GE FCM7SHWW (FCM7SHBWW) 7.0 cubic foot chest freezer

[xaq]

I'm building a draft box out of a new GE 7 cu ft chest freezer. The much-modified FCM7SUWW (and FCM7DUWW, to a lesser degree) model is no longer being manufactured, and I thought I'd offer some newer information for the current model. It is still possible to get the SU model, but existing stock will not last indefinitely.

I purchased mine on sale (now over) from Home Depot, delivered, for $178 plus tax. I'll be adding:

Product links (to the GE website for reference)
Measurements (stated by GE, and actual)
Comparisons (to the older SU and DU models, mostly in the measurement category where I can draw conclusive and factual contrasts)
Pictures (where possible)
Build notes (with pictures!)

That said, I'm building a...

Keezer? As much as it's the standard term, I never liked it. It's awkward from the start, as a K(eg chest fr)EEZER. We're not freezing any kegs here.

Why not:

Draft Box. We're dispensing DRAFT beer (or soda) from a BOX. It used to be a chest freezer, sure, but we've emasculated the thermoregulator to take the freeze out of it, and it's a box that keeps things cold now. Simple name, based on the function of the final build.

Don't like that? Want something more catchy?

Beezer. BEE(r chest free)ZER. I know, it's not a big step up from keezer, but it does have BEEs.
Brewzer. We're BREW(ing, we're using a chest free)ZER. We may or may not throw a carboy into the temperature-regulated box for fermentation. Also sounds more boss.
Kegzer. You have to have the 'ZER' from freezer in it? Fine. We're putting KEG(s into a free)ZER. We don't call a 'kegerator' a 'kefrigerator', so why do we say 'keezer'? If you're going to portmanteau, then show some consistency.
Drabeezer. Yes, now we're getting more ridiculous with a DRA(ft) BEE(r free)ZER. Or, as I neglected to offer alternatives above, a DRA(ft) B(eer fr)EEZER. Yes, we're doing word jumbles.

I completely understand that it is easier to communicate the history of a build by making sure that the original, pre-modified, item is named in the conversion. I just think that, outside a statistically small community of builders and users, we're not helping anything by throwing around the word KEEZER. We're building (and using) draft boxes, and whether we make them out of a home-built insulated box with a modified window AC unit (which I'm not recommending, but now that I've imagined it I can't wait to see if the internet delivers one), or a modified refrigerator, or a modified chest freezer, or something else entirely... We can safely say that our aim is to provide a space with an actively controlled temperature for vessels that hold liquids in either fermenting, carbonating, or dispensing vessels with plumbing to pressurize and dispense such liquids. That sounds like a draft (draught, if you prefer) box.

Or brewzer. If you won't accept Draft Box, generic and serviceable as it is, then get ready for BREWZER, because that's what I'm going with.

I'm sourcing my hardware piecemeal, so I'll throw in updates as they come. Expect a few mistakes as I build this. Don't expect daily updates.

Ask questions. Provide advice. I'll answer the one, and try to heed the other.

 

[xaq]

First, the official GE information:
http://products.geappliances.com/ApplProducts/Dispatcher?REQUEST=SpecPage&Sku=FCM7SHWW

Listed (outside) dimensions are:
37 1/2" WIDE
21" DEEP
33 1/2" HIGH

Interior dimensions are:
TOTAL:
32" WIDE
14 1/2" DEEP
28" HIGH

FLOOR (excluding the 'hump' for the compressor and other parts):
24" WIDE
depth (front to back) remains constant

HUMP:
8" WIDE
depth (front to back) remains constant
19" HIGH

What does this mean, practically?
1) THREE ball lock kegs will fit on the floor. While the SU model has been widely reported to hold four ball lock cornelius style kegs on the floor, the SH is not as DEEP (front to back) and will not fit four on the floor.
2) While you cannot fit four ball lock kegs on the floor of this model, you CAN fit a 1/4bbl slim or 1/6bbl keg (both Sanke style) or pin lock kegs on the floor of this model in place of ball lock kegs. There is no 'tight fit' option for four kegs, but there is a fair excess of space for three kegs of varying styles. Right now I'm eyeing a 1/4bbl slim keg and two ball lock kegs (I have a 1/4bbl slim 7.75gallon keg of Founder's Double Trouble going in as soon as I get temperature control, CO2, and dispensing plumbing installed).
3) You still cannot fit a 1/2bbl or 1/4bbl (pony) keg in the unit.
4) Placing a keg on the 'hump' is still possible, but will require the collar built onto the unit to be of the taller variety. A simple 2x4 collar will not provide enough space to allow for four kegs to be used.
5) I'll be placing the CO2 tank outside the unit to allow for more keg space (since placing a keg on the hump is required to fit four kegs).

