First East Coast IPA recipe - thoughts?

[rwing7486]

Hey all,

I am planning on brewing my first East coast IPA. I am going back and forth on the base malt. Still undecided if I want to use 100%MO or 100% pale malt or if i do a 50/50 split. Any feedback on my recipe is appreciated. Thanks.

Batch Info
Batch Volume: 6.00 gallons (5.25 gallons into primary)
Boil Time: 90 minutes
Estimated OG: 1.069
Estimated FG: 1.016
Estimated color: 6.0 SRM
Est IBU: 40 + 30 minute hop stand (dont know how to calculate)
Brew house Eff: 78%
Boil Time: 90 minutes

Grain Bill
Briess Pale Ale Malt (3.5L) - 5.0 lbs (36%)
Marris Otter (3.5L) - 5.0 lbs (36%)
White Wheat (2L) - 2.0 lbs (14.3%)
Flaked Barley (1.5L) - 0.75lbs (5.4%)
Flaked Oats (2.5L) - 0.75lbs (5.4%)
Dextrose - 0.5lbs (3.6%)

Mash
Single infusion @ 154F for 60 minutes

Yeast
WLP007 dry english ale yeast

Boil
1oz Magnum - 60minutes
1oz Mosaic - flame out
1oz Galaxy - flame out
1oz Denali (experimental hops 6277) - flame out

Hop stand
Cool wort down to 175 - add the following hops and let stand for 30 minutes
1oz Mosaic
1oz Galaxy
1oz Denali (experimental hops 6277)

Dry Hop
ALL additions will be added to the primary - total dry hop duration will be 7 days
3days post pitching yeast - 1oz Mosaic, 1oz Denali, 0.5oz Galaxy
5days post pitching yeast - 1oz Mosaic, 1oz Denali, 0.5oz Galaxy

Cold Crash for 1 day. Keg to 2.2vols.

Water profile
Using 100% RO water and adding back minerals
Estimated room temp mash Ph: 5.5
Ca: 67.7 ppm
Mg: 0.0 ppm
Na: 8.0 ppm
SO4: 64.4 ppm
Cl: 75.4 ppm
Bicarbonate: 16.0 ppm

 

[Redlantern]

No "corrections" from me as this style is completely new to me and I am only just starting down that road. It looks really good to me. Just putting two things out there for discussion.

Thought only - I started playing with 50/50 Golden Promise and 2-row (or pearl). Works great for softer, juicy ECIPA style as far as I am concerned.

WLP007? I like in IPA but have you considered a fruitier strain for this? WY1968 or similar? Attenuation is a bit lower but the flavor is so nice...

 

[rwing7486]

No "corrections" from me as this style is completely new to me and I am only just starting down that road. It looks really good to me. Just putting two things out there for discussion.

Thought only - I started playing with 50/50 Golden Promise and 2-row (or pearl). Works great for softer, juicy ECIPA style as far as I am concerned.

WLP007? I like in IPA but have you considered a fruitier strain for this? WY1968 or similar? Attenuation is a bit lower but the flavor is so nice...

That's a good point i never considered golden promise. That might be a better combo with the pale ale malt. I chose wlp007 as that is my normal house yeast for anything "ale" for the most part. I figured it would be a good yeast to balance out the higher mash temp. this is my first run so I will most likely ferment with the 007 yeast and then try another yeast the 2nd time.

 

[grassfeeder]

I've used 007 in all my NE IPA's with great results. I start around 65 degrees and ramp up to 72 for a day before I keg.

I'd look to get your PH around 5.2-3 however and mash around 150-152.

I'd take your flame out hops and just move them to the whirlpool.

 

[rwing7486]

I've used 007 in all my NE IPA's with great results. I start around 65 degrees and ramp up to 72 for a day before I keg.

I'd look to get your PH around 5.2-3 however and mash around 150-152.

I'd take your flame out hops and just move them to the whirlpool.

Would you whirpool at the hop stand temp (my guess is it will be at 165 post 30 minutes) or would you add them after I turn on my immersion chiller on again and begin cooling the wort back down to my pitch temp?

As far as the yeast goes I usually cool my wort down to 62ish and pitch my yeast and let it free rise to 70-72 degrees in my basement. I have had great results with this method.

 

[Oldskewl]

Looks pretty good to me. Why are you doing a 90 minute boil? Definitely give Wyeast 1318 or Conan a try after your WLP007 attempt.

 

[rwing7486]

Looks pretty good to me. Why are you doing a 90 minute boil? Definitely give Wyeast 1318 or Conan a try after your WLP007 attempt.

