Freaking out!!!

[cablecutter]

Recipe:

One Can Muntons Light Malt Extract (3.3 LBS)
One Can Cooper's Lager kit
One 1 kg Coopers Brew Enhancer
Half pound of Mountons Cara-pils (two row barley malt)
Coopers Carbonation Drops
½ oz Cascade hops

Steps

1) Heat 1 1/2 gallons water to 150F
2) Crack 1/2 pound barley put in Cheese cloth
3) Steep Barley for half hour
4) Sprague grins with one letter water at 170F
5) Raise heat; bring to boil steep hops for 15 minutes
7) Turn off the heat and add the Malt extract and the Coopers beer kit
8) Add the Cooper's Brew Enhancer
9) Put in ice bath to cool wort
10) hydrate yeast (provided by kit) for 20 minutes
11) Add water to mark and add yeast

I will open by saying that I was extremely careful to sanitize everything.
The OG was at 1043 and the temp was 23-22C. At first all seemed to be going well, 8 hours in the brew was fermenting rigorously; this lasted for about 48 hours. At the 50 hour mark all visible of fermentation resided. I tested the gravity and had a reading of 1009. The beer seems really but I mean really cloudy and tasted kind of bitter/sour.
I’m freaking out this is my first brew and having my first rewind will suck big time. The three things that worry me are: The beer fermented really fast even though I was careful to keep the temp right. The beer is extremely cloudy; it looks like a pale apple cider. And last but not least the taste is killing me.
I know its early (real early) to determine anything. But, I’m still worried. Am I just another hypertensive newb or do I have reason to be worried? Any advice??

 

[eastoak]

let it sit or another week or two, nothing to worry about yet.

 

[Allstar]

Relax, I thought the same thing making an Amber Ale. I just let it go. Let it go the rest of the week in the primary taking your readings making sure they are the same. Then rack it to the secondary for a week, then bottle it for two weeks. It will probably condition well.

 

[eastoak]

you can do it if you want to but you don't need to move the beer into a secondary to have a good beer.

 

[akryder]

You're just tasting (really) green beer. 50 hours is WAY to early to make any decisions about your beer. The longer you let it sit on the yeast cake, the better chance the yeast have to do their job. Time will take care of the cloudiness and flavor. Some fermentations go quick, others slow, but the time spent on the cake, allowing the yeast to do their work, is important for all brews. The yeast will continue to "clean up" the beer, and affecting the flavor. Time will also help clarify your beer.

Give it a couple more weeks, at least. I like to let a lot of mine sit for at least 3-4 weeks (because I'm lazy) and some let them sit longer.

22-23 C seems a bit warm to ferment at, but that really depends on the yeast. Was it the standard Coopers' Ale yeast? Either way, you really need to give the yeast time to do it's thing.

 

[ChandlerBang]

I know its early (real early) to determine anything. But, I’m still worried. Am I just another hypertensive newb or do I have reason to be worried? Any advice??

You are beyond (real early), if you were any earlier you would still be boiling.
Advice: Chill the f**k out.

Did the instructions have target OG and FG? What where they in comparison to your actuals?
You don't have an FG until you get the same reading over several days. And it won't happen in 24 hours. It will definitely be uber cloudy this early, even apple cider cloudy. Fermentation is a violent process.

Give it a couple weeks in the bucket (I generally do 4 to 6 depending on how lazy I'm feeling) then bottle. Then leave it in the bottle at 70*F for a MINIMUM of three weeks before chilling and tasting a couple bottles at a time.

The WORST thing you can do is take it off the yeast cake too early (under 7-10 days).

Relax. Even if its piss water, its piss water that YOU made all by yourself (with the help of Mr. Yeastie, of course).

 

[norsk]

I'd stick it somewhere where I couldn't see it and leave it alone for 2 more weeks....then bottle it and toss them in the fridge for a few days. Good luck.

 

[Scruffy1207]

The acronym that you will use for the rest of your homebrewing Career: RDWHAHB. You're doing Fine, leave it in there for three weeks and then bottle for three weeks.throw it in the fridge for two days, and enjoy.

 

[cablecutter]

Thanks guys I appreciative the advice

To answer I did in fact use the yeast provided by the coopers Lager kit (tough it aint no lager)

I know I shouldn't have it being my first brew and all but the recipe is my own after consulting many people and doing much reading.

As I stated before. the thing that worries me is the sour taste just for fear of contamination. but the responses i got chilled me out so again thanx to u all for your advice and understanding ( I mean hey everyone is a newb at some point)

 

[renshaw]

Rdwhahb!

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

Are you planning on lagering?

 

[cablecutter]

As I understand Cooper’s claim that the kit is in fact a Lager but temp wise is more than forgiving. As I stated before I did not let the temp go over the recommended range. I would go as far to say, that I kept the brew at exactly at the optimal temp the entire time according to Cooper’s guidelines.

 

[cablecutter]

I do not have the equipment to Lager. I don’t even have a secondary.

 

[bonzombiekitty]

As I stated before. the thing that worries me is the sour taste just for fear of contamination.

