For all those who don't own wort chillers

[gbing]

Hi All, just wondering what other people do to cool their wort sans a chiller of any sort.
I do the ice bath thing, and in one of Charlie Papazian's books he suggests freezing Ziploc bags of water and dunking them while the kettle is in the ice bath.
Just looking for ideas from others, because I'm unhappy with the cold breaks that I've been only marginally achieving. ....?

 

[Cheesy_Goodness]

There's probably a dozen ways to chill without a wort chiller (if you even want to chill; some don't).

I've got an old tote box and usually have to fill that with hose water 3 times. If its an especially hot day I'll fill it the night before when the ground water is a bit cooler.
I also don't use ice until the last bath. The first two baths knock the temp down a lot, which is easy, but once you get around 100F it gets a bit trickier to get down to 70F. Not the prettiest setup but it does work pretty well, I can have 5.5 gallons chilled in about 40 mins or so.

Having said that, I've made good beer that didn't get chilled and didn't have much of a cold break. I don't believe that having one is necessary, but someone else might chime in with actual evidence to the contrary

 

[Freddyj123]

I'll be watching this thread, I'm brand new and didn't know that not chilling is an option, nor am I familiar with 'cold break'

 

[gwapogorilla]

Spend $70 and build your own chiller out of copper tubing, a couple nylon hoses, hose clamps and faucet attachments. I built mine before I even started brewing. Half the price of the bought ones and works just as good.

The idea behind a chiller is to get the wort cold as fast as possible for a couple reasons. 1, to get a good cold break to help clear beer....2, to get the wort out of the 100-120* range where bacteria breed.

Some folks are doing a "No chill" brewing technique....personally I think it's risky. I just can't imagine passing out bottles of potential food poisoning to my buddies.

 

[Rockit]

I have a chiller but am often too lazy to use it. I just set my keggle on the step in my pool and leave it for 30 minutes or so.
Works awesome in the winter when pool temp is 30-40.

 

[joshesmusica]

we still have cold water flowing through the pipes here. all i have is a shower, so no dunking the kettle. i brew big batches with extract, so i just top off, which also helps bring the temps down. but i just set the detachable shower head to the coldest and spray it on to the kettle. granted water's coming out about 12-15C, but i can get it to about 25 or so in about 20-25 mins. then after i top up it's good to go. if it's 22 or below i'll pitch the yeast as my ferment chamber brings the temps down to a good ferment temp with ease.
if you don't have incredibly cold water, i think the best way is to go cold water batch, stirring vigorously the whole time (i don't believe hot side aeration has much of an effect at our scale). then once it's about as low as your tap water will bring it, start using ice to bring it the rest of the way.
although, if you're not entering it into competitions, time or cold crashing will help it be clear enough for the average beer drinker to not be so concerned about chill haze. and as far as getting it out of that danger zone of 100-120, if you've ever taken a food permit class, you know that you can be in that range for a couple of hours before anything harmful will set it. also if you're pitching a nice healthy amount of yeast, they should out-compete any bacteria or wild yeast.
how long is it taking you to get it to pitching temps?

 

[gbing]

Thanks folks.... +joshesmusica, sounds like you are possibly Canadian(due to your temp C references) and also possibly a cook/chef?
In answering your question, I can usually get the wort down to ~25oC in less than an hour, but I was hoping someone had a more efficient way.
I haven't had any issues so far, but I do end up with quite a bit of sheiza in the carboy when I transfer. ...

 

[monstervictor]

In my experience, I started with pool banks. I would start making ice every day from fermentation day (for the next brew) until I had about 2 supermarket bags worth of ice cubes. After getting the ice, I would have my old garbage can (that I had sitting with bleach for a few days) and make my pool bank there. With my father, one of us would be mixing and holding the kettle, and the other carefully mix the ice on the side while it melts.

We did this for a few brews (we did not know if we would like the hobby... suckers) until we made our own immersion chiller.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[Saboral]

Buy a chiller [emoji57]

 

[joshesmusica]

Thanks folks.... +joshesmusica, sounds like you are possibly Canadian(due to your temp C references) and also possibly a cook/chef?
In answering your question, I can usually get the wort down to ~25oC in less than an hour, but I was hoping someone had a more efficient way.
I haven't had any issues so far, but I do end up with quite a bit of sheiza in the carboy when I transfer. ...

american living in norway, therefore all of my equipment is also from norway. not a cook/chef, just that in oklahoma (where i'm from) to work as a server in a restaurant you need a food handler's permit.

i would say that as far as bacteria and stuff cooling down that slow isn't that big of a deal. especially if you're getting it down to 100 quick enough (which unless your tap water is 80, you should be able to do pretty well). it's likely that last shove from about 90 down to 70 that you're having trouble with. it's at that time that you wanna start with the ice. of course you can use ice the entire time, but that just means you'll need a ton of ice. but then again if you're able to store up tons of ice from one brew to the next, maybe that's not a problem.

that slow that, it's true you'll likely have some chill haze. chill haze is simply about the aesthetics and will not affect the flavor. if you can't cold crash, then the best way to get, really, pretty clear beer is patience (aka time, aka leaving it in primary 3 weeks or longer).

one of my favorite bits of advice on here though is when people say, i don't really have the resources to buy such and such, is there anybody out there using a method that doesn't require me to by that thing, only to have someone give the advice of "just go buy that thing..."

