First timer with water recipe seeking approval

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PtotheL

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Hey there.

I'm about to brew an Ordinary Bitter and wanted to try making water adjustments.

I read a lot and used TH's spreadsheet to bring down my RA to lighter beer range while lowering a bit my Cl:SO4 ratio which is already at 0.66.

Here's my tap water profile:

Starting Water (ppm):
Ca: 34
Mg: 8
Na: 12
Cl: 23
SO4: 35
CaCO3: 117


As is, it's good water to brew in the 12 to 17 SRM range with a Bitter Cl:SO4 ratio.


First thing first, my Ca and Mg are somewhat low and could use a bump whatever the style brewed, right ?

Since I'm brewing an Ordinary Bitter at 7.5 SRM, I need to lower my RA.

I don't have access to Lactic Acid or to HCL Acid. I could go overboard with the Gypsum, Calcium Chloride, and Epsom Salt to lower it, but in order to not have over the top Cl and SO4 concentration, I decided to use some R.O. water.

Here's what I'm planning to do:

Mash / Sparge Vol (gal): 9 / 7.75
Dilution Rate: 40%

Adjustments (grams) Mash / Boil Kettle:
CaCO3: 0 / 0
CaSO4: 4.5 / 0
CaCl2: 4.5 / 0
MgSO4: 4 / 0
NaHCO3: 0 / 0
NaCl: 0 / 0
HCL Acid: 0 / 0
Lactic Acid: 0 / 0

Mash Water / Total water (ppm):
Ca: 86 / 62
Mg: 16 / 12
Na: 7 / 9
Cl: 78 / 52
SO4: 140 / 92
CaCO3: 70 / 92

RA (mash only): -1 (5 to 10 SRM)
Cl to SO4 (total water): 0.57 (Bitter)


So now, without adding to much hardness to my water, I lowered my RA in the proper range, lowered a bit my Cl:SO4 ratio, upped the Ca and Mg to acceptable levels, and increased the concentration of SO4.


Could you tell me if I grasped the overall process and if this looks good for a Bitter ? If not, could you correct me or make overall suggestions ?

Thanks!
 
Hey there.

I'm about to brew an Ordinary Bitter and wanted to try making water adjustments.

I read a lot and used TH's spreadsheet to bring down my RA to lighter beer range while lowering a bit my Cl:SO4 ratio which is already at 0.66.
There is no "lighter beer range". The notion that one requires a certain RA for a certain color of beer is one of the cruelest hoaxes that has ever been perpetrated on home brewers (mostly by themselves because the guy that came up with it never claimed it was anything more than "handwaving"). The chloride sulfate ratio thing is the second. One should look at chloride to sulfate ratio if doing British beers but at the same time should be aware that British taste panels (in common with those in the rest of the world) prefer low sulfate beers.

Here's my tap water profile:

Starting Water (ppm):
Ca: 34
Mg: 8
Na: 12
Cl: 23
SO4: 35
CaCO3: 117

As is, it's good water to brew in the 12 to 17 SRM range with a Bitter Cl:SO4 ratio.

As is, it's fine for brewing a lot of beers from pale ale to stout with a possible problem with highish residual alkalinity (88 ppm as CaCO3). Adding the traditional teaspoonful (5 grams) of calcium chloride to 5 gallons would cut this back to 40 i.e. under 50 and generally adequate.



First thing first, my Ca and Mg are somewhat low and could use a bump whatever the style brewed, right ?
Calcium is like chicken soup - it can't hurt unless you really over do it or want a very soft quality to your beers (the best beers seem to be brewed with the softest water).

Since I'm brewing an Ordinary Bitter at 7.5 SRM, I need to lower my RA.

As noted above, SRM has very little to do with RA but you will benefit from a lower RA - lower mash pH is a good thing.

I don't have access to Lactic Acid or to HCL Acid. I could go overboard with the Gypsum, Calcium Chloride, and Epsom Salt to lower it, but in order to not have over the top Cl and SO4 concentration, I decided to use some R.O. water.