 

[xaq]

As soon as the unit was delivered, I started tearing it down.

NOTE ON HINGES: either remove them smart, or remove them with a friend. It is possible to safely remove them solo, either by disabling them (a nail may work, it did not work for these hinges) or by loosening the screws and sliding the hinge out along the cutout. Don't let them bite you. The hinge COVERS (simple plastic that covers the screws and working mechanism) can be pulled off by hand without damage. A flat-head screwdriver used to pry them off can be helpful, but is not necessary.

NOTE ON WEATHERSTRIPPING: you don't have to cut it out, it can be pried loose (again, by hand) and then pulled out intact. I'm not sure if I'll need to reuse it, so I removed it and have it available for later.

Access panel is off, and compressor/etc are exposed. Thermostat is on the front, more on that later.

Lid now set jauntily on top of the unit, top view.

Terrible picture of wiring diagram. At time of writing, this is all I could find to document the wiring (which we'll mess with later when I install the temperature controller).

 

[xaq]

It'll be 3am local before I get to sleep at this rate, and the images I uploaded to Flickr aren't linking here. As I haven't worked with this forum before for linking to or hosting images, this will have to wait.

I will, however, throw a couple quick links in for reference.

The first link is from these forums, which got me looking at the GE chest freezers as a start to modify into a draft box. This incredibly informative build is based on an SU model, which is no longer generally available.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ge-7-cf-fcm7suww-keezer-conversion-192208/ My hope is to give some information about the model that is replacing the SU, which appears to be the SH/SHB model. The thread is 49 pages long, as I write this.

The second is another ode from this forum to SU modification, with additional build information. Only 8 pages (currently), but a good second reference to build notes. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/keezer-build-tips-lessons-learned-301204/ Also includes information on insulation and circulation.

I have disconnected the supplied thermostat (which goes from 'MIN' to 'MAX' and is not useful for maintaining a proper, non-frozen atmosphere in the unit) and am replacing it with a single-relay digital temperature controller (two-relay versions are available for controlling heating AND cooling, but my primary use is as a draft box and not a fermentation chamber). I took my inspiration from another link, this one an instructable. http://www.instructables.com/id/Convert-a-chest-freezer-to-kegerator-or-fermenter-/#step1 A "plug and play" temperature controller certainly works, but as I was able to get a digital controller from eBay for $14.80 shipped, I decided to go ahead and put that into my build.

In case anyone is entirely new to this idea, there's a handy 'jumping off point' video from Northern Brewer that shows a simple short-collar build. http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/2012/05/how-to-build-a-keezer-kegerator-freezer/

 

[xaq]

The unit stands 33 1/2" tall.

I stand 6' 4" (76").

I don't want to bend over too much just to pour a beer.

I'll be adding a tall collar to it (remember, this model won't fit four kegs on the floor, so building a collar tall enough to allow a keg on the "hump" is already a necessity for a four-tap brewzer), which will add a little height. I'll also be building a base with swivel casters, which will add height AND let me wheel the unit around.

We'll get to the collar later.

The casters can be purchased individually from a hardware store, OR one can purchase a 'mover's dolly' like this one (30" x 19") http://www.harborfreight.com/movers-dolly-39757.html and either used as-is (it's a close fit) or cannibalized and refit to this unit. As-is, it adds another 6".

Since I'm putting the CO2 tank outside the unit, I'm thinking I might just rebuild the dolly with a mount for the tank. If I do that, the entire unit will move as one piece with a single cord going to a wall outlet. Otherwise, I'd be well-advised to put additional gas line from the tank to the unit and to provide some sort of safety hitch for the tank to the basement wall. Those details will sort themselves out, by and by.

 

[xaq]

Looks like another FCM7SHWW build:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/sleeves-ge-7-0-keezer-build-495883/

 

[Big10Seaner]

I'm currently planning a build with one of these as well. I have everything except for the wood for the collar and a few more beer lines. I'll keep you posted with how it's going. I plan on getting the collar built this weekend.