 

[AK7007]

I'll be the first to advocate no-chill. I love hop stands, typically one at knockout for 30 min down to 180F, then a second one overnight. I tape up the lid with painter's tape for the overnight one. Some people would transfer to a collapsible cube, but I have not gotten an infection and honestly think that I'm getting fewer wild organisms in the beer than if I was screwing with a chiller for two different hop stands or transferring. The next morning I put the ~80F wort into my BMB and either pitch (Saisons), put inside the house, (Sacc Trois fermentations) or put into a fermentation chamber to come down to ale temps. Basically, no-chill has been a way to enable myself to have hoppier beers.

Cold break from a quick chill might be better than no-chill, but no-chill absolutely still induces cold break, so don't worry about that part.

Read this: http://brulosophy.com/2015/02/09/a-year-of-no-chill-lessons-from-a-secret-xbmt/

 

[dscott]

Until my recent move to AG, I was brewing extract batched on the stove top and chilling in a sink of ice water. That meant 2-3 bags of ice for each batch...
While planning to make the jump, and looking into building a CF chiller, I found a 25' CFC on Amazon for slightly more than I could build it for. It works great, saves me time and I'll recoup the cost well within a year.

Cheers,
d

 

[gbing]

american living in norway, therefore all of my equipment is also from norway. not a cook/chef, just that in oklahoma (where i'm from) to work as a server in a restaurant you need a food handler's permit


Well, colour me mistaken! !
I totally had you pegged for a Canadian.
I, unfortunately am Canadian, and perhaps even more unfortunately, am also a chef....long hours with a penance for remuneration ( hence the no wort chiller! )

I guess in Norway you probably have very ready access to glacial fed streams to cool your wort with? jk

What brought you there.....petroleum? jk again, but maybe I'm not?
I should probably move over to the drunken mumblings forum.....

 

[slym2none]

in oklahoma (where i'm from) to work as a server in a restaurant you need a food handler's permit.

Jeez - and I thought the laws & guidelines in NYC were tough!

:cross:

 

[Psylocide]

Put the lid on the kettle, walk away. Come back 18 hours later, transfer and pitch.

 

[ArkotRamathorn]

Put the lid on the kettle, walk away. Come back 18 hours later, transfer and pitch.

The only reason I ended up getting a chiller was because I would say this, "oh I'll come back tomorrow morning and transfer an pitch". 72 hours later "oh holy crap I forgot to transfer and pitch, I guess I've got a sour beer on the way". The chiller forces me to remember to shut off the water, and transfer in 20-30 minutes when its done chilling and its basically ready to pitch or I will quite literally forget.

Qualitative differences of no-chill vs. active chilling are almost entirely subjective (i.e. mostly visual). If I didn't have a chiller (best christmas present ever, thanks mom!) I have a utility sink in the basement I would just fill up with cold water and just set the kettle in there, you dont need a chiller but getting down in temp quick isn't so bad either (save money, and you actively chill if you want to pitch yeast same day, no ice needed).

 

[Psylocide]

The only reason I ended up getting a chiller was because I would say this, "oh I'll come back tomorrow morning and transfer an pitch". 72 hours later "oh holy crap I forgot to transfer and pitch, I guess I've got a sour beer on the way". The chiller forces me to remember to shut off the water, and transfer in 20-30 minutes when its done chilling and its basically ready to pitch or I will quite literally forget.

Qualitative differences of no-chill vs. active chilling are almost entirely subjective (i.e. mostly visual). If I didn't have a chiller (best christmas present ever, thanks mom!) I have a utility sink in the basement I would just fill up with cold water and just set the kettle in there, you dont need a chiller but getting down in temp quick isn't so bad either (save money, and you actively chill if you want to pitch yeast same day, no ice needed).

I talk to my beer every day. I would never forget.

I'm making a chiller now actually, I don't want to wait for 10+ gal to get to pitching temp.

 

[roastquake]

Feels good to be back on HBT it's been a while. But this thread is right up my alley, I gave up chilling wort a long time ago. First I started pouring hot wort directly into my plastic fermenter bucket, aerating and pitching the next day. But more recently I use my kettle fitted with a valve and bazooka screen for BIAB mash, boil, and (no-)chill. I put the lid on for a few minutes at the end of the boil to sanitize, then after flameout I pitch my flavor hops, put the lid on the kettle and walk away. With this method I can filter out most of the break material that settles on the bottom of the kettle overnight. I have gotten some very clear beers this way, and no infections.

I used to use the traditional brewing method of multi-vessel mashing, and using a wort chiller. But, I switched to BIAB/no-chill for the sake of simplicity and reduction of water waste. With the results I've seen so far, I am still standing by that decision.