It would take tons of calcium (19 grams each of gypsum and calcium chloride) to get a predicted mash pH of 5.3 with this water. RO water is a much more sensible approach. A 2:1 dilution with RO and the 5 grams calcium chloride should get you back to close to the pH of a distilled water mash - higher than you would ultimatley like but it should be OK.

Here's what I'm planning to do:

Mash / Sparge Vol (gal): 9 / 7.75
Dilution Rate: 40%

Adjustments (grams) Mash / Boil Kettle:
CaCO3: 0 / 0
CaSO4: 4.5 / 0
CaCl2: 4.5 / 0
MgSO4: 4 / 0
NaHCO3: 0 / 0
NaCl: 0 / 0
HCL Acid: 0 / 0
Lactic Acid: 0 / 0

I'd skip the Epsom salts and gypsum for now and double the calcium chloride. In a subsequent brew I'd put the gypsum back in. This is to educate yourself as the effects of sulfate. If you like it then have at it. If you don't, then continue to leave it out of your other beers.

If you are going to use the EZ water spreadsheet or the Palmer one from which it is derived do not pay any attention to the SRM/RA field. Also ignore the Cl/SO4 ratio field. Do not rely on them for any salt addition involving calcium cabonate as they only calculate half the alkalinity from this salt and thus screw up the RA calculation as well but then if you ignore the SRM/RA thing you should never be adding calcium carbonate to your water anyway. Also sulfate numbers from Ward Labs reports need to be tripled before being put into either of these spreadsheets (this is not a problem with the spreadsheets - it's Ward Labs strange way of reporting sulfate).
 
Thanks for the detailled feedback.

Now I'm confused though.

If TH's and Palmer's spreadsheets RA and CL:SO4 ratio are not to be used, then I am at a complete lost of understanding how I should be adjusting my water to get where it should PH wise and flavor-enhacing wise.

According to your suggestion of going with a 9 grams addition of calcium chloride only and 40% mash water dilution, I get a Chloride:Sulfate ratio of 3.15. Yes, I know, I know... you just wrote to ignore the damn field, but still, isn't that too much for the style I'm brewing ?
 
My apologies to the OP for the slight hijack but...

The notion that one requires a certain RA for a certain color of beer is one of the cruelest hoaxes that has ever been perpetrated

Are you saying Palmer's nomograph is a hoax? He even listed you as a reference in his book. I guess he asked you the wrong questions.

I must say the spreadsheet has been working quite well for me and I'm not crazy about the "try this then try that" method you seem to propose alot. That being said, if the spreadsheet is truly crap then I'll make changes or scrap all together if convinced to do so.

Cheers
 
My apologies to the OP for the slight hijack but...



Are you saying Palmer's nomograph is a hoax? He even listed you as a reference in his book. I guess he asked you the wrong questions.

I must say the spreadsheet has been working quite well for me and I'm not crazy about the "try this then try that" method you seem to propose alot. That being said, if the spreadsheet is truly crap then I'll make changes or scrap all together if convinced to do so.

Cheers


Hijack as you would like TH. I'm more than happy of having you in this thread.

You say your spreadsheet, the calculated RA SRM range, and Chloride to Sulfate ratio, all worked well for you across a wide range of beer styles ?

If so, could you comment on the additions/dilution I planned to make in my original post ?
 
Are you saying Palmer's nomograph is a hoax?

Yes, if the spreadsheets are based on it, in the sense that hundreds of the naive cleave to it as a simple way out of a very complex problem and are terribly misled as soon as the color of the beer gets darkish. I usually use stouts as an example because Guiness extra stout has an SRM of 67. The EZ spreadsheet tells me that if I add 65 grams of chalk to 5 gallons of DI water I'd get water with an RA of 707 and that the "pH will be suitable for a color range of 63 - 78". Do you really believe that? Should anyone believe that? It would be insane to brew any beer with an RA that high. I doubt if you could find any natural water with an RA that high. Yet many do believe what the spreadsheet tells them and willy nilly add tablespoonsfulls of chalk to their brews. I've brewed some pretty bad beers in my day but none that would taste as bad as a stout with 65 grams of chalk thrown into it.