Two reasons: I get increased efficiency from batch sparging with more water and a longer boil helps get rid of DMS

 

[Oldskewl]

You shouldn't be getting DMS unless you are using Pilsner malts or boiling with the lid on. But I guess it doesn't hurt anything to boil longer.

Lots of good info in this thread for the style. I plan to try his recipe after my Bells TH attempt.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=568046

 

[OdeCloner]

I've brewed this style a lot, and have shared notes here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=582962

Change up a few things like...
SO4/CL: 150/150ppm
Mash pH: 5.4
1318 is a must. I've done it both ways, and the 007 is good, but 1318 is WAY better.
Dry Hop to 7+ oz. You don't need much in the boil really, so move some of those hops to the dry hop. 3-5oz in the boil, 7+ in dry.

 

[grassfeeder]

Would you whirpool at the hop stand temp (my guess is it will be at 165 post 30 minutes) or would you add them after I turn on my immersion chiller on again and begin cooling the wort back down to my pitch temp?

As far as the yeast goes I usually cool my wort down to 62ish and pitch my yeast and let it free rise to 70-72 degrees in my basement. I have had great results with this method.

I also add my whirlpool hops at 170 degrees for 30 minutes.

 

[elburrogrande]

I would aim for a lower SRM as well as FG (1.1- 1.012). Mashing lower at 150-152 should get you there. Dry hopping a little longer might be good too. I would leave the first dry hop charge in for 5 days remove it then add the second dry hop for another 3 days. I haven't experimented with keg hopping but that's another thing to consider. What additions are you adding to your water? I think your water profile needs adjusting a bit.

 

[rwing7486]

I've brewed this style a lot, and have shared notes here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=582962

Change up a few things like...
SO4/CL: 150/150ppm
Mash pH: 5.4
1318 is a must. I've done it both ways, and the 007 is good, but 1318 is WAY better.
Dry Hop to 7+ oz. You don't need much in the boil really, so move some of those hops to the dry hop. 3-5oz in the boil, 7+ in dry.

7oz seems excessive for dry hoping. I have noticed in beers that were over hopped to have a slight vegetate aroma . I will probably stick with my wlp007 for my first run as I just washed the yeast from an american pale ale.

 

[grassfeeder]

honestly, I'ver never dry hopped below 6oz for any of these style beers. trust me, 7oz isn't over the top.

 

[blanchmd]

I've been experimenting with the style since January, and watching the methods and results of probably 50 home brewers doing the same along the way. I have made probably 10 batches so far. Not saying any of this is "right," but from my experience, I think most folks well versed in the style would say 7 oz in the dry hop is not remotely excessive, and you shouldn't get veggie flavors as long as you don't let it go 2 weeks. Most folks dry hop twice, once just as fermentation starts to slow (yes dry hop during active fermentation) and once again right before kegging or keg hop it. My last batch I split dry hops into 3 -- during fermentation, post ferment and keg (carbing right now, samples are awesome!). Most folks have a total of up to an oz of hops in the boil, not much more, and they whirlpool for at least a half hour, some for longer than an hour. I brewed one last night and I added 3 oz at flameout, 3 oz at 170 and another 2 oz at 140, for a total of 1 1/2 hour whirlpool. Conan or 1318 are the yeasts of choice, probably with 1318 being most folks' favorite. 007 is good and supposedly is the yeast used by Trillium (every bit as good as TH). Typical grain bill is either 2 row base malt or 50/50 2 row/Golden Promise, sometimes Marris Otter, sometimes 10-15% Vienna or Carafoam, always a ton of flaked oats and/or wheat. On process, extremely important to avoid oxidation -- the hops go flat pretty quick if you don't, and especially with Conan yeast you start to get an almost Belgian flavor.

All that said, all I can say is that every batch I have brewed has been better than the last, and all of them have been much enjoyed by all. It really is a fun style but I hope I grow tired of it soon because with the ridiculous amount of hops it is EXPENSIVE!!

Good luck!