Edit: I will add that if you don't have a kettle fitted with a valve/screen/false bottom, you can siphon your wort off the break material and get the same result

 

[eelpout]

I'll be watching this thread, I'm brand new and didn't know that not chilling is an option'

If your new and going to follow this thread, you might as well follow the "what's wrong with my beer" threads as well

 

[Freddyj123]

If your new and going to follow this thread, you might as well follow the "what's wrong with my beer" threads as well

Agreed, and thank you. I found That thread listening all of the various "what's wrong" threads very informative and reassuring, this is a great & supportive forum! :rockin::rockin::rockin:

 

[gbing]

This might be on topic as we are talking about cold breaks and beer clarity....
I've never cold-crashed before, but would like to.
I understand it's purpose and how the process works, but my question is, is there an upper limit to how long you cold crash? Cuz in my mind, if you allow absolutely all of the yeast to settle, then you'll end up with uncarbed beer after the conditioning time.
Another thing, I'm assuming that the temp at which one crashes likely depends on beer style and yeast strain. I've read of some brewers crashing at almost freezing temps like 4C, but they never say how long they leave it crashing for....
Suggestions / Advice?

 

[WaltG]

Spend $70 and build your own chiller out of copper tubing, a couple nylon hoses, hose clamps and faucet attachments. I built mine before I even started brewing. Half the price of the bought ones and works just as good.

The idea behind a chiller is to get the wort cold as fast as possible for a couple reasons. 1, to get a good cold break to help clear beer....2, to get the wort out of the 100-120* range where bacteria breed.

Some folks are doing a "No chill" brewing technique....personally I think it's risky. I just can't imagine passing out bottles of potential food poisoning to my buddies.

I know this is hard to believe but $70 is a lot if money to a lot of people.

On that note a wort chiller is one of the best investments you can make to improve your homebrew. There are some on amazon in the $50 range. Also keep an eye on Craigslist.

 

[MileHighBrewer]

Some folks are doing a "No chill" brewing technique....personally I think it's risky. I just can't imagine passing out bottles of potential food poisoning to my buddies.

If done right with a cube, there is no risk, period. Just letting it sit in the kettle....eh, minimum risk. But if you use the aussie method there is no way for pathogens to infect your beer, its in a sterile environment that is sealed

 

[AK7007]

On that note a wort chiller is one of the best investments you can make to improve your homebrew. There are some on amazon in the $50 range. Also keep an eye on Craigslist.

Can you elaborate on what exactly you think a chiller will help with quality-wise? I no-chill and cannot identify a quality reduction. How is your homebrew negatively impacted by not having a chiller?

is there an upper limit to how long you cold crash? Cuz in my mind, if you allow absolutely all of the yeast to settle, then you'll end up with uncarbed beer after the conditioning time.

Maybe there is a limit to how long you would want to leave beer lagering on an entire cake, but I highly doubt that you would ever be able to crash out all yeast. Even if you did, aren't you moving your fermentation vessel out of said cold chamber to bottle? That will stir up yeast. Do you stop racking beer way above the cake? If you have your siphon even near the cake, some will get sucked up by the flow of the siphon. The number of yeast cells required for carbing bottles is so low that it's virtually a non-issue. Bigger concerns relate to yeast health. Did you bulk age for two years? Ferment up to a strain's maximum ABV tolerance? Time to add yeast.

 

[kf_]

It does not have to cost $ 70 here is where I brought mine
http://coppertubingsales.com/immersion-chiller-build-kits

 

[roastquake]

If done right with a cube, there is no risk, period. Just letting it sit in the kettle....eh, minimum risk. But if you use the aussie method there is no way for pathogens to infect your beer, its in a sterile environment that is sealed

If your'e making hopped beer that's over 3% abv, then no pathogen can infect it anyway. The only way you can poison yourself or your friends is by drinking too much

 

[BrotherBock]

one of my favorite bits of advice on here though is when people say, i don't really have the resources to buy such and such, is there anybody out there using a method that doesn't require me to by that thing, only to have someone give the advice of "just go buy that thing..."

Right there with ya. Or when they say they just don't want to buy it. There's always someone who just has to say "buy it." Same people that are compelled to tell you information that was never asked for and isn't relevant.

 

[Brew_G]

Yesterday, I chilled my wort to 63F in exactly one hour by putting it in an ice bath. Three milk gallons of ice on the bottom, topped with 16lbs of ice, then water to bring it to the top of the sink with the kettle in it. Then I put the tube of an aquarium aerator at the bottom to keep the cold water circulating with the hot water at the top so as to maintain a good temp throughout. I then add frozen water bottles to also help maintain cold temp. All ice is made in my chest freezer, which runs between -10F to 0F.

That, along with stirring every ten minutes or so and it chills in decent time with a really good cold break.

Good thing I have a young daughter who tears through milk pretty quickly..."free" containers!

 

[vwmasstransit]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1431796522.386870.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1431796558.774133.jpg

Here is the frankenchiller I created. $30 (I think) of copper and an old 20 gallon tub I had. Chills 5.5 gallons to 65* in 17 minutes. Kinda a pain that I have to get a couple bags of ice each brew day, but it works awesome and is a good conversation starter!

 

[WaltG]

Oh ..and a reminder. If you have an aluminum kettle and using a steel sink for an ice bath don't use salt to make the ice bath colder. The results are electrifying.