Further to this it takes appreciably less than 65 grams in 5 gal to get an RA of 707 Each 100 mg CaCO3 contributes 100 mg alkalinity "as CaCO3" (which is why we specify alkalinity that way). It also contributes 100 mg of hardness "as CaCO3". So it's effect on RA (alkalinity minus hardness/3.5) is 100*(1-1/3.5) = 100*2.5/3.5 = 71.4 mg as CaCO3. For an RA of 707 mg/L you would actually thus need 707/71.4 = 9.9 units of 100mg or 990 mg/L. That's 18.7 grams in 5 gal - a lot less than 65 grams but still way to much. So you are misleading users in 2 ways. First, by advising that they should have an RA much higher than it needs to be and second by telling them that more chalk is necessary to reach those RAs than is the case.

The reason you calculate such bizarre amounts of chalk is that you assume that it is already converted to bicarbonate. It takes acid to do that. If I supply enough acid to bring the calcium carbonate to pH 8.3 then the results (211) are about what the EZ spreadsheet calculates (203). This is a small difference and depends on the pH used to define alkalinity. If I use 4.7 then I get 203 for the RA. If I increase the acid by 10% beyond that the pH drops to 7.31, the alkalinity to 439 (from 485) and the RA to 157. If I add an equal amount of acid of the same strength to the EZ spreadsheet the alkalinity doesn't change (!) and the new RA is 182 so there are obviously problems there too.

I also offer that when I brew stout it usually comes in between 60 and 80, that I brew it with untreated water that has an RA of about 50, that I do not add chalk and that the pH is a lovely 5.5. This demonstrates that water with an RA of 50 produces a "pH suitable for this color: 60 - 80 SRM. I was just talking to my LHBS op yesterday about this. He said he once made the mistake of adding chalk to his stout and got, surprise, beer that's main characteristic was a pasty, chalky flavor.

Now for light beers things aren't so bad. I'll be doing a Kölsch tomorrow with nothing but enough CaCl2 (in RO water) to get to about 50 ppm Ca++. EZ tells me SRM 2 - 7 and that's fine. But I do my Bock same way. It's much darker at 25.8 SRM and EZ is telling me that I need an RA of 179 and 20 grams of chalk. That's ridiculous too. DI water plus some CaCl2 doesn't need base, it needs acid (and I use it in the form of sauermalz).

He even listed you as a reference in his book. I guess he asked you the wrong questions.
I think he asked the right questions - I seem to remember his running the nomograph by me but clearly I didn't make my opposition to the concept clear enough or he chose to ignore it. I have no idea where he got the data from because if I try to do a color to RA fit I get a slope about 1/7th of his and Pearson's r is less than 50%. This is not a good basis for a "law" or even a rule of thumb.

I must say the spreadsheet has been working quite well for me...
I assume from this that you brew mostly light beers.

... and I'm not crazy about the "try this then try that" method you seem to propose alot.
When discussing mash pH I advocate the use of a pH meter to see to it that the goals which the RA adjustment purport to meet are actually met. In fact most beers will require some acid (and you will find that statement in professional brewing texts). But I recognize that many people cannot afford or do not wish to buy a pH meter. Given that then the only method for hitting mash pH properly seems to be diluting to get RA down and the use of lactic acid in its safest form - acidulated malt (safe in the sense that 1% of the grist by weight is pretty hard to screw up as opposed to mis-measuring or mis-calculating the liquid form of the acid.) Sauermalz does effect flavor and so it gets down to try 2% and see if you like the beer. Then try 3%. Is it better? Like it or not there are no simple solutions. Trial and error will rule the day. That's why a skilled commercial brewer makes such good beer. He brews the same stuff week after week after week and learns which tweaks make his product better and which worse. And that's basically how you learn to make good beer to. It is quite possible that a beer with a 2% sauermalz addition might taste better than one with 3% even though the latter had a lower mash tun pH.

