PapaFoxtrot
Well-Known Member
I picked up a True GDM-7 a couple years back to use for a fermentation chamber. Looks similar to this one(picture belongs to the thread linked below):
Started getting serious about the project a couple weeks back. Plan is to use an Inkbird ITC-1000 to begin with and then convert to a Brew-Pi setup. I've hit a bit of a snag on how to run the sensor wiring. There doesn't appear to be an easy way of getting the wiring into the cooler(except for hanging it through the door opening). I'm planning to run one 3 wire cable which would work for either the ITC-1000 or Brew-Pi sensors.
I found this nice thread where an STC-1000 is mounted in the light panel - using the cooler's existing wiring. That's tempting, but that would limit me to either the ITC-1000 or going with a wifi Brew-Pi solution. An RF solution like bluetooth or wifi might be problematic with all the sheet metal involved and I'm pretty sure that fan motor makes plenty of RF noise.
I'm tempted to try snaking the cable up the condensate drain or just drilling through the back and protecting the cable with a couple grommets - one in each sheet metal panel on either side of the insulation.
Has anyone come up with a more "elegant" solution?
Started getting serious about the project a couple weeks back. Plan is to use an Inkbird ITC-1000 to begin with and then convert to a Brew-Pi setup. I've hit a bit of a snag on how to run the sensor wiring. There doesn't appear to be an easy way of getting the wiring into the cooler(except for hanging it through the door opening). I'm planning to run one 3 wire cable which would work for either the ITC-1000 or Brew-Pi sensors.
I found this nice thread where an STC-1000 is mounted in the light panel - using the cooler's existing wiring. That's tempting, but that would limit me to either the ITC-1000 or going with a wifi Brew-Pi solution. An RF solution like bluetooth or wifi might be problematic with all the sheet metal involved and I'm pretty sure that fan motor makes plenty of RF noise.
I'm tempted to try snaking the cable up the condensate drain or just drilling through the back and protecting the cable with a couple grommets - one in each sheet metal panel on either side of the insulation.
Has anyone come up with a more "elegant" solution?