 

[dnelson1025]

Hey how have these builds gone? I'm looking to get one of these for fermentation. Do either of you know how two 6.5 gallon buckets with lids will fit?

 

[revco]

Hey how have these builds gone? I'm looking to get one of these for fermentation. Do either of you know how two 6.5 gallon buckets with lids will fit?

I just upgraded my fermentation chamber to this freezer and can confirm that it will easily hold 2x 6.5G carboys or 2x buckets, but only with a collar. Without a collar, it can only hold one of each. I put a 7.25" (8" rough) collar on mine and can easily fit two carboys, even with a bubbler. Hope that helps!

 

[dnelson1025]

Ah bummer. Thanks for the response.

 

[GamePreserve]

Really a 19 inch hump height? wow, that's huge. the collar needs to be huge to fit a keg on that.
So this seems to be a 3 keg set up with the SH vs 5 in the SU?


HUMP:
8" WIDE
depth (front to back) remains constant
19" HIGH [/QUOTE]

 

[shigadeyo]

I am considering a GE FCM7SHWW chest freezer. So it will hold 3xBall Kegs and a 5# CO2 without a collar (I just plan to keep using picnic taps for now)?

Also, is it possible to fit 1 or 2 kegs, 5# CO2, and a 5 or 6 gallon carboy (blow off tube only) without a collar?

Thanks for the info!

 

[revco]

I am considering a GE FCM7SHWW chest freezer. So it will hold 3xBall Kegs and a 5# CO2 without a collar (I just plan to keep using picnic taps for now)?

Also, is it possible to fit 1 or 2 kegs, 5# CO2, and a 5 or 6 gallon carboy (blow off tube only) without a collar?

Thanks for the info!

This freezer, with a collar, will technically fit 5x ball locks very, very tightly if you don't have Co2 in the freezer. In this configuration, you have to be very specific about how the kegs are loaded and how your tap handles are mounted, else you can be blocked from closing the lid. You can fit 4 ball locks comfortably without much concern, with a collar and plenty of room for Co2. Without a collar, only 3x kegs will work as the hump is too high.

I'd have to check on the carboys, I can check the various sizes as I have them, but I have some beer in there right now. (I'll check next time she's empty and if the thread hasn't been updated, I'll post.) Just off the cuff, it might be able to barely clear 2x 5 or 6 gallon carboys in the well without a collar, but it'd be tight. I find having space is ideal for inserting and removing carboys into a freezer like this since you don't have supreme control when extending it outward and lowering them to get it in. What I'm saying is that while it might fit, it's still probably not a good idea and the collar buys you a fair bit of extra space laterally and too tight a fit could spell inadvertent disaster.

A collar is super simple to build and install for these freezers, no major components have to be modified. You can simply screw in the default hinges to whatever you're working with.

 

[shigadeyo]

This freezer, with a collar, will technically fit 5x ball locks very, very tightly if you don't have Co2 in the freezer. In this configuration, you have to be very specific about how the kegs are loaded and how your tap handles are mounted, else you can be blocked from closing the lid. You can fit 4 ball locks comfortably without much concern, with a collar and plenty of room for Co2. Without a collar, only 3x kegs will work as the hump is too high.

I'd have to check on the carboys, I can check the various sizes as I have them, but I have some beer in there right now. (I'll check next time she's empty and if the thread hasn't been updated, I'll post.) Just off the cuff, it might be able to barely clear 2x 5 or 6 gallon carboys in the well without a collar, but it'd be tight. I find having space is ideal for inserting and removing carboys into a freezer like this since you don't have supreme control when extending it outward and lowering them to get it in. What I'm saying is that while it might fit, it's still probably not a good idea and the collar buys you a fair bit of extra space laterally and too tight a fit could spell inadvertent disaster.

A collar is super simple to build and install for these freezers, no major components have to be modified. You can simply screw in the default hinges to whatever you're working with.

Thanks for the information! Given that the other models that have been previously posted and discussed at length are no longer available, I'll probably just go with this one since it's not really that much more than getting the 5.0 ft3 model and none of the other brands/models seem to have as much usable space (as far as kegs, etc. are concerned).