pH has a solid basis in brewing science. We want it low (though exactly how low is subject to debate). With sulfate and chloride it entirely different. These are stylistic ions and thus one must experiment to get the desired levels. It is not by any means universally accepted that there should be a certain ratio of sulfate to chloride in a particular style of beer (except most German lagers where the ratio should be 0) and thus, setting a chloride-sulfate lever, while it would be nice if it did work in all cases, doesn't. I'm not even sure they could be considered dependent in a spider diagram. I, for one, do not like what sulfate does to hops in any context but then I prefer continental lager to British ales in general.

That being said, if the spreadsheet is truly crap then I'll make changes or scrap all together if convinced to do so.

I've talked about where several things are wrong and I'd like to be able to tell you how to fix them simply but it just isn't that simple. All of water chemistry is pretty simple until you recognize that the heart of the matter is the chemistry of carbonic acid. To properly model that you have to consider the pH of the solution and see to it that it balances electrically at all times. I can show you how to do that (and am willing to do so) but it will not be simple. If you go to my website (www.wetnewf.org) you can download the spreadsheet I use for this kind of calculations. A "simple" spreadsheet wouldn't need all the stuff in there about non-ideal solutions but you do need to model pH properly. The best way to "fix" the EZ spreadsheet at this point is to take the color dependence out or at least lower the slope of the RA vs SRM line appreciably. Then, a huge caveat about how this should only be used as a rough indicator as to what color traditional beers might have had based on the waters from which they were brewed.
 
Thanks for the detailled feedback.

Now I'm confused though.

If TH's and Palmer's spreadsheets RA and CL:SO4 ratio are not to be used, then I am at a complete lost of understanding how I should be adjusting my water to get where it should PH wise and flavor-enhacing wise.

I'm suggesting that you not try to adjust pH beyond adding the extra calcium. The way you would do the pH adjustment if you lived in the UK would be with the use of CRS - an acid blend- but it isn't available in the US. If you try to go all the way to "proper" pH with salts you will have a pretty salty beer. So let the extra calcium help you out with pH but let it go where it wants to go. Getting pH really under control is advanced water chemistry. For now you should keep it simple.

According to your suggestion of going with a 9 grams addition of calcium chloride only and 40% mash water dilution, I get a Chloride:Sulfate ratio of 3.15. Yes, I know, I know... you just wrote to ignore the damn field, but still, isn't that too much for the style I'm brewing ?

Keep in mind that the most authentic beer is not necessarily the best tasting beer. Yes, this may be not enough sulfate for the "style" but if that is the case you should taste that in the beer. I just always recommend keeping the sulfate low on the first shot because lots of people don't really like what it does. If you are uncomfortable with that then get half your calcium from chloride and half from sulfate, as you proposed, but then be sure to brew the beer again with less sulfate to see if you like it better that way. As you are not contemplating carbonate or bicarbonate additions the EZ spreadsheet is fine and you can fiddle with gypsum and CaCl2 until you get things just to your satisfaction. It's even OK to add the epsom salts though Mg is usually not considered flavor positive.
 
Hello I am a chemist and a brewer for bitters you want the following guidelines:

CA++ 60-120
MG++ 10-12
NA+ 15-40
CO3 0
SO4 180-300
CL- 25-50

I am assuming since your SO4 is <50 you have soft water correct?
 
He says he has 34 mg/L Ca and 8 mg/L Mg for a total hardness of 2.36 mVal or 118 ppm as CaCO3. This would be regarded as "moderately hard". The sulfate accounts for part of the "permanent" hardness, i.e. the part that isn't associated with bicarbonate, with chloride accounting for most of the rest. As the profile he gave doesn't balance (0.8 more mVal anions than cations) one can't really make temporary and permanent assignments here - just the total.
 
