First Protein Rest

[RandalG]

Hey Guys,
So I'm doing a Maibock tomorrow and I was going to try and do my first protein rest. 16 lbs. of Pilsner malt. I have beer smith which told to use 20 qts. of water @ 129.3 degrees to hit 122 degrees for the rest and then heat to 154. The thing is my mash tun is an igloo cooler so I can't heat it.
Any advice on where to go to find out what strike temp to use for both steps and how much water in each step.
Thanks,
Randal

 

[Black Island Brewer]

In Beersmith, switch your mash profile from single infusion/temperature to double infusion. It will give you the water and temp amounts for both steps.

 

[RandalG]

Thanks man. That was easy enough.

 

[IslandLizard]

I do step mashes in the kettle. Direct fired with induction, tri-ply bottom. Very easy and great results.

Stir well during heating periods to prevent local overheating and scorching. At the end, do a solid mashout at 170F for 10' to fix your sugar profile. Then dump the whole lot in the cooler for lautering and sparging.

Alternatively, if you want to literally infuse, you need quite a lot of boiling water to bring your mash from 122 to 154, but it is doable if you start thickish, like 1 qt/lb. You also need to hit it pretty much on the nose, so calculate your water addition precisely. Add a few extra degrees (2-6F) that you'll lose while stirring for 3-5 minutes with the lid off.

 

[markstache]

The Brewer's friend step mash calculator is my go to.

Fwiw, I wouldn't bother with a protein test with all pilsner. A hochkurz mash had the same level of complexity and (in my opinion) would be of more practical benefit.

 

[IslandLizard]

The Brewer's friend step mash calculator is my go to.

Fwiw, I wouldn't bother with a protein test with all pilsner. A hochkurz mash had the same level of complexity and (in my opinion) would be of more practical benefit.

Yeah, a protein rest with today's well modified Pilsner malts is not really needed, and it could kill the head if done too long. Now decoction could be beneficial for flavor production, but takes a lot of work and time. Instead, a few ounces of Melanoidin can get you close.

 

[FranklinNewhart]

With mash rests has anybody ever thought to cool the wort down to 120 after the 170 F rest and then add a bit more malt and do a 130 to 135 F rest so the new malt can break down all the 1-6 bonds and give more fermentable sugar. It's extra work but it would ferment more of the sugar and give you a dryer beer. Then work your way up to 170 again to get the new malt addition converted.

 

[markstache]

With mash rests has anybody ever thought to cool the wort down to 120 after the 170 F rest and then add a bit more malt and do a 130 to 135 F rest so the new malt can break down all the 1-6 bonds and give more fermentable sugar. It's extra work but it would ferment more of the sugar and give you a dryer beer. Then work your way up to 170 again to get the new malt addition converted.

It sounds like a lot of effort, but should work. As you note, the key is adding more malt so that you get the the enzymes you need. Those in the first batch of malt will be denatured by the 170 rest.

 

[IslandLizard]

With mash rests has anybody ever thought to cool the wort down to 120 after the 170 F rest and then add a bit more malt and do a 130 to 135 F rest so the new malt can break down all the 1-6 bonds and give more fermentable sugar. It's extra work but it would ferment more of the sugar and give you a dryer beer. Then work your way up to 170 again to get the new malt addition converted.

You're also adding a whole load of starch, wouldn't that defy the purpose?

When the new grist gets mixed in, the enzymes may be too widely dispersed to convert. The average DP of a grist should be above 30 for full conversion, and at that low rate, count on mashing for 90 minutes, and stir a few times during. Now you could add some amylase, then denature it when you deem the mash is done. Or let it run it's course.

I think low and long mashing is still the answer, then slowly raise to hit the sweet spots for that grist.

 

[FranklinNewhart]

Yes it adds more starch. I have done mashes this way and I usually add one third the amount of Malt to the second boil as the original boil. That way I end up with a 2/3 conversion of the 1-6 bonds. And that much malt in the second boil gives enough for efficient conversion of everything else by the end of the second boil. It also gives a higher ABV. I'm retired so I have lots of time on my hands. My wife still works and she does 12 hour shifts at a care home so I can get a boil like that done before she get's home.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yes it adds more starch. I have done mashes this way and I usually add one third the amount of Malt to the second boil as the original boil. That way I end up with a 2/3 conversion of the 1-6 bonds. And that much malt in the second boil gives enough for efficient conversion of everything else by the end of the second boil. It also gives a higher ABV. I'm retired so I have lots of time on my hands. My wife still works and she does 12 hour shifts at a care home so I can get a boil like that done before she get's home.

Do you notice higher fermentability/attenuation with that method? How much more?