal-Kil...181964?hash=item28855d63cc:g:CWkAAOSw6eBdg4oU
or a kegco mill (one and the same really) 2 or 3 roller really doesnt matter.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
the non stainless.... they are hardened and will stay sharp longer. stainless is softer like the soft barley crusher roller which many learned wear down and cause the rollers not to turn anymore.
Joewalla88
Well-Known Member
That's good to know, thanks. I think that's what happened to my old one.
What do you mean by “condition” your grain?
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
some home brewers spray their grain with water before milling to make the grain moist. it can allow you to mill without as much dust. It may have another advantage too but im not sure what since Ive never tried it.
Conditioning (dampening) helps preserve the integrity of grain husks through enhanced pliability, has the added benefit of markedly reduced dust production, and can often allow a tighter mill gap...
Cheers!
Cheers!
I mill and fill the mash tun outside, so dust is not an issue. I also underlet the grist in the mash tun, it creates no dust.
The only time I conditioned grain I ended up with a lot of starchy goo stuck to the knurled rollers when all was done. Was a bit of a chore to get it off. The milled grist visually didn't look any better than without conditioning. Haven't repeated it since.
Underlet?
Cavpilot2000
Well-Known Member
I condition my grain. If you are getting a mealy mess, you are probably adding too much water. The ideal amount leaves the husks feeling "leathery", not damp.
If I don't condition, I find I get a ton of dust sticking via static to the underside of my mill and its mounting board, so when I move it, it drops messy dust all over. No dust with a light conditioning.
Also, I have a cheap mill and the rollers aren't the best, so conditioning helps the rollers get a better grip on the grain. If fully dry, it will sometimes just sit on top of the rollers and not get pulled in.
If I don't condition, I find I get a ton of dust sticking via static to the underside of my mill and its mounting board, so when I move it, it drops messy dust all over. No dust with a light conditioning.
Also, I have a cheap mill and the rollers aren't the best, so conditioning helps the rollers get a better grip on the grain. If fully dry, it will sometimes just sit on top of the rollers and not get pulled in.
Cavpilot2000
Well-Known Member
Underletting is the process of adding your water to the bottom of the mash tun, usually via the drain valve. This is as opposed to dumping it in from the top.
The advantages are mainly if you are trying to follow Low Oxygen Brewing (aka LODO) practices because it doesn't aerate your strike water like dumping in from the top does.
The other advantage, even if you aren't doing Low-Oxygen, is that you don't have to lift and dump your strike water - you just connect a hose from your kettle valve to your mash tun valve and let gravity or a pump transfer it.
Underlet is filling the mash tun from the bottom. Probably by pumping into the ball valve drain.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
pouring dry grain into mash tun and filling with mash water from the bottom valve... This avoids having to stir to dough in. or let air touch your mash once you have mixed the water with the grain if its an airtight mash tun. It works well for smaller recirculating systems but if not stirring or recirculating the liquid is continuously cooled as it travels up from the bottom through the much cooler grain resulting in much lower temps at the top of the grainbed than the bottom where the grain and tun has been preheated= uneven mash temps. I tried this with 3bbl mashes and the temp different from top to bottom was almost 20 degrees! with smaller mashes the effects will be much less drastic but worth mentioning if you dont recirculate or stir.
Now if you condition your grain with water before milling it, does that effect said oxidation? how about that light and fluffy grainbed with more air in it? or does the concern not become a thing until mash temps are reached? I know a steak will oxidize and turn color from it regardless when left out uncovered.. It would just seem that more flavor could be lost and more oxidation occuring from the grain through the surface evaporation but im just guessing here
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Cavpilot2000
Well-Known Member
Not sure, but I do LOB and mill directly into my mash tun while pumping CO2 in through the bottom valve. It doesn't purge all oxygen by any means, but it does create an oxygen deficient environment in the mash tun, which will help. For any oxygen that does get/stay in the mash tun or is in the husks, that's why we use oxygen scavengers in the strike water (sulfite, ascorbic acid, gallotannins, and sometimes sauergut). It's very tough to eliminate all oxygen via equipment and process, so the scavengers pick up the slack.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
I am thinking your process is not typical though..
Cavpilot2000
Well-Known Member
Pumping gas (CO2 or nitrogen) into the mash tun, or even truly purging it is not uncommon in the LOB crowd. Of course, different equipment limitations drive each person's process, but it's super easy to hook up a CO2 bottle to the mash tun valve to give yourself a leg up in the battle against oxygen.
I’ll have to read up on LOB. First I’m hearing of i, but just BIAB. Of course, i go in brewing spurts over the years where my interest waxes and wanes.
I thought oxygen was good pre-fermentation! I guess this must just be post mash, pre-fermentation.
I thought oxygen was good pre-fermentation! I guess this must just be post mash, pre-fermentation.
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