Anion Receptor Chemistry is such a difficult topic let alone when it is incorporated in water chemistry. I wasn't trying to make a temporary let alone a permanent assessment. Just trying to grab an idea of what kind of water and product he is working with. Remember No water profile balances perfectly and other elements come into play when adjusting your water for brewing. Understand that other ions are added to the process stream from the grist and from the hops. In addition solid salts may be added directly to the mash or to the wort ex:Calcium ions Ca2+ which serve several important functions in brewing. They stabilize the enzyme amylase during mashing and, by interacting with phosphate, phytate, peptides and proteins in the mash and during the copper boil, the pH values of the mash and the wort are usefully reduced.

If bicarbonate ions are also present (the water has temporary hardness) these can more than offset the effect of calcium and cause a rise in pH. The concentration of calcium ions should not greatly exceed 100 mg/l in the mashing liquor as no great advantage is gained from higher doses and there is the risk that too much
phosphate may be removed from the wort, and the yeast may then have an inadequate
supply.

I was always taught that General Hardness (GH) is primarily the measure of calcium (Ca++) and magnesium (Mg++) ions in the water. Other ions can contribute to GH but their effects are usually insignificant and the other ions are difficult to measure. GH will not directly affect pH although "hard" water is generally alkaline due to some interaction of GH and Carbonated Hardness. Hardness is usually measured in ppm of CaCO3. A German dH is 17.8 ppm CaCO3. A molar concentration of 1 milliequivalent per liter (mEq/l) = 2.8 dH = 50 ppm thus:

0 - 4 dH, 0 - 70 ppm = very soft
4 - 8 dH, 70 - 140 ppm = soft
8 - 12 dH, 140 - 210 ppm = medium hard
12 - 18 dH, 210 - 320 ppm = fairly hard

What i was trying to get to was that Soft' water contains low concentrations of dissolved salts, particularly salts of calcium and (with less emphasis) salts of magnesium. `Hard' water contains high concentrations of salts, usually mainly calcium bicarbonate or calcium sulphate. Temporary hardness is caused chiefly by calcium bicarbonate and is so-called because if the water is boiled the bicarbonate is converted to the carbonate, which precipitates leaving the clarified water `softened'. In contrast `permanent hardness' is mainly caused by calcium sulphate, and this remains in solution when the water is boiled. The distinction is important if the liquor is to be used for mashing or, even more, for sparging.
 
Apparently you were educated in Europe and I think some of your confusion may stem from the fact that we use different units here. The Germans refer to kH as "carbonate hardness" when it is, in fact, equivalent to what we call alkalinity over here. Alkalinity, or kH if you prefer, is measured by a simple titration to an endpoint which varies from application to application. What the Europeans call GH (general hardness) is called Total Hardness. By definition (Standard Methods) the total hardness is the sum of the equivalences of magnesium and calcium per liter multiplied by 50. No iron, no strontium, no copper - just calcium and magnesium. While it is true that these will interfere with the usual (EDTA) tests for hardness they are not usually present in large enough quantity to cause much of an error. If you want to be really precise you have to use AAS, ICP or some technique like that but it's hardly justified for homebrewing.

So when I say that the calcium and magnesium ions are all that need to be considered in specifying hardness, that's what I'm talking about. The names given to hardness ranges are, of course, somewhat arbitrary. In the US <50 is considered soft, 50 to 100 moderately hard, 100 to 150 Hard and >150 very hard (Water Treatment Principals and Design, 2d Ed.) so our correspondent, at 118 actually has "hard" water.

As for the calcium level comments: Certainly many beers are brewed with calcium levels well in excess of 100 mg/L (but not by me). I wouldn't worry too much about the phosphate as malt contains about 2% by wt. (as the pentoxide). Thus if one doughs in at 1 lb/gal that's about 110 g/L which contains about 2.2 grams phosphorous as P2O5 or about 7 mmol/L for 14 mmol of phosphorous. Assuming that it is appatite that precipitates (6 mol of phosphorous per 10 mol calcium) those 14 mmol/L phosphorous would carry away 10*14/6 = 23.3 mmol/L calcium = 933 mg/L so I don't think 200 or 300 is going to deplete the malt's phosphate.
 