 

[rwing7486]

I've been experimenting with the style since January, and watching the methods and results of probably 50 home brewers doing the same along the way. I have made probably 10 batches so far. Not saying any of this is "right," but from my experience, I think most folks well versed in the style would say 7 oz in the dry hop is not remotely excessive, and you shouldn't get veggie flavors as long as you don't let it go 2 weeks. Most folks dry hop twice, once just as fermentation starts to slow (yes dry hop during active fermentation) and once again right before kegging or keg hop it. My last batch I split dry hops into 3 -- during fermentation, post ferment and keg (carbing right now, samples are awesome!). Most folks have a total of up to an oz of hops in the boil, not much more, and they whirlpool for at least a half hour, some for longer than an hour. I brewed one last night and I added 3 oz at flameout, 3 oz at 170 and another 2 oz at 140, for a total of 1 1/2 hour whirlpool. Conan or 1318 are the yeasts of choice, probably with 1318 being most folks' favorite. 007 is good and supposedly is the yeast used by Trillium (every bit as good as TH). Typical grain bill is either 2 row base malt or 50/50 2 row/Golden Promise, sometimes Marris Otter, sometimes 10-15% Vienna or Carafoam, always a ton of flaked oats and/or wheat. On process, extremely important to avoid oxidation -- the hops go flat pretty quick if you don't, and especially with Conan yeast you start to get an almost Belgian flavor.

All that said, all I can say is that every batch I have brewed has been better than the last, and all of them have been much enjoyed by all. It really is a fun style but I hope I grow tired of it soon because with the ridiculous amount of hops it is EXPENSIVE!!

Good luck!

I have read about the effects of trying to avoid oxidation during dry hoping. What method do you usually use to add your hops to your primary fermenter? My pirmary is a 6.5 glass carboy so when adding my hop pellets it is hard to avoid "splashing" (introducing air into the beer). How do you avoid / minimize the splashing? Obviously this would be easier to minimize using a plastic bucket, but I prefer my glass carboy as I can control fermentation temperature much easier. I am assuming you are using pellets and if so each pellet has air trapped inside it from the hop farm process when compacting the hops ( Oxygen in the pellets is the reason why during boil you have such an expansion of the wort when pitching). So to me the more hops you add in the dry hop the more air you introduce into the beer. I mean I thought about placing my dry hops in a plastic cup purged with CO2 right before adding to the fermenter but I am not sure if that really helps.

 

[Bramstoker17]

I have read about the effects of trying to avoid oxidation during dry hoping. What method do you usually use to add your hops to your primary fermenter? My pirmary is a 6.5 glass carboy so when adding my hop pellets it is hard to avoid "splashing" (introducing air into the beer). How do you avoid / minimize the splashing? Obviously this would be easier to minimize using a plastic bucket, but I prefer my glass carboy as I can control fermentation temperature much easier. I am assuming you are using pellets and if so each pellet has air trapped inside it from the hop farm process when compacting the hops ( Oxygen in the pellets is the reason why during boil you have such an expansion of the wort when pitching). So to me the more hops you add in the dry hop the more air you introduce into the beer. I mean I thought about placing my dry hops in a plastic cup purged with CO2 right before adding to the fermenter but I am not sure if that really helps.

Adding the first round of dry hops during active fermentation should hopefully minimize the risk of introducing oxygen since the yeast is still actively fermenting.

 

[rwing7486]

Adding the first round of dry hops during active fermentation should hopefully minimize the risk of introducing oxygen since the yeast is still actively fermenting.

Ya I figured as much but i planned to add 2 different hop charges - 2oz day 3 of fermentation and another 2 oz day 5 of fermentation. At day 5 the yeast wont be very active so this hop addition is the one I am most worried about

 

[Bramstoker17]

Ya I figured as much but i planned to add 2 different hop charges - 2oz day 3 of fermentation and another 2 oz day 5 of fermentation. At day 5 the yeast wont be very active so this hop addition is the one I am most worried about

I usually do 2 charges as well. I save my second one for about day 10 when I keg the beer, so I can at least purge everything with Co2.

If you go with the day 5, there's still likely some yeast activity, so you should be ok. I've added my first dry hop charge at day 5 right into the carboy and noticed no oxidation.

 

[elburrogrande]

How about adding dextrose a couple days before the second dry hop?

 

[blanchmd]

I don't worry too much about oxidation by adding hop pellets. Co2 is heavier than o2, so in theory dropping the pellets in might stir up the co2 blanket a little but the gas getting splashed is still co2, so who cares? (I do ferment in a bucket, but I don't see much difference in carboy). My second dry hop is usually in the keg, I just soak a pantyhose in starsan, tie my hops up drop in the bottom of the keg then purge purge purge, then rack the beer in. If you take your time, co2 is settled on the bottom, even if you splash a little it's no reason to call 911. Folks go to extreme lengths to prevent oxidation, in my experience, I'm noticing no oxidation in the beer with these processes (before doing this I always got oxidized beer that would start to turn on me 1-2 weeks in the keg). If I had to work much harder at it, it wouldn't be fun!!