Just relax. While sanitation is very important in making beer, frankly the fears over contamination are way over blown. If you sanitized your equipment, then you have like a .5% chance of having an infection, if you didn't do a fantastic job at sanitizing the your chances of infection is maybe 5%. Ok, I made up those numbers, but it's not too far off. A lot of people have ended up doing strange things to their beer and have had no problem, and people have been making beer for centuries before they had any concept of sanitation. In my second batch of beer, I accidentally dropped a filthy piece of 2'x2' plastic that had been sitting on the basement floor for years right into the beer and then instinctively plunged my whole arm into the beer in order to retrieve it. No infection resulted.

 

[unionrdr]

The cooper's OS Lager uses an ale yeast with an optimal range of 68-72F. That range will give cleaner flavors,ime. As a matter of fact,all cooper's Original Series beers use the gold ale yeast sachet at some 7g. I think they work better in a small starter of 3hours or so to give the yeasties a good,solid start.
And since it's ale yeast,no "lagering" is required,so no worries.

 

[renshaw]

I'm doing one of coopers lager right now,
Temperatures actually say 18 - 27 and best is 20 - 24 Celsius, Im guessing their instruction will be correct!

And for lagering, how are you storing it? keg or bottle, just add priming sugar to each and leave for at least a week (3 recommended) to carbonate.

 

[unionrdr]

That's the temp range where the yeast is active. But the higher end of that range is not a good thing,it's where off flavors lurk.
That's why I try to keep the temps around 20C-22C (69F-72F). That range will result in cleaner flavors. That's what I've tried to do,& it works.
The latest results of this can be seen in my new gallery pics.

 

[cablecutter]

I am going to use bottles as I am new to this; I haven’t bought a secondary yet do you guys think it is crucial for this brew?

To tell you the truth I did another test today and the terrible hydrometer that came with the Cooper’s kit sank. It seems that there is a hole in it. Any way I tasted it again and the sour taste is almost all gone (YEY!!!). I’m guessing it was as you told me; just green. And the beer is clearing up as well.

Anyway like I said before I’m not sure what I should. Should I move it to a secondary or just let it site another week before bottling?

I also have one more question. If I’m using the priming sugar per bottle, how much should I use per bottle? And is table sugar good enough?

 

[passedpawn]

table sugar is fine, although I would highly recommend not doing it by bottle (don't want bombs!). Most brewers use a bottling bucket for this purpose (transfer beer to bucket, add dissolved sugar, gently stir, bottle).

If you are not going to use one, just dissolve your sugar into a little water (boil and cool) and add to your fermenter. Don't stir; that would raise the yeast from the bottom and make a mess. Let sit for about 30 minutes. I'm guessing this will be enough time to ensure adequate mixing in the beer. Then bottle as you were planning.

About 2.5 ounces of table sugar per 5 gallons. Scale this as needed for your batch size. You really really should weigh things like this, but if you can't then go with about a half cup. That will give you about medium carbonation in 5g.

 

[unionrdr]

You def don't need a secondary for the average beer. But a bottling bucket is def way better,ime. I used to use the cooper's carb drops,which work great. But make too much carbonation at 5 weeks+. So I put together a primary bucket for bottling/secondary. Yes,table sugar is fine for priming,since you don't use that much. But per bottle amounts of dry sugar is tough to get right.
Priming sugar is measured by weight,not volume. About 1oz of priming sugar per gallon of beer,maybe a hair less. Let it sit for a little while longer if you feel there are still off flavors that the yeast can clean up. A few more days,maybe,if you just want it to settle more. I let mine reach FG,then settle/clear to a slight haze.
Then prime & bottle. But I say,either get a bottling bucket & bulk prime (works better ime),or use carb drops. In bulk priming,you measure the priming sugar by weight (brewheads.com has a calculator),then get 2C of water steamy before adding the sugar. Stir it in to dissolve,& cool it down to around 70F-80F.
That works real well for me. And being 2C of water makes it thin enough to mix easily with the beer.

 

[zepolmot]

I'm super confused. You said in one post that the recipe was your own. But apparently its also a cooper kit? Why did you set out to lager without having the equipment? I'll jump in and echo that you don't need to secondary, but a bottling bucket really is helpful when it comes to priming for bottling.

 

[unionrdr]

A cooper's can is not a kit in any way,shape,or form. It's just a pre-hopped can of LME with a small yeast sachet under the false lid. Other things must be added to complete it.
Of course,that definition is pretty wide. So many things can be added to complete it while making it your own. And,as I said before,the cooper's OS (Original Series) Lager uses the gold,7g ale yeast sachet. So lagering isn't needed. I explained all that already just to set the record straight with the op,& anyone else curious.

 

[zepolmot]

Gotchya, the OP referring to it as a "cooper's kit" was what made me think it was a whole recipe kit.

 

[biggerthanyou83]

Relax and have a beer! let it sit for 6-10 days or the yeast do its job. Do u have it in a carboy or a bucket?