Ok, I got way more than I bargained for. I think I'll crawl back to the general forums until I read dedicated books on the subject matter.

One word concerning TH's spreadsheet. If I was brewing a stout, I would never adjust the RA to the range it shows.

If I understand correctly, the "suited for SRM" is an estimate that takes into account that darker beers usually have a grain bill containing more kilned and roasted malts which does bring the PH down themselves. If that's the case, this is a huge misconception since not all dark beers incorporate a hefty dose of kilned malts. Some only use a minimal amount of roasted barley to get their color in the black range. (Please, correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not writing this with 100% certitude).

Like you said, if brewing a darker beer, I would use my head and not start dropping in huge ammount of chalk to raise the RA. With my tap water profile I posted, I would maybe raise it just a notch, but not by what's proposed by the spreadsheet.

If TH could make the RA-Proposed SRM calculation better, it would need to be a non linear result.

For my part, as a beginner, I am still more than happy with the spreadsheet... as long as every body is aware of the darker SRMs not needing the proposed RA. I guess TH could simply add this as a note near the RA/SRM result field, so that beginners taking it for hard cash could read it and then learn about it.
 
This is an excellent topic and learned a lot about things i didn't even know about. I was educated in Europe 5 summers ago but am a US citizen. What's weird is that Water Treatment (not only in measurements but in methods) vary heavily (although many things are similar). I was taught this equation : (Ca (ppm)/20 + Mg (ppm)/12.1) x 50 = Total Hardness.
 
Ok, I got way more than I bargained for. I think I'll crawl back to the general forums until I read dedicated books on the subject matter.

Handling water treatment correctly requires attention to a lot of details. I've been trying for 20 years to figure out a way to simplify it and about the best I could come up with was "Add a tsp of CaCl2 to 5 gal RO water." That will get you a decent beer almost every time but not the best beer. Lately I've amended that a bit to "Add a tsp of CaCl2 to 5 gal RO water and 3% sauermalz to the grist unless the beer has a lot of roast grain, add gypsum to taste and check the mash pH." That should get you a better beer but not the nuanced beer you may be looking for.

One word concerning TH's spreadsheet. If I was brewing a stout, I would never adjust the RA to the range it shows.

I'm glad at least one guy got the message.

If I understand correctly, the "suited for SRM" is an estimate that takes into account that darker beers usually have a grain bill containing more kilned and roasted malts which does bring the PH down themselves. If that's the case, this is a huge misconception since not all dark beers incorporate a hefty dose of kilned malts. Some only use a minimal amount of roasted barley to get their color in the black range. (Please, correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not writing this with 100% certitude).

That's spot on!



If TH could make the RA-Proposed SRM calculation better, it would need to be a non linear result.

You would still have the problem of generalizing more than you should.


For my part, as a beginner, I am still more than happy with the spreadsheet... as long as every body is aware of the darker SRMs not needing the proposed RA. I guess TH could simply add this as a note near the RA/SRM result field, so that beginners taking it for hard cash could read it and then learn about it.

That's exactly what I think should be done. A BIG warning that color and RA are only roughly correlated and that one should not rely on color to set mash pH but use a pH meter instead.

Of course he also needs to fix the alkalinity and residual alkalinity calculations but if you aren't taken in by the high RA demands then you shouldn't be adding chalk and thus those errors wouldn't effect you.

Also the acid addition problem needs attention.
 
This is an excellent topic and learned a lot about things i didn't even know about. I was educated in Europe 5 summers ago but am a US citizen. What's weird is that Water Treatment (not only in measurements but in methods) vary heavily (although many things are similar). I was taught this equation : (Ca (ppm)/20 + Mg (ppm)/12.1) x 50 = Total Hardness.

Yes, based on the equivalent weight of calcium being 20 and that of magnesium being 12.15 this definition is consistent with what is in Standard Methods (with the ppm being "as the ion" not "as CaCO3").
 
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