 

[cablecutter]

Hey guys I just want to say thanks. All of you are awesome and really helpful. My nerves have been doing a lot better since I joint this site. None the less I can say that my patience needs some working on as I swear I check my brew closet every twenty minutes (though I only look not touch) anyway I’m dying to find out what I created. I wanted to ask you guys to look over my OP and tell me what you think of my recipe and method. I would love to hear opinions and pointers.
As I am aiming to bottle next week end (14 days into brew) I would also be very happy if you guys would recommend other beginner level recipe kits and where I should get them from (I do not have a good store near me so all will by Internet).
Once more thanks, you guys all make this fun plus you insight has proven to be more than positively influential.

 

[mcgearybrewing]

Just relax. While sanitation is very important in making beer, frankly the fears over contamination are way over blown. If you sanitized your equipment, then you have like a .5% chance of having an infection, if you didn't do a fantastic job at sanitizing the your chances of infection is maybe 5%. Ok, I made up those numbers, but it's not too far off. A lot of people have ended up doing strange things to their beer and have had no problem, and people have been making beer for centuries before they had any concept of sanitation. In my second batch of beer, I accidentally dropped a filthy piece of 2'x2' plastic that had been sitting on the basement floor for years right into the beer and then instinctively plunged my whole arm into the beer in order to retrieve it. No infection resulted.

Fermented my 20th batch or so around a decade ago, thought my sanitation was spot on.....in the secondary I caught a wild bacteria strain and had a nice layer of mold on top.....Took the carboy outside in the noon July sun and because I was frantic about the mold never wrapped the carboy to avoid exposure from the sun.....long story short, one of the best beers I ever made, received many accolades on it, but could never replicate it because I don't know what bacteria strain took hold.....wish to this day I would have a sample tested, but again Don't Worry, It's just a Beer

 

[mcgearybrewing]

Hey guys I just want to say thanks. All of you are awesome and really helpful. My nerves have been doing a lot better since I joint this site. None the less I can say that my patience needs some working on as I swear I check my brew closet every twenty minutes (though I only look not touch) anyway I’m dying to find out what I created. I wanted to ask you guys to look over my OP and tell me what you think of my recipe and method. I would love to hear opinions and pointers.
As I am aiming to bottle next week end (14 days into brew) I would also be very happy if you guys would recommend other beginner level recipe kits and where I should get them from (I do not have a good store near me so all will by Internet).
Once more thanks, you guys all make this fun plus you insight has proven to be more than positively influential.

It's not a bad drive from Teaneck to Philly, but in Philly you'll find http://www.homesweethomebrew.com George Hummel owns and and has been brewing semi pro and home brewer for 30+ years.....I live 106 miles away and that is where I bought my first set up all those years ago....or you have these options a little closer to you, but I don't them personally so I cannot comment on their ops



30. Keg & Barrel Home Brew Supply Berlin
41 Clementon Rd (856) 768-5199

31. The Brewer’s Apprentice Freehold
865 Rte 33 West (732) 863-9411
www.brewapp.com

32. Makingbeerisfun.com Kenvil
52 Gregory Dr. (973) 461-6572

33. U-Brew HB Supplies S Orange
15 S. Orange St (973) 762-707

 

[bonzombiekitty]

It's not a bad drive from Teaneck to Philly, but in Philly you'll find http://www.homesweethomebrew.com George Hummel owns and and has been brewing semi pro and home brewer for 30+ years....

In Philly, I'm partial to Barry's. Selection isn't good, although not quite as good as HSHB, but he's a little cheaper and you can buy exactly the amount of grain you want rather than having to buy in 1lb increments at HSHB. Plus, parking way easier.

 

[cablecutter]

while all this is great I was still hoping to get some comments on my recipe

 

[unionrdr]

Your recipe looks a lot like what the Aussie's on the cooper's site call a "toucan" (two-can). But .5oz of Cascade isn't enough hops,you'd need 2-3oz for that much malt. Not to mention,a good starter or two yeast packets.

 

[cablecutter]

oooo bad. lol well it still has another week in the tormentor do you think I can add an Oz or so of cascade in a cheese cloth an just dump it the bucket?

 

[unionrdr]

.5 oz of hops is quite common for dry hopping down under. But the whole ounce is good too. Done that.

 

[cablecutter]

so just dumping it in the bucket is ok?

 

[unionrdr]

Some do,but I don't like extra sediment that doesn't compact too well on the bottom. I use hop socks.

 

[cablecutter]

is a cheese cloth ok?

 

[cablecutter]

P.S. the Cooper's can was pre-hooped not sure about the second can? that is y add the oz of hoops at the boil

 

[unionrdr]

Yeah,cheese cloth will do just fine. Just leave plenty of room,since one ounce of pellet hops will swell to about the size of a baseball. And the second can is listed as "munton's light malt extract",so I think it's un-hopped. Cooper's lists there un-hopped extract the same way,as are the orange Munton's cans I've seen that are un-hopped.

 

[cablecutter]

cool Thanks your advise haze been vary helpful I truly appreciate it

 

[cablecutter]

one more question. will boiling the cheese cloth be good enough for sanitation?

 

[unionrdr]

Yeah,I do it all the time. Glad to be of some help.